A packed beach as temps soar in Hendaye

Hendaye beach and below the bay at the other side of a dividing "finger" of land.
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A packed beach as temps soar in Hendaye

Sunday June 17^th

The sun was a bit late in coming to Hendaye this Sunday but once arrived, around noon, the temperatures soared and the beach soon got packed. You could hardly find a place to sit down as tout le monde, or so it seemed, turned up in the little French border town. Spent a few hours on the sand and I reckon it was the most packed beach I’ve ever been on.

Earlier, while the weather was dull and so much cooler, we took advantage to drive into Spain to the lovely little coastal town of Getaria intending to fulfil a promise to walk the coastal path from there to neighbour Zarautz, about 5.5 kilometres (approximately).

The fact that the sun wasn't out in the early part of the walk, indeed for most of the walk, took from the lovely coastal scenery as the track, adjoining the winding road (but well protected) and suspended over the sea, wove in and out following the contours of the coast.

There were hundreds out: singles, doubles, families and all kinds of small groups. It seemed to be the thing to do. Of course, you may turn back halfway if you wish. But, it being nice and reasonably cool, we made it to Zarautz and then headed back to Getaria and the sun came out as we approached the end.

Now we are back from the beach, after a refreshing dip in the pool, looking forward to dinner from the local traiteur (Axoa, minced beef in a local pepper sauce) and to a good game later in the Euros. Tough going, isn’t it?

Getaria (Spain) at end of the walk while Zarautz (below) was under cloud when we left it less than 40 minutes earlier.

Sunny Day at the Market

 Hard to beat the colour of a sunny day at a busy French Market, as we found out once again in Hendaye on Saturday. All kinds of clothes and other bits and bobs on sale but the main mission was food, as always. Got that Basque dish above for dinner that evening and it was just superb, a terrific mix of slightly spiced vegetables and tuna.

Click on pic to enlarge.

Tourist Office to the Rescue!

Tourist Office to the Rescue
And efficient cheap transport in France.
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Theatre in San Sebastian

Fish display in San Sebastian

The Eusko Tren is well signed in San Sebastian

Kursaal centre in in San Sebastian

On the one day, we let someone else do the driving, the someone else didn’t turn up!

We had booked a private bus trip from Hendaye to San Sebastian, via the local tourist office, only for the bus driver to “forget” he had passengers in Hendaye and was down in the Spanish town before we and the Tourist Office, across the road from the stop, found out what was going on.

Quite a cock-up. But the Tourist Office came to the rescue in a big way and that was how we found out so much about the efficiency of and reasonable fares on the French public transport system.

Firstly, we were told to grab a local bus and get to the rail station. The local buses cost nothing while the narrow-gauge rail trip to San Sebastian cost just €2.80 per person return. We enjoyed our trip to the beautiful Spanish city and returned to the Hendaye tourist office the next day to sort out refunds and so on.

By then, the bus company had come in and offered a full refund and a trip on any other of their excursions. We had been looking at the one to Bilbao (including the Guggenheim) and that was what we choose.

The only problem about it was that we’d have to travel about 13 kilometres up the coast to the bus office who apparently wanted to deal with it personally. As it turned, we were at a loose end that afternoon and took the bus as the man in the Tourist Office suggested. Might as well take a stroll around the lively St Jean as one around Hendaye. The bus, believe it or not, cost a euro!

Beach of St Jean

Cool sup as temps hit 30s on Thurs 14th June

It took us right to the bus company’s office where we met Sandrine who knew all about us, even if she had no English. But we got on well. She refunded us our 34 euro straight away and then produced the tickets for Bilbao and apologised.

We were glad to accept. We all make mistakes but it is how you deal with it them that counts and I think both the Tourist Office (where each and every member of staff that we met was helpful) and the bus company dealt with us well and now we are looking forward to Bilbao next Wednesday.

The major memory for us from this faux pas by the bus driver is the efficiency and low cost of public transport in France. That Eusko Tren (Basque Train) to San Sebastian was punctual, state of the art with regard to messages flashed across as electronic banners (the station you were at, the side to get off, the time, the temperature, the next station) and was spotless. And the €2.80 for the 45 minute return trip was incredible.

Incredible too was that one euro cost for the 25 minute trip from Hendaye to St Jean and we had a very helpful driver aboard as well. Next time, I get tired of driving, I’ll be quite happy to take the public transport, maybe the private one too (after Wednesday next!)

San Sebastian. One of the beautiful cities.

