A Duo of Delicious Whites: Riesling and Grüner Veltliner

A Duo of Delicious Whites: Riesling and Grüner Veltliner

Lingenfelder Riesling Trocken Kabinett Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel Pfalz (DP), 11%, €19.95  O’Briens Wines 

“Straightforward and elegant,” is how Georg Lingenfelder described this wine while speaking in Cork late last year. Georg represents the 14th generation of the family in wine in the Pfalz and this year is their 500th anniversary!

The 2018 is a straw yellow in colour. It certainly has the typical Riesling aromas (citrus-y). 'Trocken' on the label means this is a dry Riesling, yet it bursts with bright citrus and red apple fruit, all the time remaining elegant with a stony minerality, a high acidity and a lemon-fresh finish. Very Highly Recommended.

Georg told us that Pfalz is in the south west of Germany. “One of the driest and warmest areas but still a cool climate. Wines can be more full bodied here in good years. 2018 was warm and dry and some of the 2018 are not too heavy. All hand-picked, all wild fermented, we rely on the natural yeasts that are all around our cellar.” 

The wines with the Lingenfelder’s house on the front label are single plot. This Riesling has the house on the front, so the fruit came from a single plot, quite a small one in this case. “We are right next to the Rhine but our vineyards are not too steep - easier to work there. We use sustainable methods, lots of other plants between the rows. This gives bio diversity, very important to us.”

Georg is enthusiastic about local and authenticity. And the commitment continues so that the next 14 generations “get a chance to live off the land as well; without herbicides, without irrigation, only minimal fertilisation and lots of biodiversity”. And we, the consumers, get the opportunity to drink excellent wines like this one.

Steininger Grüner Veltliner Kamptal (DAC) 2018, €17.25 Wines Direct

This Grüner Veltliner (Gru-Vee) is a light golden yellow. Ripe apples aromas, herbal notes too. Juicy fruity (melon) on the palate, with crisp acidity, complex and elegant all the way through to the minerally finish. This harmonious easy-drinking wine is Very Highly Recommended. Well priced too, by the way.

Importers Wines Direct suggest pairing it with Rich Fish, Light Fish and Shellfish, Hard Cheese, Fresh Greens. In fact, Gru-Vee is very versatile at the table. 

Not too long back, I was impressed by the way it handled a dish of Fresh monkfish, Malaysian noodles, pancetta, chilli and black pepper jam and julienne of vegetables in Jacques (one of our top local restaurants). 

And it also married amazingly well with Halibut, Sea Radish, Bacon, Pepper Dulse and Elf Cap in Greene’s (another classy Cork venue); lots of flavours in both dishes but no bother to the Steininger.

This wine is indeed an excellent ambassador for Grüner Veltliner from the Kamptal. The winemakers say the Kamptal’s three types of soil (primordial rock, loess and clay), are ideal for Grüner Veltliner, Riesling and Zweigelt. 

The climate too, of course, not to mention the family. “The vine absorbs these impressions and reflects them in the wine and gives each wine its personality and character. Behind every wine are also the people. Making good wine is a way of life, as well as a fascinating task. You need experience and a lot of feeling.”

#DrinkResponsibly

Top-notch Gru-Vee on the double from Blank Canvas and Fred Loimer

Top-notch Gru-Vee on the double

 from Blank Canvas and Fred Loimer

Blank Canvas Grüner Veltliner Marlborough (2013), 13%,

 €22.99 WINEONLINE.IE LTD; Ely Wine Store, Maynooth; The Corkscrew

Colour is quite a rich gold, with the odd flash of green. Aromas are also strong (yet restrained), exotic fruits (mandarin is mentioned on the label). White pepper also mentioned but didn’t get that, though there was a teeny hint of the diesel one normally finds in Riesling. That spice is certainly present on the fulsome palate along with stunning fruit (mandarin, peach), an amazing mouthful, and an equally amazing and long-lasting finish. Very Highly Recommended.

Experienced winemaker Matt Thompson and partner Sophie Parker-Thomson are the duo behind Blank Canvas and they conducted a recent zoomed masterclass for Liberty Wines. Grüner Veltliner is a relative newcomer to the Blank Canvas portfolio. “It’s fun to make it, totally different,” enthused Sophie. Oak has been used but they affirm that “the subtle influence of new and seasoned French oak puncheons .. provide weight and texture”.

