Not the usual suspects: Vermentino and Verdejo

Not the usual suspects: Vermentino and Verdejo

When most of us think of white wine, the Vermentino and Verdejo grapes, don't immediately spring to mind. But they are, now, favourites of mine and the two below are excellent examples. Vermentino is from Italy, one of its most distinctive grapes and thrives in coastal areas such as Sardinia's rocky Gallura region. By the way, there is a very rare red Vermentino.

Verdejo is best known through the delicious wines that come from Rueda in Spain though our example below is from neighbouring Castilla (a region where Wine-Searcher.com suggests it is indigenous). "Wherever the variety's origins, Rueda is its undisputed home now; the variety is extremely successful there, and is grown almost nowhere else in Europe."

Cantina Mesa, `Giunco` Vermentino di Sardegna (DOC) 2018, 13.5%, €24.99.

Baggot Street Wines

Cinnamon Cottage

Wineoline.ie

Light gold is the colour, light and bright. Quite intense aromas of exotic fruit, scents of blossom too. A terrific and immediately noticeable balance of fruit and acidity on the palate, crisp and delicious right through to a lip-smacking finish. Very Highly Recommended.

This is 100% Vermentino. A beautifully balanced white with good body, and scents of tropical fruit backed by floral impressions. Delicious with fish and creamy cheeses. Enjoy in summer 8-10 degrees, winter 12 degrees.

Extended heavy rains in Sardinia in 2018 but,  fortunately, despite this and other challenges, the technical staff at Cantina Mesa were able to grow healthy fruit. After clarification and stabilisation, the wine matured for four months in stainless steel tanks on its lees and for a minimum of one month in bottle before release.

.

Dominio de Punctum "Finca Fabiana" Verdejo 2018 Castilla (VDT), 12%, €12.20
Mary Pawle Wines

Very light straw colour. Pleasant Fruity aromas, light intensity. On the palate it’s a bit more tingly than its Rueda counterpart, fresh and easy-drinking with green fruit (mainly pear/apple) flavours, floral notes too and a lively acidity. Pretty good finish too. Very pleasing as an aperitif and should be fine too with salads and fish.  A simple dry quaffer that should be well received around the table. Very Highly Recommended.

Domino de Punctum wines are organic, biodynamic and vegan-friendly, “following our commitment to the environment and wine lovers around the world.” “We take part of a farming philosophy that is aiming towards the future: we understand how to manage nature to deliver top quality grapes and wines while taking care of the environment, by improving it instead of spoiling it. We aim to achieve this through organic and biodynamic agriculture, making wine that stands out not only for the beauty of its aroma or delicacy on the palate, but for being natural and authentic and free of any chemicals.”

Six Christmas & New Year Wine Doubles!

Six Christmas & New Year Wine Doubles
In no particular order! 

(Click on the individual wines to see short reviews and Irish stockists.)

I      Gallina de Piel, `Ikigall` Penedès (DO) 2018, 11.5%, €20.99 Liberty Wine
Blackrock Cellar; Baggot Street Wines; McHugh’s Off Licence - Kilbarrack Rd; Bradley's, North Main St., Cork
www.winesonline.ie
           Gallina de Piel Mimetic Calatayud (DO) 2018, 14.5%, €20.99 Liberty Wine
Baggot Street Wines; Blackrock Cellar; McHugh’s Off Licence - Kilbarrack Rd; McHugh’s Off Licence - Malahide Road; Drink Store Ltd; Bradley's, North Main St., Cork; www.winesonline.ie


II    Angiolino Maule, La Biancara, Masieri Bianco Veneto (IGT) 2017, 11.5%,               €18.85;  64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny
       Angiolino Maule, La Biancara, Masieri Rosso Veneto (IGT) 2018,  14.0%,               €22.25; as above


III   Diwald Grüner Veltliner “Goldberg” Wagram (Austria) 2015, 13%, €20.75             Mary Pawle
          Domaine de la Bonne Tonne Morgon (AOC) “Cote du Py” 2015,                14%, €28.75 Mary Pawle

IV   De Alberto Organic Verdejo Rueda (DO) 13.5%, O’Brien’s
           De Martino “Gallardia” Cinsault Itata (DO) 2017 , O'Brien's


V    Lo Abarca Riesling 2017 €12.00 Marks & Spencer
       Chateau Vincens “Prestige” Cahors (AOC) 2013, 13%, €23.50 Vanilla                        Grape Kenmare

VI    Castellani Vermentino Toscana (IGT) 2017 €10.00 SuperValu
           Campo Viejo Garnacha Rioja (AOC) 2017 €10.50 SuperValu

Click on the individual wines to see reviews and Irish stockists.

