Showing posts with label California. Show all posts
Showing posts with label California. Show all posts

Thursday, February 4, 2016

California Wines – Less is More; The Golden State at Ballymaloe

California Wines – Less is More
The Golden State at Ballymaloe
Grainstore at Ballymaloe


California Wines will be visiting East Cork on Wednesday, 9th March for a
tasting of California Wines. Liam Campbell, wine editor of The Irish
Independent, will conduct the seminar. Ballymaloe House will host the
tasting in The Grainstore at Ballymaloe.


The theme of the evening will be: California Wines - Less is More -
reflecting the new evolving style of more subtle flavours and balancing
alcohol. Less is More will focus in particular on Sonoma and Carneros,
because, as the coolest subzones, they are excellent examples of elegant
style, with their Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs - among the most foodfriendly
and versatile of grape varietals.


The California Wines Tasting takes place in The Grainstore at Ballymaloe
House from 7 – 8.30pm on the evening of Wednesday 9th March. Liam
will guide his guests through eight elegant wines and explain why they
work well with suggested food pairings.


Tickets for the event are €10, including tastings and canapes, and available directly from Ballymaloe
House. Please book early to avoid disappointment. Please contact
Ballymaloe Tel 021 4652531 colm@ballymaloe.ie www.ballymaloe.ie

Press release

Wednesday, November 25, 2015

California Cheering. Star Reds: Predator and Rhiannon

California Cheering
Star Reds: Predator and Rhiannon


Rutherford Wines Predator Old Vine Zinfandel 2013, 14%, €25.99
(Stockists: independents including D6 Wines, Donnybrook Fair, Clontarf Wines, Matsons Cork & Bandon, Ardkeen Waterford.)


The cup that cheers comes from the California, not quite from the West Coast but from inland Lodi, known locally as the Capital of Zinfandel mainly because there are some two thousand acres of Zinfandel old vine planted here.


Colour of the Predator is violet and so so bright and healthy looking. The berries are prominent in the inviting aromas. Colour and aromas may well lead one to believe this is a lightweight. But the first attack, rich and full of flavour, announces that this a serious wine. Aged in French and American oak, it has fruit and spice and fine tannins too, a delightful balance and a lingering finish and is Very Highly Recommended.

You don't see Zin very often around here but you have more than likely heard of it. It is the red grape of California, even if it apparently came from Croatia via Italy (Primitivo). Wines from the old vines have more flavour and intensity. For a Californian viewpoint, check here.

The Predator refers not to some large monster of the place but to the humble Ladybird (Ladybug in Lodi). This little bug is encouraged in the vineyard and rewards the winemakers by feasting on the destructive aphids, one of many eco-friendly strategies adopted by Rutherford Wines.
Speaking of feasting, they recommended trying it (the wine, not the Ladybird!) with short ribs or a juicy burger. My tip (from experience!) is Poulet Basquaise.

Rutherford Wine Rhiannon 2012 red (California) 13.5%, €25.99.
(Stockists: independents including D6 Wines, Donnybrook Fair, Clontarf Wines, Matsons Cork & Bandon, Ardkeen Waterford.)


This is a blend of Petite Sirah (44%), Syrah (42%), and Barbera (14%); proportions can vary from vintage to vintage. The Petite Sirah is a half brother of the Syrah and the Petite refers to its grape size.


Deep ruby is the colour and there are quite intense aromas (cherry, blackberry). Rounded fruit flavours in the palate, tannins too; it is smooth and elegant with a lush mouthfeel, beautifully balanced and with a long finish. Continuous pleasure from vibrant start to refined finalé. Complex, yet so approachable. Very Highly Recommended.


Rhiannon was a Celtic goddess - magical birds and horses featured in her portfolio - and she is used here “in homage to our family’s Welsh roots”.  Use it to accompany grilled meats and chicken. Divinely (of course!) delicious as a glass on its own.

Monday, May 18, 2015

Miguel Torres: Message in a Bottle

Miguel Torres: Message in a Bottle



The more we care about the earth, the better our wine.

Climate change pops up in conversation and some people switch off - nothing to do with me. That’s not the way the Torres wine family see it. With the opening sentence above as motto, they are doing something about it with a programme called Torres and Earth.