Top: Outdoor Pieta at St Vincent's. Below: Indoor head at St Vincent's, Cork not only city with a cow, and mariner Antonio de Oquendo

On Friday, we headed for San Sebastian, going by narrow gauge EuskaTren (Basque train) from Hendaye. We reached the Amara station and then strolled up Easo Street. We knew what to expect, had been there before.

But still the gorgeous view at the end of the street, the elegant curve surrounding La Concha beach, the old buildings nearby, the hill of Monto Urgull, the blue skies, the golden sands, took our breath away. Here we were in one of the most beautiful cities in the world.

Coastal sculpture (by Chillida) and schoolkids

Then we headed, past the City Hall, into the compact old city,making for the market (Bretxa). Amazingly, McDonald's have been given a front entrance here. The real market though is down below. Amazing food stalls.  Then we found Constitution Square full of delivery vans! The square was once used as a bull ring and the numbers on the apartments were once used for booking your seat.

Beaches and churches

Made our way then to the church of Santa Maria (left, above), passed by the Naval Museum and Aquarium and headed for the Paseo Nouevo, the road that runs around Monte Urgull. It is also a beautiful coastal walk, so we did it, admiring the Chillida sculpture as we started off. Not too long afterwards, we found  ourselves entering the other side of the old city with the huge Kraal conference centre across the river Urumea, spanned by a variety of bridges, some very ornate indeed. Then we called to the church of San Vincenze, the city's oldest, and also saw the museum of San Telmo.

Stayed close to the river, walking past some more spectacular older buildings, such as the Victoria Eugene Theatre before cutting in to see the church of Buen Pastor.

We did make a one or two food and drink stops, coffee and a slice of tart for about €2.70, and also some shopping before all the walking in the heat (31/2 degrees) began to take its toll and so we headed back down Easo Street and the train back to Hendaye.

City Hall

The sheltered bay: Mount Urgull on right.
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On the mountain edge. Steering into the blue sky

On the mountain edge. Steering into the blue sky.
Thursday June 14th
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Got an unexpected drive into the high Pyrenees today and it turned out to be a sensational ear popping experience and that even before we reached our main target which was the Himalayan style hanging bridge of Holtzarte that gently swings some 200 meters above the wooded gorge below.

The drive was unexpected in two ways. We had been scheduled to visit San Sebastian but a transport malfunction put paid to that. So we headed east to the Pyrenees and then Suzy, our Sat-Nav lady, took over, taking us off course on the N310.

As we rose into the air on narrow farmer’s roads, in an area where they make the famous Ossau Iraty sheep cheese, the scenery became ever more spectacular, the road ever narrower. Sometimes as you rounded a bend all you saw was sky. Not the time to get dizzy!

She should have picked another road, the D18, which was quite spectacular itself as we found on the way home. The delay cost us quite a bit of time but the trip up to the heights – I reckon some of the passes were around 1600 metres – was memorable.

As we began to come down we reached the entrance to the valley where the town of Larrau is situated. Had to climb again and then down again, temperatures dropping and then rising. The starting point for the hanging bridge of Holtzarte is a few kilometres beyond Larrau. We found the car park and started up a fairly tough path.

Some of it isn’t too bad but parts are quite rocky. Here and there one gets help from “steps” and a wire at the side but the heat made it tough going and only part of the walk is in shade. But, about fifty minutes later, we agreed it was worth it as we viewed the gorge and then took ourselves across the passerelle which swayed rather gently above that massive drop. Phew!

Fashioned two rough walking sticks that helped in the walk back down. Took our time and made it safely to the nearby Logibar Auberge. Food no great shakes but sure as hell enjoyed the beer and the mini pizza. On the way home, we stopped off at a traiteur and picked up some gorgeous paupiette du veau for dinner.

• The reason the trip to San Sebastian was cancelled (for us) was that the tour driver, who started up the coast,”forgot” he had passengers in Hendaye. Another story but with quite a good ending and no hard feelings!

Wine and Fashion in Spanish Gem

Vineyards above the town

One of Getaria's beaches

Fashion Museum

Inside Balenciaga

Getaria's church, built over a tunnel.

Wine and Fashion in Spanish Gem


Wednesday June 13th
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Getaria, on the coast between San Sebastian and Bilbao, is one of the prettiest Spanish villages we’ve come across on this trip. We called back there on Thursday to take a walk around the Txakoli vineyards.

For a while we walked over an old cobbled path that was once part of the pilgrim route to Santiago and just a few hundred yards from the roundabout in the centre of the town found the first of the vineyards from which this dry acidic wine is made. The vines are grown high and are then trained out along supports.

