Ballyvourney's Mills Inn's worth a stop. Best to make it a planned one!

Ballyvourney's Mills Inn's worth a stop. Best to make it a planned one!

Ballyvourney’s Mills Inn was looking splendid in the sun on the last day of March and quite a buzz inside as well with regulars plus a group celebration or two enjoying the food. With travel and dining out hit at various periods of the Covid crisis, The Mills no doubt like many others found the going difficult but the lively buzz there on the 31st March 2022 indicated it is well placed to make a full recovery!

I don’t know how many times I’ve passed this popular stopping off venue for Cork and Kerry travellers. But it has usually been too close to breakfast or just before lunch or there’s been a big dinner on the near horizon.

The lunch-time call though at the end of March was planned. So we parked at the side and entered the large premises where the mid-day sun streamed through the roadside windows, nothing but blue sky outside. And that is where got our table, taking in the artefacts, prints and photos around the various nooks and crannies after we had studied the menu.

And it is quite a large menu, reinforced by a small posse of specials. All tastes are catered for. Let us begin with the Cúrsa Tosaigh (starters). There was Soup and Chowder, Chicken Wings, Black Pudding Croquettes, Salads, a vegetarian Curried Spiced Garden Pea and Red Lentil Fritters, and more, including two specials, a Chicken Liver Paté and Creamy Mushrooms.

We were concentrating on the mains and what a list. Included were the Mills Farm Beef Lasagne, Sirloin and Rib Eye steaks, Mills Farm Burger, a Chicken Curry, Fish and Chips, Panko Crumbed Deep Water Scampi Prawns and specials of course: Roast Rump of Beef, Grilled Fillet of Salmon, a Beef and Vegetable Casserole, and a Supreme of Chicken.

Takes a while to make your mind up here! In the end I went for the Cajun Spiced Chicken Fillet Burger with melted Mozzarella Cheese, baby gem lettuce and beef tomato in a toasted brioche bun with salt and fries and little bowls of guacamole and tomato salsa. It turned out to be an excellent plate, the chicken, the juicy beef tomato, the sauces and the chips all perfect.

Our other choice was the Panko Crumbed Chicken goujons with garlic mayonnaise and tomato salsa, served with house salad and fries. We swapped dishes halfway through and I enjoyed this as well, even if the chicken wasn’t quite at the same quality level as that in the burger.

But the highlight was yet to come. The dessert offerings followed more or less traditional lines with Cheesecake, Chocolate Brownie, and Sticky Toffee Pudding on the list with two specials: Peach and Lemon Posset and their Bread and Butter Pudding. 

As it happened, we went for the most traditional of the lot, the Apple Pie, and we hit the jackpot, probably the best of its kind I’ve come across in years. And huge, as big as one of John Egan’s football boots! Just as well we were sharing this simple but splendid creation. Warm Home-made Apple Pie with whipped cream and crème anglaise (they added a scoop of ice cream) sounds innocent enough but its level of deliciousness was from some heavenly kitchen.

If you are passing here anytime soon and have a little time on your hands, do drop in for this Apple Pie, at least. Better again is to do what I did on this occasion: make the Mills Inn a planned stop, take your time and enjoy the food and the friendly service and perhaps a pint of the local and excellent 9 White Deer beers!

Also on this visit:

Killarney National Park

Bray Head Walk on Valentia Island

Kells Bay Gardens and lunch at Sala Thai

Dinner at The Mad Monk by Quinlans Fish

The Lake Hotel

The Maritime Hotel & Bantry Town. Great Base For West Cork & South East Kerry

The Maritime Hotel & Bantry Town

Great Base For West Cork & South East Kerry.

Our base for a recent quick trip to Bantry was the town's Maritime Hotel. And an excellent place it is, with very courteous staff, from reception, to bar to breakfast. Comfortable spacious rooms here, all with a view over the harbour. 

Made a call to the bar and confirmed (again) The Maritime supports local drinks producers - gins, whiskey and beer - and I was delighted to see the 9 White Deer Kölsch on draught. What a superbly refreshing drink, a fine reward after a walk on sunny Sheep’s Head.

