Showing posts with label Le Caveau. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Le Caveau. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 9, 2020

Top Wines 2020 Short List. Look to Chile's Itata for red, to Spain's Navarra for white

 Top Wines 2020 Short List

Found my Red in Itata, White in Navarra

Hard work in Itata - from a Liberty Wines Zoomed Masterclass 2020.

Pedro Parra “Vinista” Itata Chile 2018 Liberty

Clos des Fous “Pour Ma Geule” Itata Chile 2016 Liberty

Montes “Outer Limits” Cinsault 2017 DO Valle del Itata Liberty

Leonardo Erazo “A Los Viñateros Bravos” Volcánico País 2018 Itata (Chile) Le Caveau



Azul y Garanza Naturaleza Salvaje Blanca Navarra 2019 Mary Pawle

Blank Canvas Grüner Veltliner Marlborough (2013) Liberty

Ata Rangi “Lismore” Pinot Gris Martinborough 2018 Liberty


While most of the wine I drink these days comes from Europe (much of the red from France), it seems my favourite red wine area for 2020 is Itata in Chile. Light reds are emerging as a personal favourite and here in Itata, with the likes of Pedro Parra, Aurelio Montes and Leonardo Erazo working their magic, we are enjoying beautiful bottles based on País but also Cinsault. The four listed above are superb and I'm not inclined to pick any one over the others.


Aside from the Itata wines, Beaujolais, Burgundy and the Loire (Cabernet Franc), will also feature on my shopping lists. Indeed, the Passetoutgrains below is a gem. Navarra has some outstanding winemakers including Azul y Garanza and Tandem. Also in Spain, Bodegas Pinuaga made a big impression on me early in the year.



No Itata equivalent in the whites but the two from New Zealand  are outstanding and are distinctive examples of Grüner Veltliner and Pinot Gris. Austria is, of course, the home of Gru-Vee and Diwald come up with the goods year after year as indeed does Judith Beck. The three French whites featured are each worth looking out for. And Spain has come up with a stunning Garnacha white, by Azul y Garanza, pipping the Kiwis for my white of the year!



The Short List 2020


RED


Chile

Pedro Parra “Vinista” Itata Chile 2018 Liberty

Clos des Fous “Pour Ma Geule” Itata Chile 2016 Liberty

Montes “Outer Limits” Cinsault 2017 DO Valle del Itata Liberty

Leonardo Erazo “A Los Viñateros Bravos” Volcánico País 2018 Itata (Chile) Le Caveau


France

J.M. Cazes Domaine des Sénéchaux Châteauneuf-du-Pape (AOC) 2016 O’Brien’s

Domaine Lacour Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (AOP) 2017 Le Caveau

J-C Regnaudot Pinot Noir Bourgogne (AOC) '17 Le Caveau

Château du Cèdre Héritage Malbec, Cahors (AOC) 2016 Le Caveau

Domaine de Brau PURE Pinot Noir, Pays D’Oc (IGP) 2015 Mary Pawle


Italy

GD Vajra Nebbiolo Langhe (DOC) 2018 Liberty


Spain

Bodegas Pinuaga Tinto “Colección” Vino de la Tierra de Castilla  2016 Mary Pawle

Tandem Ars Nova Navarra (DO) 2014 O'Brien's

Azul y Garanza  “Naturaleze Salvaje” Navarra (DO) 2017 Mary Pawle


Portugal

Casa Ferreirinha Vinha Grande Douro (DOC)  Douro Tinto 2017 Liberty


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WHITE


Spain

Azul y Garanza Naturaleza Salvaje Blanca 2019 Mary Pawle

New Zealand

Blank Canvas Grüner Veltliner Marlborough (2013) Liberty

Ata Rangi “Lismore” Pinot Gris Martinborough 2018 Liberty


France

Meyer-Fonné Gentil Alsace (AOC) 2018 Le Caveau

Bertrand Ambroise Lettre d’Eloïse Chardonnay “Coteaux Bourguignons” (AOC) 2017 Le Caveau

Rijckaert Chardonnay Arbois (AOC) 2018 Bradley’s/Wine Mason


Germany

Lingenfelder Riesling Trocken Kabinett Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel Pfalz (DP) 2018 O’Briens


Portugal

Casa Ferreirinha Vinha Grande Douro (DOC) Douro Branco 2019 Liberty



Austria

Diwald Grüner Veltliner (Wagram, Austria) 2018 Mary Pawle

Beck Weissburgunder Austria 2019 Le Caveau 



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Red and White Doubles


Fancy a good pair of red and white on your table at Christmas table or indeed at anytime? Why not try the Le Caveau pair, the Passetoutgrains (16.95) and the Gentil (18.00), listed above.