Back in the town, we called into a bar for a glass of you know what. They pour it from a height, about shoulder high, into sturdy tumblers, releasing both extra flavours and the fizz. Refreshing. So we went off and bought some to bring home.

Getaria also has a little black number that you hardly know is there until you take the outdoor elevator up to it: the Cristobal Balenciaga Museum. Now a fashion history museum would hardly be my ideal way of spending a sunny hour but the dressmaker with me was keen and I must admit I found the story fascinating.

First of all the Museum itself is worth a look. And not just inside. Take a walk around the outside. Inside, you first take the lift upstairs and see the permanent exhibitions.

Balenciaga was born here and the six shows follow his life, from the Early Days, to his Day Wear, Cocktail, Evening, Wedding and then a computer aided display of the fascinating technique that he employed as he brought fashion into the sixties, all there before your eyes.

There are also temporary exhibitions and the one currently on studies the development of the Mannequin. In fashion, it really is amazing how things always seem to come around. Balenciaga’s Bat Wing sleeves from 1952 are back in style. Must tell my girls, at least the one who is wearing them!
* Earlier post on Getaria here

A new drink for the repertoire

Txakoli

Pacharan! The new one for me.

Made a first call last evening to the Chez Kake. The Basque menu above, five courses for 20 euro, was the attraction. 

The starter was superb, a great variety of charcuterie on the one plate. They had run out of the first part of the main dish but we got extra of the beef mince and those spuds were balls of flour! Then followed the cheese course, the Etonki with the cherry jam. The Gateau Basque was the best we've come across this trip, just a narrow band of the creamy custard, between two slices of almond flavoured pastry.

And then came that drink, Patcharan (sometimes Pacharan), new to me. It is a lovely warming aniseed flavoured drink, with an ABV in the early 20s.

Purchased some more of it in a local wine store the following day (Saturday). Saturday in fact was something of a day of rest, almost: a trip to the market, expanded for its Saturday session in the port, a swim in the pool, a call to the tourist office to book a bus trip to San Sebastian, then a walk along the rugged cliffs (the path was pretty rugged also!), later a call to that wine store where we were served by a guy from Cardiff, then to the beach to see over a hundred surfers or more do their stuff, then back to see some of Euro 2012 on a fast talking Spanish station. And that will take us through to Sunday for which the forecast is pretty dire, so that Ireland v Croatia game could come in handy!

The Basque Heart of Oak. And messin' about on the river.

The Basque Heart of Oak. 
And messin' about on the river.

Before I was born, Nazi aircraft, at Franco's request, bombed and machine-gunned the small Basque town of Gernika-Lomo, better known to me and many more as Guernica, mainly because of Picasso's painted tribute to the hundreds and hundreds of dead and injured. 

For centuries before that, Basque leaders assembled under an oak on a hillside near the town. It was over 300 years old when it caught fire in 1860. Now the petrified truck stands in a guarded place of honour. A place to be visited and I'm glad that I did even, if I had only a few minutes as the security had to go off to lunch at 2.00pm and wouldn't be back 'til four.

The town itself, with a population of about 16,000, is a busy spot. Must say, I have never seen so much double parking as I saw here!

More pics here

After the visit to Gernika, we headed up the twisty high roads and then down at the other side to the beautiful coastal town of Lekeitio (7,500). It has a lovely harbour and a beach alongside with an island, San Nicolas, that may be walked to when the tide is out. The Gothic church of Basilica de la Asuncion de Santa Maria overlooks the harbour.

We were entertained here for a while by a group of children being taught how to handle canoes in the harbour. They had two adults in charge but showed great confidence on and in the water as they went through their exercises. Seemed to be quite a lot of sports training going on at both sides of the border, to an extent not seen in Ireland.

The last coastal call we made was to the town of Ondarroa. Don't know if we caught it on  a bad day or a bad year or if we came in on the wrong side but this wasn't a pretty place. Pretty grim really, with too many high rises. Still the kids played and the dogs ran. 

But the camera didn't come out until we were about to depart when a big women's bike race came in. Traffic was stopped but there seemed little local interest as the riders flashed by.

After that, it was back to the motorway and, after a fill of cheap petrol, back to France.

Dinner at La Cabane du Pecheur

Thursday June 7th

Back at The Cabin


For the second time in a week, we were back for dinner at La Cabane du Pecheur on the Quai de la Floride with its views over the port of Hendaye. Once again, two happy customers left to take the short walk back to our apartment.

Foie Gras de Canard des Landes

Soupe des Poisson

Filet de Daurade Sauvage (Bream)

Chiperons a la plancha facon luzienne (Squid)

La verrine mascarpone

Mi-cuit au chocolat