GREAT BALLS OF FLOUR

GREAT BALLS OF FLOUR

US BLOGGERS AT THE FARMGATE

A short notice from Fáilte Ireland to meet Foodspotting.com  aces Amy Cao (New York) and Chris Connolly (San Francisco) turned into a long and leisurely tour of the outstanding Farmgate menu, our guide none other than owner Kay Harte, recently named Good Food Ireland’s Ambassador of the Year for her tireless promotion of local food.

Amy  is Head of Community at Foodspotting, a worldwide visual guide to good food and where to find it. Photos are important here and that is where Chris comes in. Aside from being an expert with the lens he is also a designer.

Kay sat down with us and ordered samples of everything on the menu and told us all about each part of the dish as she shared it out. I don't think the Americans had ever seen any restaurant owner as informative and as passionate about food and where it came from.

The tour was delivered with a calm passion that amazed the visitors and was illustrated in the best possible way: with examples from virtually every single dish on the current menu at the English market institution. Didn’t have enough room on one table so we had to move to get space.

Some of the simple things took the interest of the visitors, including the starting plate of breads. And then there were the “balls of flour”. Kate illustrated that with a bowl of Golden Wonders, skins intact, and cut one in half to show just what she meant by the phrase. The potatoes come from her regular supplier in Ballymacoda in East Cork.

Oysters were on offer and they were ordered from the O’Connell’s fish stall downstairs, the regular practice here. The oysters originally come from the appropriately named Oysterhaven near Kinsale. And there was also her marvelous fish pie, cod on this occasion. This looked so delicious that even Chris, not a lover of fish, was tempted.

All the time emhasising the place of food in the Irish way of life and , at one point, making reference to the Irish language book, the Diary of Humphrey O’Sullivan (Cín Lae Amhlaoibh), which details the rich and varied diet of an ordinary Irish household in the first half of the 19th century, Kay emphasised the importance of local provenance. Not just Cork, by the way: if the best cheese in Ireland comes from Donegal, then she will get it from Donegal.

Farmgate classics on the table included Old Millbank Smoked Organic Salmon, Spiced Beef, Irish Lamb Stew, Corned Beef, Lamb’s Liver and Bacon and, of course, Tripe, Onions and Drisheen (with those local jacket potatoes).

Time flew by and I got a bit worried towards the end when I spotted my two hour parking had long since run out but luckily I wasn't clamped or anything like that. In any event the two bloggers were also anxious to head off to the Cliff House in Ardmore and very sorry that they wouldn't get to Ballymaloe.

What an enjoyable afternoon. Oh, forgot to mention the drinks. Both were craft beers. From Mitchelstown’s Eight Degrees Brewing: Chris took the Howling Gale Ale while I choose the Knockmealdown Porter.

To read more about the Foodspotters trip...

IASC, FEOIL, MILSEOG and more at THE FARMGATE

FARMGATE CAFE  

A budding Irish food producer asked a more experienced operator if he should make something new and spectacular. “No,” was the reply. “Do something simple and do it well!”

The wise head must have had Cork’s Farmgate Cafe  in mind. They buy the fresh ingredients downstairs in the English Market, cook it well and then present it on the tables upstairs. Just brilliant. And yes, I know, one needs a great deal of training and expertise to get the simple things so right.

Like many restaurants

FOOD ABOUT TOWN

AROUND TOWN THIS WEEK 

The International Airport Hotel  was the venue this week for a lunch, hosted by hotel manager Aaron Mansworth, in honour of recently elected FAI vice president Tony Fitzgerald. The Munster team were leaving as we were arriving and there were good luck hand-shakes all round for their game away to London Irish.

The hotel staff were obviously busy but that didn't stop them putting on an immaculate reception and lunch for Fitzgerald and friends from the world of football and the media. Really impressed with the soup (celeriac) and the main course (beef or salmon) as I have been with the grub here at various functions in the past.

