Showing posts with label Liberty Wines. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Liberty Wines. Show all posts

Tuesday, June 16, 2020

How Australia's Supportive Winemakers Aided Chardonnay Shine. Eventually.

How Australia's Supportive Winemakers Aided Chardonnay Shine. Eventually.
Shaw and Hill Smith (who said it would hard to beat an actual tasting to illustrate the difference between Chardonnay from the Adelaide Hills and that from Tasmania)

The day after Wine Australia hosted a webinar on the 2020 harvest, that very subject came up yesterday in the latest Zoom masterclass, organised by Liberty Wines. Two Australians, Michael Hill Smith (co-owner Shaw+Smith) and chief winemaker Adam Wadewitz, were telling us about Chardonnay and the differences between the Adelaide Hills (where their main vineyard is) and Tasmania where they now own the Tolpuddle Vineyard.

Adam, in Tolpuddle
So how did 2020 go? 
Adam said it was challenging but he had an amazing team “up for it”. “Frost early, rain at the long time, poor flowering and then the fires in December, fear of smoke taint”. Those fires came quite close but helped by the wind and advice from Australia Wine Research, the vineyard got through. While the yield was down, “the fruit was pristine, great flavour and acidity. We don’t have huge amounts in the winery but the wines are spectacular!”

Shaw + Smith, for thirty years, have had two vineyards in the Adelaide Hills, at Balhannah and Lenswood, totalling 55 hectares. The vineyards are planted to varieties that perform particularly well in the region, namely Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Shiraz. Now a third, at Piccadilly, is being planted.

In introducing Michael and Adam, Liberty Wines MD David Gleave said it was exciting how Chardonnay had moved from being big and oaky over the last 15 years. “Now there’s a huge diversity with regional characteristics.”

Michael put the development down to movement in many areas of winemaking but especially to a change of philosophy of winemakers away from the big rich oaky wines to something much more subtle and refined.

Adam admitted to being obsessed with Chardonnay. “We have learned along the way, moved the varietal to cooler regions, to cooler sites in those regions… more exposure to international examples has led to an evolution in style and so too has farming the right grapes (including Chardonnay) in the right places.”

Quite a few Australian areas now make a balanced Chardonnay (Margaret River, Yarra Valley, Mornington among them) with acidity part of the mix. Michael: “The fruit is still there but the winemaking is supportive, quiet.”

Michael continued: “Chardonnay has always been part of our story here in the Adelaide Hills but our first wine, in 1990, got away from us. Secretly we were a bit disappointed but five weeks later it was awarded White Wine of the Year!”

Adam: “Chardonnay had an amazing connection with the place, purity, acidity, and it was possible to refine it over the years. The new generation want wines to speak of place. We pick earlier to protect the acidity. I agree there has been real change, not only at Shaw+Smith.”

Is there a definitive Adelaide Hills Chardonnay character? Michael: “I think of a slight ripe nectarine. Not skinny but with mid-palate intensity, weight and length and acidity and that lovely stone fruit character, whereas Margaret River has more pear.”

Shaw+Smith are in conversion to organic. Adam is happy: “More bio-diversity, more healthy fruit, ferment is better.”
Cooler in Tasmania

“We use oak but don’t want to see it in the final wine, hard to explain that to accountants”, Adam joked. “We use it for oxygen, tannin, not flavour. Barrel size is a big thing. We used larger at Adelaide Hills but Tasmania is so good, small barrels are more suitable.”

Their move into Tasmania was not quite in character, according to Michael. “We are not easily distracted; we tend to focus on what works well and Adelaide Hills was successful. I’d heard wonderful things about Tasmania but had never heard of Tolpuddle until our visit. I loved the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and three weeks later we owned it with no real idea of how to manage it!”

When Adam visited, he was struck by the extraordinary acidity (like Mosel or Chablis, according to Michael), the extraordinary intensity of flavour. “It is an exciting vineyard,” said Adam. “Great to work in Adelaide Hills and Tasmania, totally different regions and great to apply our understanding that the vines and the winemaking need a different approach.”

