Bordeaux’s Chateau Bauduc. Hail and Terroir. My 159 Steps.

Bordeaux’s Chateau Bauduc. Hail and Terroir. My 159 Steps.

Day 9 in Arcachon 10th June

Gavin Quinney knew about terroir but was somewhat sceptical when he started winemaking at Chateau Bauduc fifteen years back. Hail stones weren't in the wine equation then. But they sure are now. Fifteen years on, Englishman Gavin believes in hail and terroir. And much more besides.

Gavin checking Merlot

Chateau Bauduc is found in the area known as Entre deux Mers, the wide strip of land between the Dordogne and the Gironde. Bauduc couldn't be more entre. Gavin, and his dogs, took us around his 25 hectares of vines, some quite young, some quite old (Semillon planted in 1947). Vines are like people, mused Gavin as he pointed out the gnarly old Semillon and its lack of vigour (though not necessarily of quality). Seems though, they will not be here much longer.

This is a working vineyard and in between Gavin had chats with various people - work goes on. And it is detailed work, labour intensive, hands on. He pointed to his many rows of vines, including Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Cabernet Sauvignon, and said each single plant would be visited by man or machine at least twenty times over the year

After all that hard work we retreated to the steps of the chateau itself for the tasting. Having seen so many museum like chateaux in France, it was some change to see a lived-in one! On the steps and in the sunshine we met his wife Angela.

We started with his 2012 Bordeaux blanc, all Sauvignon blanc, and a real beauty. Then we moved onto the lightly oaked Clos des Quinze 2012 Bordeaux, a classic blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Just sipping a glass of it again now as I type and it is just perfect, a great balance of fruit flavours and acidity.

From the 159th step!

They just kept getting better.  Next up was the 2010 Les Trois Hectares, a Bordeaux superieur Merlot. Marvellous. And the good thing about these wines, unlike many that I write about on these trips, is that they are available in Ireland via Curious Wines http://www.curiouswines.ie.

Crossing the Gironde at Langoiran

Bauduc is near the town of Créon and here we enjoyed a lunchtime sandwich and a drink in a bakery recommended by Gavin. Headed on then to a local landmark, the Abbaye de la Sauve Majeure. It is now a ruin but much of the shell remains as does the bell tower. The receptionist more or less dared me to take that on and, with some power from the Bauduc wines, I scaled the 159 steps in record time.

Had been hoping to visit a top restaurant in Arcachon but it closes on Tuesday. Luckily for us, we found another traiteur just across the road and the madame here was welcoming and smiling. We liked that and liked her food as well, including a main course of beef tongue. Three courses costs us about twenty one euro. And we had lots of Bauduc to wash it down! Say no more.

Lunch in Bages.

Lunch in Bages

Day 8 9th June

If we took it easy yesterday, the French did so today, virtually nothing stirring this holiday Monday as we drove through the countryside from Arcachon to the village of Bages on the outskirts of Pauillac in the Medoc.

Indeed, we were wondering if we would even get lunch anywhere. On the way back, we had a different worry: where would we get petrol? In any event, both “problems” were solved.

It seems that more outlets close on a French National Holiday than close on a Sunday. We were originally heading for Moulis, one of the smallest appellations in the Medoc. In particular we were looking for the Maison du Vin in the village.

The thought struck us as we neared that it could be closed and a quick look at our Michelin Wine Regions of France confirmed the sinking feeling. Since we were so close, we said we’d take a look as the book was published a few years ago. The Sat-Nav found the correct street but we couldn't see any sight of the Maison. A mystery.

Carried on further up the road, with the village of Bages, at the gates of the Lynch Bages chateau, our next target. The run-down village has been reconstructed and revitalised by the winery and has some thriving food and drink related shops, adding value to the chateau’s core business. Luckily for us, the restaurant was one of the few premises open and we called in and asked for a table.

It is popular restaurant and we had to wait a spell for a table (inside, none available outside) to be cleared. It was well worth the short wait and we enjoyed a three course lunch for 28 euro each. Started with the Chef’s own Galantine of duck and foie gras, very flavoursome and quite substantial for a starter.

Iced Nougat.

