Showing posts with label Gubbeen. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gubbeen. Show all posts

Monday, May 3, 2021

Stunning Umbrian Wines Showcased at Online Tasting by Greenes Restaurant

Stunning Umbrian Wines Showcased at Online Tasting by Greenes Restaurant 





With his family vineyard overlooking Assisi, the city associated with St Francis, the patron saint of animals and ecology, perhaps it is no wonder that Roberto Di Filippo uses animals in the vineyard and that it is biodynamic. Perhaps Francis enjoyed the odd glass of wine!

Assisi

“We were one of the pioneers of organic wine in Umbria,” said  Roberto during the weekend’s superb tasting helmed by Fionnuala Harkin of Wines Direct and Frank Schiltkamp (Somm and Restaurant Manager) of Greenes Restaurant who were hosting the event.
Roberto


Di Filippo are based in Umbria. Roberto told us that Umbria is in central Italy and is the only Italian region without a coastline. It is in the very centre of the country and while it may not be the best known for wine, it had no doubt learned much from neighbours such as Tuscany and Marche. Perugia is the capital but Assisi is probably its best known city, a city that Di Filippo overlooks.

“Organic since 1994,” continued Roberto. “By 2009, we moved into biodynamic farming. Horses and geese arrived, tractors and chemicals were the past. Year by year we are seeing a big impact on soil and crops. Horses are my passion. Tractors can compact the soil so much, up to one metre deep. The system now is efficient and, for the majority of time, the horse is cheaper than the tractor.”

Another part of the horses' work

All the while, Fionnuala was showing a series of slides that matched what Roberto was talking about. Then he moved onto the first of wines, the white. “This is 100% Grechetto, the most typical white grape in Umbria. It is harvested in two turns and then blended. The earlier harvest gives freshness and mineralogy while the second gives full body and complexity.”



“Thanks to that double harvest, the aromas are fruity and fresh and with its acidity it will go well with tuna meat, fish, seafood, cheese and vegetables.” It was agreed generally that the wine was matching well with the salami, cutting through the fat.

“Why are those hands on the label?” asked Fionnuala. “They represent what we are - farmers. Without these hands you cannot drink the wines!”


The second wine, La Conversino (named after a local area, nothing to do with conversation!), is red and Sangiovese (80%) dominates. The balance is made up of other local and some international grapes and that part of the blend varies from vintage to vintage.

I saw this pair of horses at work in North Cork a few years back.
I was amazed at the precision of the large animals at work.
Here, they are cutting corn but another horse drew a scuffler through drills without putting a
foot wrong (and those hooves are large).

“It is a ruby colour,” said Roberto, “Not really deep. Aromas are fruity, it has a good balance, soft tannins, a good combination for many types of food, excellent with meat.” “Ideal for the lighter style of game,” said Frank. “Stunning with pheasant.”

And finally a tip from Roberto: “When you come to Umbria, book into a nice Agriturismo in the countryside. Take your time. Have nice food. Not just countryside, we have cities and mountains too. And don’t forget the truffles. - they are cheap!”



Di Filippo Grechetto Umbria IGT 2019, 13%, organic. €15.75


Lovely light gold colour (the brightness can vary from year to year). Delightful fresh and  fruity nose and you get more of the same, including a wash of citrus, on the palate before this rounded wine, with its tangy acidity, finishes pleasantly, medium-long and well. Very impressed with this one. Not just second glass appeal, more like second bottle! The producers recommend matching it with fish, white meat, fresh cheeses.


Fermentation is in stainless steel with wild yeast, and resting on lees in stainless steel until bottling. Very Highly Recommended.


Di Filippo “La Conversino” Rosso Umbria (IGT) 2019, 13.5%, organic, €14.75


A bright mid ruby is the colour of this Sangiovese dominated red. Aromas are quite intense, red berries prominent. Quite full-bodied and elegant as we move along on a fruity palate with enough acidity to maintain harmony all through. This is soft with beautiful embedded tannins and a medium long finish. The other grapes in the blend could include Barbera and Sagrantino but will vary from year to year.


