Saturday, June 20, 2015

Amuse Bouche

Who needs Abramovich, Lennox sells a lot of chips…
Who needs Abramovich, Lennox sells a lot of chips...
(to the tune of ‘La Donna è Mobile’ from Verdi’s Rigoletto)

from Death of a Football Club by Neal Horgan.

Friday, June 19, 2015

The Brooklodge Hotel. Excellent Base for Wicklow.

The Brooklodge Hotel at Macreddin Village
Excellent Base for Wicklow Attractions
The saints of Ireland invariably seemed to end up in the most beautiful locations. St Kevin of Glendalough fame found another beauty spot not too far away in Macreddin, the present day location of the gorgeous Brooklodge Hotel.

Macreddin was important in the history of the area for a long time afterwards but then fell into decline, revived only by a band of brothers, the Doyles, who reimagined it and rebuilt the little village. Here, in the heart of the Wicklow countryside, they have everything you need to get away from it all in the 21st century.

Then again, there are not too many hermits nowadays and you may need a little company, maybe a lot of it!. So, you can have birthday party here. Or indeed a full scale wedding - they even have their own village church! Kevin may have come for the food, wild and organic, and that was why I visited a few weeks back. More precisely, I was there to try out their splendid Wild and Organic Tasting Menu.
That menu was served up in the Strawberry Tree, the premium restaurant in the village. But there is another one called the La Taverna Armento, which features a full Southern Italian menu. There is a bar in the hotel and another in the village. Oh, there’s lots more including a spa, conference  suites, an equestrian centre, a food store, and a golf club. Reckon if Kevin came back, he'd stay around for a long while. Might even buy his food at the very popular Macreddin monthly farmers market.

I was there for just the one night and was very impressed. Took a walk around - there are quite a series of rambles, some long, some short. Mine was just around the green, saying hello to the hens of course, glad of the organic message their presence indicates. And I was friendly towards them. After all, they were supplying the eggs for breakfast.

And that breakfast, served in a beautiful room (you may also have it in your bedroom), was indeed a delicious affair. No shortage of juices and also the Macreddin Village Smoothie. All the cereals, also fresh fruit, yogurts and my pick which was the Porridge with Honey and Cream.
The main event was Poached Eggs on Irish Potato Cake and I could also have had had their version of the full Irish, also pancakes with Highbank Apple Syrup or Grilled Wild Fish. No shortage of lovely breads, their own of course, and organic tea and coffee to wash it all down.

Our room was excellent, very well heated and that is another story. Comfort was top class and no shortage of space either. The bedroom was on a spacious glass-walled mezzanine with its own bath. The main TV was downstairs but there was also a mini-one above. Shower and toilets were downstairs.

Staff were excellent throughout, at reception, in the restaurant, in the bar, everywhere, and helped make it a stay to remember in a place to remember.

Thursday, June 18, 2015

Three Reds and a Rosé. Dadá is me daza!

Three Reds and a Rosé
Dadá is me daza!

Dadá is me Daza

Dadá De Finca Las Moras, Art Wine 1 2014 (Argentina), 13%, €10.99 O’Donovan’s Off Licence


This wine went down very well indeed at Our Table  in Cork last Sunday night when 400 white-clad dinners enjoyed a three course meal on the street!

On the nose, it is vanilla, no doubt. You’ll also find Art Wine 2 and 3 but this #1 has had contact with medium toast American oak, hence the vanilla. They say this is “an artistic wine inspired by Dadáism, a cultural movement that began in Zurich in 1916”.

Art inspired or not, the vanilla remains a major feature on the palate, spice there too and soft tannins. Hard to discern by taste just what grapes are involved. But look at the back label and you’ll see that Bonarda and Malbec are used. It is an opulent blend. The winemaker has had a major say here and I admit I’m a convert. Very Highly Recommended.

Masi Campofiorin 2009 Rosso del Veronese (IGT), 13%, €15.99 (now at 12.99), Bradley’s Off Licence


This deep ruby red has aromas of red fruit, mainly cherry. Serious and rich are the immediate impressions as it reaches the palate, good concentration and some spice too, well balanced with lengthy finalé. 

“Friendly at the table” the makers say and I couldn't disagree. On the label, in Latin, it says (Google translation, so beware), Nectar of Angels and Men. The angels have had their share, now time for mine. Highly Recommended.

It has been a success for Masi since 1964 and has won numerous awards. The blend is of three native grapes: Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. And the appassimento technique - the grapes are dried to obtain greater concentration of flavour and aroma - is used here.

The Masi Masianco white has been Very Highly Recommended in a previous post.