The main event saw CL go for the Pan-seared Hake, Lemon Beurre blanc and ratatouille. She was delighted with that and I was very happy indeed with my Traditional Chicken Fricassee and Dauphinoise Potatoes. Hardly earth-shattering dishes but the produce was top notch and was really properly cooked and presented. Service all round was friendly and excellent.

Desserts were Iced Nougat with caramelised almonds for me and a Mango Passionfruit Cheesecake for her. An excellent finish and the apres digestif was a walk around the village, the chateau (walls!), and the the nearby vineyards.

The petrol gauge dipped lower and lower on the way back but again the villages were sleepy, action only evident as we approached the major roads, though even here a large Leclerc station was shuttered. Eventually, relief came in the  shape of an very busy Auchan Supermarket close to Arcachon. Here, I stuck in the credit card, followed the instructions (not too difficult) and filled her up, all ready for Chateau Bauduc in the morning.

Grand Puy Lacoste
One of the oldest properties in the Médoc.

Now, if only that thunderstorm outside would move away. The one in the morning did and gave us a lovely day again with temperatures up around the thirty mark.

Day of Rest in Arcachon. Hot on the Beach.

A view over Arcachon and the Bassin from the belvedere.

Day of Rest in Arcachon

It has been a packed first week in Arcachon and very enjoyable indeed.

Today, Sunday, we took it easy as the temperature climbed towards the 30 mark. Visited a Garden Exhibition in the town park around midway and also enjoyed a fantastic view over the town and the Bassin from a nearby belvedere. A quick sandwich (4.5), smoked salmon and salad, sufficed for lunch, and then we headed back to the house. Dinner, blanquet de veau (from the traiteur), now in progress with a terrific bottle of Graves rouge (Crabitey 2010).

The General de Gaulle rose

Hot on the beach as excursion boats for the Bassin load up.

Walking with Birds. Eating Fish all the Way

Walking with Birds. Eating Fish all the Way

Proud mother watches her baby, walk, feed, swim and run.

A six kilometre walk in temperatures of about 30 degrees is not everybody’s idea of fun but we had the most enjoyable and informative walk this Saturday afternoon through the Reserve Ornithologique du Teich on the shores of the Bassin d’Arcachon.

Here you get close to the wild birds, via some twenty observation huts and four Observation Points. Not all birds performed! Why should they? You’d probably have to live here and buy an annual pass to get the best of it. But we did have two memorable highlights.

Storks

Indeed, our very first stop was in the stork nesting area and there were quite a few of them at home. For someone from a country without storks, this was an incredible experience. And we would have one more.

From a hide, about midway through the walk, we saw, what I think is,  a Black Winged Stilt lying on a small bank in the water. When she rose, she’ll revealed three little chicks and just one egg there. The mother and father kept an eye on the little ones as they swam and walked in the shallow water near the shore. Amazing.

The morning started with a visit to the market in Arcachon, much enlarged with many extra stalls out in the open air. Fish was the order of the day here. We ordered mussels and the man threw in a big bunch of parsley and we also bought a stuffed crap from the same stall.

That €2.50 worth of mussels, cooked with the parsley and accompanied by some “Farm” bread, provided us with a tasty lunch in the hot sun. After that, we headed off to the Bird Reserve.

On the way home, we realised (horror of horrors!) that we had no starter sorted out. No bother! Called into one of the seven oyster ports in Gujan-Mestras and walked up to one of the cabins. Sat down in the sun and had a look at the menu. Didn't go beyond #1: six oysters, bread, a glass of white or pink (as he said), lemon and shallot vinaigre. We had a #1 each, at nine euro apiece. Starter sorted! And no washing up.

Now for the crab and a bottle of white Graves. The whites from the Graves area are really good. We haven’t drawn a dud yet and have enjoyed the following: L’Emigre 2011 biologique (€6.70), Vimont 2012 (7.30), Haut Reys 2012 (6.40), and Castre 2011 (15.30). These are usually a blend of Sauvignon, Semillon and Muscadelle (minor contribution usually), though I think one of the four is 100% Semillon. 

Star Meal. Boat Tour of The Arcachon Bassin. Visit to Oyster Museum.

Star Meal. Boat Tour of The Arcachon Bassin. Visit to Oyster Museum.