Di Filippo suggest pairing with typical Italian pasta dishes, boiled meats, fresh cheese. Other suggestions are Pasta and Pizza, Hard Cheese, Game, Beef and Lamb. Quite a wine, full of resilience; as the night wears on and course follows course, this and its fruit core just gets better and better. Very Highly Recommended.



The cheese and charcuterie from Greenes was, as ever, top class, the portions generous.

Gubbeen cheese, Smoked Scaramoza cheese, Durrus, Young Buck blue cheese.

Gubbeen salami, Gubbeen chorizo, Gubbeen venison, Serrana Ham.

Olive tapenade, Tomato pesto, Basil Pesto, Humus, Olives, Capers, Gherkins, Onion

Compote and bread.


I may have been busy taking notes but it was a relaxing evening. Frank welcomed us on Zoom and struck the right note at the start: “Treat it casually and enjoy. Don’t be waiting for us. Sit back and enjoy as we go along.” We did! We could have been with friends in Umbria.

Sunday, December 20, 2020

Tip Top Tapas and a lovely experience at Vikki's in Sunday's Well

 Tip Top Tapas and a lovely experience at Vikki's in Sunday's Well

Camembert 


“Wild mushroom and truffle arancini” 

“Tempura prawn, wasabi mayo” 

“Burrata, tomatoes, olives and sour dough”

“Mackerel Pate and watercress salad”

 “Wild mushroom bruschetta”

“Miso glazed tofu, sesame and smoked almond crumbs”


All and more chalked on the tempting Tapas Board at Vikki’s (which comes under the Blue Haven wing) in Sunday’s Well. 


Add in the Charcuterie board (Ballinwillin goat salami, bresaola, Serrano ham, Ummera smoked duck, salami, olives and croutons). Plus the Cheeseboard of Cashel Blue cheese, Hegarty's cheddar, Macroom mozzarella, Taleggio, Knockanore vintage red cheddar, sundried tomatoes, Ballymaloe relish, grapes, crackers, apple chutney. I could see I was in for a tapas treat.

Yakitori


And that it would be enhanced by some excellent wines. Quite a few whites by the glass including the Blue Haven Collection Sauvignon Blanc by Better Half in Marlborough, New Zealand, and reds too such as the Johnny Q Shiraz-Viognier (South Australia). Fancy a full bottle? No bother. I can rarely resist a Gruner Veltliner and they have the Peter Scheiger Kogelberg among their whites, while the red list includes Chateau Maucoil Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Rhone, France).


No shortage of sparkling or rosé either. And they also offer local drinks in bottle such as Blacks of Kinsale KPA and Stonewell Cider Medium Dry, each a favourite of mine. As we started making tapas decisions, we sipped two terrific whites, the Abadia de Seixo Albariño and the Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. The Marlborough has been created in partnership between The Blue Haven Collection and Better Half Wines Marlborough, a small family winery sourcing premium grapes from thirteen hard-working, local growers in the Wairau and Awatere Valleys. Each was impressive in its own way.

Cauliflower


Soon our opening tapas were on the table and the sharing began. The cauliflower pakora with its mint yogurt was a pleasant opener but it was the Chicken Yakitori that came with its crunchy slaw and spicy dip that stole the opening act of a very pleasant and satisfactory meal.  All part of an easy-going evening with pleasant and good humoured staff who knew the menu and had time for a chat and a laugh or two.


I often feel that local chefs can better display their talents through smaller dishes and indeed we often agree that we would sometimes prefer to eat nothing but starters on certain occasions. And this is more or less what we were doing here because the tapas portions are equal in quantity to many starters.


Quantity and quality came together again in our next double. First up was the Baked Camembert with chutney and sourdough. Another superb dish, another highlight of the evening, the experience enhanced no end by the stunning plum chutney.

Cauliflower


We had now moved on to a couple of red wines. One was Organic “Authentico” Bobal Tempranillo, an excellent tapas wine, a rounded, fruity and persistent blend of Bobal and Tempranillo organic vines by Covinas. Bobal is a relatively unknown grape despite being widely planted in Spain. As it turned out, we both leaned towards our other red, the  “Original” Malbec by Rigal, from the South of France, a smooth fruity and harmonious wine.