A Very Good Year. A Short List To Savour. Top Red and White Named. Plus A Top Vineyard

A Very Good Year. Short List To Savour

Top Red and White Named. Plus A Top Vineyard

The folks behind Bonne Tonne in Beaujolais, my "discovery" of the year via Mary Pawle!

It's been quite a year on the wine front. Pick one red and one white was the order, a hard one, even if self-imposed. Here we go. The top red is the Binner Pinot Noir from Alsace while the nod for the white goes to the Cullen Amber from Australia's Margaret River. Both are picked from the short lists below. The long list for reds totalled 42, while for whites it came to a more manageable 16. You may see them here. The short lists below may help you make up your mind when shopping for wine in the lead up to Christmas and indeed well into 2020. Perhaps the vineyard discovery of the year came when Mary Pawle imported the stunning wines of Domaine de la Bonne Tonne in Beaujolais.

Red

Binner Cuvée Béatrice Pinot Noir Alsace (AOP) 2016
Château Peybonhomme-Les-Tours “Energies” Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux (AOP) 2016
Nicolas Reau “Pompois” Anjou (AOC) 2015
Domaine de la Bonne Tonne Morgon (AOC) “Grands-Cras” 2017
Domaine de la Bonne Tonne Morgon (AOC) “Les Charmes” 2017
Domaine de la Bonne Tonne Morgon (AOC) “Cote du Py” 2015
Chateau Mayne-Vieil Fronsac (AOC) 2015
Chateau de Bastet Terram,  Côtes du Rhone (AOC) 2014
Alfredo Maestro “El Marciano”, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon, 2017
Gallina de Piel Mimetic Calatayud (DO) 2018
Tandem “Inmune” Valle de Yerri, Navarra, 2017

Angiolino Maule, La Biancara, Masieri Rosso Veneto (IGT) 2018
Symington Altano Vinho Tinto Douro (DOC) 2018
Willunga 100 Grenache McLaren Vale 2016
Astrolabe Province Pinot Noir Marlborough (NZ) 2015,
Bodegas Caro Amancaya Reserva Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon (Argentina) 2017
Casa de Uco El Salvaje Malbec Los Chacayes (IG) 2016
De Martino “Gallardia” Cinsault Itata (DO) 2017 

*************

White

Cullen Wilyabrup Margaret River “Amber” 2017
Château du Coing de Saint Fiacre L’Ancestrale Cru Communal Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2010,
De Alberto Organic Verdejo Rueda (DO) 
Gallina de Piel, `Ikigall` Penedès (DO) 2018

Bodegas Pinuaga Bianco, Vino de la Tierra Castilla 2018

Angiolino Maule, La Biancara, Masieri Bianco Veneto (IGT) 2017
Beck Chardonnay 2016, Burgenland Austria
Lo Abarca Riesling 2017
Chateau Ste Michelle Columbia Valley (Washington, USA) Dry Riesling 2016,





Rosé
Bodegas Tandem Rós Rosado Navarra (DO) 2018


Fortified/Sweet
Mount Horrocks Cordon Cut Riesling Clare Valley 2018

The Rhone. River of Wine.

The Rhone. River of Wine.

Do you find French wine labels confusing?

The Rhone is one of a few major French rivers, others are the Loire and Dordogne, inextricably linked with wine. The heart of the area is between Vienne to the north, Avignon to the south.  Wines labelled Côtes du Rhône can come from anywhere in the region, from north, south, east and west. Those labelled Côtes du Rhône Villages are in theory better than plain Côtes du Rhône and those with the label entitled to add the village name, eg  Côtes du Rhône Villages Sablet should have an edge over the others, in theory.

