The Square Table Launched

The Square Table Launched
Big Night for Coolea Sisters

Top left: Graham Neville (l) with Lucy and Mark of Ballyhoura Mushrooms.
Top right: Cheers! Martina and Yours Truly.

“I wish the two sisters all the best. They have shown great courage,” said Michelin Star chef Ross Lewis as he helped officially launch The Square Table restaurant in Blarney last night. The two sisters are Patricia and Martina Cronin, both originally from Coolea and now well experienced in the restaurant world. Patricia is front of house while Martina (who has worked with Ross) is the head chef.

Martina has also worked with Graham Neville, Head Chef at Restaurant Forty One, who also spoke at the opening. Graham is rather modest and it took Ross to step in and remind us all that Neville is the reigning Food and Wine Magazine Chef of the Year.

The two girls also spoke and their first priority was to say a big thank you to the people of Blarney for their support over the past few months. Martina said they simply wanted to present good well sourced Irish food and had big thanks for three mentors in particular: Kieran Scully (Bayview Hotel), Ross Lewis (Chapter One) and, of course Graham Neville.

Their suppliers too came in for praise as did their local staff (“absolutely fantastic”), all their friends, family, especially Mum and Dad.

Ross Lewis, from Cork himself, said he knows the Cronins well! “The heroes of today are those who employ people. I started in 1993 and I know that success will come.” But he warned that staying power was needed to deal with the special demands of being an employer, including PAYE, PRSI, banks, teaching employees.

“The complexities are enormous. It is a very daunting task. But I know the Cronins are determined. Martina has the doggedness of a lion. It is amazing and great to see people that we’ve worked with get out on their own”.

The sisters were hardly on their own last evening. There was a terrific turnout. Suppliers present included River Wines, Ballyhoura Mushrooms and Pat O'Connell. The media and blogger world was well represented by Joe McNamee, Jack Power, Caroline Hennessy, among others. And no shortage either of fellow restaurateurs, including Nash 19 and Jacques.

The family were naturally up in force from Coolea and customers were also among the attendance. And, after the speech, Matina was back in the kitchen sending out a stream of gorgeous little bites including Durcan’s Spiced Beef, Ardsallagh Goat Cheese, Liscannor Crab, Michael Twomey’s Wagyu Rib-eye, Ballyhoura Mushrooms, and Old Millbank Smoked Salmon.

On the sweet side there were Macaroons, Poached Blackberries, Chocolate Brownies and a Lemon Cream and Blueberry meringue, all gorgeous. And no shortage of wine to wash it all down.

Thanks for the invite ladies and the best of luck in Blarney!

Hats off to Jacques!

Hats off to Jacques!

Hats off to Jacques.  Thirty three years on and the renowned Cork City restaurant, the oldest in town, is still setting the pace.

The Barry sisters, Eithne and Jacque, who started it all off, could be forgiven for sitting back and taking it easy. Not a bit of it. The award winning establishment, now with a small plates/tapas area recently added, continues to surprise.

“Every seven years!” said Eithne when we were in the other night. Every night really. I had started to look around for specials when I realised that the menu is really all specials. “We had a different menu last night. Depends on the market.” Now that takes some commitment.

Pigeon. Perfect!

And the commitment is extended to local producers, most of them named on the back of the menu. Some are well known, such as Breslin Butchers in the English Market, Gubbeen cured meats and Kanturk’s Jack McCarthy. Some are so well known, only the first names are used e.g. cheesemakers Giana and Jane. And the fish? “Well,” they say, “just look at the size of the Cork coast”.

And the sisters are delighted too to support the craft beer revolution which is quite strong locally with new breweries popping up all over the county. My choice in Jacques was the Kinsale Pale Ale, in its new and larger (50cl) bottle. One of the best ales I've come across (and I was in to Bradley’s the following day for more).

Now, for the food. Let’s take a look at the starters: Soup of the Day - Fresh Mussels with Chorizo Tomato and Garlic -  Crab and Apple salad - Salad of Blue Cheese and poached pear - Smoked Ummera Chicken.

The stunning KPA!

All tempting but I went for the Lambs Kidneys Dijon, with mustard, gherkins, apple and cream. The super sauce was one of the elements that made this a great success. And CL was blissfully happy with her flavour packed plate of Pigeon breast, white onion and thyme and Jack McCarthy’s Black Pudding.

We stayed on the game as we choose our mains. Mine was the Haunch of Venison on celeriac puree with some handsome robust kale, confit of shallot and red wine jus. A simply spectacular combination. so well executed.

And similar sentiments at the other side of the table as CL made her merry way through the Roast Pheasant, wrapped in pancetta, confit leg in potato cake, red cabbage and bread sauce.

A terrific choice too of main courses. Also on the list were: Scallops - Fresh Organic Sea Trout (with Goatsbridge Caviar) - Slow Braised beef short ribs - rib eye steaks - and a 7 vegetable Tagine.

