RESTAURANTS AND FOOD

Thursday, December 10, 2015

Wednesday, December 9, 2015

Mountain Cheese and Oregon Wine. Mont D’Or and Riesling. Divine.

Mountain Cheese and Oregon Wine

Mont D’Or and Riesling. Divine.

Yum!

One 500gram box of Mont D’Or (AOC) cheese from Bradley’s.

One bottle of Kings Ridge Oregon Riesling 2013 (Willamette Valley), 12%, €15.00 (reduced from 19.99) SuperValu Christmas Wines.

Sharing a half kilo of baked cheese is fun on a winter's evening as we found out this week. It is recommended for four but the two of us managed quite well, thank you!

Our cheese came from Bradley’s in North Main Street, Cork, and was the famous Mont D’Or from France (there is also a Swiss version). Like wine, the French version has its own AOC and is a much prized cheese from the Franche-Comté, made with whole cow’s milk, and is generally available only from October to March.

The rind (inedible) can be peeled back and the runny cheese simply spooned out. But baking it, in its box, is the treat. Again, it is not the only cheese that comes in a box. Camembert is another and that too can be baked. Sheridan’s suggest that both Durrus (360g) and Gubbeen (450g) can get the same treatment but they don't have a box so you’ll have to improvise with a sheet of foil.

Indeed, it was a recipe in the new book, Sheridan's Guide to Cheese, that we followed (more or less) with the Mont D’Or. You simple score the top rind, add in a couple of sprigs of thyme and a clove of garlic and a half glass of white wine and bake in a pre-heated oven for ten minutes. For some reason, the ten minutes was totally inadequate and ours needed double that.

It was carefully brought to the table, the rind peeled back and then we dug in with chunky bits of Arbutus Sourdough (bought at Davidson’s, the local butchers). And then we dug in again. And again… You get the picture! All the while sipping from the Oregon Riesling.

That gold coloured wine proved to be a gem and also quite a match for the cheese. White fruits on the nose and also that petrol but reasonably muted. Palate is crisp and fruity, fresh, light and fragrant, no sign of that petrol, good acidity and a decent dry finish. Some of the fruit used comes from one of the oldest vineyards, planted in 1968, and this “adds depth and complexity to our Riesling.” A Very Highly Recommended Riesling indeed.

So there you have it. Quite a treat. And wouldn’t all three, a box of cheese, a bottle of the Riesling and the Sheridan's book be quite a present for that special someone. They might even share!

Got a tip too from Daniel Emerson of Stonewell Cider. He suggested having the Mont D’Or as a fondue with potatoes. “It is divine.”

Tuesday, December 8, 2015

All Red For You. Garnacha-Syrah-Nebbiolo

All Red For You

Garnacha-Syrah-Nebbiolo

Ricossa Barola 2010 (DOCG), 14%, €17.00 (down from 22.99), SuperValu Christmas

In the Langhe hills it’s the aromas - of truffles, mushrooms, hazelnuts, coffee, and above all else, Barolo or Barbaresco wine - that sweep people off their feet. (Vino Italia).

Barolo, by the way, is a place in Piedmonte (Italy) and the grape is Nebbiolo. There is a minimum aging requirement of three years (two in barrel) and the result has been described as the king of wine, the wine of kings.

So let's be king for a day and try this vibrant ruby red. And yes there are gorgeous dark red fruit (cherries mainly) wafting up from the glass. The Riedel (Veritas 6449/67) has been made for New World Pinot Noir but it certainly works well here! The fruits are agreeably prominent on the palate but there is a great balance, some spicy elements too, a sweet and savoury experience and then the long dry finish. I really like this one, feeling rather royal! Very Highly Recommended.

Marco Real Corraliza de Los Roncaleses 2012, Santacara (Navarra DO), 15%, €15.50 Karwig Wines

Colour here is a bright cherry, long lasting legs. For me, nose is more fruit (cherry) than floral (which is highlighted on the label). Soft and full-bodied and elegant too, moderate acidity and yet, despite the high abv, the balance is fine; the finish is long and pleasant. Highly Recommended.

It is one hundred per cent Garnacha and wines made from this variety can be high in alcohol (as is the case here) and heady (not the case here!). By the way, I had this with Poulet Basquaise and it was an excellent match.

Think I may have been fairly close to this vineyard a few years ago when I came over the mountains from France to Roncesvalles, a major stop on the camino to Santiago. It was lunchtime and I was hoping to get the Pilgrim’s Meal but was told it was available only in the evening!