Wines bearing the label Vacqueyras, just Vacqueyras, can come only from the village of that name.  It is regarded as a cru wine. Some other southern Rhone cru villages are Gigondas, most recently Cairanne and,  most famously, Chateauneuf du Pape. It can all get a little complicated for the outsider. 

While the various designations are much sought after, quite often it comes back to the winemaker. A good winemaker can make a Côtes du Rhône every bit as good as a cru whereas a poor winemaker will more than likely have a poor result even in a cru village. The two below are from opposite ends of the appellation "scale" yet, for me, it is very difficult to pick a clear "winner". 

Chateau de Bastet “Terram” Côtes du Rhône (AOP) 2017, 14%, €14.75 Mary Pawle Wine

Colour is ruby (mid to dark), the liquid attractively bright in the glass. Jammy red fruits (raspberries, strawberries) on the nose and then lively red fruit flavours on the palate, a nice light spice too, delicate tannins, fresh acidity but well balanced for sure. Very accessible and clean (no herbicides, no pesticides here). It is is both organic and biodynamic and the blend is 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah. Very Highly Recommended.

Grenache qualities enhance fruitiness, warmth and body while Syrah can bring a hint of spice, as well as depth in colour and strength to the wine enabling it to age well.

Terram, Latin for land, is one of the four elements, so, not surprisingly, they also produce wines called Aeris, Aqua and Ignis (air, water, fire). Pairings recommended include appetisers, cold cuts, barbecued meat or small goat's cheeses and even more exotic dishes. This could be one of the LDR (light dry reds, now very popular). Recommended serving temperature is 14 degrees, so a slight chilling may be required.

Jérome Quiot Vacqueyras (AOC) 2015, 14.5%, €22.15 (Karwig, now closed)

Rhone wines by the Quiot family were a mainstay in Karwig for many years. This fruit was hand-picked from a single property located at the foot of the famous hills, the Dentelles de Montmirail. You can expect it to match with veal, game birds and cheeses.

Colour is crimson, legs clear slowly. Fairly intense aromas (dark berries, cherries, herbal notes too). Fruit and some spice on the palate, quite a juicy presence. Full bodied with good length on the finish that reflects the palate experience. Very Highly Recommended.

Vacqueyras is almost exclusively red wine country and grapes allowed include Grenache (at least 50%), Syrah  and Mourvedre (at least 20%).

Oh What A Wonderful Morgon At La Bonne Tonne

Domaine de la Bonne Tonne

The "Androgynous" Wines of Beaujolais.

Robert Joseph, whose French Wine was a bible for many of us, wrote in the 1999 edition: “There is something deliciously androgynous about Beaujolais that somehow sets it between red and white, with the colour of the former and the easy drinkability of the latter. The region’s unique ménage à trois of the Gamay grape (a variety that never performs as well elsewhere), granite soil, and the macération carbonique process,…. combines to produce wines with vibrant fruit and almost no perceptible tannin.”

Think he’d have been well pleased with Domaine de la Bonne Tonne, who farm a small area of Beaujolais. The Grillet family have been winemakers for 7 generations in Morgon and their vines are of an average age of 65 years. 1.10 ha is grown in Beaujolais appellation including 50 ares in Gamay and 60 ares in Chardonnay. The wines of the area possess a lot of finesse and a wonderfully expressive fruit.

Here is how the Grillets sum it up: “This is the challenge we have embarked on. To come to live off our profession by producing a small quantity of grapes for a great quality of wine and to make finally express itself this soil so rich which does not require less. The 'black gamay with white juice', the only grape variety authorized for red wines in Beaujolais, can thus translate all its complexity of aromas.”

Did you know that the Gamay grape is an exile? In 1395, it was outlawed by Royal decree as being “a very bad and disloyal plant”. Sixty years later another edict was issued against it. And so it was pushed out of Burgundy and south into neighbouring Beaujolais where it has thrived on the granite based soils. Wonder what those royals, Philippe the Bold and Philippe the Good, would make of these beautiful authentic wines from Bonne Tonne.

