A Right Royal Bottle of Teroldego. Tasting the Dolomites with L’Atitude 51

A Right Royal Bottle of Teroldego. 

Tasting the Dolomites with L’Atitude 51.

“It has beautiful colour and rich fruit, but sometimes the tannins can be a little drying. You need to hold on to it for a while or pair it with gamey foods, but the flavour is unique. And you won’t find it anywhere else in the world.” That was Elisabetta Foradori speaking to Vino Italio back in 2002 when she was already  “considered as the leading producer of Teroldego”.

And it was Foradori’s Teroldego that was the centrepiece of last weekend’s Latitude Click & Collect offering. Latitude owner Beverley expands:  “As L’Atitude is all about exploring wine and trying something new, our take-out boxes have wine at its centre, designed to bring you on a journey and discover something different. And we match tastes to the wine based on our travels and experience of food and wine pairing.” 

Monte Cristallo in the Dolomites, about 3 hours from Foradori.
 Wouldn't mind repeating that 2004 trip!

“This week we take you to Trentino/Alto Adige in the Dolomites to sample Foradori Teroldego a delicious red wine made from a local grape variety by the "Queen of Teroldego’, biodynamic winemaker Elisabetta Foradori. Based at altitude in Mezzolombardo in the shadow of the towering Dolomite mountains, Elisabetta has been leading the way in biodynamic winemaking in Trentino for years with her visionary approach, making wines that are respectful of the soil and the local grapes she wants to honour, and using the techniques that are less invasive, and more holistic. We love everything about her wines and this Teroldego is the winery’s flagship wine. It’s fresh and pure with vivid raspberry and cherry and a supple, fresh crunchiness on the finish. Delicious! “ And so it was. 

Quite a bit has changed since 2002. Foradori has embraced Guyot instead of pergolas, her "diligent use” of small oak barrels (according to the History of Modern Italian Wine), her adoption of amphoras and her embracing of biodynamic cultivation have all improved her wines. The tannins in her Teroldego are not so drying now and the finish is longer than way back then. 

A superb wine choice by L’Attitude. And the food wasn’t bad either! Beverley: “As usual we pair tastes from the region that will bring out the flavours in the wine. So this week’s tastes will take a little of the best that Trentino and South Tyrol has to offer and will include a polenta and sausage based dish known as Smacafam, Canederli (a type of dumpling), local breads, cheese and charcuterie, as well as something sweet. The tastes are designed as an aperitif or sharing platter for people to experience different flavours with each sip of wine. There will be an element of finishing at home, to make the experience more enjoyable and bring your kitchen alive with the smells of the mountains.”

     

This dark ruby aromatic wine is indeed a gem, light in alcohol but full of flavour, a distinguished part of the Trentino gastronomy, as so well illustrated by the Latitude 51 kitchen, the current Takeout series a part of their defiant response to setbacks over the past two years (including Covid 19 restrictions). The wine itself is pure, precise and elegant and the weekly experience is Very Highly Recommended.

 

While the wine is the star, the food element is also top notch and you won’t go hungry! We nibbled on Speck (smoked cured ham) and Taleggio cheese for a start. Then moved on to the hearty Zuppa all’Orzo (pearl barley soup), eating and drinking in that bowl. I had been a little wary of the dumplings having been very disappointed with a series of Northern European dumplings a few years back. But these, packed with herbs and Speck, were in a different class altogether. Then on to another highlight, the Smacafam, a sausage and polenta pie, a hearty rustic type of pizza, full of flavour and topped with delicious cheese and that meaty sausage was just superb.

Smacafam - a deliciously filling part of the meal

Then time for the finalé, after a decent pause! Apples are abundant in Trentino and L’Atitude included their take on an Apple Strudel, a superb take indeed, enhanced with a dab or two of crème fraîche. They even included a digestif, some prunes soaked (deluged!) in Grappa to bring the curtain down on an excellent insight into the area.

