Across Northern Spain. On A Red Wine Trail

Across Northern Spain

On A Red Wine Trail

Checking out the Garnacha in Rioja

Let’s take a trip across the north of the Spain and sip a few red wines. We start in Penedes, near Barcelona on the east coast, in the country of the Catalans, and head west to the Basque country (País Vasco).

Maybe you've been to Barcelona. Sitges perhaps? Then you won't have been very far from the vineyards of Albet i Noya. You’ll no doubt have heard of the bulls running and other crazy goings on in Pamplona. Those of you seeking a something a little quieter may well have headed to Santacara, the location where our Marco Real wine comes from.

And if you’ve made it to that vineyard in Navarra, then head west for about an hour and you’ll arrive at Hacienda Grimon which is pretty close to Logrono, the capital of the political area known as La Rioja. The wine area is simply Rioja. Let’s go. Vamonos (Spanish) or Goazen (Basque). Warning: translations by Google!

Albet i Noya Tempranillo, Penedes (DO) 2014, 13%, €14.50, Mary Pawle Wines

Violet is the colour of this Catalan wine and there are subtle aromas of dark and red berries. It is young and juicy and gorgeous, strawberry and raspberry flavours now, good acidity with fine tannins and a dry finish to enjoy.

In Catalonia, at least on the Spanish side of the mountains, Tempranillo is known as Ull de Llebre. This too is on the bottle along with quite a few other Catalan words! You’ll have no doubts about the place where the Albet i Noya wines are made.

Neither will you have any doubts but that they are passionate about their organic wines; they been a pioneer since 1978. “We never measure the effort according to the difficulty. All that matters is the end result and that will only ever be optimal if the whole process is meticulous from the roots up.”

“We believe in what we do and how we do it.” And, so do I! This is one of their basic wines and is Highly Recommended.

Marco Real Finca Corraliza de los Roncaleses, Navarra (DO), tinto 2014, 15%, €15.50 Karwig Wines

Colour of this tinto (red wine) is purple; you’ll note the legs are slow to clear from the glass, a sign that there’s high alcohol here! For the second time, firstly some time back with the 2012 and now with the 2014, I find it hard to agree with the “floral” aromas noted on the label. Seems to me to be more like dark fruit. There you go!

There is quite a body here, fruit and spice plus matching acidity, well-balanced (considering the high ABV), fine tannins and a good long finish. Smooth, elegant and refreshing and Very Highly Recommended. Note the suggested serving temperature below.

Winery info: Wine made with grapes that are hand-picked from the best Garnacha vines, owned by the Belasco Family, at “Corraliza de los Roncaleses” in Santacara. Upon arrival at the winery the grapes are manually selected and then alcoholic fermentation takes place at 23ºC followed by a long maceration of 20 days to endow the wine with optimal finesse and elegance. The wine is then aged in French oak barrels for 5 months. Recommended serving temperature: between 12 and 14ºC.

Hacienda Grimon Rioja (DOC) Crianza 2013, 13.5%, €17.45 Le Caveau

This wine, produced using organic principles (no herbicide, no pesticide, fertiliser is sheep manure and the fruit is hand-harvested), comes from a little known corner of Rioja Alta. It is a 100% Tempranillo, according to the label (other sources suggest a small proportion of Graciano); it has been aged in French and American oak for 14 months (much longer than the regulation six) and there is a pay-off.

It has quite a dark colour, between violet and purple, with aromas of dark fruit, hints of spice. On the palate, there is an immediate appreciation of the soft attack; the wine is smooth and rich, some pepper, fine tannins; balance is perfect thanks to the fresh acidity and this close to full bodied wine is Highly Recommended.

Taste of the Week. Pecorino Vincenzo

Taste of the Week

Pecorino Vincenzo

I love my sheep’s cheese, from the Cratloe Hills of County Clare to the heights of Ossau Irraty in the Pyrenees, not forgetting the superb Crozier Blue. Now I’ve got a new love all the way from the banks of the River Toon in County Cork.

I’ve had a few brief encounters with this Pecorino Vincenzo over the past few weeks and liked it. But the affair got serious when we met again at a stall in Mahon Point Farmers Market last week. This time, I got really stuck in to this amazing hard cheese, our Taste of the Week.

Pecorino is the general name for sheep’s cheese in Italy. But this beguiling Pecorino is made in Toons Bridge by Vincenzo to a family recipe from his native Marche region and is one of a brilliant bunch of cheeses, including Cacio Cavallo and Scamorza, coming from this little country crossroads not too far from Macroom. Vincenzo has a small herd of sheep nearby.

This is the official dairy description: Pecorino Vincenzo is made from raw milk and is a dry cheese suitable for the table and grating. It is sweet and has a little piccante when aged to its limit. It is best around 6 weeks, but this also depends on the size of the wheel.

