A Quart of Ale± #60. On the craft journey. A session of Cider with Cockagee, Viking and Bordelet.

A Quart of Ale± #60

On the craft journey with a session of Cider

Cockagee Cider Piorraí Irish Sparkling Perry 6.00%, 375ml bottle, Pop-Up Wine Shop at The Grainstore

Perhaps the most striking aspect on seeing this Irish sparkling Perry as it is poured into the glass is the myriad of bubbles streaming upwards through the light gold colour.  The aromas are certainly reticent, a barely detectable floral note. The palate is rather special though, a classic dry Perry, refreshing and crisp, and packed with flavour but not over-packed. Just spot-on as it the case with all of Mark Jenkinson’s ciders that I’ve tasted over the past few years. If you see Cockagee or The Cider Mill or Jenkinson on the label, don’t hesitate to use that credit card.

While there was a gap of a few days between tasting this and the Bordelet Poiré, I’m inclined to give the nod to County Meath. But I’d have no problem with a rematch.

The Piorraí is made from hand-picked Irish grown French Perry pear varieties ‘Plant de blanc’ and ‘Poire de cloche’. These varieties are among the most highly sought after in Brittany and Normandy for making Fine Perry, or Poiré, as it is known in France. 

These apples, like many cider apples, are far from the prettiest and you wouldn’t want to eat them but ciderists like Mark patiently work their magic and turn the ugly pears into elegant perries that stand out in the crowd. 

Enjoy chilled on its own or with strong cheeses, charcuterie, white meats and shellfish dishes.

They say: Cockagee – Our somewhat unusual name is a revival of the once famous Irish Cider Cockagee first mentioned in 1664. Originating from the Irish language ‘Cac a gheidh’ which translates as ‘goose turds’ and refers to the yellow/green colour of the fruit from the Cockagee apple tree. In the same way that ‘Duck Egg Blue’ is a colour descriptive, ‘Goose Turd Green’ was once a common colour, although I doubt you’d find it on a Farrow & Ball paint swatch nowadays. 

Distributors Le Caveau: “Mark is growing 120+ varieties of apple across his 12 acre orchard located near the town of Slane. Apples are grown without the use of chemicals and are hand-picked.”

Viking Hop It Craft Cider 5.5%, 500ml bottle, Pop-Up Wine Shop at The Grainstore.

Hop It is aptly named as Viking use a trio of hops - Cascade, Amarillo and Citra - in this cider. They may not be the first to do so; I think Stonewell (who’ve been using El Dorado in the superb Tawny cider that they started producing in 2014) may have that honour.

Viking say: Hop It is a blend of Katy (dessert apple) and Vicky (new bittersweet early cider apple) apples. The blend needs the fruitiness of Katy and the bitterness of Vicky to create harmony with Cascade, Amarillo, and Citra hops, thus lending tropical flavours to this cider. Suitable for Coeliac and Vegan Friendly. Hop It is ideal for people who like the taste of Hop beer but cannot tolerate gluten.

Hugely respected cider-maker, Davy Uprichard of Tempted, has a very different view of Katy. On an internet forum early this year, organised by BeoirFest, his thoughts were clear: “ Katy is an abomination - I don’t use it all”. Different strokes for different folks!

Colour is quite a light gold and there’s no shortage of bubbles in the slightly hazy glass. The first impression is of tartness, crab apple style. It boasts a good dry finish as well. But is terrifically refreshing and I can see it doing very well indeed with the recommended pairings of BBQ food, smoked fish, Asian delights, pizza, Irish farmhouse cheeses - the list goes on and on. “Hop It must be a foodie’s dream! Apart from enjoying with food, pour Hop It cider slowly into a tall glass and savour the delights of a craft cider with the treat of a hop taste. Enjoy.” 

While the hops play a role in the balance, you’ll also notice, though not very obviously, traces in the flavours and, a little more prominently, in the aromas.

Established by entrepreneur David Dennison in Waterford, Viking Irish Drinks is sold online and in a wide range of independent off-licences and supermarkets, bars, and restaurants. Since May 2021, Viking Irish Drinks is part of SuperValu’s prestigious Food Academy Programme.