Been up there once myself, on a day trip from Austria, and remember having the best ever Spaghetti Carbonara in a high altitude restaurant in or near the vast Naturpark Drei Zinnen (Three Peaks Park) in the Dolomites and then enjoying a stroll around a nearby lake under some awesome peaks.

This is the poster for L'Atitude's offer for the coming weekend, another very tempting one!

Beaujolais and Picpoul de Pinet. Two Well Recommended Examples.

Beaujolais and Picpoul de Pinet.

Two Well Recommended Examples

Roux “Domaine de la Plaigne’ Beaujolais-Villages (DOP) 2017, 13%

€17.90 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

This Gamay, from a small family run vineyard, has a mid to dark ruby colour. Aromas are quite intense with berries (raspberries, red currants and black currants in the mix) prominent. The palate is fruity and round, all in harmony right through to the persistent finish. Nothing unexpected really and the importer’s description sums it up very well indeed: “Delicious, gives simple, but immense pleasure in a typical good Beaujolais fashion.” Highly Recommended.

The Roux owned Domaine de la Plaigne covers more than 15 hectares in the commune of Régnié-Durette, right in the heart of the Beaujolais wine region. Wine-growers father and son, Gilles and Cécile, represent the 4th generation, and since 2014 their son Victorien has joined them on the estate. They all get name-checked on the bottle.

In Brief:

Grape: 100% Gamay

Character: fruity and harmonious

Ideal for all occasions from aperitif to cheese. Serve at 14 degrees.

Winemakers: Gilles, Cécile and Victorien Roux.

Vines: Average age - 65 years

Soil: Sand/Granite

Serve with: Lyonnaise salad, prepared pork products, poultry, leg of lamb, entrecote steak with Beaujolais sauce.

Montredon Picpoul de Pinet (AOP) 2019, 13%

 €13.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Crystal clear but with attractive strong green/gold highlights. That’s the “colour scheme” of this Picpoul from the designated area along the shores of the Med. Aromas are apple and pear, peach and lime. Made 100% from the Picpoul grape, which translates as “stings the lip”, it is known for its high acidity. But the grape has much more than that going for it. It is fresh, flavourful, with good weight, and there’s a hint of minerality in with that acidity. This lip-smacking refreshing wine is a Highly Recommended example.

Picpoul is an ancient grape but the disease Phylloxera almost did for it until the French discovered it could thrive on sandy soil. Hence its renaissance in the Languedoc. It is no surprise, then, that Picpoul is to be found only in coastal vineyards such as those which surround Pinet and the Etang de Thau (lots of oysters here, conveniently!), just west of Montpellier. According to Wine-Searcher, there are a few vineyards in Portugal and Spain growing Picpoul, although there it goes by the names Picapoll and Avello.

Picpoul de Pinet is splendid with seafood and shellfish as well as other traditional Mediterranean dishes. It neutralises the salt and iodine in shellfish and other crustaceans, and is surprisingly good with rich cheese and charcuterie. It’s best drunk young and cool (between 8-10°).

Producers Bruno and Christine Cantie of Domaine Montredon own 55-ha, with 20-ha planted with Piquepoul. Their style is for classic, text-book dry and crisp Picpoul, wines that are ideal with the local seafood – oysters and mussels in particular. You’ll find them about halfway between Narbonne and Montpellier. By the way, there is no link between this producer and the Châteauneuf-du-Pape producer Domaine de Mont-Redon.

The Cask Box opens onto a magic road. Variety, colour, flavour, texture

The Cask Box opens onto a magic road.

Variety, colour, flavour, texture

Beef Short Rib Chimichanga

Open the Cask Box onto a magic road. Exotic signs along the way: Chimichanga, Empanadas, Koftas, Bravas. This is a food trail that we are on, guided by a Brazilian chef and packed with surprising variety, colour, flavour, texture. Six major stops on the delicioso camino.

