Showing posts with label Alentejo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Alentejo. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 16, 2023

Drinking through some Portugal wine regions. Douro, Dão, Alentejo and Setubal.

Drinking through some Portugal wine regions. Douro, Dão, Alentejo and Setubal.

Portugal mini-series

Part IV (Vinho Verde, Lisboa and Alentejano).

Part III (Alentejo) 

Part 11 (Douro, Dão, Alentejo and Setubal.)  

Part 1 (Minho) 



Foot Trodden (2021), a recent book on Portuguese wine, covers these eight regions: Minho, Douro, Dao, Bairrada, Colares, Ribatejo, Alentejo and Madeira (home of one of the most age-worthy wines). Other regions noted are Algarve, Setubal, Beiras Interior, Tránsmontano, Bucelas, VR Lisbon and Carcavelos. This is part of an occasional focus on Portugal over the next month or two and I’ll try to get my hands on more of the country's wines. Thanks to O'Brien's for their help with this selection. Any tips or help will be most welcome!



Esporão Reserva Alentejo (DO) 2020, 14% ABV, €29.95  O’Briens Wine


Sparsely populated Alentejo, not as well known perhaps as the Douro or Dao, is a well regarded wine region in the east of Portugal and is where this multi grape blend, “typical of the best Alentejo wines”, comes from.  Colour is an intense ruby. Aromas are rich, of black fruit jam with toasty notes. Made with estate grown grapes, it has an intense rich character. Rich and complex with more black fruit, with spice, on the palate, tannins on the lips. Long and persistent finish.


Varieties used in this Esporão are: Alicante Bouschet, Aragonês, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz / Syrah, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira. List may not be precise and may vary from year to year.


It has spent 12 months in American (60%) and French (40%) oak barrels. After bottling, at least another 4 months of aging in the bottle followed. Good match for roast and grilled red meats and stronger cheese. Very Highly Recommended.


Back to the current wine, the first wine made by Esporão in 1985. “A classic obtained exclusively from our organic grapes. The diversity of Herdade do Esporão, together with the different characteristics of the grape varieties, the soils, the maturity of the vines and the character of those who make this wine consistently over the years, results in a rich, intense but always harmonious wine.”


We are used to associating amphorae with wine in the likes of Georgia. These large clay vessels see wine rest on its pulp for long periods. Colour and flavour is enhanced and often the white wines produced are called orange wines. Alentejo is the home of amphorae in Portugal where they have a long history (since Roman times) and are called talha. As it happens Esporão make some wine by this method. See their short video here.


They say: Reflecting the characteristics of vineyards and carefully selected grape varieties, these wines are vinified in old clay amphorae (talhas as we call them in the Alentejo), using ancient local techniques brought to the Alentejo by the Romans. Using an artisanal process, and spurning the use of yeasts, we aim to produce natural wines that are straightforward, authentic and vibrant.


To read more about the history of the Talha in Alentejo (and the story of Portuguese wine in general) read the very informative Foot Trodden.





Setúbal with Península Das Vinhas Vinho Tinto (Vinho Regional Península De Setubal) 2021, 13.5% ABV,  €10.00 (down from €14.45) O’Briens Wine



This dry robust red from Setúbal, with its blue and white striped neck reminding me of a lighthouse, is a blend of a little of Alicante Bouschet and mostly of the local variety Castelão (that the World Wine Atlas says may be described as “warm-climate Pinot Noir”). 


Castelão’s reincarnation in the area in a lighter fresher style has led to it being widely planted in Setúbal where the sandy soils and plentiful sunshine suit it. According to the label, the Alicante Bouschet adds colour, body, black fruit fragrance and a hint of spice to Castelão’s fresher red fruit palate. Castleão is now a major red grape across Portugal's main areas of production, and used in a variety of wine colors, styles and blends.


The aromatics of our Tinto indicate ripe red fruit with a hint of smoke. And that rich fruit, now with a spicy spike, is part of full bodied tannic wine that has character enough to take on a host of dishes though Wine Searcher.com suggest hearty dishes such as Pork and Bean Soup or Mushroom risotto. “Grilled light meals such as grilled chicken thighs would also match well.” So bring it to the BBQ in the months ahead. Highly Recommended.