Cider Makers Tip: Viking Irish Drinks at Dennison’s Farm was set up as a company in 2017, with cider production commencing in 2019. At the heart of the company is three unique craft cider styles, based on old farm recipes, including Medium Dry Orchard Cuvée, the immensely popular Harvest Blush and Ireland’s first Hop flavoured cider, Hop-IT.

Viking Harvest Blush Craft Cider 5.5%, 500ml bottle, Pop-Up Wine Shop at The Grainstore.

The Harvest Blush gives a clearer mid-gold colour in the glass than does the Hop It. Plenty of bubbles here also. And Katy too! It is one of two varieties, the other being James Grieve (also a dessert apple), used to make it.

Both are usually in harvested in August. Harvest Blush is fermented slowly on its natural yeasts for up to six months, and then “we add our soft fruit juice to create a light blush and adding fruitiness of the berries, yet importantly retaining the style of the cider. Our bottling condition allows us to create a light natural sparkling cider, which is a good alternative to a sparkling wine.”

So is it sweet? Not overly so. Might be fairer to say it is much less bitter than the Hop It and no doubt a good match for fresh strawberries, raspberries and fruit pavlova. Viking also recommend seafood / shellfish, also good with pork loin and roast chicken. “Versatile, this cider will compliment most food from starters to dessert!

The Blush is softer, easy-drinking. Hop It is known as a hard cider in the US; harder-going perhaps but worth the effort.

They say: We recommend Harvest Blush to be served chilled at 6-8 c, and it can be served as an aperitif, like a good Prosecco but lower in alcohol, which is an excellent choice for receptions / weddings and parties. Can be bottled in Champagne style bottles for events (pre-ordered only).

And they also have a Viking Irish cocktail!

Pour 3 parts Harvest Blush cider to 1 part Viking Irish Blackcurrant Liqueur over ice. Add a slice of orange and stir gently. Serve with party straws. Enjoy.

Viking Irish Drinks derives from orchards in the Barony of Gaultier, East Waterford, near the estuary of the three sisters - the Barrow, Nore and Suir rivers - where the Vikings sailed and conquered cities, towns and villages.

Eric Bordelet Poiré, Normandy, 5.00%, 33cl bottle, Pop-Up Wine Shop at The Grainstore

This Poiré, as the name indicates, is a pear cider and is one of the best ciders, apple or pear, that you are likely to come across. Colour is a pale gold and then follow aromas and flavours of the orchards. It is on the dry side, a delicious thirst quencher and, with its clean acidity, importers Le Caveau indicate that it is a “great food pairing for scallops, savoury crepes and all manner of salads, delicate fruit based desserts or even cheese. Versatile, refreshing and delicious!”. No arguing with that.

It is biodynamic and made in the traditional manner from old orchards that have never been sprayed. In the 1980s, Eric was a well known sommelier at Paris’s Michelin 3-star Arpège restaurant but his native Normandy and its famous ciders were tempting him back. He thought he could add to their reputation by applying his wine knowledge and so he came to take over his family’s Chateau de Hauteville and extended the orchards. Now he is on the short-list of the world’s great cider makers. Check him out!

Th label tells us this sparkling thirst-quenching fruity flavoured is produced from the  “living and stony soil of the Coteaux de Massif Armoricain”, the production “concerned with your sensory pleasures and your health”. Reckon I’ll drink to that. Wait, I already did. And will again.

Very Highly Recommended from Bordeaux and Alsace.

Very Highly Recommended from Bordeaux and Alsace

Bois de Rolland Vieilles Vignes Bordeaux Supérieur (AC) 2018, 14% 

€18.35 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Beautiful bright cherry red colour on this blend of Merlot (mostly) and Cabernet Sauvignon. Quite an intense bouquet of darker fruit, a hint or two of spice (including vanilla). It makes an immediate and impressive impression on the palate. Harmonious for sure, rich and ample with a lengthy finish. With juicy flavours of cassis and cherry, this is easy drinking and Very Highly Recommended

Perhaps because there is so much of it, Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur are often, sometimes lazily, shunted into the realm of second-rate wines. Just look a little harder, find a trustworthy importer and a producer such as we have here and the consumer can find both quality and value for the money.