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The box itself, which we picked up from the front door in MacCurtain Street, looks small enough but it is packed with a generous amount of good stuff. Some unlisted items are included. Big green olives, as large as pigeon eggs, big but exquisite. Some bread too and a trio of colourful and tasty dips to be starting with as we begin to make sense of the directions (don't worry, nothing at all too onerous here). Indeed the few minutes preparations for the courses encourages you to get up and chat and sip a little wine.

Cask are justly famous for their cocktails and you have the option of adding two or more to your order. But I had a bottle of wine on hand that I figured would go well with Cask in a Box. And the Menade Verdejo Ecologica Vino De La Tierra De Castilla Y Leon excelled itself across most of the “courses”. I didn’t chance it against the Chocolate Empanadas but it stood out when paired with Monkfish Croquettes, Prawn & Chorizo Stew and especially (and slightly surprisingly) with the Lamb Kofta (with Raita sauce). 

In no time at all, the Patatas Bravas with their sauce were on the table and, in no time at all they, along with the garlic aioli, had vanished. By then, the Monkfish Croquettes were at hand and, served with a tasty salad of large peas and with a lime and honey aioli, were thoroughly enjoyed.

An impressive surf and turf combination followed: the Prawn and Chorizo Stew that sat atop a bed of rice. The wine sang in tune with this beauty. And stood out too when paired with the next round: Lamb Kofta in a tomato sauce. Tasty stuff with the raita providing a cooling touch.

While all these are classed as Tapas, they are not your one or two bite Spanish style tapas. These are more like small plates, designed for sharing, quite generous portions indeed as was certainly the case with our next plate.

This was Beef Short Rib Chimichanga. Chimichanga I had to look up and found this definition: a tortilla wrapped round a filling, typically of meat, and deep-fried and may have originated in Mexico or even in Arizona.

Our Chimichanga was multi-layered and was packed with the shredded beef and took just seven minutes in the oven. Then it was cut in half and placed on the delicious guacamole and tomato salsa. Another superb dish from @chefvictorfranca and the team at Cask.

Dessert

And still there was one more stop on this fabulous food journey, the sweet one, of course. And it was wickedly sweet, sugar laced Empanadas with a shot of the chocolate in the pocket, just a shot but a strong one! We just about finished one and kept the other for the next day; not as crisp then but still delicious.

So now you know. If you’re looking for something different, order that box (a vegan selection also available) from Cask (€40 for two people). They have other choices as well, including Prawn Empanadas, Chicken Empanadas and Taquitos. Not all “exotic” boy - you could well be tempted by the Beef and Beamish Pie (covered with Parmesan cheese)!

More details here. 

#cask #VictorianQuarter #LeCaveau #Greenes #purecork #tapas #smallplates #wine #tablepath #AtHome #takeout #chefvictorfranca

Two Highly Recommended French Wines. Picpoul from Pinet, Gamay from Beaujolais.

Two Highly Recommended French Wines. Picpoul from Pinet, Gamay from Beaujolais.

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La Mirande Picpoul De Pinet (AOP) 2019, 13.5%

€14.60 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

This Languedoc wine pours a pristine light gold. Fresh aromas of the related yellow fruits apricot and peach plus a touch of citrus are found in the pleasant aromas of moderate intensity. On the palate, this lively thirst-quenching wine features a crisp acidity and the flavours reflect the aromas. Highly Recommended.

Ideal for most fish and seafood and as a thirst-quenching aperitif. Happily, the producers themselves won’t have to travel at all for their ideal pairings as the estate, organically farmed, is located in the heart of the Picpoul appellation, not far from the Bassin de Thau, a salt-water lagoon dedicated to the cultivation of oysters and mussels.

They say: Born under the Languedoc sun, this wine made from Piquepoul grapes will highlight fish, shellfish and crustaceans. It will also make an excellent aperitif.The Mirande vineyard located on limestone terraces overlooking the Etang de Thau, produces this very refined wine which is generally drunk young.