All a bit mundane really for a cheese with such complex flavours. This is really classy (and priced accordingly).

These cheeses are generally suitable for grating and cooking and, according to the Retailers Guide to the Fine Cheeses of Europe, are particularly good for fondues, omelettes, sauces, soups and sprinkling over savour dishes. I’m finding it irresistible on its own though.

Toons Bridge Dairy

Toons Bridge

Macroom

County Cork

Email: toonsbridgeshop@therealoliveco.com

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ToonsBridge/?fref=ts

Twitter: @ToonsBridge

Tel: 087 3457790 (opening hours only)

Cafe: Fri-Sat 12.30-4.00; Sun 12.30-6.00.

Shop: Fri-Sat 11.00-9.00; Sun 11.00-7.00

The Russell. A Right Royal Venue

The Russell

A Right Royal Venue

After a day “digging” into Ireland's Ancient East, it was time to eat. Headed into Navan, a few miles from our delightful base at Teltown House, and a table in the stylish room at The Russell. Got a warm welcome at the bar and we were soon seated at our table by the window. Sank back into the comfortable chairs and began to study the menu, well the specials mainly.

They have a long and wide-ranging menu here but both our mains came from the night's specials. I picked the Peppered Kangaroo Steak, leeks and fried black pudding, with crispy bacon and red berry jus. It was substantial, didn't expect such a plateful. But, more importantly, it was cooked to perfection. The Kangaroo was a delight, enjoyed the black pudding too and the leeks. Top notch.

Approving noises coming too from the other side of the table where CL was tucking into the Baked Sea-trout fillet with prawns, served with courgette Provençal, and Lemon beurre blanc. Another outstanding special. The trout came to €22.95 while the ‘roo was priced at €24.95.

My starter was another special and was: Crispy Duck Confit with braised red cabbage and balsamic glaze (10.95). You tend to get Duck Confit a lot nowadays, not always great, but this was excellent.

Another popular starter on Irish menus is Goat’s cheese. Their version was that bit different: Warm Apple and Goat's Cheese with crushed walnuts & a Cumberland glaze (8.00). These were both so good and so well presented that jealous eyes were wandering across the table. So a share was in order and all were happy!

Service was great and we had some lovely chats before we left this friendly place. I’m sure the desserts would have been terrific but they had us well fed and all I could manage was a wee glass of port. Sláinte!

See also: Meath and Ireland's Ancient East

Historic Martry Mill on Meath’s Blackwater

Older than the Pyramids: Newgrange and Knowth Ireland’s Ancient East Amazes

The Russell

15/16 Ludlow Street, Navan, Co. Meath

Phone: +353 46 903 1690

email : therussellrestaurantnavan@gmail.com

website: http://therussellrestaurant.ie

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/TheRussellRestaurant/home

Twitter @TheRussellNavan

Serve a September Supper for Cork Simon

Make a meal of it this September in aid of Cork Simon

 and people who are homeless

Cork Simon Community is encouraging people to throw a dinner party this September to raise funds in support of Cork Simon’s hefty food costs.  

During the month of September, The Great Cork Simon Supper will take place across Cork with friends, family, co-workers and class-mates coming together to share a meal to help provide healthy, nourishing food for people who are homeless in Cork.

Cork Simon’s annual food bill exceeds €180,000 per year. This provides nutritious food to people staying at and using all Cork Simon services, from the Emergency Shelter and High Support Houses to the Soup Run and Day Centre, every day of the year.  

Commenting on the importance of a solid meal, Tom Cremin, Acting Head of Cork Simon’s Homeless Emergency Support Services said, “wholesome food is one of the essential building blocks to people’s recovery and to rebuilding lives. For most people who come to our door, a decent meal is a distant memory. Before people can even begin to address their experiences, we find they first need the basics - sleep and a nourishing meal – they literally need to build themselves up again.”  

Cork Simon’s emergency support services are stretched to capacity. Since the beginning of this year more people than ever before – an average of 54 people per night - have depended on a Cork Simon emergency bed. Cork Simon’s Emergency Shelter normally accommodates 47 people per night.

Every €150 raised through a Great Cork Simon Supper will provide 50 people who are homeless in Cork with nutritious food for a day.

People are encouraged to host a Great Cork Simon Supper at home, at school and in the workplace this September and are invited to sign up at corksimon.ie/supper. Tips and ideas on hosting a Great Cork Simon Supper, along with downloadable invites and recipes to whet the appetite are also available from the website.

If you need ideas for your supper, help is here, lots of it!