Plum & Crumble

Seven temptations too in the dessert menu but, running out of space, we picked one to share and it was the gorgeous Plum and Walnut Crumble, well cooked and presented, underlining the immaculate attention to detail that prevails in this pleasant place. Here's to the next thirty three!

Tel : +353 (0)21 4277387        Email : jacquesrestaurant@eircom.net       Address : 23 Oliver Plunkett St, Cork

Jacques Restaurant is located at the heart of Cork City near the G.P.O. and is open Monday 10am - 4pm and Tuesday - Saturday 10am - 10pm. Lunch from 12pm - 4pm, side plates and tapas from 5pm to 10pm and the evening dinner menu is available between 6pm and 10pm.

Les sœurs Jacques

Les sœurs Jacques

Jacques, one of Cork’s oldest restaurants,  has always had two smiling sisters, Jacque and Eithne. Now it’s got two entrances, the latest onto Oliver Plunkett Street. Two styles also as here, in this comfortable informal space, something lighter, close to tapas, is served on small (not that small, mind you!) plates. But, don’t worry, the quality is as high as ever.

Jacque had the day off when we called for some early bites but Eithne was there as the new space filled up about six o’clock last Friday evening; it opens for the tapas at 5.30pm. Had a look at the short wine list – fits on a page - and started with a carafe (250ml) of the Picpoul de Pinet 2011, Domaine Delsol, Languedoc, quite a decent example of the type.

Made our first food choices from the blackboard, which is small and brought to your table. Picked two fish dishes for sharing, one was Fish Cakes with tartare sauce (8.00) and the other was Crab Toes Asian Style (7.00). A delightful duo.

Onto to the next round and a new wine, this time a glass each of the appropriately named Domaine St Jacques  d’Albas, a really good Minervois from the south of France.

More choices now as the board came again and this time the picks were Mexican Style Meat Balls with Tomato Fondue (7.00), really tasty with just a hint of piquancy. And we also ordered and thoroughly enjoyed the USA style sticky ribs with Jacque’s slaw (9.00).

Jacques Restaurant is located at the heart of Cork City near the G.P.O. They are open Monday 10am - 4pm and Tuesday - Saturday 10am - 10pm. Lunch is served from 12pm - 4pm, side plates and tapas from 5.30pm to 10pm and the evening dinner menu (in the “old” section) is available between 6pm and 10pm. Those sisters will keep you going all day long!

BRAVO JACQUES

BRAVO JACQUES 

Jacques  claim to be the city’s longest established restaurant and they do the simple things superbly.  Here they serve great food and they serve it well and the customers keep on coming.

It was full last Saturday night. But they are used to full houses, well capable of handling the demands, the confidence built through the last three decades or so.

We were welcomed with a smile and soon seated and all the staff we met were friendly and efficient and all interaction was carried through with good humour.

That care for the customer runs through the establishment. We ordered their Rack of Baby Easter Lamb with a soft herb crust and a sprouting broccoli (€28.90). After the expected “delay”,

JACQUES KICK OFF MY DINE IN CORK WEEK

JACQUES

Kicked off my Dine in Cork Week at Jacques last evening and thoroughly enjoyed my four course meal for €25.00. Great to see the local restaurants getting together on this one and giving the customer “a cut”. Eithne Barry though reminded me that Jacques have been doing this value menu for ages.

And it is good value, good food. Our starters were typical. One a tasty Chicken Satay (on a skewer) with couscous, the other organic green leaves with chorizo, warm potato and parmesan shavings in a spot-on warm salad.

The confit of Skeaghanore Duck was popular in the packed Phoenix Street room, packed at 7.00pm by the way, but we both went for the Fresh Hake with a Hollandaise sauce and sprouting broccoli. Served with some mashed potato, this was just delicious, a great balance of ingredients.

Just a general point on sauces. I would prefer to see the sauce served in its own container so that the customer can choose the exact amount he or she wants. By the way, the amount served at Jacques was well judged, unlike some establishments where your meat or fish can come “swimming” in the sauce.

There were a few changes from the advertised Dine in Cork Menu e.g. Hollandaise instead of Prawn Butter sauce. But, the kitchen in a busy place is a fluid situation and variations are to be expected here and in the market. One, though, wasn't. The menu on the night promised an Orange and Raspberry Roulade and, in its place, a Blackcurrant Roulade was served.

To tell the truth, it was gorgeous, but not everyone would like the tarty taste of the blackcurrant. The other dessert, an Apple and Olive Oil cake with a Maple icing, was much richer than expected and quite a treat.

We each had a glass (€6.50) of the house wine which was from the Languedoc, an excellent Moulin de Gassac Sauvignon. Finished with a decent cup of decent coffee to round off a fine meal. Service overall was excellent, friendly and quite efficient and the comfortable place was buzzing. Jacques has been a leading player on the local scene for decades and shows every signing of maintaining its high ranking.

Firm favourites

FEBRUARY SUMMARY

It has been a month of favourites, regular visits to Isaacs and even more so to Jacques . Both stood up well to the stress testing. Enjoyable fish dishes in each spot, Haddock one evening in Isaacs, Hake at Jacques.