Miguel Torres, one of the family’s fifth generation, was in Dublin's Westbury Hotel last week for a tasting but first he spoke of the family and the threats from climate change that it is seeing “more and more”. “Vineyards are very much at risk. Hailstorms are an example.”

Torres are well known for their concern for “the earth and its resources, not only for this generation, but also for future generations”. Climate change has heightened their concern and led to a continuing drive for improved sustainability. For instance they have devised a method of turning vine cuttings into a source of energy, are using solar panels for much the same purpose and have a 2020 target of reducing CO2 emission per bottle by 30% by comparison with 2008.
The Torres family
Fair Trade has long been a Torres concern, beginning soon after their 1979 start in Chile. Miguel explained that Fair Trade was good for their growers there and also for the company itself. If they hadn’t paid a fair price for the grapes, the children of their growers would have left for the cities as has happened elsewhere. Now, seeing their parents fairly paid for their work, enough children stay behind to ensure the future. Torres was the first private company in Chile to be designated Fair Trade.

Back to their base in Catalonia and here they have “recuperated ancient Catalan varieties, 38 in all. Not all are good but six are top quality, very well adapted to a hot and dry climate”. Torres are also experimenting with growing vines at higher levels.

And then there is the never ending problem of disease. Indeed some diseases, particularly fungal, may be due to modern machinery which are rough on the vines. I think we in Ireland have seen that in the way modern machines “batter” the roadside hedges in the process of trimming them. Miguel detailed some trunk diseases, possibly facilitated by the rough "handling" by machines, and said they were working towards a cure. Obviously others are too and he said “one treatment to cure all would be in great demand!”.

Miguel said that while Torres “have lots of vineyards, it is the people that are important. We have 1300 people, a team". The family are of course part of that team. He also said that people buying wine should rely more than the winemaker rather than the appellation. “An appellation can produce some great wines but also some terrible ones’.
Torres in Chile
 “We are very much into organic viticulture, being so aware of global warming. Today's decisions will have to be dealt with down the line.”


Torres are not interested in expanding beyond what the family can handle. “We want to continue as a family, pass it on to the next generation”. One of the benefits of this, at least in the Torres case, is that no less than 95% of profit is re-invested, much of it in research.

They are of course a Spanish family. “Penedes is our hometown and by the way, watch out for a new wine from here next year. It will be called Purgatory, not because we are sinners!”


Torres in California
He called his aunt Marimar an inspiration. She helped boost sales in the US from 1975 and now runs the 57 hectare Marimar Estate in California's Russian River valley, producing mainly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines, all organic with a focus now on biodynamic.

“Chile is an ideal country for wine,” said Miguel. “All our vineyards, total 400 hectares, are organic.” They began here in 1979. His father and grandfather brought in the first stainless steel tanks, along with the first new oak casks in over forty years, to revolutionise the industry there. In recognition of that and their long-term commitment, the Chilean government presented Miguel A Torres with the Order of Bernardo O’Higgins in 1996.

There have also been major honours for the family in Catalonia. It seems they contribute wherever they are. The earth could do with more companies like this.

The Bottles
Frustration ran high in the Torres stronghold of Penedes in the late 70s. They were producing what they thought were great wines but where was the recognition?

Then  came the breakthrough, in Paris of all places. Torres entered their Gran Coronas Mas la Plana into the 1979 Gault-Millau blind tasting Wine Olympiad and it won, leaving wines like Chateau Latour and Chateau Haut-Brion behind. The win gave Torres the recognition it craved and the confidence to take on the world.

And from that same 29 hectares vineyard, we had the Mas la Plana 2010, a 100 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, full of freshness, fruit and spice. Miguel said this was a great wine to celebrate its 40th anniversary - the wine that won in Paris was from 1970.
You could taste why Miguel would be proud of this one but perhaps he was just that little bit prouder of the next, the final red of the tasting. This was the Grans Muralles 2004 and the extra pride was because this was composed of Spanish varieties, including two of those “recuperated”. The two are GarrĂł and SamsĂł and the other varieties are Monastrell, Garnacha Tinta and CariĹ„ena, all of them planted within the walls of this single vineyard, dating from the Middle Ages. The wine is full of character and complex. “Still young with a long life ahead”.