The Bobal Tempranillo really came into its own with the Wild boar and Gubbeen cheese croquettes, perhaps the least photogenic of our tapas, but packed full of robust flavours and a delight to dispatch, especially with the lively sauce on which they were laid.


Would we like dessert? Reluctantly, we shook our heads, even though earlier we had put an eye on the Tunisian almond and orange cake in the short selection. We had enjoyed our tapas and the wine and the evening in Vikki’s and decided to call a halt!


You’ll find all the details, opening times and menus, on their website here and stay up to date with last minute changes by checking their Facebook page.  By the way, their Covid 19 precautions are some of the most impressive around. Delighted to take up an invite to visit this comfortable venue.


Tapas are served here from Wednesday to Sunday. They also do lunch and brunch - see social media. Below is a screenshot of their Christmas opening times (subject to Covid changes).




Wednesday, December 16, 2020

Sophie’s Tall, Dark and Handsome! And The Food's Pretty Good Too

Sophie’s Tall, Dark and Handsome!

And The Food's Pretty Good Too.

Pork Belly Salad

It’s big, bright and, being on the 6th floor of The Dean, Cork’s newest hotel, Sophie’s Restaurant has some of the best dining-room views in the city. Big, because they can seat 150 here. Bright, because there is glass on three sides; on the western edge, the windows give you terrific views over the north west part of the city, right out to the distant County Hall. On the fourth side, you’ll see the crew busy in the kitchen. And the hotel is dark, on the outside!


And it is comfortable, with tables for two and booths for more. Quite a few of those booths are along the length of the western side which means more of you can enjoy the views.  Designed by interior designers O’Donnell O’Neill, it is a stunning space for a variety of occasions. 

Smoked Pork Pizza


Floor to ceiling windows throughout allow light to pour in, whilst the reclaimed wooden roof and soft lighting give the space a cosy feel. The granite topped bar in the centre of the room is a real focal point, while the long open kitchen allows guests to watch the team in action, busy creating delectable dishes and working the wood fired pizza oven.

 

Two terraces, close to completion, extend the restaurant space allowing for al fresco dining. Both, front and back, are covered and heated to allow you to get cosy and watch the sun set over the River Lee with cocktail (and they have quite a range here) in hand! 

 


Of course, Sophie’s Restaurant would not be complete without their famous swings. Find them on the ground floor right beside the elevators. Snap yourself swinging before heading upstairs, just remember to hold on tight. Even if you miss the first pair, there’s another pair at Sophie’s entrance.


All very well, you say, but what about the food? A bit like the dress code: smart casual. Food in Sophie's (on the 6th floor) is enjoyable and excellent without being at all fussy or stuffy. Staff are a delight, informal and chatty but on the ball. All in all, an excellent experience, even if I forgot to try the famous swings!



I’ve seen the menu is billed as New York Italian and so Pizza is a large part of the menu, both for lunch and dinner. We were in for lunch and my choice of Pizza was the BBQ Smoked Pork, Pickled Cider Apples, Onion Jam (16.50). Enjoyed that very much indeed. It was a terrific combination of flavours and altogether well executed.


CL meanwhile was enjoying her Maple Glazed Pork Belly & Gubbeen Chorizo, Apple Salad (14.95), another well-chosen combination, even if she’d have preferred a little less fat in the pork. She had no problem though dipping into the Parmesan Italian fries (5.95); neither did I as we shared.


No local craft beers on offer, we were told, though they do have Lagunitas. The wine is interesting, including six on tap. Also, aside from the regular list, they offer a selection from an organic vineyard in the South of France and no shortage of bubbles either. CL went for the aromatic and crisp Richemer Picpoul de Pinet while my pick was the Marlborough, Stoneleigh Pinot Noir, each at 8.80 a glass.




As we enjoyed the wine, we picked our desserts from a short list. The warm and flavourful Blackberry & Apple Crumble & Vanilla Ice Cream (7.95) was one and the other was an equally satisfactory Raspberry Trifle, Vanilla Custard & Fresh Cream (also 7.95).







