The West’s Awake. Find it Fresh in Bradley’s

The  West’s Awake.

Find it Fresh in Bradley’s

Opening day in Bradley's

Fresh from West Cork is back in town and you’ll find it installed in Bradley’s, North Main Street. Walter, familiar to many of you from his stint last year in the English Market, fronts the operation and is as enthusiastic as ever.

And why wouldn't he be? He has some great produce in Bradley's; all the familiar names are there including Irish Atlantic Sea Salt, Rosscarbery Recipes, Gubbeen, Ummera, Glenilen, Sally Barnes (he especially recommends her smoked mackerel, “a big seller”), West Cork Pies, Culture Foods (the Sauerkraut people, who are now exporting) and more.

June Kingston’s Soda Wheaten loaf is a best seller and there are tasty apple tarts from the Walshes of Caheragh (near Drimoleague). And don't forget the Loughbeg Tea Brack and be sure to get some Glenilen clotted cream to go with that! Then you have yogurts and Lemon Labneh from McCarthy’s Dairy not to mention the many fish products from Union Hall including Smoked Mackerel Paté and Smoked Salmon Paté.

No shortage of honey and jam. The honey comes from Noel and Patricia Love of Knockeen (Skibbereen) while jams are supplied by Kathleen McCarthy of Drimoleague and Eithne McCarthy from Skibbereen. And watch out too for the Loughbeg chutneys, quite a few but the star is the Yellow Zucchini Relish which was adored by a bunch of “nine Michelin chefs from London when they sampled it at the English Market last year”.

And the good news is that you can get these six days a week, from 8.00am to 9.30pm! And more good news. If you like your vegetables fresh (and who doesn't?), Colm O’Regan of Horizon Farms will be making three deliveries a week to North Main Street.

And from next Friday, you'll be able to get raw pressed juice here: carrot, beetroot and a vegetable and fruit blend! “And the week after that, we'll have mini-meals,” he said. I looked puzzled! “Especially for toddlers,” he clarified. So there you are. Walter and Fresh from West Cork will feed you all, big and small.

Carignan, Mourvèdre and Bourboulenc. Not Just Good Blenders!

Carignan, Mourvèdre and Bourboulenc.

Not Just Good Blenders!

Carignan, Mourvèdre and Bourboulenc are not normally let out on their own, not in Ireland.

The three grapes are best known for their role in blends, in the Rhone, Provence and Languedoc. Mourvèdre is probably the most familiar in Ireland as it is the “M” in the GSM wines of the Rhone where G is Grenache and S stands for Syrah. All three come from the Languedoc/Roussillon area; if you’re a rugby fan, think Narbonne, Perpignan and south to the Pyrenees.

The SuperValu French Wine sale that starts tomorrow (Feb 12th) gives us the chance to see the three on a solo run and, at ten euro or less per bottle, it is an opportunity worth taking for those looking to see what else is out there aside from the more common Chardonnay and Merlot.

An old vineyard tractor pictured near Narbonne a few years ago.

Domaine De Simonet Bourboulenc 2013, 13.5%, €10.00 SuperValu from Feb 12th.

Bourboulenc is an ancient white grape and, according to the Hugh Johnson Handbook, “makes some of the Midi’s best wines”.

This one, from the Midi, has refreshing white fruit flavours, pear rather than apple, citrus also included and a slight smokiness (a characteristic of the grape, I’ve read); there is a vibrant mouthfeel and a decent finish as well. Nice acidity here too and I think it might go well with a half dozen oysters! Highly Recommended.

Claude Vialade Carignan Vieilles Vignes 2013, Cotes Catalanes IGP, 13.5%, €10.00 SuperValu from Feb 12th.

Colour here is dark red and there are dark fruit aromas. On the palate it is fruity and vibrant, not unlike the Mourvèdre but with a slightly heavier body and slightly stronger flavours. It has an excellent finish. It is recommended for meats and cheese. I tried it with a creamy Durrus Og and they do get on! While rarely seen here on its own, Carignan is widely grown in the South of France and elsewhere around the world, including Chile where it has a long history. Highly Recommended.