Made by Casa Ermelinda Freitas, a significant  family-owned established in the area in 1920 and run by successive generations of dynamic women, this is a supple, juicy red which may be enjoyed on its own or with a host of dishes. However, if you are lucky enough to have some Portuguese famous custard tarts at hand then the wine you need is the region’s famous Moscatel de Setúbal.


The Setúbal Peninsula is the Portuguese wine region immediately southeast of Lisbon, crossing the Tagus estuary. The terroir in the area ranges from the sandy coastal plains to the rugged, limestone-rich hills of the Serra Arribida.


I got my first taste of Setubal wines, and an indication of their quality and good value about ten years ago, when Maurice O’Mahony’s Wine Alliance imported quite a few to Ireland. The area has a long history of wine but only recently began making a name for itself abroad. More here 


Casa Ermelinda Freitas Vinhos was founded in 1920  and from the beginning made the quality of its vineyards and wines a top priority. The year of the company’s new beginning in wine making didn’t come 1997, when a red wine “Terras do Pó Tinto”, was the first to be produced and bottled on the premises of the Ermelinda Freitas winery.


Symington Altano Organic Douro (DOC) 2020, 13.5% ABV, €18.45 O’Briens Wine



The Douro is perhaps the best know of the Portuguese wine regions, mainly because if its historic connections with Port. And the Symington family are one of those old (originally) British families that were involved in the trade for no less than 130 years. But now, like quite a few other Port families, they are making more and more still wine.


The British love of Port goes back centuries, at least to the late 17th when it was used as a replacement for claret that the Brits couldn’t get their hands on due to war with France. And they fell in love with the fortified sweet wines.


Meanwhile, the locals were enjoying their own simple table wine, even the infants were drinking wine rather than water, according to the chapter on the Douro in Foot Trodden.


Back then, only the poorer grapes not wanted for Port were used for the local wine but it is a different story nowadays and the quality of Portuguese wines is rising all the time even if consumers don’t have the easy way of knowing the grapes as they do with mono-varietal wines from other countries, say Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand or Malbec from Argentina. But consumers are learning all the time and Portuguese wines are becoming widely appreciated.


The Douro Valley is a spectacular place and draws all kinds of tourists including of course wine lovers. As you know, much the same grapes are used for port as for still red wine. 


The grape varieties for our Altano are Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Nacional and Tinto Cão; it is one hundred percent organic. The advice is to serve it at 14 to 17 degrees centigrade. It is evidently ready for immediate consumption but “has the potential to continue developing favourably up to 6 years”.


Colour of this beautifully balanced organic red wine is a deep garnet. Scents of ripe red fruits are noted. On the palate it is fresh, smoothly intense, a sweet hint of smooth tannins and, with noticeably good acidity, is harmonious all the way through to a long finish. This elegant wine is Very Highly Recommended.



It has been and is a winner for the Symingtons whose expertise clearly shows in this gorgeous organic red.

.“For five generations we have combined our passion for producing premium ports and wines with a deep commitment to the region's land and people. Our family was amongst the pioneers of modern Douro wines. In the 1990s we began producing Douro DOC wines from the same vineyards and indigenous grape varieties that had always made great port. We released the first Altano red in 1999 and we haven't looked back. Today, the Altano range enjoys global distribution and the wines have received widespread recognition for their quality and distinctiveness.”


Dão


Fonte do Ouro Tinto Dão (DOC) 2020, 13.5% ABV, €17.25, O'Briens Wine 


Like many Portuguese wines, this is a blend. All three grapes used are popular in the region. The Alfrocheiro adds depth of colour, Touriga Nacional (with its expressive violet scent) is considered to be the country’s finest, while Jaen is the local name for the what the Spanish call Mencía. By the way, Touriga Nacional probably started “life” in the Dão, mostly a granite plateau with the eponymous river running through it.


Importers and distributors O’Brien’s: A delicious red, showcasing the quality of winemaking in the Dão region of Portugal. Aged for 6 months in French oak it is a blend of indigenous grapes: primarily Touriga Nacional. 