And you may well come across that GV pepper in their Syrah which is co-fermented with 7.5% Grüner Veltliner skins. Matt: “I preferred the white pepper character of the Grüner to the riper Viognier fruit.”

Matt continued: “When I discovered Grüner Veltliner was available for planting in New Zealand, I jumped at the chance to be among the first to produce it. Looking at the similarities between the Austrian and Marlborough climates I know this was a very exciting opportunity not to be missed.”  

The Thompsons have no vineyards, yet, and they choose very carefully where and who they work with. Note too that all their wines are single vineyard.

Check out more details from the interesting Black Canvas masterclass here…. Some very interesting remarks on the use of sulphur.

Loimer “Lois” Grüner Veltliner 2018, 11.5%, 

€18.70 WINEONLINE.IE LTD. The Wine Centre, Kilkenny. Ely Wine Store, Maynooth. The Corkscrew

Colour is an attractive light to mid gold. Moderately intense aromas, fruit (apple, peach) and a herbal spice. Spice and fruit too on the lively palate where a bracing acidity makes the taste buds stand up and pay attention. Very refreshing and Very Highly Recommended.

Interestingly, Fred Loimer uses oak also but to a much lesser extent than Blank Canvas. Here, fermentation is spontaneous, 95% in stainless steel tanks and just 5% in used oak barrels, 2-4 weeks by 20° – 22°C. Ageing: in stainless steel tanks on fine lees for 4 months.

Food recommendations: Rice and pasta dishes with white meat or fried fish

Fred is a biodynamic wine-maker and, interestingly from an Irish point of view, says that “Cow manure is the best you can find for composting.” Cows have their fans across the wine world.  During the series of Liberty Wines organised masterclass, endorsements for our bovine friends by Aurelio Montez (Chile) and Giovanni Manetti (Chianti Classico) were followed up by Fred’s.

“You cannot separate plants and animals, nature works in a holistic way, together they have composted over the years to create the soil we have today,” said Fred. Biodiversity is another essential plank. “Monoculture is a big problem today. It is necessary to create as much biodiversity as possible. Not one hundred percent vineyard but always bushes, trees and grassland over the whole area.”

“Herbicide is a disaster. There is life in our soil. Always something going on, even in a small square, something like 60,000 lives in there, all doing something. We cover our soils, green cover, blooming cover. Our own compost is getting better and we spread it in the autumn…”

Check out more details from the very interesting Loimer masterclass here, terrific insights into the nuts and bolts of the biodynamic vineyard.

The Ciù Ciù Casella! More on beers, wines and spirits in Cheers #12

More on beers, wines and spirits in Cheers #12 

Wines direct offer you 

The Ciù Ciù Casella!

Ciù Ciù and Wines Direct have had a close relationship for over ten years. Ciù Ciù's wines have donned the tables of many significant milestone gatherings and family weddings. In celebration, we have put together something very memorable to honour our lasting partnership. You will be delighted to hear that this exceptional offer includes three wines exclusive just to the Ciù Ciù case and three wines that have proved to be permanent staff and customer favourites. Read more here.

****COMPETITION TIME**** At Blacks Brewery. To celebrate summer, Blacks Brewery (@blacksbrewery ) have teamed up with

@bradleys_offlic

to offer you the chance to win a case of KPA cans a funky btl opener and 2 tasting glasses. TO WIN just go to @blacksbrewery on Twitter to like, retweet and comment with how many cans are in the window display in the photo below.

Fresh Beer from the White Hag

Fresh out of the tank this week and first time ever on the store is The Fleadh, Red IPA and also the Róc Helles lager - you can order here, and it will ship tomorrow morning! More info here

ROSÉ FROM AUSTRIA

Rosé wine is winning friends and becoming increasingly popular, thanks to its freshness, fragrantly spicy aromas and appealing colour. It has long since shed the reputation of being “neither fish nor flesh”. Austria offers a wide range of rosé a light, pink-coloured wine made from black grapes; some are particularly delicate, while others can be racy or powerful – a few of them even with protected designation of origin! Read more here.