And breakfast is good, served in an impressive room. There is a hot buffet but here it is regularly refreshed. And you have the usual juices, meats and cheese too, and breads of course. No shortage at all. The long low rise hotel ais  few steps from the main square, has its own underground car park and that, with a lift up to reception, is very convenient. Recommended.

Brendan the Navigator

It is also very convenient as a base for touring. We didn’t have all that much time on this occasion and our main trip was to the fabulous Sheep’s Head Peninsula and that walk on the Goat’s Path. But Mizen and Beara are also within easy reach and you can head for Kerry via the spectacular Healy Pass.

Corner of the breakfast room

After our Friday breakfast, we headed uphill to a place called Vaughan’s Pass though I think the locals call it Sheskin and you’ll also see Dromleigh Heights on signs. Turn up High Street and look out for the signs (you do go past the local hospital). A good Sat-Nav or this Google Maps link should get you there. You will see some large communication aerials on the top as you approach and there is a car park.

It is well worth making this trip, particularly on a clear day as you will see spectacular views of the Bantry area, the harbour including Whiddy Island and right across to Glengarriff. Very Highly Recommended,

We took our time there for a while before heading back down to the town and the fantastic Friday morning market, held in the impressive Wolfe Tone Square where statues of St Brendan and Wolfe Tone himself stand. 

Aside from the food, you can buy carpets and other household items, lots of bric-a-brac and certainly lots and lots of tools. I think there were at least three stalls selling hand tools there on that Friday and they seemed popular. This being Bantry, you will also find a stall selling fishing gear. Quite a varied market and one that will be getting better as the days get longer. Our main purchase was a box of plants, now happily taking root in the back garden!

On this trip:

The Fish Kitchen 

Garden goodies from the
market's Natural Growing
Company

Donemark West Restaurant

Sheep’s Head Peninsula

Previous Trips:

A Couple of Days in West Cork

Manning’s Emporium. Syrian Food.  An Eagle’s Nest.

Burgundy on the Beach. Room with a View. Magic. 

 

Glengarriff’s Eccles Hotel

A Quart of Ale± #71. Craft session in the south-west with Killarney, Clonakilty and 9 White Deer

A Quart of Ale± #71

On craft journey to the south-west with Killarney, Clonakilty and 9 White Deer

Killarney Full Circle IPA, 5%, 500 bottle O’Donovan’s

Colour is close to amber. All American hops are used here and the aromas make that clear from the moment you flip the cap. The soft head collapses soon enough onto the slight hazy body. The hops are not identified on the label but the ensemble brings quite a current of deep flavour with dry bitterness (IBU is 42) clearly displayed at the finalé. Easy to see why it is now part of their core range. No pairings seen but I found it very compatible with a mature cheddar (Kilmeaden, I think!),

Full Circle? Emigration has forever been at the heart of Irish history.  From the mid 1800’s onwards, generations left these shores destined for the land of opportunity.  Over a century on, life’s journey has come full circle and their progeny are returning home.  This is a story held by our Head Brewer Mike, who with his wife and daughter, have brought back to Kerry this USA branch of their family tree.

The big news though is their new facility (brewery and distillery) out in Fossa is looking more impressive every day. “The team are working hard and know we are one step closer every day. As Tim O’D, one of our founders, would say we haven’t been drinking a lot of beer, just a lot of coffee!' Make sure to stay tuned on our journey by watching our Distilling the Dream Vlogs on our YouTube channel!"

The new building includes salvaged red brick imported directly from the Windy City of Chicago. If they could talk, no doubt an Irish accent could be heard in the original laying. They now take pride of place in the main stairwell of the new visitor centre.

Clonakilty Inchydoney Blond, 4.5%, 500 bottle O’Donovan’s

An inviting cornfield gold is the colour of this Witbier from Clonakilty Brewing Company. It starts with a big soft white head. And no shortage of carbonation. A gentle citrus in the aromas and also on the palate. Perhaps the most striking thing on initial contact is the refreshment factor which is high, right through to the lip-licking finish. Good mouthfeel too.

