A Quart of Ale± #29 Moving on over to craft. Lager Variations

A Quart of Ale± #29

Moving on over to craft.

Lager Variations

Kinnegar's Rachel knows her Rye! - Brewery pic.

Cotton Ball “Mayfield 5” Pilsner Lager 5.0%, 500ml bottle via Cotton Ball off licence

Mid amber colours, fountains of little bubbles, white head hangs around for a good spell. A modest touch of hops in the aromas. The refreshment factor immediately appears on the smooth palate, spot on balance between hops and malts. A thirst cutting clean bitterness rounds off an excellent lager experience.

They say: This beer sure does have character! The classic brew to compliment party food.This inviting pilsner goes down smoothly with gourmet burgers, pizzas or wings. A perfect hit at BBQs and a great choice for alfresco dining. Now available in cans.

My local brewery

In their Brewery Room, the family pay tribute to the bar founder, one Humphrey Lynch, who left Ballyvourney at 15 years of age and settled in an American town known as Byefield which he later used in naming his Cork estate house. 

After working for two years with Joseph Longfellow, cousin to the famous poet, he worked for a year in the shipyard at Newburyport until the American civil war broke out. 

He was one of the first to enlist in the 4th U.S regiment light artillery battery and served through 27 general engagements principally in the army of the southwest and along the Mississippi valley. Then he worked for 14 years as a foreman of the picker room in Newburyport cotton mill. 

This would later give him the name for the public house (where you’ll now find the small brewery) he purchased in now Mayfield after returning to Ireland in the 1870’s. Nowadays, each bottle bears an image of American Civil War veteran Humphrey paying tribute to the man who showed the way. 

12 Acres Pallet Jack India Pale Lager 5.0%, 440 can via Ardkeen QFS

While the hops shine in the aromatics, it looks very much like a lager, golden, bright and bubbles galore.  Soft head has a fair bit of staying power. Hard to beat their own summation on the label: a hoppy Pilsner style lager, light, crisp and fruity, with an excellent mouthfeel. It is indeed and quite refreshing too.

They say, on the website: “Pallet Jack” is a 5% India Pale Lager. A clean crisp fruity Pilsner style Lager beer with the hoppy bitterness and flavour of an IPA. Not too sure I’d agree with that bit: flavour of an IPA. Strong hints of it for sure but this is still more lager than IPA and a pretty decent lager, a very decent drink, at that. 

They say: 12 Acres Brewing company is the first craft brewery in Ireland that can provide traceability for its malting barley. This is possible due to our long-standing relationship with their local malting company. We are also brewing with our own spring water, which originates from a source deep beneath the same land.

Stone Barrel “Get Some” India Pale Lager 4.6%, 440 can via Bradley’s

Another hybrid with elements of ale and lager in your mid amber coloured glass. It is an American hopped lager, double dry hopped with Loral, which has been noted as good for sessional and lager-type beers.

The base is lager, clean and crisp. Aromas and flavours have a punch of pepper, citrus notes too along with some floral wafts as well, all followed by a dry finish. Quite a decent beer, approachable and balanced, though I think my local brewery’s Indian Summer is perhaps the best of this hybrid type. You could say I’m biased!

Niall Fitzgerald and Kevin McKinney are the founders, brewers and driving force behind Stone Barrel Brewing. “We both have a huge passion and appetite for all things in craft beer, from making to drinking and everything in between.We launched Stone Barrel in November 2013 with one simple aim, to brew the kind of craft beers we love drinking. The good thing is that we love them all! Like most homebrewers, we dreamed of one day opening a brewery. So, after a lot of planning, stress, blood, sweat, tears and hugs, we’re here. We’re living the dream and dreaming of beer!”

Kinnegar “Brewers at Play “10” Rye Lager 4.4%, 440 can via Bradley’s

Rye. Brewery pic.

Colour of this excellent lager from Letterkenny is a light gold and if you look closely you’ll see lots of little bubbles (not bunnies) rising through the cloudiness. In the mouth, it is immediately refreshing, crisp and clean as most classic lagers with a little spicy zest coming through from the rye along with a distinctive flavour. Good sharp-edged finish on this well-balanced one. It is a once-off by the way!

