Showing posts with label DORDOGNE. Show all posts
Showing posts with label DORDOGNE. Show all posts

Thursday, May 27, 2010

SATURDAY IN SARLAT (MAY 22nd)


This is planned as an easy day: marche, pool, lunch at gite, visit wine merchants nearby, dinner at gite (barbecue), Champions League final.
The Saturday market in Sarlat is huge: food, crafts, clothes, footwear.... two streets and connecting lanes, plus a square, all  full of stalls and people. We meet some very nice people: a young man that helps us choose melons for today, tomorrow and Monday; another young man in a shop where we get “strings” for my glasses and quite a few others, including a lady in a Tabac who doesn’t charge for a box of matches (for the barbecue).
We did pick up a souvenir or two but it was mainly food: strawberries (from a choice of three varieties), a pain complet, melons, mussels, and a couple of gorgeous pastries. Also spotted a traiteur with potential and we’ll be calling there after the weekend.
Back to the gite then for a dip in the pool followed by a lunch of mussels (we bought too many of them) followed by some of that bread with a local cows cheese.
Valette Foie Gras, 16 avenue Aristide Briand, 24200 Sarlat, 05 53 30 25 63.
Early in the afternoon found some handy shops within a few hundred yards of the gite, including a Lidl where German Pilsner was on sale for less than €3.00 for six 50cl bottles. Next door was a butcher with a huge selection and also a variety of readymade meals.
The gem though was Valette Foie Gras which, in addition to a massive selection of Foie Gras and related products, including chutneys and Cassoulets, has quite a range of local wines. I took the opportunity to make some progress on my list:
Madiran Cuvee de L’Ange 2005 €5.75;
Saussignac Chateau Tourmentine 50cl €13.30;
Cahors St Didier Parnac Prestige 2006 €6.00;
Pecharmant Chateau Tiregand 2007 €9.90;
Montravel Blanc Sec 2007 €6.70;
And, for this evening’s barbie, a Bergerac Blanc Sec Chateau Theulet 2008, €5.30.
Got their brochure on the way out, studying it at present and we’ll be calling there again.

By the way, that Bergerac Blanc went very well with the barbie and later still the introduction of a previously purchased Jurancon (Moelleux) went down very well with the dessert. It is a lovely medium sweet wine from the Basque country, also recommended as an aperitif or with the local foie gras and certain cheeses. Certainly, worth a look.

WEDNESDAY 25th CHATEAU DES MILANDES



DAY 12 Chateau Milandes
24250 Castelnaud-la-Chapelle
05 53 59 31 21
www.milandes.com
After a thunderstorm last night and the exertions of yesterday, a short trip was called for and, after lunch, we headed for Chateau des Milandes, the former residence of song and dance star Josephine Baker who died suddenly in 1975 during the run of a show celebrating her fifty years in show biz.
The American was a huge success sin Paris for much of the first half of the 20th century but never forgot her American roots and the discrimination against her fellow African Americans. She sacrificed contracts in the fight which saw her famously march in Washington in August 1963 with Dr Martin Luther King. Already she had made the Chateau a home for 10 boys and 2 girls of different nationalities.
The rooms in the Chateau, including her bedroom and bathroom, are among those on the tour and, in the Grand Salon, you see many of her famous costumes, also many photos and original drawings of her in the Folie Bergere.
A popular part of any visit to Milandes is the Birds of Prey Display under the charge of falconers Patrick and Steve. Birds put through their paces include a Kestrel Falcon, a Harris Hawk, a Barn Owl, an eagle owl, a falcons and an American fish eagle. Don’t miss the show, usually on twice in the afternoons, not always in the mornings.
No visit to France is complete without a call to Leclerc and no visit to a branch of that supermarket chain is complete without a call to the wine corner.  Further filled my shopping list by adding a Bergerac Moelluex, a few bottles of Buzet, some Fronsac, one Fronton (by error, maybe  a happy one) and finally a bottle of Banyul, the sweet fortified wine, like port, from the deep south.
The morning visit to the market, where purchases included a big lump of delicious Tomme de Perigord, a lovely cows cheese, ended with a call to a branch of the Valette chain where a purchase of Sarlanoix (liquor) ticked another box. Primary use is as an aperitif but we tend to use it with barbecued banana. Do your banana, quickly lay it on a layer of ice-cream and quickly add a tablespoon or two of Sarlanoix and then quickly eat it!

