Gubbeen. “A gentle and fertile corner."

At Ballymaloe, l to r: Fingal and Giana Ferguson, yours truly and Rory O'Connell 

Gubbeen. “A gentle and fertile corner.”

“We are dairy farmers and farm over 200 acres in West Cork, with Mount Gabriel behind us and the Fastnet out in front of us. We have a mixed herd...but are very proud of our Kerry cows,” said Gubbeen’s Giana Ferguson as she addressed those of us privileged to be in the attendance at the Trimbach Wine and Cheese evening in Ballymaloe last week.

It was a very special evening in the Grain Store, so much more than the sum of its advertised parts: wine from Alsace, charcuterie and cheese from Gubbeen and the blue cheeses of Cashel and Crozier. But put these special families together, the Allens, the Fergusons, the Grubbs and the Trimbachs, as Ballymaloe's Colm McCan did, and you have the perfect mix for a few magical hours.

Instructive too. For these family “businesses”, more a labour of love, have a certain honesty and simplicity, not forgetting an abundance of hard work, not just in the day to day tasks, but also in acquiring and maintaining the necessary skills, that put together enable them to reach the highest of standards. They don’t boast about it either but they are a shining example to us all.

Take the Fergusons at Gubbeen where they have been farming for many generations now. Like many farmers, they have cows, they have pigs, they have poultry and they have a kitchen garden. But here, they have been put together in a rather special way by a family who work hard, respect the land, their animals and their customers.

And just like the engaging Jean Trimbach, they too know their terroir: the acidic soil, the salty winds from the Atlantic, the early grass (thanks to the Gulfstream).

They started making cheese in the 70s and these first generation cheesemakers were taking a step into the unknown.

But there was help and support from two of Cork’s leading food families: the Allens of Ballymaloe and the Ryans (now in Isaac’s), a support warmly acknowledged by Giana: "The Ryans and the Allens stood by us and kept us going."

Gubbeen chorizo

And they have travelled a long way, without ever leaving Gubbeen, without ever getting “big”. The add-ons are organic. Their pigs have the best views of any pig farm and son Fingal has taken a keen interest here. He admitted to being “fascinated by meat curing” and is “always looking to learn more in the future” Already, he has over fifty products, most from the versatile pig.

Daughter Clovisse has also added to the productivity of the farm.  She is a bio-dynamic gardener and, with a terraced acre and four tunnels, she supplies several local chefs and is the source of fresh salads, vegetables and fruit for her customers.  Her herbs are the key flavours in Fingal's cures for his smoked meats, and in the summer - if you get down early enough - you can buy her salads at the Schull or Skibbereen Farmers’ Markets.

Parents Tom and Giana have been the pioneers, Tom as the herdsman and Giana as the cheese maker; she also keeps poultry in the yards.  Special people making special food. A regional and national treasure.

• Don’t forget to visit the Gubbeen site here.

Trimbach Wines, Gubbeen and Cashel Blue

Iconic French winemaker with iconic Irish food producers

Darina Allen and Jean Trimbach

Jean Trimbach, Trimbach Wines, Alsace, France
with Giana & Fingal Ferguson, Gubbeen Farm, Cheeses & Cured Meats, Schull, Co. Cork
and Sarah & Sergio Furno, Cashel Blue & Crozier Blue Cheese, Fethard, Co. Tipperary

The Grain Store at Ballymaloe, Wednesday 4th July, 7.00pm

A special evening in Ballymaloe with Trimbach Wines, Alsace, France - family run since 1626, and listed in the Top 10 White Winemakers of the world, with their wines & stories presented by Jean Trimbach. Also alongside Jean Trimbach, will be Sarah & Sergio Furno of 'Cashel Blue & Crozier Blue Cheeses', and Giana & Fingal Ferguson, of 'Gubbeen Farm, Cheese and Cured Meats',  who will also tell us their story with a tasting of their produce, to taste alongside the wines of Trimbach.

Wednesday 4th July, 7pm, €15 (includes wine & nibbles)

FOLLÁIN RELISHES

FOLLÁIN RELISHES

Many of you will know that West Cork company Folláin make a range of gorgeous jams. Their blackcurrant and raspberry are particularly good and their blackberry is a gem while the marmalade is a regular on our table.

But did you know they also make some excellent relishes? Tomato, Exotic Fruit, Fire Roasted Pepper feature in the range and I got a chance to sample the Exotic Fruit recently with two other top class West Cork products.

It was something of a supper meal over the weekend and we put the relish together with that excellent smoked duck from Ummera and a salad. Absolutely gorgeous, really tasty and quite filling.