Today, Friday June 6th 2014, was mostly about the Arcachon Bassin and its oysters. In the morning, we spent a few hours out on the water on an excursion while in the afternoon we visited an excellent little Oyster Museum in the the oyster capital of the region Gujan-Mestras and , just now, at the town centre restaurant Au Mille Saveurs, I had the most amazing oyster starter.

After a lovely amuse bouche, that starter arrived. It was described as Hot Oysters with apple and mango chutney, sabayon of dry cider.  (Huîtres chaudes du Bassin sur chutney de pomme et mangue, sabayon au cidre brut). CL's Ballotine of Foie Gras was also amazing, served with plum confit. (Ballotine de foie gras de canard, pruneaux confits à l'Amaretto et Porto).

Lamb and Beef could describe our respective main courses but would fall so far sort. The Lamb came (mainly) with Courgettes stuffed with Creme Fraiche. (Carré d'Agneau à la sarriette, citron confit et piquillos, courgettes farcies d'un fromage frais).

While the oh so tender beef, flambeed with Cognac, came with mushrooms and a most gorgeous jus. I have kept the French versions along side, if you want to check the flu detail. (Filet de boeuf flambé au Cognac, cèpes aux pignons de pin, millefauille du Sud et jus court parfumé à la truffe)

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Then the cheese plate arrived on a trolley and we had our pick of Camembert, chèvre (can’t remember which), Reblochon, Pont L’Eveque, and more.

We agreed on the dessert. Again this was something different, generally not seen at home. It was Rice with a Pineapple and Rum Sorbet.

Catch of the Day.
On the side of oysterman's cabin.

Wine. Oh, I nearly forgot the wine. This was a superb Pessac Leognan 2008 Martillac, Chateau St Eugene.

Our morning excursion on one of the well equipped boats of the UBA (Union des Batteliers Arcachonnais) was billed as a Tour de l’Ile aux oiseaux. While we didn't get that close to the island, there were highlights, such as the two well known and well photographed huts on stilts lying off the island and some of towns, including Canon and L’Herbe, and even a brief stop at Cap Ferret. There was also, for much of time, a view of the huge Dune du Pyla that dominates the landscape almost like Mont Ventoux (on a different scale of course) does in Provence.

While the island is known for the many birds that breed there, it is also, ironically, popular with hunters who lie in wait for their prey in hides. It is also an oyster farming centre and there were many beds to be seen, or at least their markers.

Sea Bream crushes the oyster shell with his jaws and enjoys!

Overall, it was an excellent and enjoyable tour. There were about twenty people on board and the skipper gave a running commentary, all in French (I caught very very little) and it cost sixteen euro per adult and lasted just over an hour and a half.

On tour in the Bassin

If we didn't know that much about oysters when we arrived, we were certainly well educated at the excellent museum in Gujan-Mestras. We certainly got a great welcome and some very good pointers and an English language screening of the informative video was arranged for us.

The huts on stilts

This small town has some seven oysters ports and produces over half the oysters farmed in the Bassin. The museum is in Larros harbour and well worth seeking out as it takes you through the breeding from start to finish and you also get an understanding of the hard work that the fishermen and their families put into the process. The illustrations here are simple yet quite comprehensive, just enough information and well delivered.

After, that we took a walk among the cabanas, some of which were opening and selling the oysters, We were tempted but with dinner booked, we rebuffed the temptation! Another day, for sure!

Europe’s Highest Sand Dune; Shellfish Galore

On Europe’s Highest Sand Dune; Shellfish Galore

Today’s highlight was undoubtedly a morning visit to Dune du Pilat, the highest in Europe. It is about two miles long, about 600 feet wide, and some 384 feet (117 metres) high. These measurements constantly change as this is a moving mass of sand, a few miles south of Arcachon.

The steep climb is eased by a set of steps and you can also use them coming down. You may also walk down on the sand (which we did) or even roll down. Either way, your shoes will be full of sand, also your nose, ears, eyes, etc. Indeed, on a windy day, you’d better protect yourself at the top as the grains of sand are whipped off the crest at quite a pace and can sting.

More than one way of getting down!