An example of layering, with the "mother" centre,
the" baby" to the right
While the Tassie vines were well planted by professionals, the spacing could have been better. They got around that by the method of Layering. That doubled the number of vines which in turn allowed them manage each vine to produce half of the previous yield, so less stress on the individual plant.

With Tasmania on the agenda, it was inevitable that someone would ask about sparkling wines for which the island is so well known. Michael, a big Champagne fan, said sparkling is 60% of the island’s production and that he really rates them. “We know how to make sparkling and Tolpuddle can do it with the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. We know how to do it but I’m not convinced that we will.” And one got the impression that both men would tend towards making top notch still wines. Michael said Tasmania is an emerging place, “exciting stuff coming out” of there, even though it is just 1% of total Australian production.

The final questioner asked if an appellation system would help in promoting Australian wine.
Michael: “We do have very strong laws on defining regions and they are well policed. Don’t think Australians will be told what to plant where. Wine Australia does well with the current regime.”


Sunday, June 14, 2020

Thinking of visiting Dublin as it opens up? 36 Hours in the Capital. A Hotel with Pawsonality! On Spuds and Stroganoff. Wine & Whiskey.

Thinking of visiting Dublin as it opens up?
36 Hours in the Capital. A Hotel with Pawsonality!
On Spuds and Stroganoff. Wine & Whiskey.
Oscar Wilde, on his own little mont

It is just after lunchtime when we arrive at Heuston Station on a short visit to Dublin (in March last). First we have to get rid of the suitcase and so we hop on the Luas and then walk over to the Mont Hotel to check in. 

The first person, well not a person, we see is Monty the resident dog, a very calm and sociable French Bulldog. This is a dog friendly hotel and four of the 96 rooms are set up for you and your four-legged friend. The bad news is that they don’t allow big dogs!
The Mont Hotel

Monty
The 2019 hotel, part of the O’Callaghan group (they two other hotels in close proximity, the Davenport and the Alex), is quite central: Merrion Square Park (2 minutes), The National Gallery of Ireland (5); Grafton Street (10). Our room wasn’t the biggest but was well equipped and very comfortable. 

The bar has quite a bit of craft beer in bottle, a corner for dining, and three big screens if you want to catch the football. They also have an Italian themed menu in the restaurant (where you also have your breakfast - no Full Irish though as the buffet doesn’t have any pudding, black or white).
Braised Lamb Boxty Dumplings


After sampling some of the wines at the Liberty Portfolio tasting,  later that afternoon, we headed out to Temple Bar for dinner. Our choice was the Boxty House. Just as well we had a reservation as it was very busy on a Monday night. 

It is all about the humble spud here and only here will you find the original and authentic Boxty wrap.They serve the 3 types of Boxty found in the border counties of Leitrim, Cavan and Fermanagh.

My main course, a very flavoursome one indeed, was the Braised Lamb Boxty Dumplings. Delicious tender spiced lamb, marinated with chilli, soy sauce, oyster sauce, garlic and ginger, sautéed with Boxty Dumplings and served with cooling Tzatziki Sauce.

Portions are large enough here as we found out with our other mains: the Corned Beef Boxty (tender slow-cooked Corned Beef with Sautéed Cabbage and Kale in a parsley sauce in a Boxty Pancake). Terrific flavour on the plate as well.

Lunch at the Kemp Sisters IMMA
Believe it or not, they also do Boxty Crisps and you can taste those with the Mushroom and Chickpea Pate served with a sweet onion chutney and those crisps. 

The Boxty Crostini Trio starter gives you a great idea of what you are in for. Here, they serve three pieces of Toasted Boxty Loaf with different toppings: Irish Brie and Red Onion, Smoked Salmon and Chive Sour Cream and St Tola Goats Cheese with Tomato Sauce. I enjoyed that very much indeed.

And don’t miss out on their own Jack Smyth beers, brewed locally. You can try all four on a tasting tray for a tenner. I choose a pint of the IPA, all the beers are on draught, and enjoyed it very much with the dinner. Excellent friendly service here.

