Two to Recommend: A Kiwi Gruner and an Aussie Shiraz.

Two to Recommend: A Kiwi Gruner and an Aussie Shiraz.

Tinpot Hut `McKee Vineyard` Gruner Veltliner Marlborough 2017 13.0% ABV

RRP € 24.99 Baggot Street Wines, Drink Store, Wineonline.ie

Very pale gold in the glass with micro bubbles clinging to the sides. Aromatic for sure, citrus prominent and subtle hints of the grape’s trademark white pepper. The lovely mouthfeel makes an immediate impression as does the lively acidity. And then the fruit, peach and nectarine, quickly begins to show in this excellent crisp wine. Terrific lip-smacking finish lingers. Very Highly Recommended.

The Tinpot Hut story began in 2003 when winemaker Fiona Turner and her husband Hamish established their own 20 hectare vineyard in Marlborough's emerging sub-region of Blind River. Naming her range of wines after a historic Marlborough mustering hut, the 'Tinpot Hut' links the area's sheep farming past with its current state as one of the world's most dynamic wine regions. 

Fruit is sourced from Fiona's 'Home Block' and is supplemented by grapes from selected vineyards (grown by the McKee family, Fiona’s friends and neighbours). Fiona is assisted by Matt Thomson, a friend and colleague with whom she has worked for many years.

Tinpot say: The 2017 growing season presented some challenges with a major earthquake in November affecting trellising at the home block. Variable weather during the flowering period in Spring delivered moderate crop levels and a cool and windy Summer required a lot of canopy manipulation. This hard work rewarded us with good quality fruit showing classic flavours and balance. Careful harvest decisions along with fast, flexible picking and good management in the winery have ensured an exciting spectrum of flavours in the harvested grapes.

Suggested pairings: Enjoy with oily seafood such as salmon and tuna or, alternatively, roasted pork and duck.

16 Stops Shiraz South Australia 2019, 14.0%, 

€ 15.99, Baggot Street Wines, Blackrock Cellar, Clontarf Wines, Drink Store, Ely Wine Store, Fresh - The Good Food Market, Jus de Vine, Station to Station Wine, The Cinnamon Cottage Cork, Wineonline.ie, World Wide Wines

 

This Shiraz (no messing around with Syrah here) has a crimson colour,  a little lighter towards the edge. Aromas are of dark fruit, including plum. Only a small proportion has been matured in French oak hogsheads for added complexity. And the oak supports rather than dominates on the palate which has intense fruit. The lively spice though is not as shy. Round tannins evident too as this well balanced wine proceeds smoothly to a dry finish. Quite a bit of character and Highly Recommended. Good value too by the way.

Importers Liberty: We felt it was best to invest in premium regions for our 'entry point' Australian wines. Given the quality of the fruit from which they are made, the 16 Stops wines offer tremendous value for money.The wines are made with fruit from the McLaren Vale and the Adelaide regions. They are produced alongside the Willunga 100 wines in McLaren Vale and benefit from the same expert input from Mike Farmilo.

The name 16 Stops refers to the number of stations on the railway line from Adelaide. It was built in 1915 to transport goods and people between the country town of Willunga and Adelaide. I know an Australian who would rename it as 16 Stubbies.

Top Wines 2020 Short List. Look to Chile's Itata for red, to Spain's Navarra for white

 Top Wines 2020 Short List

Found my Red in Itata, White in Navarra

Hard work in Itata - from a Liberty Wines Zoomed Masterclass 2020.

Pedro Parra “Vinista” Itata Chile 2018 Liberty

Clos des Fous “Pour Ma Geule” Itata Chile 2016 Liberty

Montes “Outer Limits” Cinsault 2017 DO Valle del Itata Liberty

Leonardo Erazo “A Los Viñateros Bravos” Volcánico País 2018 Itata (Chile) Le Caveau

Azul y Garanza Naturaleza Salvaje Blanca Navarra 2019 Mary Pawle

Blank Canvas Grüner Veltliner Marlborough (2013) Liberty

Ata Rangi “Lismore” Pinot Gris Martinborough 2018 Liberty

While most of the wine I drink these days comes from Europe (much of the red from France), it seems my favourite red wine area for 2020 is Itata in Chile. Light reds are emerging as a personal favourite and here in Itata, with the likes of Pedro Parra, Aurelio Montes and Leonardo Erazo working their magic, we are enjoying beautiful bottles based on País but also Cinsault. The four listed above are superb and I'm not inclined to pick any one over the others.