Dão is one of the oldest established wine regions of Portugal, located just south of the famous Douro Valley. The mountainous region is home to Touriga Nacional, the principle variety of port wine, and only became a DOC in 1990.


The region’s wine industry, for so long shackled by the dictator Salazar’s imposed cooperative system that rewarded quantity over quality, certainly needed the improvement in quality which has taken place in the last 30 years or so.

Ironically, Salazar himself had vines in the wild and rugged regiona and a string of coops were set up but the emphasis was always on quantity not quality. Even though Salazar departed in 1968 and the Carnation Revolution of six years later finally ended the influence of his policies and those of his like-minded successors, the Däo was in the doldrums until well into the 1990s when EU policy and its monetary help provided the kiss of life and the area began to put its reputation for producing what Jancis Robinson termed “some of the…. most uncharming wines in the world” behind it.


The top Dão wines are now some of the most highly rated in Europe, winning consistent praise on both sides of the Atlantic, says wine-searcher.com. “It is in the north of the country. It takes its name from the Dão river, along which the majority of the region's vineyards are located.” More praise from the World Atlas of Wine saying they are now “..far juicier, friendlier, more elegant wines”.


A government study in 2017 listed no fewer than 230 indigenous varieties in Portugal and, according to the marvellous Foot Trodden, there are many many more yet to be identified. No wonder there are so many blends in the country.


Our blend has a dark ruby colour. Fairly rich aromas of blackberry, dark cherry and plum. There’s a great mix of the fruit flavours on the palate, with a touch of spice, smooth with elegant tannins and a very satisfying and persistent finish. This supple and fresh wine, full of vitality, has spent six months in oak and should be served at 16 to 18 degrees and will go well with red meats. 


Full of Dão character and Very Highly Recommended as is the book Foot Trodden!.


Sociedade Agrícola Boas Quintas, born in 1991, was part of the revival. It all began when Nuno Cancela de Abreu, representative of the 4th generation of a family with farming and winemaking tradition of more than 130 years, decided to devote all of his experience and all of his knowledge in viticulture and oenology, to the service of the project that would allow him to create high quality wines, full of character and personality. See more here.


Boas Quintas also make an excellent Fonte do Ouro white, a blend of Arinto and Encruzado, more details here 


Monday, December 19, 2022

Just in time for the Christmas weekend. Very Highly Recommended Reds From Portugal's Alentejo and France's Pays d'Oc

Very Highly Recommended Reds From 

Portugal's Alentejo and France's Pays d'Oc

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NEW ZEALAND WINE FAIR DUBLIN Jan 30th. How about a ticket for the wine lover in your life? Details below.

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Esporão 2019 Alentejano (IG), 14% ABV, €17.95 Bradleys Cork

Alentejo is an area in the south east of Portugal and it is where this organic red wine comes from. Like most Portuguese wines, it is a blend and the grapes used are Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, Cabernet Sauvignon, Touriga Franca. 

The country has scores of native grape varieties in regular use, the two Tourigas above for instance. The Alicante Bouschet is  an important variety in Alentejo. It is one of those grapes where both the skin and the flesh are red, that is to say a teinturier grape. It first saw the light of the vineyard in France in the late 1800s where it was bred as a cross. It does very well in Alentejo where, as reported by Grapes and Wines, one of its best producers is our Esporão.

Anyhow, though Portugal is never boring,  enough of the technical stuff.    Deep ruby is the colour. Ripe fruits, mostly red, waft out in the aromas, a little spice too along with herbaceous note. It is quite fresh with a silky texture, that ripe fruit prominent with a touch of spice but superbly balanced right through the persistent finish. Very Highly Recommended.

The producers: The Wine is produced solely from grapes grown at Herdade do Esporão, applying organic farming methods. It expresses the typical features of the vintage year, diversity of the soil where the vines are planted, as well as the character and identity of the selected varieties.

Winemakers David Baverstock and Sandra Alves oversaw co-fermentation of the grapes begin in the wine presses, with foot treading at controlled temperatures (22 to 25ºC), finishing in concrete tanks. Following malolactic fermentation, aging took place in the same concrete tanks for 6 months. The unique micro-oxygenation conditions provided by this type of tank aim to preserve the wine’s character.