Amuse Bouche

As food got scarcer, Ernest Hemingway, who reached Madrid in March 1937, consolidated his popularity by dint of the inexhaustible store of bacon, eggs, coffee and marmalade, whisky and gin, that he kept in his room at the Florida. International Brigade volunteers were always welcome and would always find plenty of bottles and tinned food. His stocks were both replenished and distributed by his faithful crony, Sidney Franklin, the American bullfighter…

From We Saw Spain Die by Paul Preston (2008)

Holy Smoke! Holy Water and Holy Fruit too.

Holy Smoke!

Holy Water and Holy Fruit too.

Couldn’t make it to the Big Smoke for the Big Grill in Dublin this week where local chef John Relihan was taking a leading role. But there was considerable consolation when I visited John’s local, Holy Smoke in Cork's Mardyke complex. Lots of smoked meat, Holy Fruit too for dessert and Holy Water and unholy beer (Punk) as the evening unfolded.

They don't really go in for starters here. True, there are few things to nibble but I usually go straight to the beef. Or the pork. Or the chicken. You can get some massive tray-fuls here. The largest is the BBQ Blowout (€24.50). You’ll get Brisket Burnt Ends, Dry Rubbed Baby Back Ribs, Pit Smoked BBQ Chicken, and Pulled Pork. Mega stuff. Great for a family to share or a group visit. Not too many will manage one of these on his or her own!

You’ll notice different woods on the menu here and that's because each wood has different flavour compounds. As well as the big trays, you may try the individual meats Pork, Beef, and Chicken. And Burgers too.

The Big One!

Oh, by the way, John Relihan and Holy Smoke are committed to the “sustainable sourcing of produce”. “Where possible, all of our ingredients and supplies are carefully selected from handpicked Irish producers and suppliers. We do everything we can to ensure the highest level of food provenance from field to fork.” Good to hear. I like it like that!

And what will you drink with that? There is a varying list of craft beers available, some on tap, more in bottle, and they have a direct line to Porthouse! There is even a list of cocktails and then a good selection of spirits: whiskey, bourbon, gin, vodka, tequila. And some wines too.

Beers

Beer was our choice the other night. I got a pint of Brewdog’s Punk IPA on draught and CL enjoyed her bottle of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (a beer that I rather liked myself, based on a limited, very limited, sample!).

Still, my Brewdog and some of that Holy Water went well with my twelve euro Burger, the Juicy Lucy, grilled over a sweet mixture of beech, chestnut and oak charcoal. I got a 6 ounce burger with a Gubbeen cheese core, grilled onions, mixed lettuce and beef tomato, served with naked slaw, and pickles.

Meet Lucy

 CL went for the Real Deal, also twelve euro. This is pulled pork smoked slow and low mixed with their own BBQ sauce, topped with just slaw and served with naked slaw and pickles. By the way, you get a choices of sides, so, from their Sideshow, we shared their Pit-smoked Beans and also the Skinny Fries.

Both burgers were delicious, great combinations of textures, tastes and flavours, and both sides were much appreciated as well. Really top notch burgers and the beers weren't bad either!

Desserts? Yes please. Always have time and room for their Holy Fruit. That too has been on the grill but we’d prefer it warm rather than this week’s cold version. Overall though great stuff and an enjoyable visit, made even more so by the lively, chatty and efficient service from start to finish.

Holy fruit

Holy Smoke 

Little Hanover Street, Cork

Phone: (021) 427 3000

email : holysmokecork@gmail.com 

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/HolySmokeCork/

Twitter @holysmokecork 

Wed-Thu:

5:00 pm - 10:30 pm

Fri:

5:00 pm - 11:30 pm

Sat:

4:00 pm - 11:30 pm

Sun:

4:00 pm - 10:00 pm

Hel-loo fella

Three Rivers. Three Reds. Rhone. Dordogne. Piave.

Three Rivers. Three Reds

Rhone. Dordogne. Piave.

The arena in Arles

Vines need water and no surprise then that so many of the world's best known vineyards are planted on the banks of rivers. You’re all familiar with the spectacular pictures from the Douro and the Rhine, both World Heritage sites. Two of the rivers below, the Rhône and the Dordogne, will be well known to you. I suspect that not may be the case with the Piava.

The Rhône is one of the major rivers of Europe, rising in Switzerland, passing through Lake Geneva and running through southeastern France where it splits into two near Arles - its delta encloses much of the Camargue - before entering the sea. It is 812 kilometres long.

Monbazillac, one of the sweet wine areas on the Dordogne.

Venice

The Dordogne is a river in south-central and south-west France. The river and its watershed was designated Biosphere Reserve by the UNESCO in 2012. It flows generally west about 500 kilometres through the Limousin and Périgord regions before flowing into the Gironde, its common estuary with the Garonne in Bordeaux. It flows through many vineyards, including those of Bergerac and Bordeaux, and there is much to see in terms of history (e.g. Castelnaud) and prehistory (Lascaux for example) in the area.