They say: Château Bois de Rolland 'Vieilles Vignes' is a Bordeaux Superieur that tastes really honest, made with care, with a definite sense of place. When Bordeaux are made that way, they are quite irresistible. Gorgeous black fruit, meaty hints on the nose, very subtle oak presence, perfectly integrated, ripe, fleshy on the palate with cool undertones which adds to its drinkability and saline touches in the end.  

The property has a wonderful history and pedigree. Situated just 17 kilometres from Saint Emilion on the Coubeyrac plateau of clay and limestone – the blend that helps to express some of the best wines in Bordeaux. The property became renowned for its vines, cereal production, and cattle rearing. Now just a winery, the perfect exposure of a plateau with south-facing vines upon ancient sedimentary soils allow the Geromin family to produce fabulous wines.

Serve this multi-award winner at 16 to 18 degrees after decanting. Red meats, game, grilled meats, cheese, chocolate desserts are the suggested pairings.

Is there oak? Yes indeed. Vinification and aging details: Mechanical harvest, traditional fermentation at 25 ° C., maceration for 2 weeks at 30 ° C. Aging in vats on staves medium heat and medium heat plus for 8 months. Packaging: Bottled at the Château.

Binner Cuvée Béatrice Pinot Noir Alsace (AOP) 2016, 13.5%

€39.75 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

I removed the glass closure and poured, its deep pink (rosé, if you like) filling the bottom of the glass. Concentrated red fruit aromas rise up. Those juicy red fruits flavours (mainly strawberry, cherry) engage you as the juice spreads across the palate. Don’t judge a wine by its colour - this has quite a backbone, no wilting rose. Tannins are smooth and there’s a long and satisfying finish. A generous unfiltered Pinot Noir that stands out from the crowd and Very Highly Recommended.

Good acidity too and that makes it an excellent food wine. Recommended pairings are: Filet-mignon, cold meats and terrine with friends, with a white meat, or simply to accompany the cheese plate. Serve at 18 degrees. The label discloses that this organic wine has spent 11 months on lees in traditional large oak foudres (casks).

This Pinot Noir from Alsace was, for me, one of the stars of the Le Caveau portfolio tasting in Cork in March 2019, and indeed my wine of the year. Heartened by that tasting and also the words of Jean Frédéric Hugel (at a Cork tasting) that Pinot Noir from the Alsace is now  “incomparable to what it was twenty years ago”, I put it on my buying list and didn’t wait long before giving the wine an extended “trial”. I wasn’t disappointed.

I put it on a recent buying list as well and no disappointment this time - a year for so later. Every bit as good, complex and delicious, the perfect companion for the dishes above along with the likes of roasted chicken, and crispy pork. 

Christian Binner is the wine-maker and this wine is named for his sister. The Binners own nine hectares in total, with only six planted to vine and the estate has been chemical-free for over two decades. They harvest in October, later on average than any of their neighbours, with patience that allows for fully ripe fruit and resulting complexity of flavour.

A Couple Of Excellent French Wines To Consider, from Burgundy to Bouche du Rhone

A Couple Of Excellent French Wines To Consider, from Burgundy to Bouche du Rhone

Cowboy of the Rhone Delta

Domaine Ambroise Lettre d’Eloïse Chardonnay  Couteaux Bourguignons (AC) 2018, 13%

€19.40 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Light gold is the colour of this Chardonnay from Burgundy. Citrus and floral notes in the aromas. A citrus-y tingle as it hits the palate, an excellent acidity.  This fresh and lively wine, a wonderful drop indeed, is very well made and Very Highly Recommended. The wine is fermented in 1-, 2- and 3-year-old 400-l oak barrels, where it stays for a period of 10 months and we benefit beautifully because of it. The wine is not fined and only lightly filtered. The fruit for this excellent Chardonnay, one of around nine produced by Domaine Ambroise, comes from young vines.

 

Le Caveau say: Harvested manually, neither filtered nor fined, the wines are classic and expressive with distinct terroir-influenced personalities.