Finca Pasion Mi Fuego Syrah 2012 (Argentina), 13.5%, €13.50 Karwig Wines

Colour is a dark red (with a lighter rim) and it has ripe fruits aromas. Then you get the fruit again on the palate, spice too and quite fine tannins, a pleasant presence in the mouth plus persistent finish. Hand-harvested and estate bottled, this is easily quaffable and Highly Recommended.

Monday, December 7, 2015

Taste of the Week. Rebel Chilli

Taste of the Week

Rebel Chilli

Kick bleak mid-winter up the arse with ginger, green chilli and lemongrass.

Is your chicken looking a little sad? Your bland burger hiding between the covers? Your sandwich less than appealing?

The good news is Plain time is over. Cork’s Rebel Chilli have just the cure for your food time blues, summer or winter. Their Green Chilli, Lemongrass and Ginger Sauce will heat up anything you decide to use it on (cheese, fish, meats). It is just what you want, your mid-winter zest and our Taste of the Week.

Sunday, December 6, 2015

Around the World without a Duck! The Edible Atlas by Mina Holland

Around the World without a Duck!

The Edible Atlas by Mina Holland

Mina Holland doesn’t like duck! The author of the Edible Atlas worked her way through 39 of the world's main cuisines, including two regions of China, without cooking duck once! I had been checking the index for another reason but no sign of duck at all.

I did find out why though when we came to cook her A-not-quite-Cassoulet, from the Lyon area (Rhone-Alpes). This is so called because the normal duck is missing. “Expensive+greasy+cute=duck just isn't my favourite meat to cook with.”

I bought this book about a year ago and hadn't seen it since. A bit unusual, as we usually like to use the books we buy. But this was first up on a shelf and then got hidden by an increasing bunch of cook books.

But, duck or no, we are making up for lost time and so substituted pork for the duck. That was combined with all the other cassoulet regulars - cannellini beans, bacon lardons, lots of garlic, bay leave too - in the fantastic flavoursome stew. The author loves this kind of dish: “This is the food I remember over Michelin-starred meals. It is usually delicious, very often gruesome and always real.”

She recommended washing it down with a bottle of local Syrah or Syrah/Grenache blend.

but I’m following a different wine river currently. I picked mine from Rioja, where the Ebro runs through, and the El Coto de Imaz Reserva (Karwig Wines) was chosen and did the matching job superbly.

Mina, editor of Guardian Cook, covers four regions in France in the book. The others are Provence, Loire Valley and Normandy. And it was in Normandy that we found our dessert: Apple Tart Normande, a dish “in which fruit, pastry and frangipane get jiggy”. Hard to resist that.

And the different parts do jel so well together, the fruit, the shortcrust pastry and the frangipane with the almonds and a shot of Longueville House Apple Brandy (well, we had that instead of the Calvados). A whole tart is a bit much for two but it lasts well in the fridge.

So, after that year lost on the shelf, the Edible Atlas is off to a great start in this house. “Fascinating, telling some fantastic stories about a broad range of cuisines … The food cries to be cooked,” said Yotam Ottolenghi.

We are looking forward to “visiting” Europe (no less than five regions in Italy alone), The Middle East for sugar and spice and all things nice, Asia (from India to Japan), Africa and the Melting Pots of the Americas (Louisiana among them, of course). Could be quite an delicious journey, even without the duck!

Friday, December 4, 2015

Amuse Bouche

Boiling alive was less commonly used as a punishment, but it was nonetheless legalized in 1532 by Henry VIII to punish one criminal in particular. Richard Roose was a cook found guilty of poisoning the porridge of his boss, the Bishop of Rochester. He was judged to have committed treason and was boiled alive, roaring ‘mighty loud’, according to one chronicle. …. That English law was repealed in 1547.

from Heat by Ranulph Fiennes (2015)

Thursday, December 3, 2015

A Pair of Primitivo. And one top Riesling!

A Pair of Primitivo

And one top Riesling!

The Primitivo grape came from Croatia and has been grown in the Puglia area for 200 years or so. It is regarded as the brother or sister of Zinfandel in California. It is an early ripener as the Italian name indicates.

Puglia is in the heel of Italy, an area called Oenotria (land of vines) by the ancient Greeks. It is flat and hot and capable of producing high alcohol wines, though these two, both from the Salento area, aren't over the top at all.

Li Veli Orion Primitivo 2013, Salento IGP, 14%, €17.25 Karwig Wines.

The grapes are hand-picked (from 11 year old vines) and collected in small cases. There is further manual selection on rollers in the cellar. Malolactic fermentation is in French oak and there is also 6 months barrel aging. Perhaps this is why it is a little more expensive than the Per Tutti.

Dark red is the colour and it has red fruit aromas. It's fruity and fresh, with some spice, a fruity aftertaste and a very good finish. Really pleasant and Highly Recommended.