Kinsale Spirit Launch New Whiskey

Kinsale Spirit have launched their first whiskey; details here

Biodynamic Winemaking with Austria’s Fred Loimer. Kerosene aromas, fertility symbol, compost tea. And more.

Biodynamic Winemaking with Austria’s Fred Loimer

Kerosene aromas, fertility symbol, compost tea. And more.

Fred Loimer

“Cow manure is the best you can find for composting.”  

Cows and their role in composting have been getting the thumbs-up recently from winemakers across the globe.  Endorsements by Aurelio Montez (Chile) and Giovanni Manetti (Chianti Classico) were followed up this Thursday as you can see by our opening line from Fred Loimer (Austria).

The Loimer winery is based in the Kamptal region of Austria and it is biodynamic and that was what Liberty Wines asked Fred to talk about in the latest of the series of online masterclasses by Liberty suppliers. 

Fred: “Kamptal soil is mainly sandstone. Area is steep and here we grow mainly Riesling.” South of Vienna they own a vineyard in the Gumpoldskirchen, an area with a historic reputation for high quality wines. Limestone features here in an area “very different to Kamptal.” In the south, they grow Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and indigenous varieties Zierfandler and Rotgipfler.

One of Fred's opening slides was of Van Gogh’s The Sower at Sunset, to emphasise the Loimer connection with biodynamic farming, a connection that began in 2005. They and other farmers didn’t know too much about it so they formed a learning group and met monthly in the early years before forming a Respekt Group. Having the “Respekt-BIODYN” mark on their labels now endorses the wines as biodynamic (and at a higher standard than the EU regulations).

“The main biodynamic principle for me is ‘farm individuality’, how farming was over 1000s of years. Use resources you find in your place, not to buy everything, but to find on the farm what you need to produce. For instance, we make our own compost and we buy very little. Second, you cannot separate plants and animals, nature works in a holistic way, together they have composted over the years to create the soil we have today.”

Biodiversity is another essential plank. “Monoculture is a big problem today. It is necessary to create as much biodiversity as possible. Not one hundred per cent vineyard but always bushes, trees and grassland over the whole area.”

“Herbicide is a disaster. There is life in our soil. Always something going on, even in a small square, something like 60,000 lives in there, all doing something. We cover our soils, green cover, blooming cover. Our own compost is getting better and we spread it in the autumn and we also make compost tea out of it for spraying. Stinging nettles (they’re everywhere) and other herbs are also used for spraying teas.”

“Cow horns, many people don’t believe. You can’t really measure the impact of these preparations but you can see the difference. There is for sure an impact and cow manure is the best you can find for composting.”

Horn of Plenty

And Fred warned, with a picture of the cockerel, that you must be on alert in the vineyard, know when the rain is coming, the frost and so on. “You have to react quickly to changing conditions.”

In the vineyard work, they use their hands, a lot. Pruning, for instance, is by hand and it is “soft” pruning, meaning that the wound is kept small. Big wounds can lead to big damage. Canopy management too is key as it can have a big impact on the health of the grapes at the end.

And the harvest is also by hand, again for healthy fruit, then careful all the way in small baskets to the press-house. Good fruit allows them to be more flexible in the press-house where low-impact machines are used.

Downstairs the Loimers have an amazing 19th century cave, “a very good atmosphere for wine.” Fred uses stainless steel and values it but when more age and complexity is required, oak is hard to beat. He also said that clay (buried in the ground) is used. “We have just two, don’t think we’ll get more but it is very interesting.”

He took us through the “hierarchy”. In Kamptal: regional, village and crus and also mentioned their “different and interesting Achtung series”. “We also do sparkling (Sekt). Kamptal is the best place in Austria to do it!" They are fresh with a lowish ABV. And he tipped us off to be on the lookout for their 2014 Blanc de Blancs, due to be released in about 6 months.

Soft pruning

Some interesting queries in the Q&A towards the end.

Q: Is there much checking on the Bio regulations?