* The striking seven storey building, designed by Cork firm Wilson Architecture, forms part of the new Horgan’s Quay development, located moments from Kent Station.  There’s also a bus service almost to the door. And no shortage of car parking, especially in the CIE facility next door.

 

* Art is a prominent feature across the building. The Dean are creative partners of IMMA, and aim to promote and support Irish art. The Dean Cork’s walls will feature over 400 pieces of eye-catching, innovative and inspiring  Irish art from both established and up and coming artists and will be sourced predominantly from Cork and the Munster region.  


Monday, October 12, 2020

Nduja in Newcestown. On the West Cork Pizza Trail with The Curly Stu

Nduja in Newcestown. 

On the West Cork Pizza Trail with The Curly Stu

Scamorza

The Curly Stu is bringing a touch of Naples to a trio of mid and west Cork villages. We called to Newcestown last Friday evening to see what all the fuss is all about. Stuart Bowes is the man behind The Curly Stu and, we know, from his many years as Head Chef at Barnabrow House, that the Scot is a good one.


He told me: "I left Barnabrow at the end of August so I’m doing the pizzas Wednesdays in Castletownkenneigh (small country pub, Cookies, near my home beside Coppeen). Friday nights I'm in Newcestown in O’Mahony's Bar car park and Sunday evenings in Cloughduv in the Spreading Chestnut pub car park, all from 5-8.''  He keeps Saturdays free for all kinds of private parties and gigs.

He has a regular menu posted up on the side of his converted horse-box and every session he has at least one special and they can indeed be very special. The regulars include Margherita and Pepperoni, both very popular with the younger generation. Also in Newcestown, his Nduja (spicy salami on a Margherita base with fresh chilli, red onion and chilli oil) and his  Smoked Scamorza cheese (again on a Margherita base with roast piquillo peppers and West Cork Garlic scape pesto).

O'Mahony's and the horsebox

We were early and got ourselves one of the picnic tables by the pub. A week earlier, we'd have been able to take our pizzas inside. Still the sun was out as we sat down with the Nduja. We had enjoyed one of those in Barnabrow months ago and this lived up to the memory, absolutely top class with the occasional delicious hits from the Nduja itself.

Nduja

On then to the Scamorza. Another gem with the Italian cheese a star with the peppers and that garlic scape pesto also playing leading roles. Of course in all his pizzas, that base is out of this world, great for the taste buds and, as you can read below and in his social media, for the digestion. 

At the end of the second pizza, the rain started to come down and as the evening was also rather cold, we decided that discretion was the better part of valour and made a run for it. But not before Stuart boxed a third, the special, for us. We were wondering how it would survive the 40 minute spin home. 

But not a bother.  Just a few minutes in the oven and the Ardsallagh goats cheese on a Margherita base with artichokes and caramelised onion ketchup came up tasty trumps. Another beauty from the Scotsman. That super base, the artichokes adding juice and texture and their unique modest flavour to the pie and the ketchup also pitching in. 

Busy boys

So three pizzas on a Friday night and all three of the highest standard, a standard that you won't find in too many places on these islands. Skill, and attention to detail pays off, quality in quality out. Some very lucky villagers in West Cork.


Stuart confessed: "I’m a man obsessed with the Neapolitan way. Since the lockdown I’ve been doing them Wednesdays, Fridays, Sundays and they were very busy! Since everywhere opened up I’ve managed to keep a lot of regulars and there’s new customers coming so it’s still going very well!"

Goats cheese, artichoke

"The dough is made in the traditional Neapolitan way, so mixed the day before and is generally always kept at room temperature, normally for 24-30 hours. They have a really nice airy puffy crust, a little soft in the middle and are cooked for 60-90 seconds at 420-450 degrees c."


"I’m playing around with the actual fermentation, I was using a sourdough culture before but I’ve been using a (pre ferment) called poolish for the last few weeks and that has given great results. I’m going to try biga next, which is similar to the poolish method, but with half the amount of hydration in the pre ferment."