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

DAY 11 Gouffre de Padirac, Rocamadour

DAY 11 Gouffre de Padirac, Rocamadour

Gouffre de Padirac is one of the most visited places in France and takes your breath away. Via stairs and lifts, you descend almost 1000 feet before being taken on a boat trip through the magnificent galleries of this chasm.
Here you see the “Great Pendant” a 60 metre stalactite. After the boat, a circular tour, that includes some 84 steps, takes you  into and around the “Great Dome Room”. This is 94 metres high and here you see gorgeous lakes and more odd shapes of nature, including groups of beautiful stalagmites.
The visit costs about €9.20 for an adult and takes about ninety minutes. There is plenty of car parking in the area and also a share of restaurants which seem a euro or two dearer than elsewhere, maybe dearer even than those on the outskirts of the attraction.
It was in the middle of lunch time when we emerged and we sat down at the close at hand Restaurant Les Visiteurs where we each enjoyed Moules Frites (€11.50) and a Breton cider (€3.20). A thunderclap went off in the distance but the sun stayed shining in the area.
And it was still shining as we reached L’Hospitalet, the hamlet from which there is a great view, many say the best, of the medieval town, on three levels, of Rocamadour. The Chateau is on top, then the religious area and at the bottom, the housing of the workers, nowadays used as souvenir shops and artists’ workshops.
The Bunch of chapels that make up the middle area is quite impressive. Among others, we visited Chapelle Notre-Dame where, on the altar, sits the statue of the miraculous Black Virgin and Child.
It is tough on the legs around here but you may get refreshments along the way and some restaurants and bars have terraces overlooking the valley. Life is also made easier by the lifts that link the middle area with the bottom (€3.00 return) and with the Chateau.
Quite a tiring day! Now to hit Sarlat and see what the restaurants are serving. Most in the medieval centre are serving traditional fare – for the sake of variety we’ll have to get out of town one of these nights. In the end, settle for the Auberge Lys Or in place Andre Malruax (06 87 30 37 07).

From the 14 euro menu, we start with two salads, one a Maigret de Canard, and the other smoked salmon with a lemon sauce. Both okay, nothing special. Main course were Coq au Vin (house style) and Bavette de Boeuf with shallots. Again, each was fine without being outstanding (after all, this is the 14 euro menu).
Dessert was probably the best we’ve come across in this category menu. It was a lovely fresh fruit salad, mainly exotic fruits. A pichet (50cl) of Bordeaux rouge and an Espresso bought the total bill to €38.50.

VISIT TO MONBAZILLAC

DAY 10
Chateau de Monbazillac
24240 Monbazillac
05 53 61 52 52 and 05 53 63 65 00
An afternoon visit to the Chateau de Monbazillac was the highlight today.
But first, some housework: rubbish to be taken to the communal collection point a few yards up the road and then all the empty bottles to be deposited in the “banks” at the nearby Casino Supermarket.
Today being a bank holiday, not on the usual calendars, many places were closed but Casino was opened and I took the opportunity to add to our collection by purchasing a Chateau Larroque Bordeaux Sec 2009, a Chateau Peyrettaille Pecharmant 2007 and also a Chateau Menate Sauternes 2005.
From one sweet wine to another as we arrived at the Chateau de Monbazillac after a 70 km trip. Built around 1550, the chateau stands today almost exactly as when built by the AYDIE family more than four centuries ago. This was a very interesting visit indeed, highlights including the Grand Salon, the Mouney-Sully Hall, the Grand Staircase and the Hall of Bottles.
The world renowned vineyard was first cultivated in the 11th century and is famous for using “the noble rot” method to make its sweet wines which draw thousands of visitors every year. We availed of the tasting service, naturally, and purchased some of the golden nectar along with some Bergerac Rouge and Bergerac Sec.
“In entering this place, you are entering a part of the History of France”. So says one of the chateau’s leaflets. Today, the Wine Cooperative of Monbazillac owns the chateau and makes every effort to look after the monument and open it as much as possible to visitors. For €6.40, we thought it was very good value indeed.

LUNCH IN SARLAT

Walked in to the centre of Sarlat around noon today. They were getting ready for the start of La Ringueta, Fete des Jeux Traditionnels: all kinds of games, climbing greasy poles, a type of table football played with wooden “hitters” and a round piece of timber as the ball, spinning tops and many more.