They say: The Brewers at Play series presents new beers designed to keep our brewers on their toes and our customers on tenterhooks. Kinnegar’s love affair with rye began with our iconic Rustbucket. With No.10 in the Brewers at Play series we find out what happens when we continue the adventure with a rye lager.

I often mention the head when talking about beers here. It is not of course a really crucial part but it does make the beer look better especially if it stays for a while. Sticking your finger into the head and sucking can sometimes give you a clue as to what you can expect when you start drinking (it may also get you some curious stares), as I was once shown by the Belgian beer sommelier Marc Stroobant.

A Quart of Ale± #25. Moving on over to craft . Another round of IPA

A Quart of Ale± #25

Moving on over to craft 

Did you hear? Fidelity, with Whiplash, is back in 2021. Dates, ticket details here.

Another round of IPA

12 Acres “Make Hay” Session IPA 3.8%, 440ml can Ardkeen Store

When I was making hay, it was usually a bottle of the black stuff that was produced, more than just a bottle if we were threshing. But either way that was for the older fellows - we pale pioneer-pinned youths had to make do with tea and scones (pretty good too!). This County Laois farm do it differently.

This “Make Hay” session IPA from the 12 Acres Brewery has a lemon colour, a herd of bubbles galloping up through the haze. Aromas are citrus with a touch of clean pine. On the palate, it is assertively hoppy with a mix of peach, mango and the citrus enveloping that malt body and the finish is also hoppy.

This flavoursome easy-drinking IPA has more bite than you’d expect from a 3.8 abv, due to late hops additions (Citra and Amarillo). Other ingredients include their own pale ale malt, some oats and Munich malt. Put it on your session list!

Another well-made beer from the Co. Laois brewery where Our Land to Your Glass is the logo, based on the fact that all of the water used and some of the barley comes from the family farm. “The 12 Acres field on our farm is where we have been growing malting barley for the brewing industry for generations. Now we are craft brewing our own beer and we’ve named it after one of the fields where the barley is grown”.

Kinnegar Bucket & Spade Session Rye IPA 4.2%, 440ml can Ardkeen Store 

Colour is a foggy gold, white head fades away to a the barest of covers in no time, leaving the merest lacing on the glass. This easy drinking Rye IPA is unfiltered and naturally carbonated. You notice the rye influence in the aromas (touch of spice too) and also as you sip this fresh fruity (citrus) session beer from the Donegal brewery who have more than one rye on their portfolio. Fruit and bitterness are well balanced here and the malt too keeps its end up making it one of my favourites from the list, though not one of their core beers. 

Nice little extra time bonus as the Ireland v Slovakia continues past the 90th minute and, after extra time, into the shootout. And then, suddenly, there was a little more bitterness than previously! C’est du sport.

Wicklow Wolf Eden Session IPA 3.8%, 330ml can via Ardkeen Store

This easy-drinking session IPA is pale and hazy. Pine and tropical fruit in the aromas. Those fruits along with bitterness in the palate and here the malts play a part in making this a well balanced beer. Under 4 per cent but a session beer with a flavour packed punch. Pretty much a perfect session drink.

This  is unfiltered and unpasteurised. Hops are El Dorado and Chinook while malts are Pale, Cara Ruby, Flaked Oats. IBU is 35 

They say:Wicklow, because that is where we opened our brewhouse. Wolf, because the last one ranged freely across the Wicklow countryside, and because the hops we plant on our farm takes its name ‘humulus lupulus’ from that wild and proud creature.

Firestone “Easy Jack” IPA 4.0% , 12 fl ozs Bradley’s

“Hoppy goodness with even more drinkability.”  Easy Jack’s got a light amber colour and a white head that reigns briefly.  It’s clear, so you see a myriad of bubbles rising. The bubbles don’t get get up your nose but the hop aromas do. Excellent balance in this can, terrific harmony between hops and malt, and a full body to enjoy as well. A good one but plenty of Irish IPAs are as good and quite a few better.

A few figures: 4% abv, 40 IBU, 5.5 colour, 120 calories.

They say: Easy Jack is a different breed of IPA, brewed and dry hopped with a globetrotting selection of newer hop varieties from Germany, New Zealand and North America. 