Also made a coffee call during the week to the Farmgate Cafe. I was meeting up with Italian food journalist Vittorio Castellani. He was delighted with the choice of sweet things available and was more than pleased with the lemon tart slice (served with a large dollop of cream). I also went for that and the friendly staff served it up with a smile. I’ve rarely eaten cream at that hour of the morning and didn't over-indulge here but must say, in agreement with expert Vittorio, that the lemon tart was done to perfection.

Nash 19 was another venue that impressed the Italian as I knew it would! I was back there later in the week looking for something to eat on Friday night (staying in for the match!). Had a nice short chat with a busy Mairéad before deciding on the Fish Pie.

Sounds ordinary enough, doesn't it.  But give Chef Pamela fresh fish, potatoes, leek, cream, butter, flour, seasoning, fish sauce and herbs and you end up with a high quality meal for two for just €10.95. A week or two earlier, we had tried the Lamb Tagine and that too was a five star product.

LATIN FLAVOUR

Vittorio Castellani

CITY BEAT with ITALIAN NOTES 

Vittorio Castellani (aka Chef Kumalo) is a Turin based Italian food journalist who I had the pleasure of guiding around the food spots of the city centre in midweek.

Not simply a journalist. A member of the Association of Journalists of Rome since 2000, as well as writing for some of the main wine and food periodicals, travelling and lifestyle magazines and important websites, he has also worked with most of the prestigious names in the wine and food business. He conducted the World Food Agenda on the programme for RAI television “La prova del cuoco” hosted by Antonella Clerici from 2004 to 2006.

For 15 years he has been working as an event designer, art director, International Food Festival and Events Consultant from the first exhibition of “Salone del Gusto” in Turin and the “Forum Gastronomic” held in Gerona.

Thanks to his double skills as journalist and event organizer, Vittorio works with many private educational institutes and universities: with a Master in Gastronomic Journalism from Gambero Rosso, a Master in Mediterranean Journeys , Wine and Food Itinerary, Tourism , Communication and Culture at the Faculty of Foreign Languages and Literature at Turin University.

In his professional capacity, he regularly travels abroad reporting on the many Gastronomic events over the five continents, where he has developed an important network of qualified colleagues, event organizers, importers, distributors, world class chefs and experts in food and tourism. For a list of his books take a look at one of his sites here

He came to Ireland primarily to join in the fun at the Kinsale Food Fest this weekend. He got in touch before leaving Italy and, on arrival, we arranged to meet at the English Market. Where else? Upstairs at the Farmgate Cafe, a cup of coffee got the ball rolling and I filled him in on the food scene, including restaurants, in the city.

Time then for a tour of the market. Some time later, with many notes and photos taken and spiced beef explained, we ventured out into the street for a little orientation walk that included the Coal Quay, Paul Street (including Rory Gallagher memorial), the art gallery and Opera House, up past Larry Tomkins (all the different types of football explained here) and then a stroll down Patrick Street and back to Prince’s Street.

Final call was to Nash 19 and here he was very impressed indeed with the set-up here, the quality and variety, the shop, the restaurant (self-service and sit-down). Gourmandissimo may have been the word he used in reaction but I could be open to correction! After that it was time to say goodbye as he headed back to the Farmgate for another appointment.

Handshakes all round and an invite to Turin. Que sera, sera.

THE FARMGATE CAFE

THE FARMGATE CAFE


Back at the English Market today to sample the €15.00 plate and wine from the Farmgate Cafe as part of the Good Food week.

Spotted the Venison as one of the choices. Had tasted that at the official opening on Monday but quite a few had tasted it earlier today (I didn't make it until 2.00pm) and it was no longer available.

But the “disappointment” was short-lived. Ordered the alternative, the Ardsallagh Goats Cheese Salad and a decent glass of Sauvignon. The mild cheese, as many of you already know, is a splendid product (from Carrigtwohill) and came spread generously on three baguette slices.

The three white islands topped a most delicious salad. Baked tomatoes, toasted walnuts, beetroot pieces all mixed in with lively (as distinct from limp) leaves, with an edgy dressing that enhanced the whole plate.

Venison. What venison? (Maybe I’ll try again tomorrow!)