The brewery recommends it as an excellent accompaniment to fish dishes, Summer salads and light cheeses. And I can confirm that it went very well a few months back with my superb John Dory dish in the Liss Ard Estate (not a million miles from Clon).

The label recommends pouring this light and crisp Belgian Wit slowly for a smooth creamy head. Contains yeast sediment. Enjoy chilled. Ingredients do, of course, include wheat (no mention of orange peel or coriander though).

They say: “We are passionate about making beer with no compromise, brewing small batches with big personality. Using locally sourced grains, the best hops and water from our own well, our beers are handcrafted with care in our brewhouse in Clonakilty by head brewer ‘Thirsty’ Frank Fredriksen and his team.”

Inchydoney Island is steeped in history. From the Battle of Clonakilty in 1642, when fleeing Irish forces drowned while trying to find refuge on the island. No longer an island but joined to the mainland by causeways, Inchydoney’s golden beaches are a haven for surfers and inspired our crisp blonde refreshing beer for long Summer days and BBQ’s

9 White Deer Black Lightning Black IPA 6.5%, 500 bottle Bradleys

Black as the middle of a vat of Follain blackberry jam, with a head coloured like a cappuccino. There’s a roasty toasty edge to the aromatics. And that edge continues onwards to wake up any sleepy taste buds. Now the fully engaged palate can appreciate the posse of hops here. Brewer Gordon: “This Black IPA is triple hopped with huge hop volumes of all the American hops expected of the style.” 

So hops galore as the malt plays a background role. The IBU is a high 52. But for all that, there is quite a balance and the brewery gives credit for that to the fact that they adjusted the water profile “to make the hops seem more rounded rather than sharp and harsh which can easily happen when using so much hops”.

Does the name tell us something? “Black Lightning is hopped from the mash to the fermentor. We use Willamette, Chinook, Cascade, Summit and Centennial hops in very large volumes, about 100% more than a regular beer, but we don’t make it too bitter. It is an intensely hoppy and powerful beer. Like the legendary motorbike Vincent Black Lightning 1952, this beer needs to be handled with care.”

The brewery 9 White Deer is nestled in the heart of West Cork making the highest quality Irish beers. “We have a range of uniquely crafted beers; our renowned pale ale, a beautiful Irish red ale, an award winning black IPA, the best stout you’ve ever tasted, our balanced IPA and seasonals such as our Pilsner Ól-e. Everything we do is 100% gluten free.”

A cracking beer, well balanced, like the Euro football game that has just finished: Leicester 2 Napoli 2. Should have taken it to Kinsale for a head to head!

9 White Deer Stag IPA, 5%, 500 bottle O’Donovan’s

Amber is the colour of this gluten free IPA (the first GF produced in the country) from West Cork. There’s a frothy white head that sinks slowly when the beer is poured from the bottle. Aromas (citrus and floral notes) hint of malt and hops. 

It is an immediate and big presence on the palate, full of flavour, some from the late hop usage in the boil, but there’s no long lasting bitterness here, just a well balanced easy drinking IPA with engaging flavour and aroma and a lip smacking refreshment factor.

“Vast quantities of hops” no doubt but the malt holds its end up well too in this excellent beer.

A Quart of Ale± #57 On the craft journey with a session of ales and a zero% cider.

 A Quart of Ale± #57

On the craft journey with a session of ales and a 0% cider.

Hard to beat variety from Sullivans, 9 White Deer, West Kerry and Stonewell.

Sullivan’s “Irish Gold” Golden Ale 5.2%, 440ml can O’Briens Wine

Colour of this Kilkenny contender is a mix of copper and gold; if you say there’s amber there, I won’t disagree.  I’ve seen it described as a tastier ale with a gentle bite and wouldn’t disagree with that either.

The label reveals it, modestly, as “traditionally brewed With Lightly Roasted Cara Malt And Finished With First Gold Aroma Hops.” And I must say, the result is pretty good, a rather unique beer, rich with roasted flavour from the malt and with a dry finish thanks to the hops. Goes to show, a modern beer doesn’t have to be an IPA of either coast to hit the spot.