Alex Foillard Beaujolais-Villages (AOP) 2019, 13%

€23.60 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Colour of this Gamay, a light and fruity red by Foillard junior (his dad is the more famous, so far, Jean), is a mid-ruby. Red and black berries feature in the delicate aromas along with hints of menthol. If aromas are delicate, the palate is definitely supple. It’s spicy and fresh, the pure and delicious fruit tending to tartness (nothing extreme though) plus a lively acidity as well. Quite an opulent and refreshing wine and Highly Recommended, one that you and your lucky guests can enjoy.

Le Caveau recommend pairing with duck, pork, or even a slice of cherry pie. Serve it cool, naturally!

They say: Alex had early exposure to the world of wine, and more specifically, to the principles of sustainable farming and low-intervention winemaking that brought his father to stardom in natural wine circles. The new generation at Domaine Foillard has burst onto the scene with a bang, and the future is full of exciting possibilities for this talented Beaujolais youngster. His wines can already be found in the hippest wine bars and wine shops in New York, Paris and Tokyo.

Vibrant and Juicy Reds from Austria and Argentina.

Vibrant and Juicy Reds from Austria and Argentina.

Beck Ink Austria 2018, 12.5%, 

€19.70 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Colour of this Austrian blend is a mid to deep ruby, with a lighter rim. Cherry features in fairly intense aromas. Juicy and fruity on the palate. moderately spicy too. Mouthfeel is smooth, drinking is easy as harmony reigns between fruit flavours and acidity. I like light, red and dry and this is Very Highly Recommended. An easy quaffer, fresh and aromatic, and light for sure. 

The label is dominated by an octopus expelling ink. Not much else though two key words appear: trocken (dry) and Bio-Wein. Not much on the outside then but quality all the way inside this Austrian bottle.

Ink is a fresh, juicy, vibrant and delicious blend of 80% Zweigelt and 20% St. Laurent. Both are traditional Austrian varieties and the former is the most widely planted red-wine grape in the country - by the way, most of wine-growing is done in the eastern part. 

Judith Beck is based in Burgenland and has produced wines in accordance with bio-dynamic principles since 2007. There is a possibility of some sediment (none in this bottle) so probably best to decant. No big deal either way.

Interestingly, St Laurent was one of the “parents” (the other was Blaufränkisch) when Zweigelt was created in 1922. Aside from Laurent and Zweigelt, some of the other grapes that come into the light dry red category are Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cinsault, Grenache and Nebbiolo. Giant Steps in the Yarra Valley (Australia) make quite a good one, a blend of Pinot Noir and Syrah, called LDR.

El Abasto Malbec Mendoza 2018, 14.5% 

€18.75 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

This vibrant fruity full-bodied wine is named after an 1983 established market that became also a centre for tango, poetry, and culture.

Mid to dark ruby is the colour. The aromas are full of dark and red fruit, all saying welcome, come on. And in the mouth, it is equally loveable, totally gluggable. That punchy yet soft fruit comes in a medium body, and the wine is smooth right through to the finalé. Put this on your Malbec shortlist. Highly Recommended.

Pair with charcuterie, cold cuts, firm cheeses, steak, burgers, pasta with red sauce. And it can be served chilled, though you probably won’t need to do that at this time of year!

There are, according to Wines of South America, two main factors that help Malbec thrive in Mendoza. The low rainfall (12” as against 30” Bordeaux) and its timing, falling mostly in the summer, promotes ripening and minimises disease. Second, Mendoza’s wide thermal amplitude (put simply, the difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures) promotes aromatic development and softened tannins. The proof’s in the glass.

Top Wines 2020 Short List. Look to Chile's Itata for red, to Spain's Navarra for white

 Top Wines 2020 Short List

Found my Red in Itata, White in Navarra

Hard work in Itata - from a Liberty Wines Zoomed Masterclass 2020.