Before these two, I had more or less settled on the Salmos 2012, from their Priorat vineyards, as my favorite. Priorat is one of the smallest appellations and the wine is named after the psalms the original monks sang (they weren’t allowed to talk).

It is a blend from two vineyards, one at 200 metres, the other at 500 (for the Carińena). The other varieties are Garnacha Tinta and Syrah.

CariĹ„ena is becoming increasingly important and, for its contribution to colour and acidity, is being used in this particular wine in “increasing proportion and could be a key variety in the future of Priorat.” Just loved its fruit, spice and acidity, suited me very well indeed.

We had started the reds with quite a lovely Tempranillo, the Celeste 2012 from Ribera del Duero. It is made in a Rioja style but is less acidic. It is a light red yet quite complex and “delivers the fruit very well, tannins yes, but quite elegant”.


Miquel in the cellar
Then we went down to Chile for the next red, the Cordillera Carignan 2009 from the Maule Valley. By the way, Miguel advised going to the south of Chile if you do get a chance to visit. The original Carignan vineyards had been abandoned but Torres pruned them and started producing again. This is a very good example, fresh fruit and acidity, tannins, a little spice with a good finish. “Not heavy, but fresh!”


While we sampled the final white, the Jean Leon Vinya Gigi Chardonnay 2013 (Penedes), Miguel revealed that the first Chardonnay vines were “smuggled” into Penedes and, after a struggle, were eventually recognized for appellation purposes. Aromas of tropical fruit with an unctuous creamy palate and a long finish makes this a little bit special.

Another Chardonnay, from the Limari Valley in Chile, had preceded this one. It has been aged for 7 months in French oak (30% new, 70% second year). They are decreasing the oak though. “In Chile, the nicest thing you have is the fruit - no need for make-up!”, said Miguel. “We are trying to keep the acidity and freshness”. And it is fresh with good acidity, great flavor and a little spice. I think I may have a slight preference for this over the Jean Leon.


Priorat

We had started with two grapes that I enjoy: Verdejo and Albarino. First up was the Verdeo 2014 from Rueda. No wood used here at all. The vintage had been “cool”. This was very aromatic and beautifully fresh.

The 2013 Albarino came from Pazo das Bruxas (bruxas means witches!) in Rias Baixas where the grape “is a key variety”. Some grapes for this come from close to the coast (for better acidity), some from a little bit inland (for the body). “You can get red apple here; it has good density and finish”. He told us that Albarino can age well, 7 or 8 years, and can get more complex. This is excellent as it is, with great freshness and flavour.


I know I've picked Salmos as a favourite but to be honest I wouldn't like to leave any of these behind me. It was a great set from Torres. So muchas gracias to Miguel for the talk and the wines and to Findlaters for bringing it all together.


Whites:
Verdeo 2014 (Rueda)
Pazo das Bruxas 2013 (Rias Baixas)
Cordillera Chardonnay 2012 (Limari Valley)
Jean Leon Vinya Gigi Chardonnay 2013 (Penedes)

Reds:
Celeste 2012 (Ribera del Duero)
Cordillera Carignan 2009 (Maule Valley)
Salmos 2012 (Priorat)
Mas la Plana 2010 (Penedes)
Grans Muralles 2004 (Conca de Barbera)

Tuesday, December 18, 2012

Yellow Pearl & an Irish Vineyard

Wohlmuth Gelber Muskateller Steinriegel (Austria) 2011, 12.5%, €14.72 Karwig Wines

Yellow is the colour of my true love’s hair
In the morning when we rise..

Yellow (Gelber) is also the colour of this gorgeous aromatic Austria wine, the grapes for which are hard won from very steep slopes (up to 78%). The soil is a red slate in this vineyard which has been referred to, for centuries, as the best in Styria. The Muskateller is an ancient variety and the fruit is harvested very late and is handpicked.

It is more light gold than yellow and you’ll see hints of green. The aromas are quite fragrant. It has a gorgeous mouthfeel, no shortage of fruit. Indeed it is excellent from the intro to the long dry finish. Quite a gem by one of the area’s top producers and highly recommended.