But is well worth the climb to the top, as you are rewarded with a magnificent 360 degree view, to the tree shaded town of Arcachon, Cap Ferret across the opening of the Bassin, the Atlantic Ocean itself and some big sandbanks, not forgetting the huge forest below that doesn't look so tall now. No admission charge but there is a parking charge (four euro for four hours).

Part of the view from the top.
Arcachon to the right and Cap Ferret across the channel

Back in Arcachon, we stopped for lunch at the Brasserie des Marquises, a platter of chorizo, salami and ham for me, a platter of seafood tapas (breaded squid, mussels, etc) for CL. Quite good, though hardly outstanding, for ten euro each, while a 250ml carafe of Bordeaux Rose cost €6.50.

Pas Mal

In the afternoon, we headed to the nearby oyster port of La Teste de Buch. Not too much going on here; the tide was out and so were the oystermen, though there were many boats stranded on the mud. There was bit of noise and colour when a rally of 2CVs gathered in the port area.

As we got back to the car, we spotted a huge seafood store and called in and thoughts of a restaurant meal were banished as we worked our way through this treasure trove and stocked up for dinner. We’ll be eating out tonight, but it’ll be outside the house. This has been a terrific day and I saw 32 degrees in the local chemist about six o'clock. It was about twenty degrees when we were on the dune (and that suited us) and it has risen gradually during the day.

Bon Appetit!

Town Market and a Walk on the Wild Side

Town Market and a Walk on the Wild Side

Day 3

Bunny Galore

Heavy rain this Wednesday morning threatened to ruin the day but it vanished and we were left with some good sun and a sometimes stiff breeze, temperatures mainly around the twenty mark.

Still we dressed up well as we walked up the town to the daily indoor food market, a reasonably large one with some stalls outside. Lots of oysters as you might expect but no mussels. We fell on our old favourite in France, the cabillaud or fresh cod, not to be confused with bacalau or salted cod. Plenty of veg and fruit bought and also a Pain de Campagne, a very flavoursome and crusty country loaf.

Had been told to watch out for the Bordeaux speciality, the Canelés, and there was no shortage. Bought a couple of these small vanilla cakes and tried them with coffee back in the house. Must say I wasn't overly fond of them!

In the afternoon, we headed for a small town Audenge at the other side of the bassin (pronounced bass-on). Here, we enjoyed a very long walk in the nature reserve of Domaine de Certes. Here, you can  see the large shallow reservoirs (each has a sluice gate to control the water), where they used to farm fish. As I walked, I was wondering if something similar could be done in Cork Harbour, particularly around Glounthaune. Could be quite a business.

Walking in Certes

In Certes there is a coastal footpath, giving great views of the bassin. As you walk, you will see many birds, including herons, egrets, and hovering birds of prey. Perhaps the best demonstration of aerial prowess was provided by a group of swallows, ducking and diving, weaving and wheeling.

Nowadays in the bassin there’s no shortage of fish farming, especially oysters of which 8,000 to 10,000 tones a year are produced here, but they also rear sea bass, grey mullet and sea bream.

There are very good main roads around here, but normally quite busy. We avoided them today, over-ruling the Sat-Nav, and taking a country road from town to town - they are mostly joined up in any case - as we drove around the fringes of the bassin.

Roundabout cows on today's drive.

In the Heart of Graves. A Sweet Surprise.

In the Heart of Graves. A Sweet Surprise.
Day 3 in Arcachon

Dessert at Chez Charlotte:
 an apple roulade, with vanilla ice-cream and caramel sauce

We had something of a dilemma when we arrived at the Maison des Vins de Graves this afternoon: they hold more than 350 wines of the region which stretches about sixty kilometres (and about 15 wide) from the suburbs of Bordeaux to the villages of Langon, all on the left bank of the Gironde. Didn’t think I was up to tasting all 350.

Luckily, we had a great tasting (of about nine!) and were able to make some choices and, of course, purchases. Back at the ranch now with some red and white and sipping away happily from a bottle of Chateau Magneau rouge 2008.

 

Lillet Distillery in Podensac

While they do hold the reds of Pessac-Leognan, the dessert wines of Barsac and Sauternes are not on show here. But I was surprised that they did have some sweet wines of Graves itself, those blanc moelleux coming under the AOC of Graves Superieures. Tasted some and bought the Tour de Calens, “the exception that proves the rule”. The other Graves dessert wines come from the borders of Narsac and Sauternes and the micro-climate there but Calens is up by Pessac-Leognan.