They say: The beer we craft today is inspired by traditional Kilkenny recipes and brewed the way the family has always brewed – the way real Irish beer should be brewed – by local experts, by hand, in small batches, with enormous heart and the finest locally sourced ingredients. Brewed by a true master, the beauty of this ale lies in its balance, sessionability and subtle apricot & tangerine tasting finish. 

The barley used to produce Sullivan’s Golden Ale is sourced from four local Kilkenny farms ensuring the utmost quality and flavour. Pizza is the suggested match but I’m sure this ale, with an almost plush mouthfeel, can do better for itself.

Malts: Irish Ale, Vienna, Cara.

Hops: First Gold, Admiral.

9 White Deer “Stag Ban” Pale Ale 4.5%, 500ml bottle O’Briens Wine

Mid amber is the colour of this dry refreshing Pale Ale from the West Cork Gaeltacht. This is the first ever beer from 9 White Deer in Ballyvourney and one they more or less got spot-on from the beginning (2014). It has been gluten free since 2018.

Soft white head here and a finger taste of this will tell you that the spicy citrusy hops are key. But it’s not a “hop bomb”. This is about balance. They say they designed this beer with summer in mind and the hops used (First Gold, Admiral and Cascade) emphasise that. It is a harmonious drink with citrus, floral and spice notes all combining well in the golden glass. The result is a top end Pale Ale.

Basically, it’s an easy drinking beer, brewed at lower temperatures to create a cleaner profile; the malt profile is uncomplicated, neither heavy nor cloying. It is a dry and refreshing beer with a light malt body mixing well with the contribution from the hops.

They say: Throughout the world a white deer is seen as sacred and something very special and 9 White Deer Craft Brewery holds the same view. In Baile Bhuirne the people of the community greatly respect the holy and historical value of the well and the stories of St Gobnait. Determined to honour the local landscape and folklore, we craft beers from native barley and the purest of water sourced from the Cork and Kerry mountains.

Long may the 9 White Deer continue brewing beers like this!

West Kerry “Blue Rose” Pale Ale 5.1%, 500ml bottle Bradleys

A light bright amber is the colour of this “Blue Rose” Pale Ale from the West Kerry Brewery, the original and first microbrewery in the county. It’s got a soft white head and fountains of little bubbles rising through that bright amber. It has a soft mouthfeel and that gentle feeling goes right through to the long finish, a very satisfactory refreshing one. 

A beautiful easy-drinking ale with muted citrus in both aroma and palate - it has been dry-hopped with Cascade. Don’t let the summer go by without trying one or two of these.

And if you get really serious about these beers, why not go to the source. Paul and brewer Adrienne have rooms to let in Tig Bhric, located in the beautiful in the Dingle Peninsula.

The brewery, established in 2008, is still at its original base at Tig Bhric where the portfolio continues to expand with “traditional yet progressive beers”. “These include the Renegade Series, Limited Collectors Edition and the Riasc Range, named after the town-land of our location. These are seasonal beers where we add both local and garden botanicals.”

Stonewell 0% Non-Alcoholic Cider, 330ml bottle O’Donovan’s, Bradleys

Light gold colour, no shortage of bubbles rising up. And there’s a fresh fruit aroma. The first thing you notice in the mouth is that this is refreshing, it is dry-ish, crisp, and very much a real cider, a terrific drink after a long walk or a drive. And, of course, you can have a few of these and still drive. They have used typical bittersweet apples here so it’s not lacking in flavour, on the contrary. Very drinkable and very acceptable. Fit for purpose, for sure.

So how do they do it? “Traditionally we’ve been an alcoholic beverage maker, namely cider. So in order for to us to produce a non-alcoholic beverage we’ve had to go back to the drawing board and return to our studies to find out what was the best way to square this circle. Instead of simply trying to make a concoction with fresh apple juice, we opted for the more complex route of removing alcohol from a normal cider.

We fermented a cider using typical bittersweet apples. Once fermented, we then used a process of osmosis, or to be precise reverse osmosis to extract the alcohol from the cider. This leaves a lot of the characteristics created by the fermentation process but with the added bonus that there’s no alcohol. At this stage of the process the cider is still “dry” in other words contains no sweetness, so to finish off this blend we add a small amount of apple juice which broadens the mouthfeel…. Made and blended by us in Cork, Stonewell 0% is a refreshing alternative for all those looking to avoid the sickly sweet mocktails or fizzy rock shandys at a social occasion.”