James McKenna's 'Ferdia at the Ford'
Following a visit to Kilmainham Gaol  on the following morning, we headed back to the Kemp Sisters café in the Irish Museum of Modern Art. The sisters are well-known for their colourful flavoursome dishes and we enjoyed a couple here in the large basement restaurant. 

My pick was a pepper, onion and brie Quiche with two salads, one apple and beetroot, the other couscous based and that boosted the energy levels for the short walk to the nearby Roe Distillery. And a shot or two of whiskey powered the longer walk back to College Green and then on to The Mont and Monty.

Something different that night with a visit to Olesya’s Wine Bar and Bistro in Exchequer Street. Some 400 wines on the list here so quite a bit of reading. Many are available by the glass with a  choice of sizes, the smaller at 100ml, the large 190ml. So we tried and enjoyed a few.

The wines come from all over the world and, with Olesya originally from Russia, there are a few Russian dishes on the menu. Naturally enough, I picked a couple! A couple of excellent ones, I might add.
Solyanka Soup

Stroganoff
One was the delicious Solyanka Soup. This rich soup came in a large bowl with a variety of very finely shredded smoked meats, ham, and sausages, also olives, a slice of lemon and a dollop of creme fraiche. And a generous amount of delicious bread, nicely heated. Great stuff on a cold and windy night on the streets of Dublin. Eating and drinking in it!

I must admit I didn’t realise that Stroganoff is a dish of Russian origin but here they insist it is. In any event, their Classic Beef Stroganoff version is superb. Back to the Sin Bin, the bar at The Mont, for a bottle of Porterhouse Pale Ale.

The following day, we strolled up to the adjacent park to see Oscar Wilde, before heading off to Heuston to catch the mid-morning train to Cork.


For the latest on the Mont Hotel's reopening, please click here .

Also on this trip:
Hands On Fun during Roe and Co Whiskey Tour

Some Previous Dublin visits



Friday, June 12, 2020

Les Frères Bréchet are busy in the Southern Rhone. Making wine in Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas and now Rasteau.

Les Frères Bréchet are busy in the Southern Rhone.
Making wine in Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas and now Rasteau.
Chateauneuf

The Bréchet brothers, from the Southern Rhone, were the presenters of the latest in the  Zoom series of Liberty Wine masterclasses. Laurent works in Châteauneuf du Pape (Château de Vaudieu, the family flagship) while Julien may be found in Gigondas (Domaine des Bosquets). Liberty MD David Gleave introduced the siblings saying they each had a top estate in their respective appellations, both primarily growing Grenache. “So Gigondas or Chateauneuf, which is better? That’s today’s question.”

But the Bréchets were not to be drawn on that one! Indeed when David asked which wine they’d be having for lunch the reply, a nifty sidestep, was “We love Burgundy!” 
Laurent (left) and Julien

Towards the end, in the Question and Answer session, they were asked which was their favourite from the other brother. No hesitation from Julian: The Cuvée “Val de Dieu” from 2016. It has an extraordinary balance, a wine I would like every day". Laurent opted for Julian’s Le Lieu Dit 2017: The right expression of grenache, even more than the ’16”. So there you are, two good tips for you!

Q: Which region, aside from the Rhone, is best for Grenache?
A: Laurent picked Espana (Priorat) and California. Julien: “The same. But we are in a good place here!”.
Flowering in progress

Another questioner pointed to the tendency of Grenache to be high in alcohol. What other variety would you use to keep the abv down? Cinsault makes a very fine wine and with an abv 1.5% less than Grenache it could be the answer.

The men were sitting in Gigondas for the presentation  and reported that the growing season was going okay, a good period in flowering, the key to make good things. As it stands, all goes well, we’re happy, not late or anything, we are smiling!
Château de Vaudieu

Laurent said he was harvesting earlier and earlier, “Not just because of rising temperatures but to keep acidity. We might lose a little colour but we want to make a wine with personality. The soil, different to Gigondas, makes a difference.” And then he smiled: “as does the winemaker”. Julien said he was helped by being able to harvest a little earlier as compared to Chateauneuf. “Perfect maturity is an aim, we are always seeking the balance. Gigondas tends to have more freshness, while you get more maturity at C-d-P.”