Hops

 Kettle: CTZ, Amarillo, Simcoe

 Dry Hops: Mosaic, Mandarina, Melon, Citra, Amarillo

Malts: Two Row, Wheat, Cara Pils, Oats, Munich, Crystal Light

The story: Firestone Walker Brewing Company began innocently enough: two brothers-in-law—Adam Firestone and David Walker—debating the subject of good and bad beer. Their search for a decent local ale finally led them to brew their own starting in 1996. The original Firestone Walker brewery was located in a converted shed on the family vineyard.

Black’s Totally Tropical IPA 5.0%, 440ml can Ardkeen Store

This 2020 release from Blacks of Kinsale is billed as a “beer with a totally tropical taste”. It “brings mango and pineapple to the party” and it does, for sure, certainly with the tropical aromas. 

Perhaps, late in year, this IPA “perfect for a chill summer session”, is out of season. 

IBU is listed as 55. While I was writing that last sentence the white head had vanished, leaving a slightly hazy golden liquid with bubbles crowding up towards the top.

Food pairings recommended are BBQ Chicken skewers, Moroccan Tagine, Tipsy Cake with rum.

Bubble Brothers in the mix and much more on wine, beer and spirits in Cheers #18

Bubble Brothers in the mix and much more on wine, beer and spirits in Cheers #18

Bubble Brothers have a staycation mix for you!
We hope you're all well, and making the most of the occasional summer weather. Our website is continuing to work hard for us (thank you), but in case you haven't visited lately, we have a very attractive new offer for you—with something extra if you are able to 'click and collect'. Details here

Black's New "High" IPA

You are about to experience a brand new High PA, this unique new beer is brewed with the terpenes ( flavour and aroma oils ) extracted from the legendary cannabis strain Maui Wowie. A Strain known for its tropical favours and stress-relieving qualities hat will float you straight to the shores of Hawaii where this strain originally comes from.

A heavy mango and Pineapple base with notes of pine and pepper!

More details on the new brew and distillery progress here

O'Briens Wines Feature 12 Acres Brewing

In county County Laois one of Ireland’s finest breweries produces beer with a ‘ground to glass’ ethos. 12 Acres Brewing Co. make beer using barley grown on their family farm surrounding the brewery and with spring water drawn from deep below the land.

12 Acres is headed up by Paddy McDonald who after traveling the world with his then girlfriend, now wife Aisling, found himself back in Ireland and began to look at his employment options as Ireland emerged from recession. Thankfully, he brought something back from his travels, a love of craft beer. Read more here.

Kylie Minogue photographed at The Ritz London, August 2020, (c) Darenote Ltd.

Kylie Minogue Wines are thrilled to introduce 

the latest two wines in the Kylie Minogue Wines portfolio: the Signature Sauvignon Blanc and the Signature Merlot. Both the Sauvignon Blanc and the Merlot complete the long-awaited Kylie Minogue Wines’ Signature Range, which also includes the wildly popular and best-selling Signature Rosé, debuted in May by pop icon Kylie Minogue.

Fun and spontaneous like Kylie herself, the Signature Sauvignon Blanc originates from Gascony, in the south-west of France, and carries a fresh and lively nose of lime blossom and gooseberry, whilst zesty and crisp on the palate - described by Kylie as the perfect accompaniment with a fresh watermelon, feta and mint salad.

The Kylie Minogue Wines’ Signature Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot will be available exclusively in Ireland on www.WinesofTheWorld.ie and Carry Out Off Licences at an RRP of €12.99 from Monday 24th August.

Italy's Alto Adige: A Small Land Shows Its Greatness

Pampered by Mediterranean sun, shaped by the Alpine landscape, prepared by experienced winegrowers, and prized by wine connoisseurs throughout the world: wine from Alto Adige. Read the well-illustrated Wine-Searcher article here

A Quart of Ale± #7. Moving on over to craft with a classy quartet

A Quart of Ale± #7

Moving on over to craft with a classy quartet.

Here, and in #8, we'll be trying a few pale ales that could well help a beer drinker make the move from mass produced stuff to a really good beer. As it happens, the quartet are Irish, and each is very approachable indeed. If you're a bit unsure as to where to start, why not try the Ambush and then move on back up to the Howling Gale (my favourite of the four).