Pigs were roasting on the huge barbecues, to become part of a 13 euro meal. But we didn’t wait, headed for L’Orangerie in the shade of hits huge “awning” to take their 14 euro four course menu. With duck confit for the main course, we had an enjoyable meal and headed back to the fun and games which were starting officially at two o’clock.
The crowds were now well up, all fed, and the fun had started. We enjoyed walking around and looking at all the pre-computer activities and we especially enjoyed the lively efforts of a noisy band that didn’t confine themselves to the one spot but moved through the length of the fete.
Later, in the afternoon we headed back to the gite to take a break and cool down in the pool. Later, we enjoyed a pork chop barbecue

Saturday, May 22, 2010

MASSIVE SALAD and later COQ AU VIN

Restaurant Cote Jardin
Sarl Des Charmes, 24590 Eyrignac
05 53 30 22 56
If you are in the Eyrignac area, perhaps having just visited the gardens, and are looking for lunch then the Cote Jardin is just at hand.
We stopped there today and ordered a Salade Paysanne (€9.00) each, also a Stella Artois and a bottle Breton cider (€2.50 each for 25 cls). The Salad was a mountain! Loads of lettuce, lardons, crutons, walnuts, hard-boiled egg, tomatoes and tasty melon. The crutons weren’t great but overall it was a fine feed with good service despite a big crowd being in.
Eglise Sainte Martin (Soulliac)
In the ancient church of Sainte Martin in Souillac we visited an art exhibition. Just as well the 11th/12th century church was “desaffectee en 1829" as some of the art was rather racy. It was a mixture of photography, painting and sculpture. Pieces were reasonably priced but I didn’t see anything that I liked enough to purchase. Exhibitions continue throughout the summer here and the tourist office for this small and pleasant town is also located here.
Musee De L’automate
Europe’s largest “automata” exhibition is in the abbey of Souillac. It has some 300 pieces, mostly from the 19th and 20th century. Admission is six euro and is worth a visit particularly if you have kids in tow.
Our favourite was Charlie Chaplin, hanging onto a lamppost and cheekily trying to kick his way out of his glass cabinet. A jazz band in action and a man with an uncontrollable laugh also brought enjoyment.

Restaurant Auberge De Mirandol ....
Strolled up through Sarlat looking at the menus this evening and again concluded that Auberge de Mirandol was the place for us. All the others offer the standard local fare, foie gras and confit. Mirandol does as well but there are more choices on its set menus and we like the place and the people serving there.
We get a table on the margin of indoors and out and settle for the €13.50 menu. Started with Jambon de Pays with Salad, a tasty chew, perhaps a bit too chewy for some.
I enjoyed my main course of beautifully done Duck Breast with tasty local potatoes and green beans. The beans and potatoes also accompanied the other main dish, a terrific Coq au Vin (and yes there was loads of red wine in the sauce!).
Then followed the usual goats cheese course, Rocamadour with salad. Dessert was a modest lemon tart (slice) with cold custard and a crème brulee.
Water is usually from the tap and free in French restaurants though you may of course buy bottled water. Our wine was Mirandol’s Wine of the Month:  Chateau Le Coustarelle, La Cassot, Cahors 2005, a terrific red for €14.00 per bottle.
For things to see and do in the Dordogne see http://swissroll07.blogspot.com/
Photos: Massive salad and, top, Sarlat in evening

Friday, May 21, 2010

RESTAURANT COTE JARDIN


RESTAURANT COTE JARDIN
Sarl Des Charmes, 24590 Eyricnac
05 53 30 22 56
If you are in the Eyricnac area, perhaps having just visited the gardens, and are looking for lunch then the Cote Jardin is just at hand.
We stopped there today and ordered a Salade Paysanne (€9.00) each, also a Stella Artois and a Breton cider (€2.50 each for 25 cls). The Salad was a mountain! Loads of lettuce, lardons, crutons, walnuts, hard-boiled egg, tomatoes and tasty melon. The crutons weren’t great but overall it was a fine feed with good service despite a big crowd being in.