Julian: “When I was younger I used oak but wines were not as expressive as I wanted”. Now he uses big old vats as he doesn’t want to put too much between the consumer and the expression of the terroir. Laurent wants to emphasise the elegance of the wine, so he makes wine with precision and attention to detail.
Domaine des Bosquets

Julien is now in organic conversion and that leads to lower yields and he’s happy with that as, with higher yields, you “can lose the personality". Laurent seeks the happy medium saying that “less is not always better.”

David Gleave asked Julien why he had chosen organic. Julien: “In order to be honest, you have to be clean. The best way to express the terroir is to go organic. Bosquets is a small estate, so not hard to convert. We are also a more isolated vineyard and the neighbours are organic as well. Clean grapes need less intervention in my mind, a good way to be.”

Laurent is not organic but sustainable. “We try to spray the  minimum. No herbicides, reduced sulphites and we limit production.”

And then there’s the style of wine. Julien has learned his terroir. “It's like a mosaic of terroirs, very different, different exposures, different altitude (from 180m to 400m). Each plot must be considered on its own merits.” Fourteen different plots have been designated and are each matured separately. “Blending is now more precise and better”. Indeed, so precise, that in 2019, only four of the 14 were considered good enough to be used. You do hear Julien using “No compromise” quite often.

Laurent said that while the traditional style is still loved by some customers that “we now like to have more elegance, more acidity, better balance. That’s what people like to drink now. If wine is too big, you might start the bottle but not finish. With harmony and acidity, you can enjoy it fully.”

“We are not against tradition,” said Julien. “We are improving on it by being more precise. No compromise in the process and the wine will not be just good, it will be better.”

Laurent is excited about a new project in the Rasteau appellation: “When I saw the plot, I said we’ll make something nice here. The idea is not to go too rich, to go more easy-drinking. It is a small plot, easier to control. We have a good team there and using old oak from the existing vineyard.”

And if you like the Rasteau Vin Deux Naturel (red, white and rancio), as one participant does, then rest assured. “It is still being made in the appellation and we want to restart it in our plot. We work on that. It will take time.” Laurent himself was quite excited about the ambré version of the VDN.




Wednesday, June 10, 2020

Behind the scenes at El Bulli with the men behind the versatile wins of Gallina de Piel

Behind the scenes at El Bulli with the men 
behind the versatile wines of Gallina de Piel
David, in Dublin last year.

David Seijas and Ferran Centelles both worked as sommeliers at the world-renowned El Bulli. Liberty MD Davie Gleave introduced the pair at the latest online masterclass.  “We have been working with David for the last year, since we started distributing his wines, Gallina del Piel. David and Ferran will be talking about their El Bulli experience, talking wine lists, food and wine pairing, service, and working with a team of sommeliers. David will also talk about the transition from sommelier to winemaker. His wines from Gallina de Piel are made with the aim to create a versatile selection from Spain’s gastronomic northern regions; Catalonia, Aragon and Galicia. It should make for a very interesting discussion”.

The pair met at El Bulli and David remembers his first day. “I was 19 years old and the first thing I was told was there were 55 different types of glass here. And that first day was spent learning about how to correctly use those 55 glasses. It was crazy!”

Ferran
Ferran, like David a sommelier in the famous restaurant, also had some amazing figures, like the two million applications annually for seats. With the restaurant closing for six months every year, it meant only 8,000 of those applications would be successful!

The wine list ran to over 1,600 bottles with Burgundy, Bordeaux, sparkling and Spanish wines highlighted. “It was a friendly place not a very formal service, but the wine menu was classic”.

Ferran continued: "There were over 10,000 bottles a year consumed, about 1.5 bottles per person per visit. There were 40/50 preparations (dishes) on the menu. David: ”With all those dishes, the pace was fast, kept up over 4.5 to 5 hours”.