Eight Degrees Howling Gale Pale Ale 4.5%, 440ml can, Bradley’s of Cork

With its familiar label statement of Fresh Citrus and Grapefruit, Howling Gale blew into our lives about nine years ago. We’ve changed a lot since then but not this superb ale, one they got more or less correct from the off, and is still their most popular beer.

You get a smack around the gills, they say, when you sup this refreshing ale. But nothing fishy about this Ballyhoura hero, perfectly formed from day one. Pleasant citrus aroma from the Cascade and Simcoe Hops, these hops and sweet malt harmonious on the palate and the bittering hops are waiting for you at the finalé. No shortage of carbonation in this mid-amber ale and no regrets when you pull that tab and pour. Enjoy - you’re in good company.

They say: This Irish Pale Ale delivers a refreshing crisp smack around the gills. With a pleasant grapefruit citrus aroma from Cascade and Simcoe hops, it has a biscuit malt sweetness, followed by an attractive bitter finish.

Style: Irish Pale Ale
Malt: Irish pale malt, Carapils, Munich, Cara
Hops: Nugget, Cascade, Simcoe
Strength: 4.5% ABV
Bitterness: 38 IBUs

As always, Eight Degrees come up with Food Pairings:  Pale Ales are traditionally seen a great foil for spicy food – there’s a little bit of sweetness there that will cut the chilli burn – but don’t miss the chance to have Howling Gale with fish and chips (or in the batter for the fish!). It’s well worth trying with a Cashel Blue and Broccoli Gratin, the bright citrus notes act like a squeeze of lemon with smoked salmon or pair it with semi-soft, washed rind cheeses like Milleens, Durrus and Gubbeen.

12 Acres Pale Ale 4.6abv, 500ml bottle, SuperValu

This golden Pale Ale is the flagship beer from the 12 Acres Brewery in County Laois. Our Land to Your Glass is the logo here, based on the fact that all of the water used and some of the barley comes from the family farm.

Mid-amber is the colour, slightly hazy and not that much carbonation going on. The white head stays for a while but soon contracts to a thin disc. Aromas are modest. 

Their own plus “a small quantity of three other European speciality malts” add texture and a sweet caramel flavour on the palate before the three American hops (Cascade, Willamette and Citra) get their say towards the end.

They say the beer has more emphasis on the malt flavour than a traditional APA, has a distinctive American Pale Ale bitterness and citrus flavour. “Our pale ale is also dry hopped to give a lovely tropical fruit aroma to the finished beer. Best served 6-8 degrees. It goes great with spicy foods!”

Wicklow Wolf Elevation Pale Ale 4.8%, 440ml can Bradley’s of Cork

Nice bright amber colour with bubbles rushing to the white head that soon fades away. A mildly hoppy aroma. The hops edge it on the palate, good flavour overall and a very easy-drinking beer, welcome as a once off or for a session. Another excellent effort, a more or less perfect Pale Ale, from the Wolf.

They say: An incredibly drinkable Pale Ale bursting with juicy fruits of pineapple and grapefruit from an abundance of hop additions. Refreshing.

Food pairings: roasted or grilled meat.

Cheese Mild or medium cheddar.

Serve at 8 degrees. It is unfiltered, unpasteurised and the IBU is 40.

Hops: Mosaic, Mandarina Bavaria, Calypso

Malt: Pale, Cara Ruby, Melano, Wheat.

Trouble Brewing Ambush Juicy Pale Ale, 5.0%, 440ml can, Bradley's of Cork

This is a hazy beer (little evidence of carbonation) with a light straw colour, and a soft white head that slowly sinks. Exotic fruit aromas, mango and pineapple, hops too, in the mix. And then much the same fruits combining delightfully on the palate, this juicy pale ale, with its moderately hoppy backbone, makes you stop and take notice. 

You’ve been ambushed. So, sit back and relax with each silky juicy mouthful (make that each sip - you’ll want to let the magic linger), as you’ve got one of the best of class in your hand.

Malts used are Irish Pale, Oats (credited with imparting the smoothness), Carapils and Crystal while hops are Mosaic, El Dorado and Citra. 