Lingenfelder Riesling Trocken Kabinett Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel Pfalz (DP) 2018

Tandem Ars Nova Navarra (DO) 2014. Both from O’Brien’s


Diwald Grüner Veltliner (Wagram, Austria) 2018 Mary Pawle

De Brau Pure Pinot Noir Pays D’Oc (IGP) 2018 Mary Pawle


GD Vajra Nebbiolo Langhe (DOC) 2018 Liberty Wines

Pieropan Soave (DOC) Classico 2019 Liberty Wines


Andre Goichot Fleurie (AOC) 2018 Supervalu

Guy Saget Sancerre (AOC) 2018 Supervalu 


See the Long List here

And the Good Value List here.

Both should help you you in your quest for good wine in the run-up to Christmas and well into the New Year.

Wednesday, November 25, 2020

País and Weiss be with you all. Salud and Prost!

País and Weiss be with you all. Salud and Prost!

Outstanding Wines from Chile and Austria.



Leonardo Erazo “A Los Viñateros Bravos” Volcánico País 2018 Itata (Chile), 12.5%

€24.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny


Some terrific wines, many made from the País grape, are coming out of the Itata area in Chile. And this is one of them.


Colour is quite a light ruby. Aromas of wild strawberries and, I’m told, of the local vegetation. Palate is fresh and light, vibrant, delicate red fruit flavours, touch of spice, distinctive and refreshing, smooth all the way to the finish. The granitic soils have a lot to say and tell here and, perhaps, that is why, or at least one reason, this wine reminds me of a good Beaujolais. A quiet friendly one and Very Highly Recommended. 


“A Los Viñateros Bravos” means to the brave vignerons. This is Erazo’s tribute to those the have kept these incredible red vines alive, 100% farmed by hand. Here in the interesting granitic and volcanic soils of Itata, old vines, ungratified, unirrigated, natural low yields, and natural winemaking allow us to show the impact on the wine were the roots are feeding the mother rock.

The first País (also known, particularly in California, as the Mission grape) was brought by the conquistadors in the 1550s and, for centuries, the new locals used it to make wines for themselves. But bit by bit, the big companies began to use the big-name grapes and the ancient imports lost ground. Leonardo Erazo was one who wanted to reverse this trend. He travelled the world for ten years to study wine and then came back and founded A Los Viñateros Bravos.


In Itata, Leonardo has worked with the scattered local farmers’ old vines—many well over 100 years, still growing as dry farmed, untrained small bushes—to enhance their traditional natural practices to align with biodynamic guidelines. His mission, throughout this journey, has been to bring a sense of place into the bottle. Looks like he (and others, such as Pedro Parra) is succeeding.




Beck Weissburgunder Austria 2019, 12.5%

€21.85 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny


This Austrian Pinot Blanc has a beautiful bright yellow gold colour. Gorgeous inviting aromas too of citrus and white fruits. Strikingly full-bodied and a delicious satisfying harmony between the complex fruit and a refreshing acidity with a hint of spice in there as well. Another outstanding wine from Judith Beck. Very Highly Recommended.


The winery says Weissburgunder is a globally underestimated grape. It is perfectly adapted to the climate and soils around Lake Neusiedl and finds its ideal conditions here. The fruit is picked by hand, and is matured, on the entire lees, for 6 months in used oak casks, so as not to add an oaky flavour and it is fragrant and refreshing.


Since 2007, Judith Beck has produced wines in accordance with biodynamic principles. They say: the focus is on the vine growing. Biodynamics is an art of healing which takes advantage of the holistic curativeness of nature. It aims at strengthening the natural resistance of the plant.The aim is to produce authentic wines with an individual aroma   while at the same time maintaining healthy soil and vines.