Per Tutti Primitivo 2013, Salento IGP, 13%, €15.50 Karwig Wines

Another dark ruby wine with pleasant aromas of warm red fruit. A lovely full sensation at the introduction on the palate, some little sweetness, some spice evident also, fine tannins too, quite smooth overall and a longish velvety finish. Really well-made wine with a low (for Primitivo) abv of 13%. Highly Recommended.

This Riesling is Class!

Carl Ehrhard Rudesheim Urstűck Berg Roseneck Riesling trocken 2013 (Rheingau, Germany), 12.5%, €24.90 Karwig Wines.

Colour is an attractive medium gold with intense aromas (white fruit, floral too). Then the beautiful full flavours, a very pleasant mouthfeel (including a wee tingle), good acidity and a long finish. Not too much to be said, no need really, just Very Highly Recommended.

Wednesday, December 2, 2015

Catch Your Fish at Fenn’s Quay

Hake (left), salmon, croquettes. Mackerel is hidden behind the salad.

If in Cork, go catch your fish at Fenn’s Quay.

Once upon a time, Fenn’s Quay was actually that, a quay. As was nearby Cornmarket Street, as was Patrick Street (check the bend of the river!). Indeed, once upon a time, maybe in the 1970s, there was a proposal by a local businessman to concrete over the south channel of the River Lee and make a road of it. Glad to say that outrageous proposal - it got a lot of newspaper space - never off the ground.

Cork city centre still remains an island. And fish is everywhere, white, slippery, in the markets and stunningly fresh and tasty in many of the local restaurants. Kate Lawlor’s Fenn’s Quay restaurant is where we found some excellent dishes during a midweek lunch.

The fish platter, a regular feature, was an enticing option (€15.00). It was a perfect assemblage, a well judged mix of textures, flavours and colours, quality and quantity giving an elegant sufficiency on the black slate. In plain words: Fish croquettes, cured salmon, beer-battered hake, and smoked mackerel paté. Add in a perfect salad and you have a happy customer, singing a shanty on the way out the door.

Fenn's Quay hadn't been too busy when I arrived - on the early side - but when I looked up after finishing that mega-platter - I noticed it was getting close to full. It is a popular spot, just off Patrick Street and conveniently close to the Courthouse area. No doubt briefs are studied (and discussed) here, after the menu is perused of course!

CL too had made an excellent catch: Baked Hake with roast cauliflower, leek, carrot and mash (choice of salad also), all for 16 euro. Hake has become an established favourite in local restaurants - just a decade ago it was seriously under-utilised here but a successful Bord Bia campaign, improved the siutuation. The piece in Fenn’s Quay was white, moist, impeccably cooked and deliciously delicate. Vegetables could have been a touch softer.

Now, before I go any further, I'd better make clear that Fenn’s Quay is not a fish restaurant. One of the highlights on the Specials Board was a Featherblade of Beef dish, another speciality here. Lots of choice, both at lunch and in the evening.

Soup

We had started with their French Onion Soup with Gubbeen Crouton (€4.50), a magical little bowl of the stuff. The soup and the Gubbeen were a match made in heaven but there was also a little dark magic added back in the kitchen, much more back-bone to this than you get in your regular French Onion soup. Highly recommended, especially on a winter’s day.

Indeed, day or night, winter or summer, fish or otherwise, Fenn’s Quay is very highly recommended indeed. But do watch out for those fish specials!

By the way, they will be open on the 13th and 20th of December (both Sundays), serving both brunch and early dinner.

No 5 Fenn’s Quay

Sheares Street, Cork

Opening hours: 8.00am to 10.00pm, MOn-Sat

Tel: +353 21 427 9527

Email: fennsquay@gmail.com

http://www.fennsquay.net

Tuesday, December 1, 2015

Christmas Wines at SuperValu

When you find yourself in a wine shop or the wine section of a supermarket, do you get somewhat confused with the huge choice available? I know I do. Here's a tip if you intend taking advantage of the current SuperValu Christmas Wine offer. Pick up a copy of their Uncorked, a free magazine available in store.

It has some terrific articles and information on the available wines. Not just wine. Kristin Jensen has a few pages explaining all about craft beer. Port is of course a type of wine and the Examiner's Leslie Williams guides you through this one. Lots of other informative articles too, all written in plain English and easy for wine beginners to understand.

And if someone in your life is more than a beginner or if you want to treat yourself, go to Page 11 where Ross Golden-Bannon highlights a superb gift, at less than half-price. This is a vertical vintage offer of Bordeaux's Chateau La Croizille St Emilion Grand Cru. The pack features the top six vintages of the past decade: 2005, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012. Price is €150, down from €354. Yes please!

Now that you have your information, maybe even a shortlist, let us head off to the shelves.