"I have an Italian supplier that is really passionate about his produce! The flour I’m using is Molino Spadoni PZ4. This flour mill is very well known for their quality in pasta flour, I would have used this in London. The mill is in Ravenna, northern Italy, and only uses Italian grains that are quality controlled and checked."



"The best thing is my supplier organises for me to get the flour straight from the mill now so it is super fresh. You can actually smell and see the difference when mixing the dough!!"


"I have a Sunmix mixer on order. This mixer is known for being one of the best you can buy. It can make and close the dough in 15 minutes so you are not overheating the dough with the friction. These are made to order in Italy. Fifteen long weeks I’ve been waiting so far but it is going to be well worth the wait!!"

The 400 year old village has some food history!


"The Fior Di Latte mozzarella is made in the Campania region - "The mother land of mozzarella" my supplier calls it. There are no chemicals in this cheese and the difference compared with most of the other mozzarellas I’ve tried is very noticeable. The cheese melts nicely and goes stringy when cooked in the high heat and doesn’t colour and go crispy!"



"The tomatoes are certified organic from a company down south of Italy called Manfuso; they have good ethics and all tomatoes are canned on the same day as harvest with no added salt."


"I also get organic extra virgin olive oil, so straight from the first press of organic olives and with no heat."


"Nduja and smoked Scamorza are both becoming well known with the folks here in West Cork and both are really good quality products."


"And then I have Ardsallagh goats cheese, I use West Cork garlic scapes for pesto, I got a load of scapes from him at the end of the season. I have Gubbeen chorizo on the options for weddings. I used Toonsbridge Stracciatella last week for a special, I got Asparagus from Drummond House for a few weeks on special so I’m just trying to work my way around the suppliers around the general area.

Toonsbridge stracciatella special


"The ovens I use are Gozney Roccbox. They are easily portable and a great product that are exceptionally good at keeping the high temperature inside the oven consistent at between 420-450c to get that Neapolitan crust. Especially when I’m busy!"


You'll see those little ovens mounted on the counter, that is if you can take your eyes off the busy chef as he assembles and cooks and talks all at the one time. As we were quite early, we were kind of wondering what all the action was about. But it turned out he gets quite a few advance orders for collections. 


Do watch out for those specials. I'll give you just two examples here.

1 - Braised Ham hock with smoked Scamorza cheese and portobello mushrooms and then finished with a honey mustard mayonnaise.

2 - Toonsbridge stracciatella with roccbox roasted tenderstem broccoli, gremolata and toasted almonds. "Really nice veggie pizza that packs a punch and full of flavour."


And you can check out others on his Insta page thecurlystu


And another thing to watch out for is his offer. All the pizzas are keenly priced but best of all is the standing offer of three for €22.00, terrific value for a family meal on a Friday, a Sunday, or a Wednesday!


The Curly Stu

085 196 0706

Monday, August 31, 2020

Dockland Delights. Encore.

Dockland Delights. Encore.

“Why don’t we come here more often?” We asked ourselves as we left Dockland after a delicious lunch on last week’s designated sunny day (Wednesday). There’s always a terrific welcome here - this time from the smiling younger generation - and always good food too, lots fo tempting variety in a longish inventive menu, at prices that won’t break the bank.

They have some seats outside but, having spent most of the morning in the open air we, hands sanitised and name taken, decided to take an inside table, one with a view of the sunny exterior. Soon the water and the menus were at hand and we were making choices.

Quite a few tables have been removed due to Covid19 so those outside seats come in handy. The reception/bar area is now mainly deli/takeaway, salads, sandwiches, sweet stuff and coffees, much of which may be ordered in advance for collection. There was a steady enough stream for that corner.

Dockland are noted for their salads and they feature strongly here in four tempting versions. For instance, there’s a Roasted Vegetable Couscous (turmeric, coriander, spiced yogurt, toasted almonds, roasted harissa oil). Pick that or any of the other three and you may choose 1,2, or 3 salads, all for €11.00. The other headings are Chickpea Salad, Dockland Coleslaw, and Roasted Broccoli. You may also add chicken or honey glazed ham to your choice for an extra three euro.