Monday, November 23, 2020

A couple of splendid French whites, from the north-east (Alsace) and the south-west (Gaillac).

 A couple of splendid French whites, from the north-east (Alsace) and the south-west (Gaillac).


Laurent Cazottes “Adèle” Vin de France 2018, 14.5%

€19.95  64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny


Adèle blanc is 100% Mauzac rose, an indigenous grape from the Gaillac region. where you'll find Domaine Laurent Cazottes. Husband and wife team, Laurent and Marina, are known for making exceptional, artisan eau de vie from various fruits they organically farm. They also make gorgeous wine from old vine Gaillac grape varieties: Mauzac, Braucol and Duras. Their wine, like their eau de vie, is certified organic and treated with great care. Highly Recommended.

Adèle’s colour is more orange than gold. Aromas hint of ripe apples. Lively, and complex, on the rich and rounded palate, intense white fruit flavours (pear, apple), with a fine acidity too, all the way through to the warming (sherry like) finish. Should be versatile at the table. Think I’d start with free range pork (preferably Woodside Farm) with apple sauce, followed by Tarte Tatin.

I think I’d like to have Cazottes as neighbours. In addition to the wines, they also cultivates 600 “Williams” pear trees, no less than “1300 truffle oaks for the melano sporum truffle, 1000 saffron bulbs, oil from our sunflower, bread wheat, barley, black oats, sparse hay, aromatic plants for the production of floral waters and essential oils." Everything is in organic farming, the Cazottes estate is certified by "Nature et Progrès”.


Domaine de l’Achillée Riesling Alsace (AOP) 2016, 12%, €27.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny



Colour of this organic Alsace Riesling is a lovely light gold, quite bright. Aromas are rather intense with lime leading the way, a slight background note of diesel. Quite a presence on the palate, superb flavours of grapefruit and lime, a terrific acidity too and the harmony holds all the way through the persistent finish. Highly Recommended


The label suggests serving at 12 degrees. Don’t put it in the fridge, rather leave it outside the back door these Autumn evenings! They say it is perfect with seafood and raw vegetables. Excellent with all dishes based on white meat and fish, preferably freshwater. Try it with baked trout.


Domaine de L’Achillée is an Alsace winery, situated less than an hour south-west of Strasbourg. The Dietrich family have farmed the land here since 1600. These days they concentrate on grapes and other fruits and have been organic since 1999.


In 2016, the two sons of Yves Dietrich, Jean and Pierre, joined the adventure to give it a big boost, to become independent. Quickly accompanied by an equally passionate team, they built together a straw winery where they now vinify the fruits of the family estate. Apparently, the heavily compacted straw bales are more fire-proof than the iron frame that supports them. Their website says this is the largest straw building in Europe.

Sunday, October 18, 2020

Check out this distinctive Basque wine. And a Bordeaux gem!

Check out this distinctive Basque wine.

And a Bordeaux gem!

Getaria memorial to Elcano

Ameztoi Getaria Txakoli (DO) 2018, 10.5%

€18.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny


Very little colour in this Highly Recommended Basque wine. And nothing too bold in the nose either, though the subtle salinity and modest fruit provide a hint of things to come. Nothing backward about the lively minerally palate, its tart green apple fruit, that trademark petillance and that unmistakable vivid acidity, though the acidity in this one is markedly less severe than you’ll find in other examples. 

A tumbler of freshly poured
Txakoli in Hendaye


The bubbles, by the way, don’t hang around too long but you can get more of them if you pour it the Basque way, that is from over shoulder height and into a sturdy tumbler held or stood at waist height - you’ll also see them pouring cider in this way. If you try pouring into a normal wine glass from that height, you’re looking for an accident!


Located near the Basque Country fishing village of Getaria between San Sebastian and Bilbao, Ignacio Ameztoi’s vineyards are cut into incredibly steep terraced slopes overlooking the Bay of Biscay and the Atlantic.