The Piave is the baby of these three. It begins in the Alps and flows southeast for 220 kilometres into the Adriatic Sea near the city of Venice. There is a cow's milk cheese with the same name and the river is known too for the Battle of the Piave (1918), the decisive battle of World War I on the Italian Front.

The Rhone

Pierre Amadieu Côtes du Rhone (AOC) Grande Réserve 2011, 14%, €16.00 O’Donovan’s Off Licences

This well balanced wine, a blend of Grenache and Syrah, has a violet colour, the legs slow to clear. Blackberry and plum more than red berries feature on a somewhat muted nose, hints of clove too. It is smooth, concentrated and spicy, tannins are silky, acidity not too obvious, but it is well balanced overall, a powerful palate but not short on finesse and with a very pleasing finish.

The grapes are grown different soils, clay and limestone for the Grenache, pebbles and gravel for the Syrah. The fruit used is a “very careful selection”. Harvesting is manual and the wine is matured for six months in oak barrels. A good result! Very Highly Recommended.

The Dordogne

Feely La Source Vin de France 2011, 13%, €23.50 Mary Pawle Wines

Saussignac, like neighbouring Monbazillac, is perhaps best known as an area that produces sweet wines. And it is here that Sean and Carlo Feely produce organic wines that are not sweet! Their vineyard is certified organic and biodynamic. Hand-crafted from old vines, this wine is aged gently for 18 months in French oak barrels. It is handpicked, basket pressed, with indigenous yeasts; it is unfined and unfiltered.

Colour is a deep purple. Plum is prominent in the aromas. Quite a depth of flavour (including plum), nice bit of spice too, concentrated and well balanced and the finish is good too. This 2011 blend is Merlot (80%) and Cabernet and is Highly Recommended.

The Feely suggests an Irish (Wine-Geese) connection to this Bergerac vineyard and there is. Read about it here. By the way, if you are in the area, why not visit Chateau Feely; it is just 75 minutes from Bordeaux and 15 from Bergerac. If you can't make it to Saussignac, maybe you'd like a little share in the vineyard? Details here.

The Piave

Conte Loredan Gasparini Malbec Colli Trevigiani (IGT) 2015, 12.5%, €18.30 Karwig Wines

Colour here is a fairly intense violet and red fruits feature in the aromas. Rich flavours on the palate plus a good input of spice, excellent acidity too. Tannins are fine. Very smooth and approachable and then a good long finish. Very good indeed and Highly Recommended.

While this particular wine is labelled IGT, the winery has been cultivating Malbec for the past fifty years as part of their DOC Venegazzu. They say it is ideal as an aperitif (I can vouch for that!), with fried food and red meat.

Taste of the Week. West Cork 10 Year Old Single Malt Irish Whiskey

Taste of the Week

West Cork 10 Year Old Single Malt Irish Whiskey

Armed with a gift voucher, I made a quick visit to Dunnes Stores in Cork City recently. Had enough socks and shirt, so headed for the drinks section, looking for something around the thirty euro mark. After a couple of near things, I spotted a bottle of the West Cork 10 Year Old Single Malt, priced at exactly the thirty (a few euro off, I think). Have been enjoying the odd glass since and it’s now our Taste of the Week.

It is an excellent blend of grain and malt whiskey, a smooth and approachable whiskey with a light vanilla finish. This “non-chill filtered whiskey has been matured in first fill, flame charred Bourbon barrels to deliver an exquisite aroma, rich taste and pleasantly lasting finish”. Malty, toffee, treacle notes are to the fore here. And yes, they certainly deliver on the aroma, flavour and finish.

I must admit I've been drinking this on the rocks and that could get me into trouble with Frank McHardy (a very experienced Scottish consultant with West Cork Distillery in Skibbereen). I met Frank a few months back and he cautioned against using ice. “Add a little water - it opens up the whiskey flavours. If you think it is a little cold, heat it up with your hand.” Next time Frank, I’ll take your advice!

West Cork Distillers was born from humble beginnings. From the coming together of a food and drinks engineer and his two fisherman friends it now has become a global business selling in over 35 countries worldwide.  John O’ Connell, Denis McCarthy and Ger McCarthy are the three pioneers. They reckon their use of local spring water (“from 3 kms down the road”) is a key factor as this natural soft water leads to a smoother whiskey.

They have quite a range at this point and you can see all the latest here.
West Cork Distillers are taking part in next month's A Taste of West Cork Festival. Would you like to visit? See details here.

West Cork Distillers

Market Street,

Skibbereen,

Co. Cork,

Ireland

T: + 353 (0)28 22815

E-Mail : info@westcorkdistillers.com

www.westcorkdistillers.com