A: Yes there is a company doing annual checks by appointment and they can also occasionally drop in without an appointment. Everything you do requires paperwork. They ask for it and then go out and check to confirm. Sometimes, they take away samples for testing in case you’re using chemicals. “Yes, it is quite strict.”

Compost "cooking"

Q: Where does the kerosene aroma of Riesling come from?

A: “It is in the grape’s genetics, some years more, some less. When the petrol aromas are not too much, it is fine but, when dominating it can get too much. The balanced growth that biodynamics seeks may help. Ultra Violet light may be a factor so canopy management, where the fruit is left in half-shadow, helps get fresher aromas and not so much petrol.”

Cheeky

Q: Is that label a fertility symbol? 

A: Fred smiled as did most of us who know the well-endowed male figure (right) on the label - he’d probably pair well with our Síle na Gig. He told us how the label came about and that it was indeed a fertility symbol originating in Indonesia about two thousand years go, “a strong symbol you recognise and remember”.

Liberty MD David Gleave brought the Zoom event to a close with a big thank you to Fred and praised his attention to detail saying “it shows us why the wines are so good”.

Previous masterclasses in this current series:

With Giovanni Manetti in Fontodi Chianti Classico

Jane Eyre. Winemaker in Burgundy and Australia.

Nino Pieropan fondly remembered in son Andrea’s Masterclass

In the Swartland with Charles and Charl. The Spice Route and Fairview.

Chilean Wine Maestro Aurelio Montes

The Day The Vines Died in Alto Piemonte with Luca de Marchi
Matt Thompson's Blank Canvas in Marlborough

Portuguese Grape Varieties with Antonio Braga

A masterclass from Tuscany by wine-maker Paolo De Marchi

Rebooting Armenia's Ancient Winemaking with Zoric Gharabian

Barolo 2016 with Franco Massolino and Giuseppe Vajra

Biodynamic Californian Winemaker Ted Lemon of Littorai

Charles Heidsieck is "freshened up" by Cyril Brun

Cellar Master Émilien Boutillat Details Climate Change Challenges.

A Couple Of Superb Reds from Argentina and Austria

A Couple Of Superb Reds from Argentina and Austria

Susana Balbo Crios Malbec Mendoza 2018, 14%, €16.75 Wines Direct

The aromas, warm, moderately spicy and massively welcoming, are the stand-out feature of this dark-red/purple Malbec from Mendoza, crafted by Susana Balbo, one of the best known wine people in Argentina. It is warm too on the palate, full of sweet red fruit flavours (plum and blackcurrant), again that spice, dark and delicious, and a terrific harmonious finish as well. Very Highly Recommended. 

Importers Wines Direct recommend pairing it with Pasta and Pizza, Game, Beef and Lamb. The vineyard tell us that it has spent 9 months in 100 % French oak, and they put Tuna steak, lamb, hamburgers on their matching shortlist. 

The Crios series of wines is aimed at connecting with “young, adventurous wine drinkers looking for unique varietals and regions, as well as with those seeking reliable, quality wines that fit their budget”. Reckon a lot of the recent “cocooners” would have a keen interest here as well.

Susana Balbo, the first female enologist in Argentina after graduating with honours from Don Bosco University in Mendoza in 1981, is an Argentinean game changer “of incredible skill and experience” according to Wines of South America. She is regularly hired as a consultant abroad and has made wine in Australia, California, Chile, France, Italy, South Africa and Spain. Dominio del Plata, her own label, is among the country’s most successful, with her Malbec and Crios Torrontes its signature wines.

Wellanschitz Neckenmarkt Zweigelt Klassik (Burgenland, Austria) 2016, 13%, €17.75 Wines Direct

The Zweigelt grape is a brilliantly hardy grape that is well suited to the Austrian climate and it is the most widely planted red grape there. It was created in 1922 from a crossing between Saint-Laurent and Blaufrankisch. According to Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson, the terroir here is ideal for the red grape: In this landscape, which is not unlike the Médoc, red grapes ripen reliably every year.

Colour is a dark ruby. Attractive bouquet of ripe dark berries. Medium bodied, it is juicy, fruity (blackberries, cherries, raspberries) and nicely spicy on the palate, very fresh too with engaging medium acidity and a long dry finish, tannins integrated. Highly Recommended.