Balenciaga house in Getaria


Here the native grapes Hondarrabi Zuri and Hondarrabi Beltza are trained in high trellises; they are not weeded and no chemical sprays are used. Hondarribia is the first Spanish town you meet after leaving Hendaye (the last town in the south west of France) and crossing the Bidasoa River. Zuri means white and Beltza means red.

Getaria vineyard


Txakoli is regarded as the perfect companion to salted anchovies or tuna in oil. By the way, Ameztoi blend the red and the white to produce what I’ve read is a very interesting rosé. The USA is the leading market for the company.


Juan Sebastián Elcano, featured on the label, was from Getaria and is famous for completing the round the world voyage that Magellan began. There is a sturdy memorial to him in the middle of the village. This picturesque, and busy, place is also the birthplace of fashion designer Balenciaga and there is a museum here in his honour.



Chateau Tire Pé Bordeaux (AC) 2018, 13%,

 €16.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny



This organic 100% Merlot pours a dark ruby.  Ripe black and red berried fruit in the fairly intense aromas. And the same fruit features strongly on the palate, some spice too and an excellent acidity. The wine is a lovely harmonious Bordeaux, easy and fruity, easy to drink, easy to enjoy. 

Not so harmonious on the hill of Tire Pé back in the day when the horse was the main “engine” of the farm. Apparently, the working horses would pass wind under the effort of climbing the hill, on their way back to the farm. A different kind of aromatics!

Hélène and David Barrault purchased Tire Pé in 1997 and have been farming organically since 2008 (certified since 2014).They have created a little garden of Eden, where wild grass, insects, birds and small wild animals live among the vines. They regard this Merlot as an everyday wine, “to drink in its youth”. No wood used here, ageing is 8 to 12 months in concrete.

Very Highly Recommended. This one will be going straight on to my Good Value Wine List  which is steadily growing! 

Wednesday, September 30, 2020

If Douro or Duero is on the bottle label, you're on an Iberian winner. The River and its Wine.

The River and its Wine

The river begins its journey in the centre of the north of Spain and is called the Duero. Five hundred miles to the west, it enters the Atlantic at Porto where it is now called Douro. Not quite a river of wine but there is no shortage of the drink as you travel from east to west, from Spain to Portugal. Our first bottle below comes from the Spanish area known as Ribera del Duero (ribera means riverbank). In Portugal, the amazingly scenic Douro is perhaps best known as the home of Port but here too you will find excellent still wines such as the example below from Quinta Da Esteveira. 

Viña Fuentenarro “4 Mesas En Barrica” Ribera Del Duero (D0) 2018, 14%, 

Tempranillo, in many Irish people’s minds, is the grape of Rioja. And it is. But, since the end of the 20th century, the 300 plus bodegas of Ribera Del Duero are also laying a strong claim to the grape by making some excellent wines with it.

This deep red Fuentenarro (from a family owned winery) is a 100% Tempranillo. Traditional aromas of black berry fruit, touch of spice. Big intro of fruit and spice, no shortage of acidity either, juicy yet dry. Powerful start eases smoothly down to  super-long finish. One to sip - a little goes a long way - and enjoy your long lunch or dinner as the sun goes down. Very Highly Recommended. That it is well priced is a bonus.

Wine has been produced in this beautiful region since Roman times, though it became well known outside of Spain only in the 1990s. North west of Madrid and south west of Rioja, in the Castilla y León region, the vines grow on a flowing swathe of land that’s approximately 115 kms long and 35 kms wide. 

The vast majority (including Fuentenarro, near La Horra) grow in the province of Burgos but some too in Segovia, Soria (Antidoto, for example) and Valladolid.

Two related factors that make Ribera different are the average altitude of 850 metres and the big variations in summer between the heat of the day and the cool of the night. The heat of the day promotes the ripening, the chill of the night preserves acidity. 

Casel Dos Jordões Quinta Da Esteveira Reserva Tinto Douro (DOC) 2014, 14.5%, €15.20 Mary Pawle

This organic Portuguese blend is a dark red colour. Rich and ripe aromas. Smooth, fruity and a bit spicy, a lovely mouthful with a good finish as well. Highly Recommended. Pretty well priced too.