Picture: Salad & Cider

Check out my review of RESTAURANT COTE JARDIN - I am cork - on Qype

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

SARLAT MARKET

SARLAT MARKET
Got our first taste of the twice weekly Sarlat Market this morning. It was busy, tourists mixing with the locals in the medieval quarter.
We enjoyed our own tour, buying some fish (Julienne) and also a Salmon Pizza from the same stall. Also bought some vegetables and fruit and sampled a few bits and pieces before walking over to the “main” street to call to a mini-market where we got some olive oil for cooking. Of course, we couldn’t resist passing a patisserie where we helped ourselves to a couple of strawberry tartlets.
Lunch at the Gite consisted mainly of cheese and beautiful tomatoes before we made the short trip to the “hanging Gardens of Marqueyssac” overlooking the Dordogne and La Roque Gageac.
Info: Jardins de Marqueyssac, 24220 Vezac. Tel: 05 53 31 36 36; www.marqueyssac.com.
After extensive restoration work, Marqueyssac was opened to the public in 1997 and is now the most visited garden in Perigord. A “folly of clipped boxwoods” is the main feature of the place along with excellent views over the Dordogne. There is an easy (high heels and buggies) and a more difficult path around the “overhanging gardens”.
The main viewing point is the Belvedere, some 800 metres from the chateau. It affords an exceptional panoramic view of the river and surroundings.  The amazing topiary, along with the stunning views, which include nearby castles, make it well worth the €7.30 entrance fee. The visit will take you about ninety minutes, maybe more if you want to linger for a snack and a visit the shop.
Stayed in for dinner this evening. Starter: Melon. Main Course: Julienne (a white fish like hake) served with a salad. Dessert: Strawberry tartlets with fresh strawberries. Wine: Gaillac, from some of the oldest vineyards (quite close to Sarlat) in France. Our dry white, ideal for fish, is made from unusual grapes:  Mauzac and Loin de l’Oeil and has 11.5 per cent alcohol. The region also produces reds, roses and sparkling whites. We were very happy indeed with our white.

For things to see and do in the Dordogne seehttp://swissroll07.blogspot.com/

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

L'Orangerie in Sarlat la Canéda


Sarlat la Caneda


Restaurant L’Orangerie
3 rue Alberic Cahuet
24200 Sarlat
05 53 31 88 03 orangie2009@hotmail.fr

After the previous evening’s stuffing at Mirandol, we didn’t want Foie Gras again. But both it and confit de canard are hard to avoid in this town. L’Orangerie promised something of a change so we took a table in the open air.
Starters were six Escargots (with garlic) pour moi and Chicken Gizzards and Liver with a salad for the Advisor. Both of us were very pleased as this €14.00 four course menu kicked off.
Both of us choose the Breast of Duck with Sarlat potatoes and small herbie mash and with a honey and orange sauce. Really classy meal served in the open air of this medieval quarter.
The cheese was once again the Rocamadour goats cheese and a little green salad with some little pieces of walnuts. Quite enjoyable but this too seems to pop up on all the menus. Desserts were a lemon tart for herself and walnut tart for me with custard. Both were quiet enjoyable.
They had a decent wine list and we picked a 50 cl carafe f local Bergerac rouge which cost €8.50. Total bill therefore came to €36.50!

Check out my review of L'Orangerie - I am cork - on Qype

AUBERGE DE MIRANDOL

AUBERGE DE MIRANDOL
Started with a walk down town to the historic heart of Sarlat. Checked out the many restaurants on our way before stopping at the market in the Church of Sainte Marie, mainly artisan stuff. Helped ourselves to a chunk of white cow’s milk cheese and a punnet of strawberries which went a long way towards lunch at the gite.
In the afternoon, we visited the famous Lascaux 11 cave, a replica of much of Lascaux 1, which has long been closed to the public. The facsimile reproduces most of the pre-historic art which was made some 70000 years ago. The visit is most impressive, leaves you speechless. You could also be lost for words if you arrive at the site, expecting to buy entrance tickets. For some reason, these (€8.80 each) are on sale in the nearby town of Montignac.
After a glass or two with our friendly hosts, we headed into the centre of Sarlat for dinner. Thanks to a recommendation from Milos we made for the Auberge de Mirandol. The recent €25.00 four course offer in Cork was quite a success but we got four courses (not including tea/coffee) for €13.50. Incredible value and, afterwards, we got to visit the restaurant’s own natural cave at the back of the premises, which itself is a historic monument.
Starter – there was a choice of two – was Foie Gras demi-cuit with three different sweet spoonfuls including Monbazillac marmalade. Milos had recommended this and also the main course: a cassoulet with confit de canard. Both courses were excellent.
Then came the cheese course, the local Rocamadour goats cheese accompanied by a nice salad. Very tasty indeed and we finished off with dessert, one a slice of tarte au citron, the other a slice of apple tart, both gorgeous.
Wine was also from the locality, a Percharmant by Chateau de Tiregand Comtesse de St Expury 2007. We got a 50cl carafe and it cost us €15.00.Tiergard is one of the top producers of this “subtle and supple” wine made from Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Medium to full bodied, Robert Joseph rates it “an ideal accompaniment to the traditional Perigord cuisine” and we agree!
Picture shows Sarlat late evening