Domaine De La Condamine l'Eveque Mourvèdre Cotes de Thongue IGB 2012 - €9.00 SuperValu from Feb 12th

A dark red wine with dark fruit aromas. Stewed dark fruit flavours, quite intense, some spice also; very pleasant overall and a half decent finish as well. Lovely rich warm wine and great value. They say this, with its screw cap closure, is suitable for early drinking, so don't be holding on to it! Highly recommended.

Midleton Distillery Tour. Happy Angels Hover Over 1.2m Casks

Midleton Distillery Tour

Happy Angels Hover Over 1.2m Casks

In Warehouse 39B

“This is the biggest Pot Still in the world,” said David McCabe, our guide on a tour of Midleton Distillery. The copper giant that he showed us in the old distillery has a capacity 143,872 litres and is no longer in use. Copper has some key properties that make it highly suitable for the task: it is easy to shape, has good conductivity and removes impurities.

In the new distillery, Midleton has the biggest operating stills in the world. And the three copper giants that we saw are due to be joined by another three later in the year. It is amazing to see these three in action, their contribution coming after the milling, the mashing and the fermenting.

And when they have their work done, the triple distillation (most Scotch whisky is distilled twice), the infant whiskey is piped out to holding tanks before being moved again to mature in casks, 1.2 million of them at last count! The giant warehouses make quite a “town”. For more details on how whiskey is made, and we are talking Irish here, the one with the “e”, see here.

The old distillery

Then anothering mind-boggling figure as we sipped from 24 year old and 17 year old whiskeys in one of the warehouses. The evaporation of the alcohol into the air, known in many cultures as the “angels share”,  amounts to some 24,500 bottles of Jameson per annum! Happy angels but there's some harmless pollution, a dark dust that settles on the warehouses. I have also seen it at the Remy Martin distillery in Cognac; hard to miss it there, as the buildings are white.

The difference between our tastings was not just the age factor. The 24 year old had been matured in bourbon casks while the 17 year was from a sherry cask so there was a colour and flavour difference as well.

The colour difference is easily seen at the Irish Distillers Pernod Ricard Whiskey Academy, the pride and joy of David, our Whiskey Ambassador. It is based in a restored building in the old distillery. Back to figures briefly. The old distillery take up about 12 acres while the new one is ten times larger.

The Academy class-room is state of the art, though David also uses the old chalk from time to time too to illustrate a point. Pupils are taken through the process, step by step, and get the opportunity to blend their own whiskey which they can take home with them.

But the theory lessons are short and you won't be bogged down with detail. In between, you are taken out and about on the site to see the practical side of the whisky making business. Check out those Pot Stills. Hands on. See and taste. Lots to see. You’ll notice the Americans and Spaniards put their bungs on the side of the cask, the Irish on the top because the casks are stored in an upright position here.

Since opening its doors in February 2013, the Irish Whiskey Academy has become the dedicated whiskey institute of Irish Distillers Pernod Ricard, hosting courses that focus on the production and heritage of Irish whiskey produced at Midleton. It started off to train the distillery sales force but now there are courses to suit everyone and many students come from abroad. Check it out here  and give yourself a present!

Guess which came from the sherry cask!

One type of whiskey, the Single Pot Still, is the real Irish. This spirit almost died a death, for many reasons, but is now on the up and up.  Check the story of this premium product out here where you’ll read that Jameson is not a Single Pot Still but Redbreast is. 

If you join the Stillhouse (no fee), you’ll get special offers from time to time. I just ordered one bottle of a limited edition of Mano a Lámh, a Redbreast made in special sherry casks. But you’d better act quickly as I believe there are not very many left! Must say though, aside from the odd offer, there is a wealth of information on the site and it is well worth a look.

After that, why not take a trip to Midleton to take the distillery tour. Details here.

Cheers. David and Yours Truly,
after breaking in to the 24 year old!
Evidence is evident!