Domaine de la Bonne Tonne Morgon (AOC)  “Grands-Cras” 2017, 14%, €25.75 Mary Pawle  

Colour is mid-ruby with the tears reluctant to disappear. Inviting aromas of freshly crushed strawberry and blackberry, floral notes also. All lead to an expected big kiss of concentrated sensation on the palate. A perfectly harmonious experience though, thanks to the acidity and those silky tannins. Loveable all the way to a very satisfactory finish indeed. Very Highly Recommended.

Wine Enthusiast gave this 93 points saying: “The Grillet family's organically grown wine shows delicious, pure flavors of jammy blackberries cut with acidity. It comes from old vines in one of Morgon's cru vineyards, giving both concentration and a mineral structure.”  

Grands Cras is one of the three climats in which the the Grillet family operate in Morgon, the others being Cote de Py and Charmes. Les Grands Cras is at the foothills of Cote de Py.  Charmes is a granite area in the west part of the cru Morgon.

Domaine de la Bonne Tonne Morgon (AOC) “Les Charmes” 2017, 14%, €27.00

Again mid-ruby is the colour. Rich jammy aromas of dark berries. And again we get those pure and delicious flavours of the fruit, plus the usual fresh acidity, smooth and velvety all the way to the excellent finish, a harmonious trip from initial attack to the finalé. 

Made from 100% Gamay grapes from vines with an average age of 65 years, it is vinified naturally with natural yeast and no added sulphur in the wine making. This wine, like all the Bonne Tonne bottles, is made with authenticity and aplomb, and little else. No herbicides, no pesticides here. No filtration and a minimal dose of SO2 is added to the bottling to avoid any degradation of the wine during transport.

Domaine de la Bonne Tonne Morgon (AOC) “Cote du Py” 2015, 14%, €28.75 Mary Pawle  

Colour: Mid ruby, tears slow to go. Intense and rich and inviting dark berry aromas, fresh and complex. And that all follows through to the immediately loveable palate, rich and rounded, seamless harmony all the way through to a long intense finish. Very Highly Recommended.

The Morgon "Côte du Py", is the most famous climate of the vineyard. There are ten crus in the Beaujolais region and Morgon, as you probably know, is one of them. With the typical acidity, these wines can match a range of foods. One suggestion that I fancy is Moroccan Lamb Tagine with apricot.

World famous for its exceptional soil resulting from ancient volcanic activity, the soil of the Py hill is composed of decomposing volcanic elements, with the presence of iron oxide and manganese. The blue rock is friable, and so the locals have been known to claim that the best Morgon are made on this land of  terre pourrie (rotten rock)! 

And more good news from Mary Pawle...

Mary Pawle will soon have this gem (due by end of the month); she already has the Energies on her list. I'll be ordering! The review above is from November's Decanter.

High Quality Reds from High Altitudes

Alfredo Maestro “El Marciano”, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon, 2017, 15%, €19.65

64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Dark ruby colour. Aromas of dark fruit, cherry prominent. Spicy dark fruit on the palate, fresh powerful acidity, medium to full bodied, deep and generous, a harmonious example of the grape right through to the long dry finish. Very Highly Recommended.

I've seen it referred to as a glowing Garnacha. And why not? Le Caveau tells us winegrower Alfred Maestro’s mantra is:  “Wine made with only grapes, well-kept vineyards, and healthy land.” 

From the  beginning (he started making his own wine in 1998), he farmed organically.  But, in the cellar, he followed the book, followed the herd, until he began to question himself. No additives in the field so why not follow the same guidelines in the winery? And so he began. On his own path, a path that has led to this beautiful expertly crafted wine and others (he makes no less than 11 cuvées).

By the way, the fruit for this one (a great wine with roast pork) comes from 70 year-old Garnacha vines grown on decomposed granite soils at a staggering 1,150 m. elevation in the upcoming region of Gredos mountain range.  

Domaine Bousquet Grande Reserve Malbec (Mendoza, Argentina) 2014, 13.5%, €24.35 Mary Pawle

A violet robe for this organic wine. Strong aromas of ripe red and darker fruits. Fruity and spicy on the palate with rounded tannins. Excellent concentration of pure fruit. Its time in oak (it has been aged in French oak for 12 months) has helped leave it velvety smooth and the finish is long and satisfying. Quite exquisite overall and Very Highly Recommended. 