I have tasted quite a few non-alcoholic Irish beers and fewer Irish ciders at this stage and it seems to me that the cider-makers, with Stonewell and Highbank (with their Drivers Cider) showing the way, have made a better fist of the genre than the beer makers!

A Quart of Ale± #23 Moving on over to craft with Red Ale

A Quart of Ale± #23

Moving on over to craft

Red Ale (Part 1)

Is Red Ale an Irish style? In the 1970s, beer writer Michael Jackson is credited with giving the tag to Smithwicks. According to World Atlas of Beer, American beer competitions started awarding prizes for the category and smaller Irish breweries started to “launch highly-hopped higher strength or even barrel aged versions”. As you can see below, Eight Degrees gave as good as they got in recent competition with their dry Sunburnt.

The recent Brew Dog books mention only the American Red, in fact they barely mention the Irish scene at all. Sláinte (2014) acknowledges that there is some “dissent” about Red being an Irish style but say some local breweries have “evolved the style”. More recent examples include Porterhouse who have “banished the sweet”.

Looks like the style is still evolving. We  have four good ones below for you and another handsome trio (Eight Degrees, Cotton Ball and White Hag) to come in Part 2.

Porterhouse “Red” 4.2%, 500ml bottle Bradley’s of Cork

Porterhouse, a pioneering Irish craft brewery, are the producers of this red ale. Darkish red/brown is the colour here, and the off white head has a brief span. Both Malt and Hop figure in the aromas and also on the engaging palate, engaging because of exuberant fruit and a small streak of malty caramel. Fresh and fruity, with  superb caramel finish (almost stout like), I suspect (even at this early stage in the group) one of the better ones.

They say: Irish red ales? Yes, we know. Sweet, a bit cloying and, well, no thanks. So, it was brave of us (we say bravely) to put the words “red ale” after our own moniker. Why the hell would we do that? Because this is a real red ale, ….But sweet? No way. Balanced, yes. Fresh, yes. Aromatic, yes. In fact, we say yes, please.

Details

Malts: Pale Ale Malt, Crystal Malt, Wheat Malt, Chocolate Malt

Hops: Galena, Nugget, East Kent Goldings

ABV: 4.2% IBUs: 33 

9 White Deer “Stag Rua” 4.2%, 500ml bottle Bradley’s of Cork

Made with a mix of ale, crystal and chocolate malts, Stag Rua pours a very dark red indeed, with a soft off-white head. Chocolate, coffee and caramel in the aromas and also on the smooth palate. A really balanced beer with no single ingredient dominating. Quite a satisfying mouthful indeed. Easy-going as they indicate and also Gluten Free (since 2018).

They say: Stag Rua has an aroma that is rich and malty with little hops, although we use a considerable amount of hops their presence is behind the malt but there none the less. It will pour with a off white rocky head and should last all the way down the glass leaving a lacing behind. Stag Rua, an Irish Red Ale is a favourite style of our head brewer and we hope you enjoy drinking it as much as we love it. Be big, be bold, Bí Dána.

Wicklow Wolf Wildfire Hoppy Red Ale 4.6%, 440ml can Ardkeen Superstore

Colour is a dark red mix with an off-white head that doesn’t last too long. Malt plus a sniff of coffee in the aromatics and the same combo, with a stronger showing from the coffee, shows in the palate. Here too, the Sorachi and Sabro hops also figure, rather mildly though.

Indeed, “mild” is perhaps the most apt descriptor, though not in a pejorative manner. Touted as a modern red ale, I’m well pleased with it (nothing to do with its modernity or otherwise) and would love to try it in a direct joust with other reds like Roaring Ruby (from West Cork Brewing), Kinnegar’s Devil’s Backbone, Copper Coast (from Dungarvan Brewing), White Gypsy’s Ruby Red, the award winning Sunburnt Irish (8 Degrees), Costello’s Red Ale and more (including the newish Velvet Red by the Cotton Ball). Could be a long session. And I’d need food as well!