Aside from the Itata wines, Beaujolais, Burgundy and the Loire (Cabernet Franc), will also feature on my shopping lists. Indeed, the Passetoutgrains below is a gem. Navarra has some outstanding winemakers including Azul y Garanza and Tandem. Also in Spain, Bodegas Pinuaga made a big impression on me early in the year.

No Itata equivalent in the whites but the two from New Zealand  are outstanding and are distinctive examples of Grüner Veltliner and Pinot Gris. Austria is, of course, the home of Gru-Vee and Diwald come up with the goods year after year as indeed does Judith Beck. The three French whites featured are each worth looking out for. And Spain has come up with a stunning Garnacha white, by Azul y Garanza, pipping the Kiwis for my white of the year!

The Short List 2020

RED

Chile

Pedro Parra “Vinista” Itata Chile 2018 Liberty

Clos des Fous “Pour Ma Geule” Itata Chile 2016 Liberty

Montes “Outer Limits” Cinsault 2017 DO Valle del Itata Liberty

Leonardo Erazo “A Los Viñateros Bravos” Volcánico País 2018 Itata (Chile) Le Caveau

France

J.M. Cazes Domaine des Sénéchaux Châteauneuf-du-Pape (AOC) 2016 O’Brien’s

Domaine Lacour Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (AOP) 2017 Le Caveau

J-C Regnaudot Pinot Noir Bourgogne (AOC) '17 Le Caveau

Château du Cèdre Héritage Malbec, Cahors (AOC) 2016 Le Caveau

Domaine de Brau PURE Pinot Noir, Pays D’Oc (IGP) 2015 Mary Pawle

Italy

GD Vajra Nebbiolo Langhe (DOC) 2018 Liberty

Spain

Bodegas Pinuaga Tinto “Colección” Vino de la Tierra de Castilla  2016 Mary Pawle

Tandem Ars Nova Navarra (DO) 2014 O'Brien's

Azul y Garanza  “Naturaleze Salvaje” Navarra (DO) 2017 Mary Pawle

Portugal

Casa Ferreirinha Vinha Grande Douro (DOC)  Douro Tinto 2017 Liberty

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WHITE

Spain

Azul y Garanza Naturaleza Salvaje Blanca 2019 Mary Pawle

New Zealand

Blank Canvas Grüner Veltliner Marlborough (2013) Liberty

Ata Rangi “Lismore” Pinot Gris Martinborough 2018 Liberty

France

Meyer-Fonné Gentil Alsace (AOC) 2018 Le Caveau

Bertrand Ambroise Lettre d’Eloïse Chardonnay “Coteaux Bourguignons” (AOC) 2017 Le Caveau

Rijckaert Chardonnay Arbois (AOC) 2018 Bradley’s/Wine Mason

Germany

Lingenfelder Riesling Trocken Kabinett Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel Pfalz (DP) 2018 O’Briens

Portugal

Casa Ferreirinha Vinha Grande Douro (DOC) Douro Branco 2019 Liberty

Austria

Diwald Grüner Veltliner (Wagram, Austria) 2018 Mary Pawle

Beck Weissburgunder Austria 2019 Le Caveau 

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Red and White Doubles

Fancy a good pair of red and white on your table at Christmas table or indeed at anytime? Why not try the Le Caveau pair, the Passetoutgrains (16.95) and the Gentil (18.00), listed above.

Lingenfelder Riesling Trocken Kabinett Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel Pfalz (DP) 2018

Tandem Ars Nova Navarra (DO) 2014. Both from O’Brien’s

Diwald Grüner Veltliner (Wagram, Austria) 2018 Mary Pawle

De Brau Pure Pinot Noir Pays D’Oc (IGP) 2018 Mary Pawle

GD Vajra Nebbiolo Langhe (DOC) 2018 Liberty Wines

Pieropan Soave (DOC) Classico 2019 Liberty Wines

Andre Goichot Fleurie (AOC) 2018 Supervalu

Guy Saget Sancerre (AOC) 2018 Supervalu 

See the Long List here. 

And the Good Value List here.

Both should help you you in your quest for good wine in the run-up to Christmas and well into the New Year.