They say: Trouble Brewing is a craft brewery based in Kill, Co. Kildare, set up in 2009 by three close friends Paul, Thomas and Stephen. Trouble Brewing is one of a small number of Irish breweries producing quality craft beer in order to offer people an alternative to the large multinationals, that spend more money on advertising than on ingredients, and specialise in bland.

Tawny. Muscat. Topaque. Top Sweet Wines from Australia.

Tawny. Muscat. Topaque.
Top Sweet Wines from Australia.

Australia’s wine industry began with sweet fortified wines and the stickies were in great form at the Australia Day Tasting last Monday in Dublin’s Royal Hibernians Academy.

I was determined to concentrate on the Focus Table, this year featuring a selection of 31 wines by Irish wine personalities who have a keen interest in Australia, including Liam Campbell, Martin Moran, Harriet Tindal, Colm McCan (Ballymaloe) and Gavin Ryan (Black Pig, Kinsale). The figure was supposed to be 24 wines but it did get extended.

Chris Pfeiffer

It included three sweet wines so I had to be patient, working my way through the white and the red before getting my hands on them. The d’Arenberg ‘Nostalgia Rare’, a McLaren Vale Tawny, more tawny port style than ruby, according to Liam Campbell’s note, was delicious. McCan’s choice, the Skillogalee ‘Liqueur’ Clare Valley Muscat NV, from Dave and Diane Palmer, poured slowly from the stubby bottle, a sweet stream, sweet but with balance.

And it was the Pfeiffer Wines Rutherglen Muscat NV, a Martin Moran pick, with its heady complexity and orange notes that was my favourite of the trio.

And there were more from the Rutherglen area at the Liberty Wine table, sipped as we chatted with Gerry Gunnigan and new recruit Marcus Gates. First up was the Chambers Rosewood Muscat à Petits Grains Rouge NV (€18.99) and the direct comparison was with the ‘Old Vine’ Rutherglen Muscat à Petits (34.99).

The first is unctuous and rich, yet balanced. The ‘Old Vine’ , with orange, raisin and floral aromas, and a concentration of riches on the amazing palate, and again that balance. Both delicious but, if feeling flush, go for the Old Vine which has had the benefit of going through their specific Solera System.

Back then to visit Chris and Robyn Pfeiffer at their stand and, first to try their Topaque Rutherglen Muscadelle NV (previously called Tokay). “This is 100% Moscatel. It is well ripened. There is plenty of accumulated sugar but we don't lose the fruit.” And this luscious flavour-full wine is another stickie gem.

On a previous visit to Cork, Chris revealed that the table wines “pay” for the fortified wines which are regarded as “an accountant’s nightmare, because they tie up so much capital”. Fortunately, thanks to people like Chris, the accountants don't always have their way. “Fortified wines are undervalued...they deliver great punch for your pound!”

Colm picked a good one.

And, on that occasion, at The Hayfield Manor, I had the pleasure of sampling the even rarer Pfeiffer Grand Muscat. It is twenty years old and has spent most of that time in barrel. “It is a very special occasion wine (like old Cognac). It is very complex and you don't need much.”

That left me wishing for a tasting of their Rare Muscat, four years older than the Grand. “Like to get a  sip or two of that sometime”, I said to myself that night. And it finally happened in the RHA when Robyn produced a bottle and we drank the amazing wine, clinking our glasses in honour of the departed Joe Karwig, the wine-person’s wine-person who left us too soon (in late 2015). A fitting end to my stickie excursion at the Australia Day Tasting.

See also: A general review of the Australian tasting, with emphasis on Irish Focus Table

Rich and rare

Robyn Pfeiffer and Johnny McDonald

Highbank Organic Orchards. Hundreds of Apple Trees. Billions of Microbes

Highbank Organic Orchards

Hundreds of Apple Trees. Billions of Microbes

I’m walking through long rows of apple trees, all in blossom, pink and white abound. The grass between is ankle height, lush and liberally populated with white daisies. Lush, but recently topped. Had I been there a week earlier, I would have seen battalions of dandelions.