Amuse Bouche

Foccacha is much the same as Italian focaccia, a bit like a croque-monsieur, a toasted ham and cheese sandwich, only made with pizza dough. Inside you put whatever you feel like. And you serve it hot. This evening it was raw ham and mozzarella. Just like every day over the three years since Toinou had died, she’d got a meal together for me. She had just turned seventy and she liked cooking. But she needed a man to cook for. I was her man. And I loved it. I got into the boat, with the foccacha and a bottle of white Cassis - a ‘91 Clos Boudard - beside me.

from One Helluva Mess by Jean-Claude Izzo

Greene’s Supper Club Launch. No Stone Unturned!

Greene’s Supper Club Launch

No Stone Unturned!

Chef Bryan and one of his recent dishes

Bryan McCarthy, Head Chef at Greene’s, is eagerly looking forward to the launch of the McCurtain Street restaurant’s Supper Club series next Thursday evening. And his menu (below) has me and and others anticipating the event where the wines will be supplied by Tindal’s.

Arthur Little, General Manager of Greene's and Hotel Isaac: “The concept behind Greene’s Supper Club is to introduce our members to some of the new trends in food today, be it foraging or using ocean vegetables; different cuts of meat or even going back to the ‘Ark of Food’ and introducing traditional favourites.   We will bring experts in a variety of food related areas to meet, discuss and enjoy what Greene’s has to offer”.

The guest of honour on Thursday will be the master winemaker Ed Adams from La Båscula wines in Rioja, an Englishman who is working closely with the winemaker. They have vineyards in both the north and south of Spain so you can expect a variety of exciting wines and indeed some exciting names such as Catalan Eagle, Heights of the Charge Rueda, Turret Fields Monastrell/ Syrah and No Stone Unturned with the beef. And the something sweet with the pud will be Casta Diva muscatel.

To book, please call 021 455 2279

For bookings by email please send your enquiry to greenes@isaacs.ie

Concentration from  master winemaker Ed Adams

Wine Tasting Dinner

€59.00

Prosecco or Cava on arrival

Amuse Bouche

Liquid Nitrogen Tomato, Black Olive, Parmesan Cheese

❧❧❧

Local Rare Breed Pork, Black Pudding & Seared Scallop

Apple, Cider, Crackling Popcorn, Celeriac Slaw

❧❧❧

Champagne Sorbet, Lychee Foam, Lemon Gin, Meringue

❧❧❧

Duo of Beef Short Rib & Fillet Steak (C)  

Paris Brown Mushroom, Waterfall farm Spinach, Celeriac Puree, Fondant Potato, 60/60 Hens Egg

❧❧❧

Chocolate Praline Crème Tart  

Hazelnut, Praline Ice Cream, Chocolate Textures

(Made with Alto El Sol & Ivorian Inaya Single Estate Cocoa Barrie Chocolate)

❧❧❧

Tea or Coffee

Cheese Plate & Port

O’Mahony Butchers Can Do It. Have Been Doing It Since 1898.

O’Mahony Butchers Can Do It.

Have Been Doing It Since 1898.

“I can't do that” are not words you’ll hear from Cork butcher Eoin O’Mahony, who has just opened a grand new stall (above), right next door to the older family unit Edward O’Mahony. Over the last few years, Eoin has had requests for different cuts, new to the market. He didn't just shrug his shoulders and tell a potential customer “we don't do that” or “we can’t do that”. No. He has a chat, finds out all about it and then comes up with the goods.

And that can-do attitude led directly to the new stall. That, along with the retiral of the O'Mahony’s neighbour. “The existing stall was busy, very busy. We didn't have enough space, the range had gotten so big, our own sausages and burgers were flying.” So he took the opportunity. And on the displays of the new stall you'll see veal, venison, buffalo, and, this week, they’ll be joined by poultry.