Wines of Pessac-Leognan

The Maison des Vins is in the town of Podensac and one of our main reasons for visiting was to see the distillery that makes the rather famous local aperitif called Lillet. Unfortunately the public area is undergoing some renovations and not open for about another three weeks or so.

Not a great reward after braving the busy Bordeaux rocade (ring road), a place where you keep your eyes open and your hands and feet at the ready, where drivers make manic moves like the fellow in the artic that swept into our lane this morning and swept back out again, all in the one movement. Phew! But it is something we are getting used and will see more of if we are to see more of the vineyards.

Before the aborted visit to Lillet, we had called to a lovely restaurant in the town called Chez Charlotte where a three course meal cost us €22.00 each. It was quite a good one too and the proprietor had good English and was eager to engage in conversation. He was quite proud of his food, especially the rabbit and pistachio terrine starter, all made in house.

He was also proud of the area, listing the main attractions as Charlotte (big smile!), the Lillet Distillery, The Maison de Vins and the fact that they had a water tower by the famous architect Le Corbusier. You can see the latter from the grounds of La Maison des Vin. In fact, you will see two towers, but the smaller older looking one is the effort by the renowned Le Corbusier.

Cork to Arcachon

Cork to Arcachon

Ravioli langoustine with Tomato Butter Sauce

Cork to Arcachon

Here we are in our townhouse in Arcachon, about 40 minutes from Bordeaux, after a long but very pleasant trip from Ringaskiddy, the highlight of which was perhaps another top class meal on board the Brittany Ferries ship, the Pont Aven.

We left Cork Harbour on Saturday. It was quite a lively stretch of water that afternoon. There were no liners at anchor but Cobh still looked resplendent in the sun. Tugboats, recently featured on the TV3 programme about the harbour, were busy berthing a tanker at Whitegate while the Pilot Launch moved right alongside to extract the local pilot from the Pont Aven after we had passed Roche’s Point.

Cobh

We actually missed part of the journey down the harbour as we had to join the line to book our meal in Le Flora. Well worth it though, as you can see from the photos.

After a smooth crossing, including a drink with fellow blogger Karen Coakley (and her family), we arrived in Roscoff at 7.00am local time and got off about 40 minutes later. We had a meeting set with the keyholder in Arcachon for 5.30 and we arrived to meet Madame H. about seven minutes before that. Thank you Miss Sat-Nav, better known as Susie.

Harbour jinks

The house is quite large and very central, very close to the marina and the beaches. We took a walk that Sunday evening on the seafront and, while I have seen some huge marinas in France, I don't think I've ever seen so many pleasure craft in the one place.

On a very sunny Monday morning, we headed to the Centre Ville and wandered down to the pier from where the passengers boats depart for various trips on the Bassin, essentially a large inland sea that has a narrow “neck” to the Atlantic.

Fisherman's cottage in Andernos

I always advise people to do two things on arrival in a French town. Find the Tourist Office and find a good traiteur. We did both that first morning. Got lots of maps and brochures in the Tourist Office and bought lunch and dinner from the traiteur.

Arcachon marina

The traiteur is an institution in France. They have top quality ready made meals and snacks for sale. Sometimes you may eat straight away, sometimes you may have to reheat in the oven or microwave. For lunch we enjoyed a gorgeous Ham and Olive Cake and the main course at dinner was a beautiful Mousaka, that washed down with a bottle of red Graves.

On Brittany Ferries: Chicken w. aspargus,
Spicy Lamb and red wine.

Cheeseboard, Strawberry with pistachio cream, Grand Marnier Souffle

The dinner came at the end of a trip to the other side of the Bassin, to a town called Andernos Les Bains.  The Bassin is of course tidal and here at Andernos the effect is dramatic as some three quarters of the water flows away leaving many boats high and dry for hours. No wonder, it has a very long jetty - I read somewhere that it is the longest in France. Still, the resort is very very popular with families. And, as we left, there was a procession of fishing boats, coming up the channel as the tide started to return. There is a large fishing industry here, including all kinds of shellfish, so you can take it we’ll be eating some.