Top-notch Gru-Vee on the double from Blank Canvas and Fred Loimer

Top-notch Gru-Vee on the double

 from Blank Canvas and Fred Loimer

Blank Canvas Grüner Veltliner Marlborough (2013), 13%,

 €22.99 WINEONLINE.IE LTD; Ely Wine Store, Maynooth; The Corkscrew

Colour is quite a rich gold, with the odd flash of green. Aromas are also strong (yet restrained), exotic fruits (mandarin is mentioned on the label). White pepper also mentioned but didn’t get that, though there was a teeny hint of the diesel one normally finds in Riesling. That spice is certainly present on the fulsome palate along with stunning fruit (mandarin, peach), an amazing mouthful, and an equally amazing and long-lasting finish. Very Highly Recommended.

Experienced winemaker Matt Thompson and partner Sophie Parker-Thomson are the duo behind Blank Canvas and they conducted a recent zoomed masterclass for Liberty Wines. Grüner Veltliner is a relative newcomer to the Blank Canvas portfolio. “It’s fun to make it, totally different,” enthused Sophie. Oak has been used but they affirm that “the subtle influence of new and seasoned French oak puncheons .. provide weight and texture”.

And you may well come across that GV pepper in their Syrah which is co-fermented with 7.5% Grüner Veltliner skins. Matt: “I preferred the white pepper character of the Grüner to the riper Viognier fruit.”

Matt continued: “When I discovered Grüner Veltliner was available for planting in New Zealand, I jumped at the chance to be among the first to produce it. Looking at the similarities between the Austrian and Marlborough climates I know this was a very exciting opportunity not to be missed.”  

The Thompsons have no vineyards, yet, and they choose very carefully where and who they work with. Note too that all their wines are single vineyard.

Check out more details from the interesting Black Canvas masterclass here…. Some very interesting remarks on the use of sulphur.

Loimer “Lois” Grüner Veltliner 2018, 11.5%, 

€18.70 WINEONLINE.IE LTD. The Wine Centre, Kilkenny. Ely Wine Store, Maynooth. The Corkscrew

Colour is an attractive light to mid gold. Moderately intense aromas, fruit (apple, peach) and a herbal spice. Spice and fruit too on the lively palate where a bracing acidity makes the taste buds stand up and pay attention. Very refreshing and Very Highly Recommended.

Interestingly, Fred Loimer uses oak also but to a much lesser extent than Blank Canvas. Here, fermentation is spontaneous, 95% in stainless steel tanks and just 5% in used oak barrels, 2-4 weeks by 20° – 22°C. Ageing: in stainless steel tanks on fine lees for 4 months.

Food recommendations: Rice and pasta dishes with white meat or fried fish

Fred is a biodynamic wine-maker and, interestingly from an Irish point of view, says that “Cow manure is the best you can find for composting.” Cows have their fans across the wine world.  During the series of Liberty Wines organised masterclass, endorsements for our bovine friends by Aurelio Montez (Chile) and Giovanni Manetti (Chianti Classico) were followed up by Fred’s.

“You cannot separate plants and animals, nature works in a holistic way, together they have composted over the years to create the soil we have today,” said Fred. Biodiversity is another essential plank. “Monoculture is a big problem today. It is necessary to create as much biodiversity as possible. Not one hundred percent vineyard but always bushes, trees and grassland over the whole area.”

“Herbicide is a disaster. There is life in our soil. Always something going on, even in a small square, something like 60,000 lives in there, all doing something. We cover our soils, green cover, blooming cover. Our own compost is getting better and we spread it in the autumn…”

Check out more details from the very interesting Loimer masterclass here, terrific insights into the nuts and bolts of the biodynamic vineyard.

Wine Maestro Aurelio Montes Takes It To The Limit One More Time

Wine Maestro Aurelio Montes

 Takes It To The Limit One More Time

Down here, you don't pay tax on the part of the building that stands in the water!

Aurelio Montes, noted as one of the pioneers of top class Chilean wine, is taking it to the limit one more time. “If you don’t go to the limit, you won’t know what you can achieve,” he told us on last Tuesday’s Liberty Wine organised masterclass. Thanks to the magic of Zoom, Aurelio (wearing beret and poncho) was talking to us from a cool southern Chile on his way to the Chiloé Archipelago to check on his latest vineyard, this one on an island.