The story all started back in the 90s, the 1890s that is, when Eoin’s great grand-father Michael Bresnan left County Limerick to be apprenticed to a Cork butcher in the market. By 1898, he had his own stall. It is still there today (with Eoin’s uncle, also Michael, at the helm), making the Bresnan family the longest continuously trading in the English Market.

Not every one wants a full leg of lamb nowadays;
just ask them to cut it into fillets (top left).
Bottom: Bavettes (left)and Buffalo steaks.

The Bresnan's bought a farm in Ballinlough, where Lovett’s restaurant eventually set up. As the city had grown around them, they moved to a new farm and abattoir in Carrigaline in 1978 and this is where the Ballea Lamb and beef comes from. Meanwhile, a small stall at the Grand Parade end became vacant and was bought by Eoin’s mother (still working there today) and that's the one with Edward O’Mahony on the sign, right next door to the new one.

Eoin says they have lots of French cuts on the new stall. “We pride ourselves on being able to produce any cut. An enquiry from an Argentinian led to the Tira di asado ribs. And I picked up a  few good ideas on a recent trip to Montreal, so watch out for new stuff in the near future!”

Spiced Buffalo came in before Christmas and was a big hit and there were also great reports back on their recent marinated hanger steak. New cuts or not, it will still all be based on the best of local produce, the lamb and beef from Ballea, veal from Macroom, buffalo (they have the full range) from Toonsbridge.

Aged steak and, insert, Tira di asado ribs

We asked Eoin if the success of any particular product had surprised him. “Well, yes, the hanger steak and the bavette and the buffalo of course. Our customers, and we do have a broad range of customers, have taken to them in a big way.” His own favourite is aged sirloin steak. The bavette, by the way, “when shredded, makes a great stir-fry”.

This weather, the most popular are the Short Ribs, Beef Cheek, Feather-Blade, and the Osso Bucco and, in the summer, customers choose from a huge range of sausages and burgers. And it is not just customers at the market that O'Mahony's are popular with. They supply many of the restaurants, big and small, around the city. For instance you’ll see the Feather Blade on the menu at Fenn’s Quay and that too helps make the cuts better known.

Eoin is looking forward to 2015 with renewed confidence. Like many market traders, that confidence has been boosted by a very busy Christmas, “one of the busiest in a few years” according to Eoin. So keep an eye on that new stall, especially from this week on, when the O’Mahony’s will be selling poultry, including “proper” chicken and duck. And not just any duck. These will be the old fashioned, “more meaty” Aylesbury bird. Happy New Year!

To see the latest from Eoin and family, follow his Twitter posts here.

The original stall, still going strong.

Zamora. Belts and Braces. And Bubbles Bros Wines.

Zamora. Belts and Braces.

And Bottles from Bubbles Bros.

Duck, confit (left) and salad.

Zamora is a bright new restaurant on Academy Street (Cork) just a few yards from Patrick Street. You may have breakfast, lunch and dinner here and coffee and cake in between.

We called in for an early dinner on Tuesday and the place was almost full by seven o’clock. The first  thing I noticed was the braces (and belts) on the servers. It is an all male front of house here or at least it was both times I visited.

The second thing that strikes you is the floor to ceiling shelves of wine, all from Bubble Brothers. This is a wine shop as well as a cafe. As it turns out, we settled for the selection available by the glass, quite extensive, and were very happy with Majoli Valpolicella (€5.80) and a Gadenne Montagne St Emilion (5.20).

Happy too with the meal and the friendly service. There are about nine starters listed, plus the one on the board. Everything from a small dish of marinated olives (€3.00) to the top of the range Prawns in a Cajun Cream with Sourdough Toast (9.50). I had the Prawns and was delighted with them and CL was equally satisfied with her Pork, Spinach and Herb Terrine that came with cucumber pickle and a tasty chutney (7.00).

There is a good selection of mains here too. Just remember you won't be getting big plates piled high with mashed potato and there won't be side plates of veg and chips and so on. If you want a “good feed”, this is not the place. But if you want to be fed well, then try it out.

Desserts (left); starters.