We were looking for something slightly more substantial on this occasion and so choose from the mains, over a dozen of them! Everything from toasties to a Seared Beef Salad and including Fish ’n Chips and a Chicken Burger.  The West Cork crab, with chives, lime, fresh chilli mayo, toasted sourdough, chive oil, smoked salmon and mixed leaves, drew the attention, along with a few more.

CL though came down in favour of Clonakilty Black Pudding salad, rustic potatoes, caramelised apples, crispy bacon, with mustard honey dressing (14.00). A lot going on there but no jarring contrasts, all elements pulling together in a harmonious ensemble, and a very satisfying lunch indeed.

And I too benefitted from that precision in gathering and matching and measuring quite a few ingredients into a palate pleasing whole as I tucked into Chargrilled Chicken, tomato fondue, Gubbeen chorizo, basil pesto, and olive mash (15.00). Every single element perfect, in both quality and quantity, all adding up to a very satisfied customer indeed. Oh by the way, they have a range of sides available also: chips, salad leaves (and their leaves are terrific), roasted vegetable couscous, chargrilled broccoli salad, creamy mash.

Inside looking out
And we have a tip for dessert for you! We were pointed in the direction of the Clementine Almond Cake, caramelised clementines, and cream. And we were a little wary as quite often cake can be so dry. But not here. This was exquisite, moist and sweet, easy to dispatch. A must-try whenever you’re in this lovely friendly city venue by the river.

Lapps Quay
Cork
Tel: (021) 427 3987












Monday, October 21, 2019

Holy Salads and Sandwiches at St Francis Provisions


Holy Salads and Sandwiches at St Francis Provisions
Super salad

There is a white tigín in Kinsale. It is the home of St Francis Provisions, a café com deli that is causing something of a stir in the town and beyond.

Hardly because of its size - it would be hard to squeeze twenty diners in here. Not because of its furniture: three basic 2-person tables and perhaps ten basic high stools. Not because of the ware, lots of odd plates here, some the worse for wear! So, why the fuss? It’s the food, stupid!

Take this glorious salad in the top photograph. “Perhaps the best salad ever,” according to first time customer CL who paid €9.50 for this colourful flavourful plate that is also seasonal and local. The tasty bounty of the season is deliciously expressed in the ever so pleasing melange of mixed leaves, fig, spelt, nuts and seeds, roasted parsnips, pumpkin and sweet potato, soft creamy cheese.

I’m also a St Francis novice and ordered one of the two daily sandwiches: Gubbeen pistachio salami, Gubbeen cheese, fig and ginger chutney on focaccia, served on their own focaccia. On advice from the kitchen - there are certain advantages in sitting at the counter - I had this toasted and this too was excellent, local produce expertly handled.
Apple & Blackberry Pie and, right, Sticky Orange Cake

By the way, the day we visited (Oct 9th) was the day that they finally became truly their own bakery with chef Darren Kennedy and baker Sarah Walsh adding the sourdough to their repertoire. The bar has been well and truly raised here and it’s a pleasure to see such a young enterprise (it opened at the start of the summer) progress so impressively under the direction of owner/manager Barbara Nealon, a woman from the Banner who arrived in Kinsale via San Francisco (hence the tigín’s name).

And the output of the ovens is spread across the counters, lots of tempting pastries, both big and small. My pick was the Sticky Orange Cake, sweet, moist and delicious, enhanced no end by a cup of the excellent Red Strand coffee.

Rock and roll was playing on the record player - it is all vinyl here boy - with a voice from my past knocking out “Here comes my baby. Here she comes now…” as we settled up, €27.00 in all, before stepping out in the sunlit Farmers Market (a mega shower had just finished).

It is not just lunch that they serve here. Breakfast is available from 8.45, brunch is well worth checking out on Saturdays and Sundays, and there’s a dinner service (with some superb wines) available every Friday and Saturday from 5.00pm. They are closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

Short Quay
Kinsale
Co. Cork
tel: 0830636879