Chateau Camp De La Hire 2010 (Castillon, Cotes de Bordeaux), 13%, €12.00 (15.99).

Intense colour here; the fruity aromas are also quite intense. Medium to full bodied, with soft tannins, it is fresh and elegant, well balanced and pleasingly complex with long finalé. Highly Recommended.

The Castillon wines are produced by mainly small family farms (230 of them); this is not the Bordeaux of the big chateaux. But the same grapes are used, mainly Merlot in this case. Castillon, one of four Cotes de Bordeaux areas, is squeezed between the Dordogne River to the south, St Emilion (no less) to the immediate west and the Dordogne department to the east.

No weedkiller is used in the production of this particular wine and indeed the cultivation is traditional. They recommended pairing it with spicy noodles, dumplings and red meat stews. Maybe they have an Asian audience in mind but my match came from much nearer home.

I found it on the recipe section of the Bord Bia site: Pan Fried Duck Breasts with Red Wine and Orange Sauce. It is delicious and the sauce itself (with some of the wine included) was a star and indeed may lend itself to other dishes.

Union Wine’s Kings Ridge Pinot Gris 2013 (Oregon), 13%, €15.00 (19.99)

Pink skinned Pinot Gris, a mutation of Pinot Noir and a cousin of Chardonnay, is associated with Alsace and, as Pinot Grigio, with Italy. It is a “specialty in Oregon” according to the World Atlas of Wine and SuperValu have this excellent example from the Willamette Valley, known as Oregon’s home for cool climate vines.

This has a lovely gold colour, a ring of bubbles around the top (they don't last!). There are gorgeous white fruit aromas. The palate is almost creamy, with pleasing white fruit flavours (pear, citrus), excellent acidity and the finish is more or less perfect as well. A really well made wine and Highly Recommended.

By the way, Oregon's reputation for Pinot Noir and Riesling is high as well and SuperValu have these on offer also.

Terres Blanches Alchimie Sauvignon Blanc 2014 (Coteaux du Giennois AOC), 12.5%, €10.00 (14.99).

This little known little appellation (202 hectares) on the eastern edge of the Loire Valley northeast of Sancerre (4181 ha) produces almost equal amounts of light-bodied red and white wines. With extensions of Sancerre limestone geological formations into the area, you can expect good Sauvignon Blanc and this doesn't disappoint.

Light gold is the colour and the minerality on the nose is coupled with floral elements. The attack is bright with those citrus elements to the fore, minerality too of course, a crisp acidity, even a wee tingle. A very pleasant surprise indeed, Sancerre in style but not in price! Highly Recommended.

Also in the Christmas sale:

Maison Andre Goichot Meursault (AOC) 2014, 13%, €35.00 (44.99).

Colour is a greenish gold, limpid and brilliant, and here the fruit and acidity match up in an exceptional balance. Fresh and smooth, it has an excellent refined mouthfeel with a streak of minerality and a long finish that keeps giving. Highly Recommended.

Maison Andre Goichot Mercurey (AOC) 2013, 12.5%, €18.00 (22.99).

Colour is a light, and bright, red while the aromas give you a nice mix of raspberry, cherry, strawberry. Red fruit flavours, cherry prominent, on the palate, light as you'd expect, the lightness of a classic youthful Pinot Noir; acidity and tannins combine well as you go into the dry finish. Very Highly Recommended.

Goichot Pouilly-Fuissé “Les Feuilles d’Or” 2014, 13%, €18.00 (down from 22.99)

Colour is a medium gold and there are aromas of citrus and white fruits among quite a medley. In the mouth, it is smooth, close to creamy, richly fruited and soft with good acidity too plus a lingering finish. An elegant wine indeed and Very Highly Recommended.

Il Capolavoro Appassimento Rosso 2014, 14%, €10.00 (14.99)

This palate pleasing beauty is produced from grapes that have been partially dried (appassimento) and the result is a rich red colour and, more importantly, a greater concentration of fruit flavours. And that concentration means a very pleasant easy drinking wine with a little spice both on nose and palate. Add in a silky mouthfeel and you've got a winner. Very Highly Recommended.

Barone Montalto Ammasso 2013 Rosso Siciliane (IGT), 14.5%, €15.00 (€18.99)

The varieties blended in this gorgeous and complex wine are the locals Nero d’Avola and Nerello Mascalese and the internationals Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. A serious work of wine is the result and it is Very Highly Recommended.

Medium red is the colour and the aromas, of dark fruit, are pretty intense. There is a luscious concentrated fruit, hints of sweetness, spice too; overall, a rather plush wine, tannins just about in play, and the finish is long.

Price in brackets indicates the normal price per bottle.