Now what to match with it? The barbecue would be a good place to start. The label suggests grilled red meats, cheeses as well as chocolate based desserts. Some of you may well notice chocolate notes in the wine itself.

A 1990 vacation in Argentina was all it took. For third-generation winemaker Jean Bousquet, it was love at first sight. The object of the Frenchman’s desire: the Gualtallary Valley, a scenic, remote, arid terrain high in the Tupungato district of the Uco Valley in Argentina’s Mendoza region, close to the border with Chile. 

Here, where the condors fly and not a vine in sight, Bousquet discovered his dream terroir, an ideal location in which to nurture organically-grown wines. From that virgin territory, nothing planted, no water above ground, no electricity, the French wine-making family’s venture is now recognised as the source of some of Mendoza’s finest wines. The vineyard is located in the foothills of the Andes and is an incredible 1200 metres above sea level. Here the thermal amplitude contributes to fully ripened grapes with excellent acidity.

Two Outstanding Wines From Recovered Vineyard

Abandoned Vineyard Restored to Vitality and Outstanding Wines Result.

When Carlo Volpi acquired the La Zerba farm in 2003, it had been abandoned and his plan was to start from scratch. But the eminent oenologist Giuliano Noè convinced Carlo not to do so but instead to recover and restore it. The advice was taken and the eventual results are outstanding.

Volpi La Zerba Barbera Superiore Colli Tortonesi (DOC) 2016, 13.5%, €18.80 Mary Pawle

Colour is a mid to dark ruby. Ripe blackberries feature in the quite intense aromas. Light and lively and a little bit spicy on the palate. Dark red fruit flavours now prominent. Tannins hardly a feature. But there is terrific acidity here and that means it will be quite versatile with food. 

Importer Mary Pawle says it can pair well “with more than just antipasta. Works well with steak and duck or goose dishes”. The word from the producers is “salami hors d oeuvres, highly structured first courses, red meat and game dishes.” Versatile indeed. Very Highly Recommended.

Jancis Robinson, while acknowledging the popularity of the grape in northern Italy says Barbera is not intrinsically the most flavourful grape in the viticultural universe – “a vague blackberry quality plus tartness is about as close as one can come to the essential flavour of Barbera”.  Our Zerba more or less fits that description and, at just over 18 euro, is good value and well worth a try.

Colli Tortonesi is one of the dozens of DOC zones in Piedmonte and is very close to Lombardy. The Cantine Volpi company is located in one of the most beautiful wine areas in the province of Alessandria and in the Piedmont region in general. DOC ageing for this wine is a minimum of 1 year. This has had 13 months between stainless steel tank and bottle.

When Carlo Volpi acquired the La Zerba farm in 2003, it had been abandoned and his plan was to start from scratch. But the eminent oenologist Giuliano Noè convinced Carlo not to do so but instead to recover and restore it. The advice was taken and the eventual results are outstanding.

Volpi La Zerba Timorasso Colli Tortonesi (DOC) 2016, 13%, €21.50 Mary Pawle

Released from its very dark bottle, this Timorasso shows a very light straw colour. Delicately aromatic, mainly floral. Full bodied and dry, with melon flavours, it is immediately refreshing on the palate with a fresh and herby acidity. Highly Recommended.

Timorasso, says Mary Pawle, is one of the most exciting Italian autochthonous grape varieties to surface in recent years, from the Colli Tortonesi wine region in south east Piemonte, not far from Gavi in fact. “This ancient variety was brought from the brink of extinction having been reduced to just 120 hectares in 2010. Aromatic, full bodied with good acidity.” The grape is still a bit of a rarity.

A Trio of Excellent Wines from Mary Pawle

A Trio of Excellent Wines from Mary Pawle

Château Peybonhomme-Les-Tours “Energies” Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux (AOP) 2016, 13%, €30.00, Mary Pawle

This biodynamic wine from the right bank of the Gironde estuary (those of you who have holidayed in the Royan region may have seen booths selling Blaye wines in the local markets) is outstanding. It is a blend of 60% Merlot, 30% Malbec and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Dark ruby is the colour and there are fairly intense dark fruit aromas with a hint of minerality. It is fresh, light and dry to finish. Fresh and flavourful and packed with those dark fruits. Medium bodied, juicy and light, quite succulent indeed. Excellent acidity help with the food pairings. Tannins are smooth. Young, yet smooth beyond its years. This early maturity means it can be enjoyed now or postponed for up to ten years. No postponing here, Very Highly Recommended as it is.