Pedro Parra “Vinista” Itata Chile 2018 Liberty

Clos des Fous “Pour Ma Geule” Itata Chile 2016 Liberty

Montes “Outer Limits” Cinsault 2017 DO Valle del Itata Liberty

Leonardo Erazo “A Los Viñateros Bravos” Volcánico País 2018 Itata (Chile) Le Caveau

Azul y Garanza Naturaleza Salvaje Blanca Navarra 2019 Mary Pawle

Blank Canvas Grüner Veltliner Marlborough (2013) Liberty

Ata Rangi “Lismore” Pinot Gris Martinborough 2018 Liberty

While most of the wine I drink these days comes from Europe (much of the red from France), it seems my favourite red wine area for 2020 is Itata in Chile. Light reds are emerging as a personal favourite and here in Itata, with the likes of Pedro Parra, Aurelio Montes and Leonardo Erazo working their magic, we are enjoying beautiful bottles based on País but also Cinsault. The four listed above are superb and I'm not inclined to pick any one over the others.

Aside from the Itata wines, Beaujolais, Burgundy and the Loire (Cabernet Franc), will also feature on my shopping lists. Indeed, the Passetoutgrains below is a gem. Navarra has some outstanding winemakers including Azul y Garanza and Tandem. Also in Spain, Bodegas Pinuaga made a big impression on me early in the year.

No Itata equivalent in the whites but the two from New Zealand  are outstanding and are distinctive examples of Grüner Veltliner and Pinot Gris. Austria is, of course, the home of Gru-Vee and Diwald come up with the goods year after year as indeed does Judith Beck. The three French whites featured are each worth looking out for. And Spain has come up with a stunning Garnacha white, by Azul y Garanza, pipping the Kiwis for my white of the year!

The Short List 2020

RED

Chile

Pedro Parra “Vinista” Itata Chile 2018 Liberty

Clos des Fous “Pour Ma Geule” Itata Chile 2016 Liberty

Montes “Outer Limits” Cinsault 2017 DO Valle del Itata Liberty

Leonardo Erazo “A Los Viñateros Bravos” Volcánico País 2018 Itata (Chile) Le Caveau

France

J.M. Cazes Domaine des Sénéchaux Châteauneuf-du-Pape (AOC) 2016 O’Brien’s

Domaine Lacour Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (AOP) 2017 Le Caveau

J-C Regnaudot Pinot Noir Bourgogne (AOC) '17 Le Caveau

Château du Cèdre Héritage Malbec, Cahors (AOC) 2016 Le Caveau

Domaine de Brau PURE Pinot Noir, Pays D’Oc (IGP) 2015 Mary Pawle

Italy

GD Vajra Nebbiolo Langhe (DOC) 2018 Liberty

Spain

Bodegas Pinuaga Tinto “Colección” Vino de la Tierra de Castilla  2016 Mary Pawle

Tandem Ars Nova Navarra (DO) 2014 O'Brien's

Azul y Garanza  “Naturaleze Salvaje” Navarra (DO) 2017 Mary Pawle

Portugal

Casa Ferreirinha Vinha Grande Douro (DOC)  Douro Tinto 2017 Liberty

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WHITE

Spain

Azul y Garanza Naturaleza Salvaje Blanca 2019 Mary Pawle

New Zealand

Blank Canvas Grüner Veltliner Marlborough (2013) Liberty

Ata Rangi “Lismore” Pinot Gris Martinborough 2018 Liberty

France

Meyer-Fonné Gentil Alsace (AOC) 2018 Le Caveau

Bertrand Ambroise Lettre d’Eloïse Chardonnay “Coteaux Bourguignons” (AOC) 2017 Le Caveau

Rijckaert Chardonnay Arbois (AOC) 2018 Bradley’s/Wine Mason

Germany

Lingenfelder Riesling Trocken Kabinett Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel Pfalz (DP) 2018 O’Briens

Portugal

Casa Ferreirinha Vinha Grande Douro (DOC) Douro Branco 2019 Liberty

Austria

Diwald Grüner Veltliner (Wagram, Austria) 2018 Mary Pawle

Beck Weissburgunder Austria 2019 Le Caveau 

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Red and White Doubles

Fancy a good pair of red and white on your table at Christmas table or indeed at anytime? Why not try the Le Caveau pair, the Passetoutgrains (16.95) and the Gentil (18.00), listed above.