The relish stayed on the table for the next course, basically some crackers and the top-drawer cheese from Gubbeen. Once again, we enjoyed a well balanced combination.

If you want to check out some recommended recipes why not visit the Folláin site here

With that kind of food at hand, wine was called for and I selected a Côtes du Rhone from the dwindling haul we brought back from Provence this summer. You may read all about the Plan de Dieu in the next post.

AT THE MAHON POINT FARMERS MARKET

AT THE MAHON POINT FARMERS MARKET

Great to see newcomers Glenilen Farm (left) at the Mahon Point Farmer’s Market this morning, even if their fantastic cheesecake wasn't on display. Had to settle for their Panacotta at the very reasonable price of 4 euro for two pots!

There were a couple of farmers showing off their vegetables, just out of the ground. This time it was the turn of Ballintubber (below). Their cauliflower just cried out for a home.

Dan Aherne, another East Cork producer was next door. Their fillet steaks were gone – “they go first” – but there was considerable consolation as I helped myself to a couple of T-bones.

Martin Conroy of Woodside contributes to the new 12 mile menu at Midleton’s Sage Restaurant and tells me he is delighted with it. “It was packed last night.” Woodside have quite a range of products from their free range pigs and, among other things, we like his burgers.

Also called to Iain O’Flynn; this time we were concentrating on his soups. He had two new to me so we gave them a go: Courgette and Parmesan and also Pea and Mint.

Also visited Gubbeen, Arbutus Bread, Rose Cottage, Green Saffron and the Old Millbank Smokehouse and more. By then, the bags were full, the arms at full stretch, so off home to plan the next few meals. With this kind of produce, they should be good.

CORKER OF A MEAL AT FENNS QUAY

CORK ON A FORK

Local food, local lingo

Enjoyed a classy Cork on a Fork meal at the ever reliable Fenns Quay this week. This good value menu, even better now since the VAT reduction, includes mostly local food, such as spiced beef, and the menu card itself is “spiced “ up with some local lingo.

You are encouraged to have a starter by “Give it a lash boy” and a dessert by “Era, go on so”.

The food too is served with a smile and certainly put a smile on my face. Enjoyed my starter of Spiced beef and shredded beetroot. On the other side of the table, her regular Warm Chicken Salad lived up to expectations.

Mains for me was one of the evening’s specials: Baked Hake with herbed basmati rice, sautéed French beans, courgette with fennel and salsa rossa. A terrific combination, light and satisfying.

The other mains was Braised Irish Lamb Shank with Green Saffron Spiced Potatoes. The lamb was cooked to perfection and the spiced potatoes really added to the dish. As they say around here: “Savage Cabbage.”

We agreed on dessert: Lemon pudding served with Baldwin’s Ice-cream and a tiny jug of chocolate sauce. Presentation was inviting and the combination – that ice cream is gorgeous – went down a treat.

Wines were Pazos de Ulloa DO Ribeiro 2009 and Domaine d’Angayrac Costieres de Nimes 2008, each at €5.50 a glass.

Cork on a Fork: 2 courses €22.50; 3 courses €27.50.

Gubbeen Chorizo, peas and rice. Let's cook!

West Cork Chorizo and Sage with Rice


Gubbeen's Chorizo is widely available.


I regularly get one at the Mahon Point Farmer's Market where Gubbeen have a stand. Their Chorizo is based on southern Spain’s famous spicy salami: Pimenton, chili, garlic, oregano, pepper. So you'd expect it to go well with Spanish rice. It does and here is the recipe. 


Fresh peas are beautiful just now. I know the recipe (from an old Reader's Digest Book) says frozen but if you have fresh then so much the better. Picked a bowl in the garden the other day and used them with the recipe and they were just terrific.

BRINGING BAROSSA SHIRAZ AND GUBBEEN PORK TOGETHER

Nine Lives Barossa Valley Shiraz 2008, 14.5%, stockists (€16.99 rrp) 

Full ,spicy and dark red, this Barossa has a nose of inviting dark berry. There is a terrific mix of fruit and spice on the palate and the long finish of this lively full bodied wine is along the same pleasant lines. Not surprised that the producer, Rosedale Wines, won a silver medal for this at the 2010 New World Wine Awards.

Probably didn't win any medal though for the originality of the back label which has a string of cat puns. Still they draw a smile or two and I did have a laugh at the final line: drink in moderation – then have a catnap.

Bord Bia played a leading role during the queen’s visit and plays quite a role at all times in Irish food. Picked up a pork leaflet from them about a year back and adjusted one of the recipes for this wine.

The recipe is Pork Fillet with Prunes  and the only real change was to substitute red wine for the white. Must also mention that the pork was top class, a beautiful piece bought recently from Gubbeen   at the Mahon Point Farmers Market . 