The label indicates the blend is composed of 70% Touriga Franca, 20% Touriga Nacional, 10% Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo in Spain). It also recommends pairing with meat dishes, cheese, smoked meats and roasted chestnuts. 

Two of the grape varieties, the two Tourigas, are also used in the production of Port. The Jordoes family began producing wine from terraced vineyards on the slopes above the river Torto in 1870 and, since 1994 have championed the production of organic port. They are just one of quite a few Port producers also involved in still wine (no big surprise there!).

Sunday, September 6, 2020

A Red and White Wine Double from Italy's Heel.

A Red and White Wine Double
 from Italy's Heel.

Antica Enotria Bianco Puglia (IGT) 2018, 12.5% 
This light-straw coloured blend of Falanghina and Fiano comes from the organic vineyards of Raffaele di Tuccio in Puglia in the south east of Italy (the “heel of the boot”). Aromas, floral and pear, are rather delicate. The fruit though is somewhat more assertive on the palate, a crisp and refreshing acidity also features as does a streak of minerality before a reasonably persistent finish. Quite a light and elegant blend, very acceptable as an aperitif and with garden salads and good with fish too. Highly Recommended. Chill it just a little but don’t overdo it.
So what kind of grapes are Falanghina and Fiano, you might well ask. They may not be well-known outside of Italy (mainly in Campania). But, believe it or not, Grapes and Wines say Falanghina “is now one of Italy’s new star white grapes” while Fiano is an “interesting, high-quality and very fashionable southern Italian grape responsible fro Campania’s aromatic Fiano di Avellino…”. Indeed, that particular Fiano is a DOCG wine, the top Italian designation. Sounds like a pair of grapes we need to keep in mind!
By the way, the Roman name for Campania (on the opposite side of Italy to Puglia) was Campania Felix, felix meaning happy. One of the reasons was that much of their favourite Falernian wine was produced here!
Le Caveau tell us that Raffaele di Tuccio bought this run-down farmhouse, dating back to the 1700’s, in 1985 and over the past 30 years has worked tirelessly with his wife, Antonia, and son, Luigi, to bring the property back to life. The vineyards are influenced by the cooling Tramontana wind from the north, and the warming Scirocco wind from the south, giving ideal conditions for their dedication to organic viticulture and lending crispness and depth to the wines.

Natalino del Prete “Il Pioniere” Salentino (IGP) 2017, 15%


Negroamaro can be slightly “farmyardy” in flavour, according to Grapes and Wines. But they go on to say that it can be easier to appreciate if blended with a little of the far more scented, succulent Malvasia Nera (15%), as is the case here.
Colour is a solid dark red. The nose opens on clear and deep notes of overripe red and darker fruit. And that fruit is also found in the flavours on the palate, a warm welcoming wine with a persistent finish. A genuine wine of substance, pleasant with excellent drinkability. VHR
Le Caveau tells us Natalino Del Prete, organic since 1994, is a traditional grower of Southern Puglia. They also say: The Pioniere is fantastic: 70-80+ old vines of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera,… a total bargain for the quality and the story behind. Super structured but super light to drink, full of sweet spices and charm. 
The wine from the warm lands of Salentino is, as you might expect, particularly suitable to accompany typical dishes of the Mediterranean cuisine. Serve at 16/18 ° C with Aged cheeses, White meat main courses, Red meat main courses. The impurities located in the bottom of the bottle, and I did find a few “grains”, merely serve to confirm the genuineness of the product.
#drinkresponsibly 

Monday, August 3, 2020

Wine. What's it all about? Pét-Nat. And now there's an Irish one!

Wine. What's it all about? Pét-Nat
And now there's an Irish one!  
From Greece to Baltimore!

So what’s this Pét-Nat wine they are all talking about? Firstly, it is an abbreviation for pétillant naturel, the French term that roughly means naturally sparkling.

Is it then a copy of champagne? Far from it. It is the other way around if anything, as Pét-Nat has been around longer. Pét-Nat is bottled while still undergoing its first round of fermentation. The French call this process “methode ancestral” and you may see that on the label. 

You may see “bottle fermented,” or, the Italian, “col fondo,” (more or less a  pét-nat Prosecco). The crown cap and a little bit of sediment are other clues!