“I have known Aurelio for 7 or 8 years,” said Liberty MD David Gleave as he introduced him. “Known of him for much longer. He is always looking out for new areas, always pushing the barriers. It gives his wines an extra dimension. He is still full of energy and enthusiasm and a man of great knowledge.” 

Before

Aurelio said he was always seeking quality through innovation, never afraid to employ new technology. “Happy we have achieved so much. I enjoy too much what I do.” And then he took us through his Chilean vineyards. (He also has an international presence).

He has had an eye for a good location from his university days. As a 21 year old he visited a place (150km south of Santiago) and began to dream of making vine in Apalta. “Time went on,..” before, years later, with his partners, “we bought a bit of land”. “We planted the vineyard and were totally correct. The quality was amazing. Then we started planting on the hillsides and the neighbours thought we were crazy. Year by year though it was good - for Syrah, Carmenere, Cabernet Sauvignon and more. Then we started getting noticed.” And Montes began to grow - they have no less than three pages of wines in the Liberty catalogue.

After

“I’m a moving kind of guy.. never stay still.. just can’t stay in one place. Why not move to the coastline?” And so they did, to Marchigüe. “Just 6km to the coast, more gentle slopes, a rolling landscape and the temperature of course is more coastal. .. mainly reds but a little Chardonnay, Viognier. Results here were even more encouraging, wines with character and personality, really fantastic. We are now trying Touriga Nacional, Tannat, more. We were the first ones there and it’s been an amazing experience. A beautiful place. I take a look every week and I never get tired of it.”

And the coast was the draw again for his next move, to Zapallar “an expensive summer resort, in the Aconcagua Valley”. They were by the sea but there was a lack of water, a worldwide problem due to climate change, he said. “So thinking of the future, we started a programme of dry farming, we built a reservoir and we have two deep wells and deliberately keep the yields low. Results are great, fantastic concentration, great expression and personality plus acidity. It’s been a wonderful challenge, a big vineyard and we are always exploring”. And they’ve had success with Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.

“It is totally coastal influenced. In morning there’s mist and fog and then a shy sunshine from mid day. The vines grow happy. The grapes ripen slowly.” And you can find these coastal beauties in the Outer Limits range, also imported by Liberty. Aurelio was sipping the Pinot (possible best in Chile) as he spoke.

As he said, they are always exploring. He is delighted with the “little bit of Syrah, looking fantastic, a lighter coastal wine, lot of character and freshness.” And David Gleave endorsed that opinion.

The reservoir

“We are fearless,” continued Aurelio. “We don’t stop always trying things.” Albarino is next on the list. He related how he was in Spain about 3 years back and “fell in love” with Albarino and “is moving some here as Zapallar is like Rias Baixas”.

Coastal viticulture has been good to Aurelio and so the next logical step for this regular yachtsman was to set up on an island and he found it in Chiloé, 1200km south of Santiago. “You have to go to the limits to discover how far you can go! It is beyond the viticultural limits.”

You’ll often hear of the cooling influence of the Humboldt current off the Chilean coast. Fortunately, for Aurelio, the current doesn’t get in around the Chiloé Archipelago and so the temperature on the islands is a few degrees higher than you might expect! Otherwise it would probably be too cold for the vines.

“The soil is volcanic, one metre deep, fertility not that big. There are 120 inhabitants, 10 kids in school and there is a culture of fishing. We decided to plant seven varieties.” That was in 2016. No harvest yet but 2021 will tell what the Mechuque vineyard (which runs down to the sea) is capable of. Knowing Aurelio’s record, you wouldn’t be betting against him!

Where next for Aurelio?

* All pics are screenshots from the masterclass.

Previous masterclasses in this current series:

The Day The Vines Died in Alto Piemonte with Luca de Marchi
Matt Thompson's Blank Canvas in Marlborough

Portuguese Grape Varieties with Antonio Braga

A masterclass from Tuscany by wine-maker Paolo De Marchi

Rebooting Armenia's Ancient Winemaking with Zoric Gharabian

Barolo 2016 with Franco Massolino and Giuseppe Vajra

Biodynamic Californian Winemaker Ted Lemon of Littorai

Charles Heidsieck is "freshened up" by Cyril Brun

Cellar Master Émilien Boutillat Details Climate Change Challenges.