Maison Ambroise is a long established, small négociant house, who operates on 21 hectares of their own vineyards and purchase grapes from another 3. They own vines in Prémeaux, Nuits-St-Georges, Ladoix, Meursault, the hill of Corton, Vosne-Romanée (with some Grand Cru Echezeaux!), Gevrey-Chambertin, Vougeot, Beaune and as far as Saint-Romain. Bertrand Ambroise has been a key figure in the development of the estate and this wine is named for his grand-daughter.

Some official info from the area: This appellation Coteaux Bourguignons, created in 2011 covers red, white, and rosé wines, grown over four départements. The Coteaux Bourguignons appellation covers wines that can be blended or come from a single varietal, and which can use some more old-fashioned varietals. The word rosé can be replaced by the word Clairet.

This Bourgogne blanc is very adaptable at the table. It makes it a delicate and tasty pre-dinner drink while its wide-ranging and persistent aromatic spectrum (thanks to the Chardonnay grape) makes it a team player in the kitchen, especially with fish and shellfish. Its native power enables it to prevail over onion tarts as well as over a wide variety of soft and hard cheeses such as Brie, Vacherin, Saint-Nectaire, Mont-d’Or, Beaufort, Comté and all varieties of Gruyère.

Serving temperature: 11 to 13°C.

Saint-Cyrgues, Saint-Cirice 'Syrah - Grenache’ VdP du Gard (IGP) 2019, 13.5%

€14.85 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny 

Cherry red in colour, this blend from Costiers de Nîmes is produced with 50% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 10% Marselan and 10% Merlot. Cherry and raspberry in the aromas. 'Saint Cirice' is the estate's entry level red and is rich and a little spicy. A good finish too.

Costières de Nîmes is in the Rhone delta and has those rounded pebbles (decent sized stones!), indeed the terroir is very close to that of Côtes du Rhone. It is well known over the decades for producing good wines and is one place in France where you can get exceptional value and this Highly Recommended bottle is an excellent illustration!

Le Caveau sum it up well: It will have broad appeal and would be a perfect choice for a house wine, or for any occasion where the need for a pleasurable drop and a keen price are essential.

St Cyrgues is an estate with vineyards along the southern slopes of the Costières de Nîmes which has a history of vine cultivation dating back centuries, and it was bought in 1991 by a young Swiss couple, Evelyne and Guy de Mercurio, and is run along organic lines.

Quite a versatile wine at the table. Suggestions noted are to serve it with wild mushroom risotto, gardiane ( a local stew made from smoked bacon, black olives and garlic) or a chunk of tomme cheese. Should perform well when matching up with roasted or barbecued meats so would do well during your Sunday lunch.

Nimes is the major city in the area in the eastern Languedoc, the city where denim (de Nimes) was invented. If you go to see the local bullfights (spectacular action fests where the athletes are more at risk than the bulls) you’ll note that the people involved with the bulls and the horses (paraded through the town before the spectacle), are kitted out in

denim just like your cowboy.

Under Pont du Gard - definitely not a cowboy

A Royal Red Wine From The Queen of Teroldego

A Royal Red Wine From The Queen of Teroldego

Foradori Teroldego Vigneti Delle Dolomiti (IGT) 2018, 12.5%

€30.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

After an active day in the mountains of Trentino, perhaps trekking in the vast Naturpark Drei Zinnen (Three Peaks Park) or skiing in Cortina d´Ammpezzo, it’s time to replenish your reserves. And here a favourite at the table is a bowl of giant canederli (bread and flour dumplings), which are laden with smoked bacon chunks and served in a warm broth. Local breads and cheeses are also on the table, dispatched before you tackle the filling polenta and sausage based dish known as Smacafam. Apples will feature in the dessert course, perhaps their version of strudel.

And all the while your enjoyable companion is the Foradori Teroldego, a superb wine of the region made by the experienced Elisabetta Foradori. She is indeed regarded by many authorities as the queen of Teroldego.

“It has beautiful colour and rich fruit, but sometimes the tannins can be a little drying. You need to hold on to it for a while or pair it with gamey foods, but the flavour is unique. And you won’t find it anywhere else in the world.” That was young Elisabetta Foradori speaking to Vino Italio back in 2002 who even then considered her as the leading producer of Teroldego.