The method is pretty widespread across the wine world - I enjoyed a Greek one recently. Most are fun and good with food, especially lighter dishes. Great for al fresco lunches and that is where I came across the Greek - see below.

And now there's an Irish Pét-Nat, though not for sale yet! Produced by Mark Jenkinson Slane Co. Meath. It was unveiled in last Saturday's Drinks Theatre event in Ballymaloe and presenters Colm and Seamus says it is "fantastic, an Irish Pet Nat Rosé from Chardonnay & Pinot Noir vines in Tandardstown". For more, including next Sat's Natural Wine event, check the Drinks Theatre on Instagram.

Entré Vinyes Oníric Pét-Nat Penedes 2019, 12.5%, €13.45 Mary Pawle


Colour of this Spanish version is more lemon than yellow, cloudy. Floral aromas of modest intensity. You will get a big white “head” but it won’t last kissing time. Fresh, plush and, helped by the lovely pleasant feel of the sparkle on the palate, it is instantly accessible, with second glass appeal for sure. All this, along with the white fruit and just enough acidity to ensure a harmonious and easy-drinking experience, makes this one of the Highly Recommended.

Onric in Catalan translates as dreamer and Entre Vinyes is a personal project of Maria Barrena (Azul y Garanza in Navarra), the aim being to rescue old forgotten vineyards and restore a balanced ecosystem. This 60-year vineyard, surrounded by a rich biodiversity, is in the Baix Penedes region (in Catalonia) close to the Med. The grapes used are Xarel-lo (70%) and Muscat.

Azul y Garanza are very happy to add this one to their portfolio, “a clear reflection of the place they come from”. And I’m very happy too that Mary Pawle has imported it. An excellent example of the type and very well priced as well.

Mary Pawle tells me this has proved extremely popular. She stocked it in Urru in Bandon,  Manning’s Emporium, Ballylickey  & The Connemara Hamper in Clifden. Worth a try but you'll be lucky to get bottle.

Casa Belfi Col Fondo Organic Frizzante Rosso NV, 11.5%, €21.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny   

This Organic sparkling red wine is made from Raboso grown at the vineyards in San Polo di Piave (where they have been making wines since 1607). It is naturally fermented in the bottle, an Italian Pét-Nat. Raboso is a local Venetian variety named Raboso “Fiery in Italian”. But don’t worry, nothing extreme in this bottle! Piave is named after the local river and is famous for its cows milk cheese and for a decisive battle there during WW1.

Back to our frizzante which has a ruby red colour, with fine and persistent perlage. Fresh and fruity (sharp red fruit), floral and with spicy aromas. In the mouth, it is dry, with balanced tannins and a pleasant acidity. Quite a backbone of flavour and more assertive than white frizzantes. Highly Recommended.

Food pairings: This Rosso is recommended for rich first courses with meat sauces, salami, grilled and roast white and red meat. Serve at 10-12 degrees. This, they say, “is the same type of sparkling wine that our grandparents used to drink”.

Col Fondo: at the end of the alcoholic fermentation, the wine is racked off and stored in stainless steel tanks. As it ages the wine is frequently stirred in order to keep the yeasts in suspension (battonage). When the temperature starts rising in Spring, the time is perfect to make the wine sparkling.The still wine is bottled with some residual sugar and the consequent alcoholic fermentation forms the bubbles. There is no disgorgement. Magic!


Kamara Pure Rosé. A Greek Pét Nat in the Baltimore Sun

In July, we were enjoying a superb lunch in the sunny courtyard (right) of Baltimore's Customs House where Michelin chef Dede now operates. Could this get any better? Believe or not, it did. We (all the customers) were invited to taste one of the wines that the management had been trying out in the shade with Fionnuala of Wines Direct. 


Maria, Ahmet Dede’s business partner, told me they do that here and that they want good wines that their customers can afford, particularly by the glass. Our sample was that bit different, a delicious, light and easy-drinking Pét Nat, not from France but from Greece! What a lovely bonus. A friendly touch in a friendly and cool place. And that rosé went very well indeed with my chicken salad. 

Check Wines Direct for more details here