Velenosi Querciantica Lacrima di Morro d’Alba (DOC) 2013, Marche Italy, 12.5%, €17.10 Karwig Wines




Just one variety of grape in this bottle, the Lacrima di Morro d’Alba. Colour is a rather intense ruby and there are rich aromas of red berries, strawberries and raspberries, some cherry too and floral hints. Medium bodied and very smooth, it is fruity and juicy, easy drinking, with slight spice and just about noticeable tannins, all followed by an excellent finish. Very Highly Recommended.


Claude Val rosé 2014, Pays D’Oc (IGT), 13%, €12.25 Karwig Wines

Summer time, they say, is rosé time; never confined myself to just one unreliable season though! And certainly not with this excellent example from the Pezenas region of the Languedoc. It is a blend of three grapes: Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah.

Colour is pink, of course; quite an arresting blush actually. The red fruit aromas are also attractive and there are floral notes too. Fruit is generous and it is very pleasant on the palate, lingering on and on. Approachable, easy drinking and fantastic value could all be applied here and the producers would have no problem with that as it was indeed their aim! Highly Recommended.

Wednesday, June 17, 2015

Going Greek With Glenisk!

Going Greek With Glenisk!
No Hardship
Preparing breakfast,
with yogurt, fruit and oat flakes (recipe below).

Ever since coming across thick creamy yogurts in France during summer holidays many moons ago, I have always liked them. So I was very happy to see that Glenisk are now doing them and happier again to get some samples.

And I have indeed been enjoying the new Strained Greek Yogurts. It looks like as if they have benefits for fitness fans and for anyone watching their weight. Check the details here.   

What are Greek yogurts? Well here’s one explanation: It's yogurt with much of the watery whey removed to make it thicker. In other words, Greek yogurt. But you can only call it that if it is properly Greek, as the recent legal battle confirmed. In January the British Court of Appeal ruled that Greek yogurt must be made in Greece; otherwise it's merely "strained". Read more of this UK Telegraph article here.


Glenisk Authentically Strained Greek Style Yogurts come in many flavours and  the new range is surprisingly thick and creamy for a fat free yogurt. A 150g serving contains about 100 calories, so you can enjoy a great taste minus the guilt!

Already I have a few favourites, especially that delicious strawberry. I have also used one to add to oat flakes and fruits overnight for breakfast and another has been used by the official blog cook as an ingredient in her absolutely delicious Banana Bread. (brownie points+++++!)

But what else can you do with them? Well Glenisk have thought of that too and supplied a range of recipes (below). I must try that Smoked Salmon one. Take your pick. Going Greek, or should I say going Greek style, with Glenisk is no hardship.
Pancakes (left) and Smoked Salmon Yogurt Cup
Simple Protein pancakes topped with Greek Yogurt & Fresh Fruit
Ingredients
2 Eggs
1 Banana (ripe)


Method
Mash ripe banana well, add in whisked eggs and mix together.
Warm a non-stick or cast iron pan to medium, add oil and add mixture to pan.
Let the cake set for thirty seconds (or when the centre bubbles) and flip it!
Top with Glenisk Natural 0% Greek Protein Yogurt and fresh berries!


Glenisk Smoked Irish Salmon Yogurt Cup
Ingredients
4 tbsp Glenisk Natural 0% Greek Protein Yogurt
1 tbsp Burren Smokehouse smoked salmon, chopped
5 capers
Sprinkle of chopped fresh dill
Zest of ¼ lemon
Squeeze of fresh lemon juice
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil


Method
Start off with the Natural Yogurt as the base of the dish.
Chop the Smoked Salmon sprinkle over the top & add a squeeze of lemon juice
Add the Capers & some fresh Dill
Season with the lemon zest, some salt & black pepper and a glug of olive oil (optional)
Serve with bagel chips


Overnight Oats (1 serving)
Ingredients
35g Steel cut porridge Oats
200g Glenisk Natural 0% Greek Protein Yogurt
Mixed Blueberries, Strawberries & Raspberries
Optional: Chia Seeds, Cacao Nibs, Honey


Method
Layer the porridge, yogurt and fruit in a jar or bowl.
Cover and put in the refrigerator overnight so the porridge absorbs all the yogurt.
In the morning stir so all the layers are mixed together and top with more fruit and anything else you might like to add.