Ferran again: “We tried to slow the drinking, to make people relax and not to drink too quickly. It was part of our job to encourage them to take it step by step. We had to pay attention, it was intense. ” And he revealed that the very best bottles weren’t opened with the food. “They were opened after the coffee, when people were relaxed, not in a rush.”

While some 65% of the wines chosen at El Bulli were based on the recommendations of the somms (four on duty per day), the duo admitted that food pairing wasn’t a strong point there, especially with the huge number of “courses” flying out from the kitchen.

They developed an electronic wine menu “quite cool and revolutionary for its time”. It was very quick and very easy to use and people could choose online from it.

All the info and stats from one year was studied and became a guide for the following year. You can see from the chart they shared that white wines was most popular with 30% and both men were disappointed that Sherry could only manage 5%. Ferran: “We don’t see why Sherry is not more appreciated.”

David said the El Bulli experience, with 6 months open, 6 months closed, "was like having two different lives in one year". “Fifteen hours working per day and then the time off at a different pace entirely.” “A time to do research,” according to Ferran.

And that research continued when El Bulli closed for good in 2011. David built up his wine experience by travelling all around Spain, checking vineyards, varieties, talking to the people on the ground; other activities included teaching on the subject and writing wine books.

“Now, I’m bottling what I learned from all the people I’ve met over the last ten years.” Understanding the menu is part of that, the tapas culture in Spain, the fact that the same place can have fish and meat and more on the menu. So he sought to make wines that are “dynamic” and “versatile”, wines that work across the menu. "All the chefs from El Bulli now have their own restaurants and I wanted to sell to them.”

Both agreed that El Bulli may have been the best restaurant in the world but was probably the worst for pairings. “We weren’t good at that,” said Ferran.  David added it was very difficult to pair in such a varied menu though there were some outstanding matchings. And so wine and food pairing became an obsession with them.
The Gallina pyramid

It was at El Bulli that David learned that you need a versatile wine and he found inspiration in the work of Jennie Cho Lee MW and founder of the Asian Palate. She emphasises “versatility and drinkability”.

So David’s wines are made to “respect the cuisine, respect the gastronomy, repect the food”. All this is important. “Freshness and fruit-driven is important, always with local grapes.” And he is now working on single vineyard wines, the top of his personal pyramid. The red will be from very old Carignan, the white from a local grape in Tenerife, both will be very limited in supply.

Gallina de Piel Mimetic Calatayud (DO)  is his “entry level" red which, like the white, I have absolutely enjoyed and recommend.

It’s a bright juicy Garnacha (98%) - David is a major fan of this grape - with an engaging freshness. Colour is a mid to a dark ruby. Dark fruits with a touch of herb (marjoram), feature in the aromas. First thing I noticed on the palate is the balance, no extremes in this graph, and that perfect harmony continues between the delicious fruit flavour and acidity. A touch of spice adds interest through to the lengthy finish. Elegant and fresh, this is Very Highly Recommended.

Gallina de Piel, `Ikigall` Penedès (DO) 2018 is the white.
Eye-catching labels.

Mid straw is the colour. Fragrant for sure, floral and citrus (lime). Immediately you note that tingly feel at the tip of your tongue, a feel that soon spreads, right through to crisp finish. Citrus flavours are subtly influential in this fresh and rather elegant white. Highly Recommended.

Xarel-lo is a light-skinned grape from Catalonia, northeastern Spain, and is one of the region's most widely planted varieties. It is perhaps best known for its role in sparkling Cava. The other grapes included here are Malvasia (10%) and Muscat of Alexandria (5%).

Now I have to start climbing his pyramid!

After a very informative and often humourous presentation, the Q&A at the end was necessarily brief. There was a question about how different varieties may deal with climate change and in the answer Ferran called Tempranillo “a stupid grape”! “Garnacha is a very clever plant, can adapt to temperatures, knows how to deal with high temperatures, and shuts down. But Tempranillo stays working, a stupid grape! Garnacha is more for the future.”