The Irish Vineyard – No Kidding!
Many of you, especially the Cork contingent, will be familiar with the Blarney Blonde, an ale by the Franciscan Well. But how many of you about the Blarney Red, the Blarney White, the Kilkenny Red and the Kilkenny White not to mention Pog mo Thoin.

Not beers but wines and they are produced in California by Irish Vineyards www.IrishVineyards.com. Could hardly believe it when I stumbled on the site. Apparently it, the vineyard, was set up by the Murphy boys in 1849. Nowadays it is owned by Russell and Joan Irish and you’ll find them in Vallecito, California!


Tuesday, May 1, 2012

California in a bottle


California in a bottle

The Sunshine State came to Jacobs on the Mall on Monday. No sunshine but an array of classy wines, everything from white and red Zinfandel to a MĂ©nage a Trois (a blend of Zin, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon).
Fionn Little (l) and Paul Kiernan at Bubble Bros.

 Cork’s own Bubble Brothers, represented by Paul Kiernan and Fionn Little, didn’t have a big line-up but did have a very strong one, including some terrific Cabernet Sauvignon.

Having enjoyed their Cycles Gladiator Pinot Noir 2009, I moved into food wine territory with the same producer’s 2008 Cab Sauv, smooth and spicy, retailing at about €15.00.

Then up another notch to the smooth and velvety Hahn Estates 2007 Cab Sauv (€22.00) before finishing off here with the excellent Smith and Hook 2006, a fantastic wine priced accordingly at €38.00.

Met Paul O’Flynn and Mark Redmond at the Fevre stand and they introduced me to a set of excellent Chardonnays, including the Parducci, Mendocino County 2006 and the top Cakebread Cellars 2010, from the renowned Napa Valley, retailing at about €30.00.

Stephen Morrissey (Barry and Fitzwilliam)
and Laura McGlynn (Findlater)
Also called to the popular Classic Drinks stand. Their entry level Round Hill Oak Free Chardonnay and Spirit Hawk Pinot Grigio were impressive as was the Rutherford Ranch Chardonnay 2009. The highlight for me was the classy Scott Family Pinot Noir 2008, rich and fruity with  smooth tannins and long finish.

Stephen Morrissey of Barry and Fitzwilliam was, as always, friendly, helpful and courteous. He had a couple of beauties on the stand. For me the best of the whites was the Robert Mondavi Twin Oaks Chardonnay 2009 while the Mondavi Pinot Noir 2008 was one of the very best overall. It weighs in at a powerful 15.5% and sells for something just over twenty euro. One to watch out for.

Nice also to meet up with Laura McGlynn of Findlater.  Must say that the Marimar Estate Chardonnay from the organic Don Miguel vineyard in the Russian River Valley was perhaps the best white in the room. It is named the Acero, the Spanish word for steel, and is their way of saying it is unoaked. It is bright, fresh and vibrant and so easy to drink but will set you back around €35.00.

Findlater’s reds weren’t half bad either and a favourite was the MĂ©nage a Trois, which has seen French and American oak. The wine maker’s notes: “...exposes the fresh, red, ripe, jam like fruit that is the calling card f California wine. Forward, silky and soft, this delicious dalliance makes the perfect accompaniment for frilled meats or chicken.” Couldn’t put it better myself.
Fevre's Paul O'Flynn (l)
and Mark Redmond.

There were a couple of terrific wines on the Tindal stand where the quality of information was top notch as usual. Enjoyed a couple of high class whites here, starting with the terrific perfectly balanced Baileyana Grand Firepeak Cuvee Chardonnay, Edna Valley 2008.

Thought that was good but then followed the five star Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Chardonnay 2009, “one of the few California Chardonnays that behaves like a Grand Cru Chablis”. Intense and rich, but with matching acidity. Wow!

Last year, worked my way through many Zins but didn’t touch one this time. Think I’ll be drawing up a shortlist of Californian wines and the sub headings for 2012 will be Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Thanks to Justine Adam and her crew and all the exhibitors for a very enjoyable afternoon and if I missed out on any of your star favourites – I probably did - just let me know and I’ll keep an eye out for it.

Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Wine Institute of California returns to Cork


The Wine Institute of California are returning for their Annual Cork Wine Tasting.  The trade tasting will be held on Monday 30th April from 1.30pm to 5pm  at the stunning Jacobs on the Mall Restaurant, South Mall, Cork City.  Followed by a consumer event from 6pm - 7.30pm at Jacobs, in conjunction with Easy Food Magazine.

Most of the big Names in California Wines will be present on the day including: Beringer, Chateau Montelena, E & J Gallo Winery, Hahn Estate, Robert Mondavi, Rutherford Ranch, Stags Leap and Sutter Home. 

Monday 30th April - Jacobs on the Mall.

Thursday, August 11, 2011

KINSALE'S WINE MUSEUM



KINSALE’S WINE MUSEUM
At Desmond Castle
St Patrick sipping!

In the church of St Patrice in Rouen (France), there is a 16th century stained glass window* showing the Irish patron saint having a glass of wine at Tara in 433 while the High King looks on anxiously. Maybe it’s the King’s glass?

On the 17th of October, 1710, Jonathan Swift wrote to Stella from London: “I dined today with your Mr Sterne ...and drank Irish wine”.

In 1780, John Windham recalled visiting Cork city: “There are no hackney coaches but there are plenty of chairs or sedans. ...These vehicles are extremely convenient for the followers of Bacchus who has a great number of votaries in this city.”

These anecdotes show that there has been a long association between wine and the Irish so it is no surprise that the Irish went abroad some of them became involved in the trade. The most recent example I came across is the late Michael Lynch in Argentina’s Mendoza.

Loads of similar info is in the Wine Museum in Kinsale’s Desmond Castle. Maybe not the efforts of Michael Lynch, but virtually every other Irish connection, certainly before 2000 when the museum was set up, is very well covered indeed and great credit here goes to Ted Murphy, the Corkman who put it all together.

Many of you will know of the Cork family Hennessey who ended up in Bordeaux, the very same family whose name still appears on Ireland’s most popular cognac (brandy). But did you know that we were also involved in the sherry trade? Terry, for example.

The French connection is strong (and getting stronger in places like Provence and the Languedoc) but the Irish were also involved in wine in America, Cronins and Foleys in California for example.

And not just North America. Some of you may be familiar with the popular Chilean wine: St Rita 120. In the early 19th century, freedom fighter General Barnardo Higgins (father from Sligo) and 120 of his men (including General John McKenna, another Irishman) took refuge in the St Rita cellars during the battle of Rancagua. The wine is named in their honour.

Many many connections and loads of interesting facts and also some memorabilia. I could go on and on but, in fairness to Mr Murphy, I think anyone interested in wine should take a trip down to Kinsale and take your time as you wander through the two rooms that make up this museum. Highly recommended and the admission at three euro wouldn’t buy you a glass of wine in any of the town's restaurants.

The three euro will also get you into the castle which was originally built about 1500 as the Kinsale Customs House, one of its tasks being to collect a tax based on the tonnage and quality of the wine. In 1497, the English king granted the local Earl of Desmond the right to take one cask from every shipment for himself!

Occupied by the Spanish during the Siege of Kinsale in 1601, the most famous event in the castle’s history came in 1747 when 54 prisoners died in a fire. Most of them were French seamen and the castle later became known as the French prison.

·          There is a reproduction (photo above) of the window in the museum, donated by the Irish John and Eithne Lagan of the Xanadu Winery (Margaret River, Aus.). By the way, I love their Next of Kin wines (available via Bubble Brothers).


Wednesday, April 6, 2011

CALIFORNIA TASTING

ZIG ZAG ZIN
Zig Zag Zin was just one many Zinfandels tasted at Jacobs On the Mall who, on Monday afternoon, hosted a tasting for the Wine Institute of California.
The Zin is the grape most associated with the huge West Coast wine industry. Monday’s selections were excellent though I must say I really liked the Beringer Founders 14.5% on the Febvre stand where Peter Corr was an excellent host.
Left to r: Peter Corr (Febvre), Kevin Crowley (Fenn's Quay) and Maurice O'Mahony (Wine Alliance)

They also had the Cake Bread Cabernet Sauvignon, one of the most