Energy Boosting Smoothie (2 servings)
Ingredients
2 tbsp cocoa powder
2 tbsp peanut butter
1 banana (peeled and chopped)
230g Glenisk Natural 0% Greek Protein Yogurt
Cinnamon to Taste


Method
Pour peanut butter, cocoa powder, Glenisk Organic Yogurt and ice cubes into blender and mix at high speed.
Slice banana, add into mixture, and re-blend.
Pour smoothie into two cups and serve.
Sprinkle dash of cinnamon on top for extra flavour


Sweet Potato Fries with Cool Yogurt Ranch Dip
For the Fries
2 medium/large sweet potatoes
1 tablespoon cornstarch
big sprinkle of cayenne (about 1/8 teaspoon)
big sprinkle of cumin (about 1/8 teaspoon)
2 tablespoons oil
Salt & Pepper to season


For the Dip
150g Glenisk Natural 0% Greek Protein Yogurt
2 tsp White Wine Vinegar
2 Garlic Cloves – minced
2 tbsp finely chopped onion
Salt & Pepper to Season


Method
Preheat the oven to 200 C/ Gas Mark Seven
Using a sharp knife, cut the potatoes into chip like pieces (keep them relatively the same thickness as this will help them cook evenly)
Soak the fries for 10-15 mins
Place the Cayenne, Cumin & Cornstarch into a bowl and toss the (patted dry) fries in the mix to coat them. Transfer them to a non-stick baking tray and cook for 40 minutes (turning half way through)

While the fries are cooking, make your dip. In a small bowl, stir together all the ingredients. Taste and add salt and pepper as desired.

Tuesday, June 16, 2015

Taste of the Week. Medjool Dates from Mr Bells

Taste of the Week
Medjool Dates
The dates; coffee scoop gives an idea of size.

Just spotted these a few days ago on the Twitter feed of Mr Bells in the English Market. Made a beeline for the stall to get my hands on these big richly delicious dates, widely regarded as the very best. 

There are many sweet ways to eat these. Came across a striking one in Jacques a few months back when dessert was Medjool Date stuffed with Ardsallagh goats cheese, with Almonds and a full circle of Blood Orange. A gorgeous combination.

Didn't have any Ardsallagh handy when I came back from the market but did have a bottle of Sauternes on hand (Lamourette 2005) and a glass of that proved a perfect match for the luscious dates, our Taste of the Week.

Monday, June 15, 2015

Top Posts for last two years

Top Posts for last two years

Pantry's Fish Kitchen -
new to top list!


All White on the Night. Dining Out in Cork City

All White on the Night.

Dining Out in Cork City.
“Bet you never thought you’d be sitting down to a three course meal on the street outside Penny’s and Guiney's,” said one diner as we gathered for Our Table in Oliver Plunkett Street (Cork) last evening. The four hundred of us, dressed in white (mostly!), were dined, wined and entertained for the two hours. The verdict: bring on 2016. Indeed, even before the night, indications were that double the number would be catered for next year.
Starter by House
So lots of craic, good fun and good food too. The long table was divided into four and we were at the B section. Each section had three restaurants looking after its needs and our trio were House, Isaacs and ORSO.

As we arrived we were treated to a refreshing flower-topped juice and guided to our table (and, yes, it was outside Penny’s and Guiney's). Soon we were meeting new and old friends and a glass of wine, sponsored by O'Donovan’s, went down well.
The event was sponsored by BAM Ireland and JCD and there were special thanks to Cork City Council, Cork City Forum, Elbow Lane Brewery, Stonewell Cider, One water, Down to Earth Materials, The Oliver Plunkett, O’Donovan’s Off Licence, The Pavilion Garden Centre, Cork Midsummer Festival. And a big round of applause too for the restaurants (management and staff) involved.
Mains by Isaac's. More on the side!
After the introductory drink and a nibble on the gorgeous Arbutus Bread (with butter), it didn't take long at all and the 400 were settling into the House starter: Carpaccio of baby radish, gold and red beets with tahini grapefruit and pistachio. Loved that mix of flavours, textures, not forgetting colours. A very promising start indeed.

Lamb was the main course at all the tables and Isaac’s came up with Slow roast shoulder of lamb with summer greens, spiced aubergines, and Ballycotton new potatoes. The best of ingredients plus the top class cooking forever associated with the MacCurtain Street venue made for a lot of happy diners at Table B!

The first two courses were excellent and the high standard was maintained right to the sweet end with the appearance of the ORSO dessert: Pecan and local honey baklava with gooseberry and elderflower compote, and Toonsbridge ricotta cream. A delightful dessert indeed, made even more so by the tang of the compote.

All that had to be done then was finish off the wine and head up the street to see how the others were doing. Met diners and restaurateurs alike and it was a case of thumbs up in all cases. Happy out!