Regina Elisabetta

In 2016, The Modern History of Italian Wine honoured her as one of the leading producers in the renaissance from the 1960s onwards. She led the local change from pergolas to Guyot (lower yield, more quality), practiced the “diligent use of small oak barrels” (to tackle the international market), and then her embracing of biodynamic cultivation and her adoption of the amphora in “this land where Regina Elisabetta (Queen Elizabeth) reigns” further enhanced her wines.

A handy base in Drei Zinnen (Three Peaks Park) in the Dolomites,
about 3 hours from the Foradori vineyards.

Even the 8th Edition of the World Wine Atlas concurs: “the unrivalled queen of fine fully ripe Teroldego Rotaliano is Elisabetta Foradori. Her improved clones, and experiments with fermenting in amphoras, impresses her clients more than they do the authorities, so she sells them as IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti.” 

This dark ruby aromatic wine is indeed a gem, light in alcohol but full of flavour, a distinguished part of the Trentino gastronomy. About two months back, we got a great idea of how the wine and food go together thanks to a Tasting the Dolomites meal (Take Out of course in the current circumstances) organised by Cork’s leading wine-bar, Latitude 51, as part of their own deliciously defiant response to setbacks over the past two years (including those Covid 19 restrictions). The wine itself is pure, precise and elegant and Very Highly Recommended.

We nibbled on Speck (smoked cured ham) and Taleggio cheese for a start. Then moved on to the hearty Zuppa all’Orzo (pearl barley), eating and drinking in that bowl. I had been a little wary of the dumplings having been very disappointed with a series of Northern European dumplings a few years back. But these, packed with herbs and Speck, were in a different class altogether. Then on to another highlight, the Smacafam, a sausage and polenta pie, a hearty rustic type of pizza, full of flavour and topped with delicious cheese and that meaty sausage was just superb.

Speck (via Pixabay)

Then time for the finalé, after a decent pause! Apples are abundant in Trentino and L’Atitude included their take on an Apple Strudel, a superb take indeed, enhanced with a dab or two of crème fraîche. They even included a digestif, some prunes soaked (deluged!) in Grappa to bring the curtain down on an excellent insight into the area.

Been in that area just once myself, on a day trip from Austria, and remember having the best ever Spaghetti Carbonara in a high altitude restaurant in or near the Naturpark Drei Zinnen (Three Peaks Park) in the Dolomites and then enjoying a stroll around a nearby lake (in pic above) under some awesome peaks.

Two Heartily Recommended Wines. A Pinot Blanc from Alsace, a Sangiovese from Montepulciano

Two Heartily Recommended Wines. A Pinot Blanc from Alsace, a Sangiovese from Montepulciano

Meyer-Fonné Pinot Blanc Vieilles Vignes Alsace (AC) 2018, 12.5%

€20.65 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Seductive aromas of pear, peach and almond announce this beautiful pale straw coloured Pinot Blanc from Meyer-Fonné of the Alsace. A touch of sweetness, also on the nose, is found too on the palate, where white fruit, rich and fresh and smoky, is surrounded by a refreshing minerality. Precision, depth, purity all combine here. Delicious and moreish, with a very clean finish, this is Very Highly Recommended. Very good value too by the way.

Wine Folly says it will match up well with soft cheeses, salads with cream dressings and flaky fish (eg cod). Personally, I think it would have not problem with salmon or trout.

Le Caveau: Pinot Blanc Vieilles Vignes comes from a plot of old vines, it acts like Pinot Gris on the nose — rich, oily apricot and pear fruit— but the touch of white pepper and taste of freshly squeezed oranges is classic Pinot Blanc. A house pour at a number of Ireland's Michelin starred restaurants over the past 15 years. A sure fire hit each and every bottle opened.

Félix Meyer himself has come in for high praise.

"Félix Meyer is one of the more ambitious and successful young vignerons of Alsace.” Wine Advocate.

“ ... Félix Meyer still has humility, still has a sense of wonder, and is still capable of self-criticism. He is a seeker and a perfectionist. He is a terroirist, and when he speaks of a granitic soil, the wine in your glass tastes of it.”
Kermit Lynch, US importer.

No chemical fertiliser is used in the running of the vineyard, “only compost we make ourselves using raw materials derived from organic farming. Calcium and magnesian limestone is spread each year on the granitic soil terroirs to prevent acidification.”