Interestingly, having been wild yeast fermented in concrete with a week-long, post-ferment maceration on skins,  it is then then aged in Italian clay amphora for one year before being bottled unfiltered and with minimal use of SO2. The terracotta of the amphora has been credited with “assuaging” the power and giving the palate a nice amplitude. 

Day of bottling was determined by the biodynamic calendar. Day of drinking? Seventh of July 2019.

Amastuola “Vignatorta” Puglia (IGP) 2014, 14%, €15.50 Mary Pawle

This blend of Syrah (75%) and Primitivo comes from Puglia in the heel of Italy and is organic. Vignatorta goes perfectly with red meat, game such as venison or wild boar, but also with white meat of poultry, turkey and duck.

Colour is an intense ruby. The aromas are also rather intense, berries and cherries in the mix. Cherry flavours make for a fruity and juicy palate experience; spice is prominent there too. Good acidity is also in evidence while the tannins just about retain their grip. Fruit and spice again at the decent finish. Highly Recommended.

Amastuola “Lamarossa” Primitivo Puglia (IGT) 2015, 14.5%, €19.95 Mary Pawle

My attention wandered after opening this and I was pleasurably sipping away,  thoroughly enjoying it, when I realised that  I hadn’t taken a single note.

This is 100% Primitivo, the twin of California’s Zinfandel, and has the high alcohol content of its American relation. Like the Vignatorta (above), it is organic. In my humble opinion, it is more sophisticated and a better wine than the Vignatorta, a bit more expensive too of course. Ageing is 6 months in oak barrels, 6 months in cement.

Amastuola Lamarossa is a wine suitable for the whole meal, which goes perfectly with both white and red meats. Referred as “a veritable ode to the terroir of Taranto”, this Primitivo IGT has a deep, almost impenetrable ruby-red colour. 

Aromas are intense, featuring  berries and cherries. A very juicy palate, less spice than its stablemate, acidity enough along with quite subtle tannins and persistent finish. A pleasure to drink and Very Highly Recommended.

A Couple of Excellent Whites, Both Organic. Three to watch in Karwig's Sale.

A Couple of Excellent Whites, Both Organic

Diwald Grüner Veltliner “Goldberg” Wagram (Austria) 2015, 13%, €20.75 Mary Pawle

The loess soils of the Wagram are particularly favourable to Grüner Veltliner and this is another excellent example by Diwald. Very Highly Recommended.

This is a light gold colour, and bright. Aromas led by citrus, a touch of pepper. Zesty too on the palate as this light and lively wine spreads around. Light and thirst quenching yet also quite assertive. It has spent 8 months on lees.

Generally GrüVe is well paired with salads and vegetables and makes for a mouthwatering aperitif and importer Mary Pawle recommends serving this Diwald with scallops. 

But the grape is very versatile. Terry Theise, in Reading Between the Wines, says GrüVe is a hugely important variety “both for its flavour and also for its usefulness”. It is “by far the most flexible dry white wine in the world at the table”. He concludes: “..once you encounter it, you may not be able to imagine life without it”. High praise indeed.

The Diwalds, long-time practitioners of organic wine-making, say Goldberg is one of the best single vineyards in the village. Terraces and hills which slope towards the Danube Valley and mighty loess ground build the foundation for the Goldberg wines. According to Martin Diwald, the goal is “to produce cheerful wines, in which the zest of the region and the philosophy of the vintner are united.” Reckon he scores with this one! As do his customers.

Jacques Frelin Pouilly-Fumé (AOP) 2017, 13%, €26.60 Mary Pawle

Minerality and elegance are head-lined on the back label of this organic Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire and they are indeed a notable part of the very pleasant experience.

Colour is a very light straw. Intense aromas (melon, pear/apple, honeysuckle notes). Lively fruit, the classic citrus in there too, lively acidity, that minerality and elegance, very refreshing and a good dry finish. Well made, well balanced. Excellent and Very Highly Recommended.