Jacques is pretty expensive but value is good though I find paying €3.50 for a cup of coffee (a good cup I must admit) annoying and won't be doing it again.

There is value to be had in Jacques on the €25.00 menu which is available most weekdays and up to 7.00pm on weekends. The number of choices is limited but what you do get is top class food and the menu changes regularly.

The recession is biting and there are an increasing number of early birds available around town – make sure you check the local press before you go out.

During the Celtic Tiger we probably got used to speedy and efficient service in the restaurants – sometimes you were glad to get in, they were so busy. But the old personal warm friendly touch was lacking in most places. Nobody was discourteous. But, once the formalities were concluded, there was nothing extra, proprietors and staff didn’t even use the Irish fallback of the weather in conversation.


Now that things are slowing down, it might be no harm to cultivate that kind of rapport again. A warm greeting doesn't do any harm. I know myself that certain shops in town are a joy to visit. Ronnie Moore’s and O’Leary’s Camera World are good examples. I started going there years ago, felt welcome and still go there. Restaurants please copy.

My Favourites in Cork

YEAR END RECOMMENDATIONS

ENJOY

Favourite high end restaurant: Jacques

Favourite Bistro: Isaacs

Favourite medium priced restaurant: Market Lane

Favourite Italian: Casanova

Favourite Chinese: Ying’s Palace

Favourite Hotel restaurant: Pembroke Grill in the Imperial.

Favourite pizzeria: The Brick Oven in Bantry.

Favourite Dessert: While the desserts in Jacques are excellent, my vote goes to Jacobs on the Mall for its Date and Butterscotch Pudding.

LUNCH
Hard to go wrong here as you will get a decent lunch in most places in town, especially Market Lane. The outskirts are also well served: try Killumney Inn on the west, The Boot House on the north and the Elm Tree on the east. You will get a good roast of the day in any these.

For something different why not try Boqueria, the Tapas Bar in Bridge Street. On a recent visit I enjoyed a bowl of paella (loads of chicken and shellfish and served with a tarty side salad, for a €10.00). Just to add a note of caution, a glass of wine here (starting at €7.00 and mostly from Catalonia) is a full 25cl, a third of a bottle, and substantially more than your usual glass.

ENCORE

JACQUES SCORE HIGH AGAIN

Got a comment recently from Mel who included Jacques in a short list of his favourite restaurants. It is on mine as well.

Was in there last night and had a gorgeous meal. I chose Brill on a bed of greens with a hollandaise sauce. Absolutely worth the wait, a magnificent combination. There was no doubt that the Brill was the star of the dish, the sauce there to offer appropriate support.

A few days earlier, I had been in Amicus and made the mistake of ordering the Trio of Fish without properly studying the menu. It was smothered in the rich creamy sauce. The haddock wasn't too bad but the other two (salmon and sole) were anonymous. The advisor had Sole with a Butter sauce and her fish and veg were all swimming in the sauce.

In Jacques, they do it properly as they respect the main ingredient. Last night, the Advisor’s main course was an absolutely spot on Monkfish tempura. The fish was gorgeous in a very light batter. Again the fish was the star, the batter the support

Desserts are top class also in Jacques. Last night, I had the most divine Bread and Butter Pudding, with winter fruits (raisins and apricots mainly) sumptuous, scrumptious, while the Advisor had her favourite raspberries with vanilla pod ice-cream.

Wine was an award winning Sauvignon (Luc, I think) from the Beziers area of the Midi. It is the current house wine and costs €22.90. Enjoyed it. Enjoyed the evening.

JACQUES

FOR A FEW EURO MORE

Jacques is a Cork institution. It is every bit as good as its reputation, regularly enhanced by the awards that come to the Phoenix Street Restaurant. The only award I have is my custom and, having enjoyed Friday night’s visit, I’ll be back there again soon.

Prices, on the face of it, are a bit stiff: €11.50 for starters, the high 20s for mains. But compare. Two weeks back, I paid €88.00 for a poor quality meal in a Bantry pub. Last night, I paid three euro more in Jacques. The money was similar but the meals were not as Jacques was different class.

I had the Rack of Lamb on Hummus (with mustard), with vegetables and potato (which had been cooked with herbs and peppers). Carrots were included with the veg and they were cooked to perfection, which is not always the case. Indeed, everything was cooked to a tee and it was a gorgeous plateful.

Desserts cost €7.90. I really enjoyed my Plum Clafoutis while the Advisor was thrilled with her Cork grown raspberries (a generous quantity of berries, not your wishy washy puree) with vanilla pod ice-cream.


The wine list is extensive and has its expensive side. For instance, you can pay €300.00 for Hermitage la Chapelle 1985. But we settled for the house red, currently a French Merlot, which cost about €22/23 and was well worth it.

If you want to check out the meals and wines available why not go to http://www.jacquesrestaurant.ie/ and then make your virtual tour into a real one!