A character well worth preserving!


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Best Value Wines 2022 Under €18.00. With Reviews & Irish Stockists. 


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Brau Pinot Noir Pays Doc (IGP) 2019, 13.5%, 

RRP: €20-€21 Taste Castletownbere / Urru, Bandon / Toon's Bridge Macroom and Dublin / Mortons of Galway / Little Green Grocer Kilkenny / Scally's Supervalu Clonakilty / Mary Pawle Wines


Pinot Noir is perhaps my favourite red wine grape. And I am not alone. Wine Folly declares it “the world’s most popular light-bodied red wine”. 


I’ve enjoyed excellent examples from Burgundy of course  (where you’ll find the most prestigious Pinot Noir vineyards in the world) and also from the Alsace, from Germany, the US, New Zealand, Chile, and Romania. And this particular Pays Doc from this producer (the 2015 and the 2018 vintages).


The Languedoc may not be the usual place for Pinot Noir but this is a winner all the way. This 2019 has a lovely light ruby colour. The aromas are quite complex with cherry and red berry coming through plus notes of the local garrigue. Cherry takes a silky hold on the palate, and you have a light presence of spice in a full and generous mouthfeel. Soft tannins also there as this very approachable wine, more supple than some Pinot Noirs, moves to a pleasant and lingering finish. Very Highly Recommended.


It is part of a series that Brau calls “Unique Flavours” that also includes Fer Servadou, an old grape variety of the South-West. Their suggested pairings for the Pinot are cheese, poultry, and braised meat while Wine Folly go for duck, chicken, pork and mushrooms.

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Top Wines 2022. With Reviews & Irish Stockists. 


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Press release:


New Zealand Consumer Tasting Monday 30th January, 2023




One of the most popular consumer wine events of the year is back in January 2023.  The annual New Zealand Wine consumer tasting which takes place on Monday 30th January, 2023.  This is a great opportunity for anyone interested in wine to get to know more about the fantastic wines currently available on the Irish market from New Zealand.

 

This popular tasting will feature an incredible range of wine style from New Zealand.  Taste some of their fantastic reds, their sparkling wines, the aromatic white grape varieties.  The two hour tasting will allow you to explore all the wine styles New Zealand has to offer.

 

Participating wineries for the 2023 New Zealand Winegrowers consumer tasting include

 

Akarua, Babich Wines, Caythorpe Family Estate, Decibel Wines, Dublin St, Graham Norton's Own Wines, Greenhough Vineyard, Hunter's Wines, Invivo X, Sarah Jessica Parker, Jules Taylor Wines, LeftField, Oyster Bay, Pyramid Valley, Rimapere, Smith & Sheth, Vidal, Villa Maria, Waipara Springs, Whitehaven Wine Company, Wither Hills

 

Why not purchase a ticket as a stocking filler for the wine lover in your life? 

 

NEW ZEALAND WINE FAIR DUBLIN CONSUMER TASTING

6:30 pm - 8:30 pm   Monday 30th January, 2023

 

Venue:  Grafton Suite, Westbury Hotel, Balfe St, Dublin 2

 

Tickets available on line priced at €20.00 from:

 

https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/new-zealand-wine-fair-dublin-2023-tickets-488155244477


 

Wednesday, October 20, 2021

A Couple of Cracking Reds from Tasmania and Alentejo.

A Couple of Cracking Reds

from Tasmania and Alentejo


Eddystone Point Pinot Noir (Tasmania) 2018, 13%, €24.95, O’Briens Wine


This Pinot Noir, all the way from Tasmania, has a vibrant mid-ruby colour. Strawberry is the major actor in the moderately intense aromas. This juicy red is lively in the mouth, delicately flavoured, with strawberry and cherry, some spice too, and a natural acidity help keep the balance right to the finalé, where the smooth tannins softly tingle the lips and fruit and spice gently and pleasantly linger. 


Purity of fruit was foremost in winemaker Stewart Byrne’s mind during this vintage and he and his team hit the bull’s eye with this one. Very Highly Recommended.

 

Eddystone Point is situated in windswept North East Tasmania and features some of the most uniquely layered terrains on the planet. With its cool climate and prevailing winds it is ideal for growing Pinot Noir.