The event was part of the Cork Midsummer Festival which continues for another week. See the programme for the coming week here.
Dessert by ORSO

Saturday, June 13, 2015

Amuse Bouche

In this way...wheat farmers..are doing their part to poison the environment. Many farmers deliver an extra shot of synthetic nitrogen just before harvest to pump up the protein percentage. “They’re overfertilizing sixty million acres,” Steve said. “And for what? So the industry can bake more loaves per hour, and so they can charge you more to ‘enrich’ and ‘fortify’ it - which just means they can add tons of shit into the bread and it won't collapse.”

from The Third Plate by Dan Barber.

Friday, June 12, 2015

The Brooklyn Brewery. Brews some of New York’s best!

The Brooklyn Brewery. 
Brews some of New York’s best!
Garrett Oliver, brew-master at Brooklyn
Many visitors remark that we in Ireland are fortunate with regard to wine. Drawing from every major wine producing area in the world, we have a great choice on our shelves.


It is, of course, much the same with beer. And that choice is rapidly expanding now that we are in the middle of an invigorating wave of new Irish craft-brewers.  Our own beers are proudly taking up much of the shelf space.


Indeed, the choice of Irish brewed is growing by the week. And much of that is down to brewers who have come from all corners of the world: Kiwis, Germans, British, and Americans are found in the ranks of our brew-masters and, of course, our native brewers (many have returned from abroad) and have soaked up influences from all the above mentioned plus drawing from the likes of Belgium and middle Europe.

The Brooklyn Brewery, founded in 1988 and one of New York’s best, has proved itself a resilient leader in the craft brew movement on the East Coast of America (and beyond) and its brewmaster Garrett Oliver (who joined Brooklyn in 1994)  has many admirers here.
A Beer is Never Alone in Bradley's

His conversion to real beer began with a flavoursome pint of English Ale, he told his audience at the recent Ballymaloe LitFest. And, like many converts, he is now a fervent (but mainly humorous) preacher of the craft-beer gospel.

Most of the beers he showed at Ballymaloe were in large bottles with corks. “This is a beer bottle,” he said. “Not a champagne bottle!” Tongue in cheek, maybe not, he insisted that wine was being sold in a beer bottle.

This is nice, doesn't taste like beer. Garrett said he has often heard people make this remark when they taste a craft beer. He had an explanation: “The beer they grew up with didn't taste like real beer!”

Brooklyn doesn't do only big bottles. The brewery also sells its beers in much more affordable small bottles and I saw quite a few of both sizes on the always well stocked shelves of Bradley’s Off Licence on a recent visit. By the way, the American small bottle is 355ml, slightly bigger than our 330ml.

The Sorachi Ace comes in a small bottle (€3.75) and is based upon a Belgian Saison and that “dill like aroma is unusual”. “It is a super dry beer, slightly hazy and you may find yeast at the bottom. It is very nice with oysters, crabs and other shellfish.” Michael Creedon at Bradley’s is amazed with this one, especially the way it matches with fish and seafood.


I treated myself to a bottle of their 10% Black Chocolate Stout, again in the small size. This is an October to March beer so I was out of season with my tasting. I was thinking of Caroline Hennessy’s Chocolate Brownies as I supped it and indeed their recommendations for this American Imperial Stout are along the same lines.


It achieves its dark chocolate aroma and flavor through the artful blending of six malts and months of aging. Properly kept, it will improve in the bottle for many years. This stout is the toast of the winter season in many countries, and there is nothing better to enjoy with chocolate desserts, cheesecake, ice cream, fine cheeses and roaring fireplaces.

Other small bottles available include an Indian Pale Ale called East IPA (3.29) , a Hoppy Session Saison called ½ Ale (2.69), an American Amber Lager (2.69) and the Double IPA named Blast. Some of these beers are quite strong, though the ½ Ale is just 3.4 per cent.

Among the big bottles in Bradley’s were two that Garrett showed in Ballymaloe. These are 750ml bottles, finished with cork, and will cost you. The highly rated Hand & Seal, for instance, is just under twenty five euro. It is rather special though, a Barleywine style ale that has been aged in Bourbon casks, and ideal with patés, game meats, sausages, rich desserts and cheeses.

The other big one I noted in Bradley’s was the K is for Kriek, Brooklyn’s own take on the Belgian style, although Garrett did remark that no Belgian would recognise it as a Kriek. Again it has been aged in Bourbon barrels with tart dried whole Montmorency cherries from Michigan.

You may check out more of what Garrett said about these and his other big bottles in Ballymaloe here.  Indeed, to get even more detail, check out the brewery’s website. It is quite a read!