Innocenti Rosso di Montepulciano (DOC) 2015, 13.5%, 

€19.35 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Light and bright ruby colour. Gloriously aromatic, with cherry and plum to the fore, forest fruits and herbal notes in the mix as well. It is medium to full-bodied; that warm fruit is there, some spice too, a lick of wood, really well balanced. Fine-grained tannins noticeable on a long and very dry finish. With a little more weight than your typical Tuscan red, this is easy-drinking and Very Highly Recommended.

I think we’ve all been confused at one time or another by Montepulciano on an Italian wine bottle. It is the name of a grape and of a town in Italy. According to Wine-Searcher.com the grape was named after the town and was once widely grown there.

Nowadays, the grape has found another home in Abruzzo (Abruzzo is a large area on the east coast), hence Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.  In the late 20th and early 21st century, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo earned a reputation as being one of the most widely exported DOC classed wine in Italy (Wikipedia). 

Our wine comes from the town of Montepulciano. This is in Tuscany, in the province of Sienna, and is one of the most attractive hill towns in the area.The main grape grown here is Sangiovese. Only the very best grapes are used for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The others are used for Rosso di Montepulciano. The Vino Nobile has the big reputation but the simpler Rosso is no mean wine either as our example indicates.

Importers Le Caveau tell this Rosso di Montepulciano is a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo Nero and Mammolo grapes.

A Super Spanish White Plus A Burgundy Blend (yes, a blend!)

A Super Spanish White Plus A Burgundy Blend (yes, a blend!)

Menade Verdejo Ecologica Vino De La Tierra De Castilla Y Leon (DO) 2019, 13%

€ 18.35 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

This Verdejo from the heart of Spain comes in a light gold robe. White fruit aromas (pear) and some floral elements in the inviting aromas. And on the palate, the welcome continues as you get that lovely fresh fruit (nectarine, grapefruit, passionfruit) plus a refreshing acidity, harmonious all the way to the excellent finish. Very Highly Recommended.

This versatile wine is ideal for a tapas evening and I’ve certainly enjoyed it on a few excursions, The Gallery in Westport one such occasion that I remember well. Luckliy I had a bottle on hand the other night when our dinner was a fabulous box of Tapas from Cask. And the Verdejo excelled itself across most of the “courses”. I didn’t chance it against the Chocolate Empanadas but it stood out when paired with Monkfish Croquettes, Prawn & Chorizo Stew and especially with the Lamb Kofta (with Raita sauce). A very impressive display indeed.

Brothers and sister Marco, Richard and Alejandra Sanz run this certified organic estate in Rueda, South of Valladolid. The estate has 160 ha in production (including 30 ha of pre-phylloxera vines). Hand-harvesting, natural yeasts and low yields with minimal intervention in the cellar is how the trade-mark Menade style of pure and expressive wines is created.

Rueda is one of the DOs within the larger Castilla Y Leon region and here the Menade estate is always looking for ways to help the land and the environment. Their mobile tree project is one: “Our on-going mobile tree project consists of towing a variety of different tree species into different vineyard parcels. Planted on trailers some 3 meters high, the objective is to see how they adjust to their individual destinations, where we monitor them to assess where and how their eventual presence might prove most beneficial on a potentially permanent basis.”

Domaine Lacour Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (AOP) 2017, 12%, 

€18.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Burgundy Passetoutgrains is a regional appellation that can be harvested all over Burgundy. This is one of the few exceptions for blending grape varieties in Burgundy: instead of using only Pinot Noir the wine here will be composed of Pinot Noir and Gamay, in proportions chosen by the wine producer (at least one third of Pinot Noir). 

While this blend has been around for hundreds of years, it rarely makes it out of France. Punch, in 2017, put is near anonymity down to the fact that many winemakers still keep back a good portion of their production to drink with family and friends. And it may be harder too get in the future; , the production of Passetougrain has drastically decreased mainly because Pinot Noir grapes are more profitable in the area. So get it while you can. A few bottles would be perfect for the summer. But do look for a more recent vintage. Highly Recommended.