A few details:

Serve at 8 degrees.

IBU: 28

Hops: Sorachi Ace, Sabro

Malt: Pale, Cara Ruby, Melano, Oats, Roasted Barley

West Cork “Roaring Ruby” Dark Red Ale 4.4%, 500ml bottle Bradley’s of Cork

This Dark Red Ale from Baltimore is indeed a dark red with a head that soon diminishes to a thin lacy disc. Aromas are caramel and toasty. And you get much the same on the palate, toffee, caramel and coffee. All a bit stout like, yet this has its own distinctive flavour and texture with its malt bill prominent. Perhaps a bit more traditional than some of the other Irish ones but none the worse for that.

They suggest pairing with Roast meats, BBQ, strong cheese, roast veg.

It is Unfiltered and Vegan friendly as only whirlfloc (carrageen moss) is used to aid in clarification. Free from fluoride, chemicals, preservatives.

Malts: – pale ale malt, flaked oats,  amber malt, caramel malt, wheat malt, roasted barley.

Hops – Bramling Cross and Liberty.

Brewed using their own spring water.

Their story. Bacchus and Dionysus get some credit on the West Cork Brewery website but it is the yarns built around founders Kevin, Henry and Dominic that catch the attention. Read about the three founders here.  

A Cork gin, GF beer, Tandem Wines at O'Briens. And more on wine, beer and spirits in Cheers #20

A Cork gin, GF beer, Tandem Wines at O'Briens.

And more on wine, beer and spirits in Cheers #20

Bhagya and Robert

Rebel City Distillery is a boutique distillery situated in the heart of Cork’s Docklands. Founded in 2020, Rebel City Distillery is the first distillery in Cork city for almost 50 years. Over the last year we have painstakingly renovated the old Ford Building and transformed it into a fully functional distillery where we create, distil and bottle a unique range of spirits on-site. The distillery will produce premium spirits, which draw inspiration from around the world. Read more here.

UNIQUELY CRAFTED BEERS FROM 9 WHITE DEER

We have a range of uniquely crafted beers; our renowned pale ale, a beautiful Irish red ale, an award winning black IPA, the best stout you've ever tasted, our balanced IPA and seasonals such as our Pilsner Ól-e. Everything we do is 100% gluten free.    

Check all the latest here

MEET THE WINEMAKERS WHO SUPPLY O'BRIENS WINE 

TANDEM IN NAVARRA, SPAIN

Bodega Tandem was founded in 2003 by Alicia Eyaralar (right), José María Fraile and a small group of wine-loving friends. The winery is situated in the Yerri Valley in the northern Spanish region of Navarra.

Winemaker Elicia Eyaralar uses traditional, minimum intervention winemaking techniques in the modern boutique winery. The tanks are gravity fed and the wines undergo minimum filtration to give the best expression of the grapes. Stainless steel tanks and French oak barrels are used for winemaking and maturation.

Discover more about their wines at O'Briens here.

We'd like to remind visitors to Micil Distillery that you can rest assured you are in safe hands when you visit our distillery.

Our team are members of the Fáilte Ireland COVID-19 Safety Charter and have completed training to operate all of our tours and tastings in line with current public health advice.

Since reopening, we've reduced the capacity on our tours to ensure the safety of our guests.

This, of course, means spaces are limited so booking is advisable.

To find out more about the Micil Distillery Experience, and how you can book your spot, visit www.micildistillery.com. #MakeABreakForIt #MicilDistillery #TheSpiritOfGalway

Game of Thrones or Game of Rhônes?
Laurent Plantevin from Domaine Plantevin gets hands on with this years' harvest.

Lords and ladies, brothers and warriors — Wine is coming!

Game of Rhônes is the celebration of the great grape varieties of the Rhône Valley. The Rhône Valley has a reputation that precedes itself. It has been a hub of wine culture since Roman times and has earned an international standing for rigorous production that yields outstanding wines. Wines Direct are in the Rhone game and have 6 and 12 bottle cases here.