No need to say too much more. Mary Pawle recommends trying it with trout or salmon and also goat’s cheese. I’ve seen recommendations for pairing it with shellfish, spicy food, salads, pork, and light pasta dishes.

Karwig's Closing Down Sale Continues
Three to look out for!

Rochebin Macon Lugny (AOP) Chardonnay 2018, 12.5%, Karwig Wines was 15.85, now 10.30…

Colour is a mid gold. Aromas of white fruit, floral notes too. Soft and rich on the palate, peach and melon flavours, rounded mouthfeel, fresh acidity too and a good finish. Very quaffable on its own and pairs well with: spiced tapas, charcuterie, white meats (chicken, veal) or seafood platters. Treat yourself - Highly Recommended.

Machard De Gramont “Dom. De La Vierge Romaine” Pinot Noir Bourgogne (AOC) 2017, 13%, €19.95 (prior to closing down sale) Karwigs

Aged in old oak for 13 months, this is an excellent Pinot Noir, full of character and well-priced even before news of Karwig’s closing-down sale broke.

Mid-ruby is the colour and it has a bright sheen. Aromas, with berries and cherries in the mix, are light and lovely. On the palate it is deliciously fruity, the merest touch of sweet spice, acidity enough, tannins barely noticeable with a decent finish. Elegant and fresh and Highly Recommended.

Georg Müller Stiftung Hattenheimer Hassel Riesling Kabinett Trocken Rheingau 2012, 11.5%, €20.50 (now 12.30) Karwig Wines.

This has the VDP eagle displayed on the neck, “a guarantee of pure wine pleasure”, not a bad start. For many years the winery was a foundation for the benefit of the town of Eltville in the Hattenheim region. In 2003, it came back into private ownership.

Colour is a light straw with green tints. Citrus aromas with a touch of diesel. Lively and fruity on the palate, fading slowly to a dry finish. Highly Recommended.

Excellent Languedoc Blend and Portugal's "Best White Grape"

Esprit de Crès Ricards Marsanne-Roussanne Pays d’OC (IGP) 2017, 13%, €14.50 Karwig Wine

This Esprit is part of a series made by Crès Ricards from local grapes. I’ve always liked these two, either solo or in a blend (as is the case here) and that’s why I bought this in Karwig’s. It is 70% Marsanne.

Colour is a mid-straw, bright and clear. White fruit and floral notes on the nose. Intense and lasting flavours, passionfruit and honeysuckle, make this a pleasant experience from rich and fresh attack to the apricot affected finalé. Highly Recommended.

Interestingly, one of the suggested pairings is blue cheese. Maybe not that surprising anymore. In Matt Kramer’s book, True Taste (2015), he wrote: “…. increasingly, the most serious lovers of cheese choose white wines over red. This would have astounded our wine- and cheese-loving forebears.” 

The winery suggests seafood, fish, poultry dishes and, yes, blue cheese, and also as an aperitif.

As you probably know, Karwig's are closing their business in Carrigaline and a closing-down sale is in progress. You may well get this one at a better price than above.

Casa de Mouraz Encruzado Dáo (DOC) 2016, 13%, €21.00 Mary Pawle

In 1997, Casa de Mouraz became the first biodynamic winery in the Dao. Portuguese grapes aren't that well known individually in this country. Encruzado, the grape here, is “potentially the best white grape of the DAO” according to Grapes and Wine. Barrel fermentation and lees stirring help bring out the character. It is indigenous and regarded as the most important white grape in the region and this particular wine has had eight months on fine lees with batonage.

The first thing you’ll note is that the cork is covered with a wax. Just remove that with the blade on your corkscrew. It is fairly soft but be careful!

Colour is a mid-straw. Aromas of medium intensity recall white fruits and citrus, floral notes too. Fresh fruit flavours (apricot, peach), excellent mouthfeel, acidity enough to nudge it towards crisp and a decent citrus-y finish too. Highly Recommended.

Food pairing: Oven baked fish (such as codfish, salmon or tuna). Also very good with white meat and some vegetarian dishes like pasta with pesto or cheese sauces. Aside from handling full flavoured fish dishes (also the Portuguese favourite bacalao), it is excellent on its own. very versatile indeed.