CL went for one of the regular dishes: Duck Leg confit on Lentil salad with pomegranate molasses and walnuts (13.95). Lots of lentils but the duck, so well cooked, was delicious. I picked the special from the board; Duck breast salad with ricotta cheese, pancetta, poached egg and mixed leaf salad (11.95). This was really well put together, an very agreeable mix of flavours and textures, the ricotta and pancetta also contributing to quite a substantial salad indeed.

We listened carefully as the desserts were called out to us - always prefer to have them written. But it worked out very well. I had a great Valencian Orange Cake, smothered in yogurt, while the Apple and Blackberry Crumble went down very well at the other side of the table, CL mightily impressed with the unusual crumble (something of  a scone texture about it but they weren't giving away any kitchen secrets!). Desserts were €4.95 each.

 

So there you have it. Good food and a good location. And the wine’s not bad either. And maybe the start of a braces revival!

Zamora

11/12 ACADEMY ST, CORK

021 239 0540

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/corkzamora

Twitter: https://twitter.com/zamoracork  

Web: http://zamora.ie

Languedoc Strongholds: Corbieres, Minervois, St Chinian

Languedoc Strongholds: Corbieres, Minervois, St Chinian.

Top Notch Reds. And White!


“Down here, they speak the language differently”, I had mentioned to my companion as we came down from Peyrepertuse (left), a high Cathar fort in the Languedoc, south of Carcassonne. Workmen stopped to allow the string of tourists reach the car park. The digger-driver was instantly on his mobile and soon he illustrated my language point as one “Whay” after another boomed out. No gentle “Oui” for him!

They make wine differently too in the rocky hills of the western Languedoc. And they make it very well indeed.

Le Moulin des Nonnes, Cuvée Inés blanc 2012, Minervois, 13.5%, €12.00 in SuperValu French Wine sale from 12th Feb.

This Vin Biologique, produced by the Andrieu brothers, is a blend of Roussanne (50%), Grenache Blanc (40) and Muscat petit grains (10) and is Very Highly Recommended. Colour is a bright gold and it has beautiful floral notes. Nice fruity notes on the palate too, some gorgeous spice too. This elegant organic white, with its fruit and finesse, surprised me. Apparently, less than ten per cent of Minervois wine is blanc. Perhaps we should encourage them to make more! “Whay, whay, si vous plais!”

Les Secrets Saint Chinian rouge 2012, 13.5%, €10.00 in SuperValu French Wine sale.

This red, a brilliant blend of Grenache and Syrah, is Very Highly Recommended. There is a superb introduction on the palate, excellent fruit, spice galore, but nothing extreme, all well balanced. Quite an elegant medium-bodied performer with a silky smooth lingering finish.

St Laurent Corbieres rouge 2012, 14%, €10.00 in SuperValu French Wine sale.

The palate on our second red is slightly more reserved and none the worse for that, fruit and spice again in evidence but slightly more rounded. The Corbieres, bottled by the same co-op in Saint Chinian, is more full bodied, possibly a bit better as a food wine. Grilled meats and cheese are recommended. Indeed, I think the Corbieres is marginally the better wine but I have a small preference for the Saint Chinian. Both though are Very Highly Recommended.

*   French wines are extremely popular in SuperValu and all three above are part of their French sale that begins on February 12th. These three would be a good start and I also note that the Minervois blanc is part of a trio that may be had for €25.00, the others being Coteaux de Giennois (Loire Sauvignon blanc) and Domaine Cristia Grenache. There is more from the Languedoc and big name areas, such as Bordeaux and the Rhone, are also well represented.

An Excellent Ehrhard Riesling. .. from the source..

An Excellent Ehrhard Riesling

from the source

Carl Ehrhard Rheingau 2010 Rudesheimer Riesling Kabinett, 11%, €17.80, Karwig Wines

The Rheingau is the spiritual heart of German wine, the birthplace of Riesling, according to the World Atlas of Wine. This bottle from the source is excellent and Very Highly Recommended.