Eddystone say: One of the hardest of all grape varietals to make, this wine displays all the hallmarks of great Pinot Noir. …The unusually warm Summer and Spring conditions were able to ripen larger than average crops successfully, and vintage was done and dusted in the very short timeframe of just 5 weeks. Harvesting 100% hand picked…. Maturation was 9 months in 25% new French oak and a mixture of older oak. .. Drink now or cellar for up to 3-5 years. First released in 2013, Eddystone Point realises our vision to create wines that are drinkable, affordable and represent the undisputed quality of Tasmanian fresh produce.


Tasmania is a single wine region (Geographical Indication), with seven distinct and diverse wine growing areas. The climate is cool by latitude, not altitude, and the weather is highly variable. Many grape varieties are now found in Tasmania, with producers constantly innovating and experimenting. But Pinot Noir is the star, representing almost half of the island’s plantings for both still and sparkling wine. And those sparkling wines are pretty damn good too!




Marquês de Borba Colheita Alentejo (DOC) 2019, 14%, €17.95 O’Briens Wine



Like many Portuguese wines, this red is a blend; the grape varieties used are Alicante Bouschet, Arangonez, Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional, Petit Verdot and Merlot. The fruit is grown on the limestone and schist soils of Alentejo (a large area with the Algarve to the south, Spain to the east and the Atlantic coast, with Lisbon, to the west).

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And, like many Portuguese reds, the aromas are intense, a concentration of fruit (red and darker berries) and a touch of vanilla. The palate too is fruit-driven but not at all over the top as you’ll find a happy equilibrium between fruit, tannin and acidity. Very drinkable and Highly Recommended.


Marquês de Borba Colheita is made by the family owned João Portugal Ramos. He started his personal wine making project by planting his first five hectares of vineyards in Estremoz in 1988. Now joined by his son and daughter in the business, they have grown to be one of the most important wineries in Portugal.


They say: One of the most emblematic brands of João Portugal Ramos, Marquês de Borba combines the tradition of the Alentejo region with an excellent quality, present since the first vintage in 1997. The brand’s name comes from the happy coincidence of João Portugal Ramos’ vineyards and winery being located in Borba sub-region, and also of one of his uncles having the noble title Marquês de Borba, a title created in 1811. Present all over the world, the Marquês de Borba brand is today a symbol of the Alentejo region.

Monday, October 17, 2016

Portuguese Pair Show Quality and Value

Portuguese Pair Show Quality and Value

The inspiration for trying this Portuguese pair, well at least the red, came from Jancis Robinson’s The 24 Hour Wine Expert. She has a page of Obvious and Alternative wines. In one pairing the obvious is Bordeaux red, the alternative is red from Portugal’s Douro. 

Spotted this Esporão in Karwig’s and, though it’s not from the Douro exactly, thought that it would fit the bill. Then I saw the white and thought if they can make a good red, they should be able to make a good white. The white is good and the red is quite superb and would leave many from Bordeaux in its wake.

Esporão Reserva Red Alentejo DOC (Portugal) 2013, 14.5%, €26.65 Karwig Wines
First things first. This is a gem and Very Highly Recommended. It is a blend of Alicante Bouschet, Aragones, Cabernet Sauvignon and Trincadeira.

It has a deep red colour. And there are concentrated aromas of ripe red fruits and that follows through to the palate. Here you find a dense concentration of flavours, spice too, firm tannins, along with a long satisfying finish.

Esporão Reserva White Alentejo DOC (Portugal) 2014, 14%, €20.90 Karwig Wines

This deft combination of fruit and acidity is based on a blend that includes Antao Vaz, Arinto, Rouheiro, and Semillon. The fruit is picked early in the morning and it has seen “partial ageing” for 6 months in French and US oak. They call it “a wine for special occasions” and it is indeed very good and Highly Recommended.


You notice the bright light gold colour with tints of green. Aromas are of soft white fruits, with peach and grapefruit flavours on the almost creamy palate. The oak is well integrated. Fruity and mineral-y and, though not exactly bone-dry, this is a well balanced wine with a long finish.