Barolo 2016 is something rare!

Barolo 2016 is something rare!

Franco Massolino (with a map of the Barolo area in background).

“Barolo 2016 is something rare! An outstanding vintage. Unique.” So said Franco Massolino during a Liberty Wines organised online masterclass last Friday. Fellow Barolo winemaker Giuseppe Vajra was our other speaker, both introduced by Tim Platt (Sales Director Liberty). Dennis Drazan Sunjic coordinated the speakers and also the question and answer session at the end.

So what made 2016 so good? Franco pointed to the weather during the year that gave them “the longest cycle of vegetation”. “The winter was relatively warm, and dry. Spring came early. A lot of rain at the right time. “We never had temperature too high and it was never too dry. September unusually warm, but not crazy.” Following the warm days and cool nights of September,  “complete ripeness was achieved in our harvest”.

He said the wine has the identity of the village, it is complete, elegant, powerful. “With longevity, 30 or 40 years no problem. The different wines underlined the identity of our various vineyards. The Barolo has achieved an outstanding level of expression, a really classical expression.”

Giuseppe

Giuseppe confirmed Franco’s assessment. “He is really spot-on, it is a killer vintage, a textbook classico vintage that expresses a sense of place and highlights the differences in the various terroirs.”

It was the first year that Giuseppe had kept a diary of the season. And the first benign sign he noticed was the “abundant flowering”. In the wine, there is a promise of longevity, the tannins are not in your face, ”so you can already enjoy it and I think that the flowerings is key in this”.

Dennis asked him to talk about recent vintages and Giuseppe said the 2015 is very good and the 2017 is excellent and interesting. But 2014 was challenging because of rain and hail. Franco though was more optimistic about the 2014, perhaps because they were able to salvage some “small quantities with outstanding qualities”. Obviously the hail didn’t hit every vineyard equally. “We have some small quantities and are extremely proud of it”. Seems to be the classic case of a good winemaker producing an excellent wine in a bad year.

Dennis then posed a tough question for the duo. “Which is your best cru from 2016?” Very hard for Giuseppe to answer as they had invested so much hard work into each. He didn’t really want to pick one but, under gentle pressure, went for the Barolo Bricco delle Viole for “its flair and elegance”. 

Franco agreed that it was a tough question and he picked the Barolo Parussi. “I got great satisfaction from that as it is the youngest of our vineyards.” He quickly added that the Marghleria “is also very good.”. Both men agreed that 2016 was similar to 2008.

Franco admitted to “still trying to understand more”..”to take care of each plant in the best possible way.” You can gather that the improvement in the fortunes of Barolo over recent decades owes much to men like these. He continued: “There is a big difference to what happened in the 70s and 80s when the goal was to produce as much as possible. There was attention too to quality but not like today.”

The soil - like lasagna

Franco’s family have been in the wine business here for 120 years. “Our range of wines represent the historic style of Barolo, a unique wine in this micro-climate, the right place to show Nebiolo’s potential. We try to balance all our wines, to respect the identity and delicate notes of the variety. We don’t change a lot in the winery.”

Franco

Giuseppe was dragged away from his soccer games (he was playing too much of it - well he was just 15) to plant his first vineyard. He and his current team are still youthful and he is proud of their work. “We hope we get wiser as we go on. We started organically and our first vintage in 1972 was not a good one, not worth ageing!” The whole extended family are at work here in this “multicultural team” near the village of Barolo.

Franco’s family are in the area of Serralunga d’Alba “where every hill can be different” and that results “in great variety” in the wines around here. The family is involved here too and they “always look for the best expression.. while looking after our vineyard”. In fact, most of them are out and about in the vines these days, staying away from the offices due to Covid19.

The virus was also on Giuseppe’s mind. “We think of all you hospitality people these days. Stay strong!” He talked about the soil of the area, “basically sedimentary”, layers laid down over the years ”like lasagna”. And he reckoned that tiny variations in the ph readings (a measurement of acidity and alkalinity) for the two areas may account for the differences between wines from the two villages.

Check out the Barolo producers below:

Massolino http://www.massolino.it/

Vajra http://www.gdvajra.it/en/homepage

Recent Masterclasses:
 Charles Heidsieck, one of the most admired Champagne houses.
Meet Ted Lemon of California's Littorai vineyard