Should be perfect with the foods suggested by importers Wines Direct: spicy food, soft cheese, pork and poultry, beef and lamb. Serve at 14-16 degrees. Note also that it is vegan friendly.

This classic Zweigelt was fermented spontaneously in stainless steel and then traditionally matured in large wooden barrels. “The work of the winemaker is full of humility and awe. Any manipulation, falsification or acquisition, which would alter the cultural asset of the wine are prohibited at Wellanschitz vineyards.” This is the real thing from the Austrian wine-maker.

Cheers. Latest Episode #2 . Keeping You Up To Date With Wine, Beers, and Spirits

Cheers. Latest Episode #2
Keeping You Up To Date With Wine, Beers, and Spirits

Teeling Whiskey Launch Two New Single Malt Whiskeys.

We are delighted to announce the release of two new Single Malt whiskeys to honour this year’s World Whiskey Day.

Building on the International success of the Teeling 24 Year Old Single Malt which won the World’s Best Single Malt in 2019 at the World Whiskies Awards, we are proud to present the Teeling 28 Year Old Single Malt.

We are also proud to release Series 3 of our Brabazon Bottling Series, a 14 Year Old Single Malt that has been matured in Pedro Ximénez casks from the Jerez area of Spain.

Join Jack & Stephen Teeling for a live tasting of these new releases on the Teeling Whiskey Facebook page tonight at 7:30pm (Dublin Time).Both bottlings will be available to purchase from our distillery gift shop from May 19th.

For more information on these new single malts please visit our blog: https://teelingdistillery.com/two-new-single-malt-whiskeys/

SuperValu Italian Wine Sale Begins Thursday 21st May

MASI CAMPOFIORIN is Wine of the Month!

€15, Was €17.49

Rich, smooth, velvety, very approachable and versatile with food. This is MASI’s original Supervenetian recognised internationally and inspired by the technique of making Amarone. Combining simplicity and grace with strength and majesty.

Other to check out: 

COSTA MEDIANA AMARONE

€20 Was €25

Deep purple red, ripe fruits and luscious nose, full body, highly alcoholic yet so round to remind a certain natural sweetness.

SARTORI VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO 75cl

€10 was €19.99

Ruby-red, tending toward garnet with age. Black cherry with some earth notes. Round and

well structured, with rich fruit and soft tannins.

RICOSSA BAROLO 75cl

€20 Was €24.99

The Barolo, Piedmont’s most famous wine, is produced with Nebbiolo grapes grown in the eleven

municipalities of the DOCG. A wine of robust, austere but velvety and harmonious body.

O'Briens Wine
Have your favourite Montepulciano back in stock!🍷🍷
and a whole lot more besides!

Pour Your Own Pint with 

9 White Deer Brewery 

Don't we just deserve this 🥰, 8 weeks is a long time without a proper stout.
See our website for details on how you can have this. It's soooo simple.  #stagstout #draftbeer #glutenfree Pour Your Own Pint! All revealed in their video here
Please drink responsibly

Austria Opening Up after Virus

After Austria’s economic activity came almost completely to a standstill because of the Corona restrictions implemented on 16 March, all of Austrian commerce was able to open its doors again on 2 May – of course, in compliance with strict safety and security regulations. The hospitality industry is scheduled to follow on 15 May, and the hotel industry at the end of May. After suffering weeks of interruption to their most important sales channels, relaxation of these restrictions also means a bit of easier breathing for Austria’s winegrowers.

But what is the situation like in Austrian wine’s most important export markets? Read more here.

Unpicking the closure dilemma of Isole e Olena’s Cepparello

Tuscany’s iconic producer Paolo De Marchi (right) has famously had to classify his top end Isole e Olena Chianti as an IGT wine because he uses 100% Sangiovese. But the other reason he has fallen foul of the Consorzio is that, since 2005, he has been putting an increasing amount of this super premium wine under screw cap. So why has he done this and what difference does it make to the finished wine? Justin Keay talks to De Marchi about his controversial decision and tastes both versions of the Cepparello 2016 to see if a professional palate can tell which is which? Read more on the subject here from The Buyer