Lingenfelder Riesling Trocken Kabinett Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel Pfalz (DP) 2018

Tandem Ars Nova Navarra (DO) 2014. Both from O’Brien’s

Diwald Grüner Veltliner (Wagram, Austria) 2018 Mary Pawle

De Brau Pure Pinot Noir Pays D’Oc (IGP) 2018 Mary Pawle

GD Vajra Nebbiolo Langhe (DOC) 2018 Liberty Wines

Pieropan Soave (DOC) Classico 2019 Liberty Wines

Andre Goichot Fleurie (AOC) 2018 Supervalu

Guy Saget Sancerre (AOC) 2018 Supervalu 

See the Long List here. 

And the Good Value List here.

Both should help you you in your quest for good wine in the run-up to Christmas and well into the New Year.

País and Weiss be with you all. Salud and Prost!

País and Weiss be with you all. Salud and Prost!

Outstanding Wines from Chile and Austria.

Leonardo Erazo “A Los Viñateros Bravos” Volcánico País 2018 Itata (Chile), 12.5%

€24.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Some terrific wines, many made from the País grape, are coming out of the Itata area in Chile. And this is one of them.

Colour is quite a light ruby. Aromas of wild strawberries and, I’m told, of the local vegetation. Palate is fresh and light, vibrant, delicate red fruit flavours, touch of spice, distinctive and refreshing, smooth all the way to the finish. The granitic soils have a lot to say and tell here and, perhaps, that is why, or at least one reason, this wine reminds me of a good Beaujolais. A quiet friendly one and Very Highly Recommended. 

“A Los Viñateros Bravos” means to the brave vignerons. This is Erazo’s tribute to those the have kept these incredible red vines alive, 100% farmed by hand. Here in the interesting granitic and volcanic soils of Itata, old vines, ungratified, unirrigated, natural low yields, and natural winemaking allow us to show the impact on the wine were the roots are feeding the mother rock.

The first País (also known, particularly in California, as the Mission grape) was brought by the conquistadors in the 1550s and, for centuries, the new locals used it to make wines for themselves. But bit by bit, the big companies began to use the big-name grapes and the ancient imports lost ground. Leonardo Erazo was one who wanted to reverse this trend. He travelled the world for ten years to study wine and then came back and founded A Los Viñateros Bravos.

In Itata, Leonardo has worked with the scattered local farmers’ old vines—many well over 100 years, still growing as dry farmed, untrained small bushes—to enhance their traditional natural practices to align with biodynamic guidelines. His mission, throughout this journey, has been to bring a sense of place into the bottle. Looks like he (and others, such as Pedro Parra) is succeeding.

Beck Weissburgunder Austria 2019, 12.5%

€21.85 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

This Austrian Pinot Blanc has a beautiful bright yellow gold colour. Gorgeous inviting aromas too of citrus and white fruits. Strikingly full-bodied and a delicious satisfying harmony between the complex fruit and a refreshing acidity with a hint of spice in there as well. Another outstanding wine from Judith Beck. Very Highly Recommended.

The winery says Weissburgunder is a globally underestimated grape. It is perfectly adapted to the climate and soils around Lake Neusiedl and finds its ideal conditions here. The fruit is picked by hand, and is matured, on the entire lees, for 6 months in used oak casks, so as not to add an oaky flavour and it is fragrant and refreshing.

Since 2007, Judith Beck has produced wines in accordance with biodynamic principles. They say: the focus is on the vine growing. Biodynamics is an art of healing which takes advantage of the holistic curativeness of nature. It aims at strengthening the natural resistance of the plant.The aim is to produce authentic wines with an individual aroma   while at the same time maintaining healthy soil and vines.