I am in Kilkenny, in the healthy heart of Highbank Orchards, an organic farm owned and managed by Rod and Julie Calder-Potts.  This is excellent land for farming, recognised as such for many centuries - even the Normans had their eyes on it.  The farm-yard is 17th century, the house is 19th, and the distillery (which I've come to see) is 21st.  

Rod in the new distillery

Now though, on a lovely May evening, all is calm as Rod takes us through the orchard, though not through all its twenty acres. Fourteen of these are mature, planted with quite a few varieties, including Dabinett, Blusher, Bramley and, scattered in among the others, that lovely juicy Katy. Katy is an early apple and has lost its blossoms.

Nothing has been sprayed here for twenty years. It is not that nothing ever threatens the apple trees but they are essentially healthy and can look after themselves. And Rod reckons much of that is down to the microbes in the soil, billions of them, all "working", not necessarily together - some eat one another - but combining to preserve the habitat. They are not disturbed, not traumatized by chemicals, and so the orchards live on and thrive. “Soil health depends on a thriving population of organisms”, says Dan Barber in The Third Plate.

Orchard spirit!

The next big occasion for the orchard is, of course, the harvest. The Calder-Potts keep the apples on the trees for as long as possible, indeed they allow them fall off naturally when fully ripe. Then they are swept up and taken to the nearby yard.

They are transferred then to the apple press, an expensive piece of kit, and the juice is extracted to be used in the delicious products that Highbank now produces: Apple Juice, Apple Juice with Organic Mulled Spices, their famous Orchard Syrup (Ireland's answer to maple syrup and launched in 2010), Highbank Drivers Cider (a delicious, sparkling refreshing non-alcoholic drink), Highbank Proper Cider, and a honeyed Medieval Cider.

Proper cider!

Recently they have moved up the ABV scale with the installation of their little distillery and are making Gins, Pink Flamingo Gin and the premium Crystal Gin. And there’ll be more! We enjoyed the tour of the bright new distillery. It is small. The operation is small-scale, bottling is done by hand. Small yes, but these are top class products.

Highbank is the setting for many events but most notably, from a food point of view, they have hosted the Keith Bohanna Bia Beag series with subjects such as artisan bread, locally roasted coffee, bean to bar chocolate. And, of course, there is the Highbank Christmas Food and Craft Fair.

They are a busy couple and you’ll see them at markets and food festivals all over the country, including most recently, Sheridan’s and Ballymaloe LitFest. Besides, they are involved in promoting good food generally. Kilkenny too is naturally close to their hearts and so we couldn't have had a better guide on a quick Saturday morning run through the marble city than Julie.

She showed us, with pride, restaurants such as Zuni and the Salt Yard, Slice of Heaven and its newly opened cookery school, the food hall at the Kilkenny Design Centre. Then you need something to serve your food in so off we went to Nicholas Mosse in Bennettsbridge, you need some nice lighting while dining and we got that at nearby Moth to a Flame (Larry Kinsella’s hand-made candles) and you also need something nice to look at on your walls and shelves and we found plenty of that at the Bridge Pottery.

Needless to say, the credit card took a bit of a hammering. On the previous afternoon, left to my own devices, I was on the drinks trail! Called to Billy Byrne’s Pub (the Bula Bus and its excellent onboard restaurant is parked in the back) and sipped some nice local beer by Ger Costello and a pale ale from 12 acres.

Of course, I couldn't leave Kilkenny without calling to Le Caveau. Pascal himself was busy on the road but we did take advantage of the reductions for Real Wine Month and went off happy with a couple of his organic wines.

And it was the drink that brought us to Kilkenny in the first place! In Highbank's internet competition earlier in the year, I won a meal at The Strawberry Tree and, in addition, I also won a bottle of Highbank's new Crystal Gin and that was in the car with us as we said au revoir to the Marble City and to two of its outstanding citizens, the Calder-Potts.

Le Caveau (left) and Bennettsbridge (from the Nicholas Mosse pottery)

See also: Wild and Organic Tasting Menu at The Strawberry Tree, Macreddin.
The Beautiful Gardens at Powerscourt Estate
Highbank Crystal Gin - Taste of the Week
In St Kevin's Footsteps at Glendalough
The Brooklodge Hotel in Macreddin Village