Colour is a light to mid ruby. Aromas are insistent, mainly red fruits, especially strawberry. The Gamay is credited with contributing the red fruit aromas. It is light and smooth on the palate, rounded fruit flavours abound, tannins are smooth and the light and delicious wine finishes long. Easy-drinking and well priced.

Serve at about 16 degrees. Made to be enjoyed young, it is an everyday wine for snacks and picnics and its light and fruity qualities means it is also a great accompaniment to cold cuts and grilled meats.

Check out this Rhone Double!

Check out this Rhone Double!

When you enjoy a glass of Côtes Du Rhône, either in a sunny back-garden or a warm sitting room, you'll hardly be thinking of a frosty night. But frost has had a major influence on the wine story in the area. In 1956, the famous Mistral Wind (still an influence here), battered the region for three weeks, reaching a velocity of over one hundred kilometres per hour and dropping to a temperature of minus 15 degrees centigrade.

The majority of the region's olive trees suffered serious frost damage but the vines resisted so well that the majority of the local farmers decided to turn over primarily to vine cultivation.

Domaine Chaume-Arnaud Vinsobres (AC) 2016, 14.5%

€24.80  64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Dark ruby is the colour of this Vinsobres. But it is the aromas that make the first big impression. “Rich and profound” according to importers Le Caveau. Rich for sure. “Takes your breath away” is the verdict of a taster here. But nothing alien in the mix, just lots of dark fruit (plum, cherry).

And the palate is also a winner. No shortage of that fruit, hints too of liquorice plus a good wash of spice as well. Full-bodied and juicy while the finish is fresh and elegant with supple tannins. This very drinkable and vivid biodynamic wine is Very Highly Recommended.

The blend is 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Cinsault. Until 1956, olive trees outnumbered vines in the towns of Vinsobres and St Maurice, but one night in February of that year, all the olive trees perished by frost. After that, vines came to dominate and the area’s previous diversification began to wane. Chaume-Arnaud though are working their way back to the old model and so you’ll see olive trees, cereals and tomatoes keeping the vines company on the estate, run now by Valérie Chaume-Arnaud and her husband Phillipe and their son Thibault

The altitude, between 200 to 450m, and the cool wind from the nearby Alps (the Pontias) keeps the temperature lower than the neighbouring villages and contributes to the natural freshness and complexity of the wines. 

Vinsobres wines owe their richness to the assembly of the qualities of richly varied, complementary terroirs. The appellation's soil here is very stony, red to brown in colour, and their warmth allows the vines to flourish early with a high concentration of grapes. Made mainly of Grenache and Syrah, they produce dark red wines with a complex, harmonious nose with spiced flavours that are suitable for ageing. 

Vinsobres is one of nine cru villages in the Southern Rhone of which Chateauneuf du Pape is the most famous; others include Gigondas and Vacqueyras, Tavel (for rosé) and Beaume de Venise (for Vin Doux Naturel).

Domaine Chaume-Arnaud Côtes Du Rhône (AOC) 2018, 14.5%

€19.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

This Côtes Du Rhône has a dark ruby colour. Aromas are rather intense, dark fruit prominent. On the palate it is fruity and juicy, excellent acidity too. A very friendly wine, one you really want to carry on with. A very good example of the AOC and Highly Recommended.

The fruit for Côtes Du Rhône (CDR) comes from a much wider area, spreading over 170 communes. By contrast the CDR Villages area covers about 100 communes. The exclusive Crus, including the Vinsorbes above, number 19, Cairanne the most recent to be elevated.

The grapes for this Chaume-Arnaud are Grenache (60%), Syrah (20%), Cinsault (20%), and are harvested by hand having been grown on stony ground. Grenache offers fruitiness, warmth and body. Syrah donates a hint of spice as well as depth of colour. Cinsault brings finesse to the party and is ideal for making young fruity wines.

The family have eschewed the use of all chemical and synthetic products, respecting instead the rhythms of nature to intensify the life of the soil and maintain a harmonious equilibrium. And it shows in this very drinkable, very digestible wine.

Serving temp recommended is about 14 degrees. Try with venison and wild boar. You won’t find these everywhere but do check out Ballinwillin Farm in North Cork - they also have an online shop.