The colour is a light honey and you’ll see quite a few tiny bubbles clinging to the glass. And yes there is a wee whiff of petrol in the aromas. On the palate, it is lively, full of fruit flavour, even a hint of sweetness too but it is tart as there is a crab apple acidity at play, all making for a lovely finish. Well worth a try.

Kelly’s Patch Chardonnay 2013, Australia, 13.5%, €11.05 Karwig Wines

This crisp Chardonnay, all the way from Victoria, is highly recommended. Colour is light gold, with green tints, and it has white fruit aromas. Crisp and fruity (melon, peach, and citrus), it has moderate acidity and not a bad finish at all. The year was a good one and this well made wine is Highly Recommended.

The story here is that Kelly’s Patch is named after the Kelly family whose homestead stood here long before the vines. The notorious Ned Kelly was born here and his iron mask features on the bottle. His father was a Kelly, deported from Tipperary in 1841. His mother came from Antrim, so it is rather appropriate that the wine is now imported via Magherafelt.

Winzer Krems, Grüner Veltliner Kremser Goldberg Kellermeister Privat, Kremstal DAC.

This is another superb white wine from Karwigs, that I tasted with the two above. Did a review of it late last year and you may see that here.

Les Gourmandises. Vive la différence.

Les Gourmandises

That Bit Different.

Guinea fowl

If you choose Les Gourmandises  in Cook Street, Cork, then you choose something different. Sure the produce is local but you rarely get Guinea-fowl on a local menu. Poached clementines on the dessert list? Service, cooking and presentation is top notch, always that touch of class. Vive la différence.

As you gather, I like the place. I’d like it even better if it didn't have the schoolroom look, those long neat rows. Would love to see a screen or two, a few tall plants maybe, just to break those straight lines (which probably have their advantages for serving). Forgot all that though as we studied the menu and got the extra information about the evening's specials.

That guinea-fowl was one of the specials and an excellent dish. It was served with lentils, black pudding, caramelised walnuts, potato fondant and pureed beetroot. Absolutely superb flavours and so well cooked. As I said, Guinea-fowl is pretty rare on local tables but I did enjoy it last year in Ballymaloe and in the Mustard Seed the year before that.

Cod

There were some nine main courses to choose from and mine was the Roasted fillet of cod, smoked white beans and braised chicory. Nothing wasted here, all three main elements combining well. I was especially pleased with the smoked beans though and, of course, that cod was so fresh and so easy to digest.

My starter was also something of a special: Goat’s Cheese mousse, with beetroot and walnuts. I know that you often get beetroot with goats cheese but this was pickled and lifted the dish. Very enjoyable though I must admit I was a little envious when I looked across the table and saw the Dublin Bay prawns served with mango crème fraiche and mango jelly. I got a wee taste, enough to confirm CL’s enthusiastic endorsement.

Desserts often follow a similar pattern but not here, so we took the sweet plunge. Poached clementines, star anise, caramel, gingerbread ice-cream for her, Fromage frais with fresh apricots, and Madeira biscuits for me. No regrets. Au contraire.

The three course price, including tea or coffee, comes to €47.50 each; wines are a stiffish €8.50 a glass. There are quite a number of possible menu variations and you can get to try the excellent food here for less. Some nights, generally early in the week, you will get tapas to share, two main courses and a glass of wine each for €39.50 for two people. Recommended. Stay up to date on all menus and special offers by checking their facebook page here.

Clementines (left) and, right from top, Goat's Cheese,
Prawns, Apricot dessert

Les Gourmandises suppliers include:

Meat – John O’Flynns & Sons, Marlboro Street

Fish – O’Connells, English Market

Shellfish de la Mer – Castletownbere, West Cork

Moynihan butcher, Grand Parade, English Market

Smoked Gubbeen smoked house . Gubbeen

Caherbeg free range pork , Rosscarbery, West Cork

Cheesemongers – Iago

Poultry, Moynihan , English Market

Bread – The Natural Bread Company

Les Gourmandises

17 Cook Street

Cork

(021) 425 1959