Served with a puree of parsnip and potato, I’m glad to say (and this will earn me brownie points) that the dish was marvellous and was enhanced by the Shiraz which is imported by Wine Alliance and available at these stockists.

GUBBEEN: NOT LETTING THE GRASS GROW

GUBBEEN: NOT LETTING THE GRASS GROW

Those go-ahead folks at Gubbeen  don't let the grass grow under their feet. You’ll have spotted recently that they are about to launch their Buffalo Mozzarella on the market and you’ll hopefully have seen me raving over the past few months about their ever so tasty venison Burgers.


And now I have another new one for you: Artichoke and Roast Garlic Smokehouse Sausages, another winner if ever there was one. They come in packs of four, are gluten free, have no rusk and contain 82% meat.


On the outside they look like most sausages, though a little longer. But cook them slowly and thoroughly and you have something else entirely. The texture is bite friendly, mouth friendly. The overall taste is brilliant and boosted by a strong hint of spice. I have often used Gubbeen chorizo with a Spanish rice recipe and it looks as if I’ll have a choice in the future.


I’d prefer not to overdo the superlatives here. Just go down to Mahon Point Farmer’s Market next Thursday, or wherever else you get your Gubbeen, and buy a pack. You won't regret it.


The full list of ingredients is: artichoke, roasted garlic, Lombardi pepper salt, parsley, marjoram and raw cane sugar.
Gubbeen Smokehouse, Schull, County Cork. +353 (0)28 27824

MARKET GALLOP

Mahon today, before the rain came

MARKET GALLOP 

Made a flying visit to the Mahon Point Farmers Market  this morning. Thanks to the

NASH 19

NASH 19

Always a pleasure to visit Nash 19 and yesterday’s lunch time date with two colleagues was no exception as a warm welcome was followed by some top notch food and service, including a drop or two of mulled wine.

Quite a few of you will have seen Tipperary’s Crowe's Farm  featured in RTE’s Ear to the Ground earlier in the week. And their bacon was the main feature of my lunch. It was served with, among other things, an apricot chutney, and the combination was first class.

Will be watching out for

WILD VENISON BURGERS

Last week's post on Gubbeen's Wild Venison Burgers got some people's attention and there were a number of queries as to stockists.

We checked with Fingal Ferguson of Gubbeen: "We largely only sell the wild venison burgers from our own stall at farmers markets . We do supply a large selection of our products to shops delis and farmers markets around the country. My list is a bit out of date at the moment but the main ones are here http://www.gubbeen.com/cured_meats_avail.htm "

Gubbeen's Whey fed Pork was also on sale at Mahon last week and that too was top class. Check it out here

Gubbeen Farmhouse Products in Schull

GUBBEEN SMOKEHOUSE
Most of you will be familiar with the Gubbeen cheeses but their reputation for producing tempting products from the smokehouse is growing rapidly.

Just last week, at the Midleton Farmers Market, I bought a piece of their lightly smoked Chorizo. This product has really brightened up a Spanish Rice with Chorizo and Sage recipe we’ve been using for years, courtesy of the Reader’s Digest 30 Minute Cookbook.

We had been using the normal chorizo sausage and sometimes locally produced spicy sausages. But this Gubbeen product is the bees knees and enhances this hearty richly flavoured Spanish-style dish where all the ingredients (red onion, garlic, red pepper, long-grain rice, turmeric, canned tomatoes, chorizo, sage and frozen peas) are all cooked in the one pan.

The Gubbeen chorizo re-vitalised this one for us and sent it up the ranks of our favourites.

Check out my review of Gubbeen Farmhouse Products - I am cork - on Qype

GUBBEEN SMOKEHOUSE SAUSAGES

GUBBEEN SMOKEHOUSE

Many of you will be familiar with Gubbeen cheese products. But how about the sausages from their smokehouse?

Bought a couple of packs from their stall in the Mahon Point Farmer’s Market today and tried out the ones with Sun Dried Tomato, Basil and Garlic. Absolutely lovely. Great texture, great flavour, all preceded by a lovely smell while cooking.

Looking forward to the second pack - tomorrow!

Gubbeen Cheese in Cork

GUBBEEN CHEESE
Gubbeen farmhouse cheese is one of the best known in Ireland and marketed internationally by the small family company from West Cork. Picked some up recently at the Farmers Market in Mahon Point and it is really really good, up there with the best of them.
They also do a smoked version and, more recently, have produced other smoked items such as rashers, sausages and salami. Will be calling again!

Check out my review of Gubbeen Cheese - I am cork - on Qype - includes contact details and map